puckotred

Hello all,
Thank you for your comments and likes.
I wish to you all a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
 
Santa was generous with me this year, I've got two very lovely books (first two pictures) - and now I am taking my time reading them slowly. 
 
Here is another update for my build - last one this year. The easy part is completed, the decorative mouldings and sculptures around those windows still to be done. I will give it a try... next year.
 
Regards,
Alexandru
 
 

Got my saw in the post today. One week from japan to Sweden. And at half the postage of what it would cost to ship inside Sweden!
Also got my Sharaku cloth
Now I need a mitre box that fits the saw....

Another quick update.  That’s the lower whale position set and planked.  I took my time over this job because I felt it was critical to make sure the lay was correct to the lines of the ship.  It did get a little tricky the closer I got to the lower whale position as the planks were having to bend way out of their comfort zone and needed quite a bit of gentle persuasion with my steam iron to conform.

 

 

Don’t want to tempt providence but I think that’s the hardest bit of the planking (around the bow) over with.  I didn’t actually intend to put butt joints along the planks but the plank above the lower gunports wasn’t quite long enough at 600mm provided, so I decided to stagger the planks where they looked reasonable.

 



 



 



 

I have sealed the planking with sanding sealer, mainly because it helps stop those nasty annoying little areas of planking which haven’t quite glued springing when sanding.

 

So where next? Do I give myself a little treat and build a bit of deck furniture or something, or is it straight on with planking the lower hull?  Let’s go for it!!!!!

 

Hi.
Well its the end of this build and its been a nice steady build.
Started in September 2013. with a couple of breaks IE summer holidays. Daughters wedding.
 
A few photos are in order..
 

 
The Enclosure is made from Fire resting poly-carbonate, as its Health and Safety thing.
Top .bottom and back are 12mm plywood.
 

 
There is also a Mirror at the back of the model..Gives it more depth. Doctor Who cheat.
 

 
The Red button is a press to make switch. and holds the power on for 30 seconds.
Lights that are in the Hold and Orlop deck flicker like oil lamps.
 

 
The two Dolphins are carved from Boxwood (not by me) . Local shop sells then cheap.
 

 

 

 
I did not put gravel into the hold in order to keep the weight down.
 

 

 
The drawings are bits that I had lying around.. They cover the plywood nicely.
 

 

 
The tape measure is showing the physical size of the enclosure
 

 
I really appreciate the help and encouragement you people have given me throughout this build.
I would also like to thank my friend Roy for supplying my with the timber for the build.
 
And of course the person who keeps everything running in the house while I have my head buried in the model. Marian.
 
And all the likes... There are soooooo many.
Any questions.. Please ask.
 
Regards Antony.
 
 
 

Another small update the last before a vacation break.
Alexandru
 

A quick update on progress so far.  Started working on the bow which is a matter of setting out ready for planking the deck. Again the manual indicates planking off the model but the deck takes quite a lot of flexing to position, so I decided to plank with the deck fitted.  When it came to sanding I did keep an eye on Bulkheads 3 and 4, they are very thin, a disaster waiting to happen.

 



 

I don’t know if you’ve noticed the mini clothes pegs in the photo, I picked them up in an art shop, I think they’re designed for Xmas cards etc. but they’re brilliant for small work and rigging, I think they’re £4 GBP for about 50.

 

While at this stage I checked the fit of the masts and bowsprit, I don’t want any nasty surprises later.

 



 

I’ve fitted the deck beams towards the stern, I did notice the two beams nearest the stern were quite a sloppy fit so I had to pack them so they were the right height.

 

The last job was to make up the capstan, the staggered holes were quite tricky, it too me twice as long to set up my Unimat with the dividing head than it did to drill them, i did try to do it by eye but after scrapping a couple thought better of it.

 



 

So its onwards and upwards figuratively speaking. I’m going to be working on the stern and whip staff assembly. I think this is where things get interesting as it entails setting up the stern galley and side patterns, lots of dry fitting me thinks.

 

Just a quick note from admin...
 
What Mr Frisoli did was grounds for being banned from this site.  You cant pretend to be someone else and play games like that on this forum.   So a quick warning to Tom....dont  get cute.   He knew what he was doing.   I personally think the laser cutter is well overpriced for what it is.  You can alter  it and work for days adding new parts like Mark did on any Chinese machine bought on Ebay for $750.   When you spend $2000 for one that performs the same way and needs just as much attention there is definitely an issue.  But I will give you the benefit of the doubt so you can try and help these good folks who read on your site that they just needed to "plug it in and start cutting".  
 
That is clearly not the case....and it still says this on your site.  I find that very misleading since you just admitted as much and so did old Mama bear 
 
"But, as with using any delicate instrument, and as Mr. Taylor pointed out, a bit of technical savvy goes a long way toward achieving early success.
 
Now . . . I'll kid you not. To develop use of the machine to its full potential, you're going to have to spend some time with it, and learn the various techniques and tips and tricks"
 
Tom, if you are serious about being fair and straight with your customers,  I would expect you state the same on your website and in your catalog.  But I am not holding my breath.  So please be respectful to our members unlike Mr Frisoli.  I own a much better machine which actually did work straight out of the box with no replacement parts and in one hour I was cutting parts.....and I will recommend to all folks that they should consider another machine.  It might cost you more but they are proven machines....also wait for more reviews of this MicroMark Laser knife machine and tales of success or hardship before you dive in.  The research is key here.
 
Chuck
MSW Papa bear

I think I owe a response... however, taking the criticism at face value in spite of the obvious troll, I'll shoot for the high road.
 
a) I did not view the videos at the time as Flash had been removed from our PC's.  There are/were vulnerabilities from Flash and we had several attempts to exploit them.   Ok. my bad on that.  Googling part numbers did clear it up. 
 
2) I followed the printed manual to the letter.  alignment isn't mentioned until well after where I aligned it.  The manual instructions are devoid of any meaningful explanation on how to accomplish this.  I had to use Google and research it.
 
As for the manual and your site, it's as simple as 1-2-3...  Set it up, run the cut and engrave parts  which I did, and go.  Note again in the process where I started the alignment it was right after the go and a "let's see what this thing will do". 
 
3)  In searching alignment procedures, I did find out that the Chinese do often install the lenses upside down.  The proper way is curved side up, flat to the bottom.  Mine was curved side down, flat to the top.  Numerous sites (including various optic sites discuss this).
 
4) There is always a learning curve.   If you had read the entire topic you would have seen the journey.
 
5) Why shouldn't I test it with boxwood?  It's very common around this particular hobby as is pear, apple, cherry, and ebony.  For the record, no laser will cut ebony cleanly.. the oil in the wood burns too easily.
 
6) I'm still figuring out how to use it and still learning.  Which applies to any tool.  I've already started the process if "upgrading" and getting it to work.
 
You'll also note, that I do not recommend it  "unless you are tech savvy"... and that the tech is "isn't mature".  I notice that the specs have changed for the next machines coming in... so it's obviously not mature.
 
Also, Chinese quality control sucks, quite frankly.  From the lens being upside down, to several screws stripped (and replaced) to the lens tube being drilled off center and at an angle which I corrected thanks to advice on the internet.  According to sources across the web, the tube isn't a "true" 40W but a "peak 40W" which is a 35W tube.  The true, continous 40W tube is about 100mm longer.
 
Much of the last 30 days has been spent on testing and tweaking.  I've been advised to bag it and send it back and buy a better machine.  But I'm a tad stubborn.  So follow along if you like.. I'll take actual advice instead of a beating.  It's a journey, not a destination.

I have not had the time to update the log lately, but here's some progress:
 
 
bottom finished.

 
 

 
Nice warped roof there.

 
Warping fixed with the vertical bits of Pianowire.

 
 

 
The bridge.

 
 

 
 

 
Bridge with LED's

 
 

 
Funnel. The metal sheet supplied was a very thin piece. Impossible (for me) not to buckle it.
Did my own extra pipes as none was supplied in the kit.

 

 
This build will be suspended until late autumn as I have other ships to build now that the weather is warmer. Sanding must be done outside. I'll try to up a log of the Pinco Genovese later.

The saga of lost proportions continues.
 
Stairs
 

 
 
Started the railing. The "Guardrail vertical parts" as the parts list state them, are made of really soft white metal. the wire is extremely hard. probarbly the best quality of the whole mess. Impossible to cut with pliers smaller than medium. 
 

 
 

 
Guardrail primed. Stairs totally out of proportions.
 

 
Roof attached, LED's working..
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
The LED's shine through the roof plywood so I'll use sandpaper (grit 800) to simulate tarred paper that the original has.
 

 
Hull bottom first stroke of paint.
 

I'll repeat what I wrote in a different thread.
My experience is : I bought a partly built kit by Corel. Previous owner/builder left a note in the box saying that some strips of "flexible" planks where missing at purchase. I sent a e-mail to Corel, explaining this was a "second hand" kit and what the previous owner said. The next day They awnsered my e-mail and the parts arrived in my mailbox after a week or so. Excellent service

This is looking great Nils. You are a true craftsman!

Ongoing framework.......
 
the frames shown in the pics before were all still plates without outcuts. Now nearly every frame will get some outcuts ( to allow access when fixing the stringers and later on the planking. Also all the notch-outcuts for the stringers are brought in.......
Also the reinforcement squarebar has become drilled borings  in three places for the stand`s spindles and the locking nuts
 
 

 
every frame is secured to the base with two srews (for easy removal, and bringing into position again)
 
 

 
the keel is now flush and interlocked with the frames
 
 

 
up to now no whether pins nor glue have been used on the framework (all only stuck together) . After the final check on all positions I will upply PA glue, to provide the strong hold
 
 
 
Nils
 

Frames,
dry- fit of parts and marking for the stringer positions. Horizontaly the stringers will follow the individual deck-levels, although the lower decks will not be fitted later.
 
To my relief the frame outer contours are straking so well, that slight fairing touch can be done when the stringers are already permanently fit on.
 
The keel and bowpost comprise four 5mm thick plankparts made from beech. The frames will have an 5 mm wide outcut on the bottom centerline, allowing the keel to be placed appr. 8mm further down, when the appropriate slotted keel is nearly flush with the frames
 
 

 
the keel will come down appr. further 8mm, when the frames also get slotted
 
 

 
the keel, when interlocked with the frames, will then touch the reinforcement squarebar
 
 

 
here the markings for the stringer notches can be seen
 
 

 
some of the ply-frames are only 1,5 mm thick, I had fear that they might be too flimsy, but the will be stiffened out by the stringers afterwards.
 
 
 
 
Nils

Build log part 4
 
 
Today is keellaying day, ......
the base plate has been reinforced underneath, and is now absolutely flat, and first preliminary frame set up of 26 single removeable frames, to see how the contours are straking, and what amount oif fairing to the outer frame contours shall be necessary. Then the positions notches for the stringers will be checked resp. corrected, before they are cut out. Also the keel will be fitted in as well as the stern- and bow post areas. The strong "spine" can be clearly seen here. I`ll cut away many of the dead wood inside the frames, leaving only the convex deck beams and reinforcements where necessary, where visable decks will be fitted later on. The 6 mm dowels to resemble the propshafts will be replaced later with brass tubes. The different color of the frames is due to the use of leftover ply, I gathered over the years.
 
 

 
bottom side of reinforced baseplate
 
 
 
 

 
upper side, with pencil centerline and lines for frame-distances
 
 

 
the pile of frames
 
 

 
the admiral was so kind to hold the "shipyard"......
 
 

 
..... aft view
 
 

 
different ply, in color and thicknesses
 
 
Nils
 
 
 

Build log part 3
 
 
 
Whilst the design work goes on, I`m looking for what material resources I still have laying around that can be used without buying new....
There are still 3 of those brass candle holders that will give nice pedestals for the model`s stand, they would be conform with the stands for my "Gorch Fock" and "Pamir", and perhaps the one or other odd wooden strips from the resources bin can be used within the hull making......The base plate for setting up the frames has already been prepared and smoothend to take the third ship built on it (my shipyard slipway)
Although fingers are itching to get the new hull under steam, there is the strong desire to complete my "HMS Pegasus" within due time, she is looking at me sadly all the time
 
 

 
need to spread out (just for a moment, otherwise I`ll be in for trouble) in the admiral`s washing an ironing kitchen
 
 

 
taken partionaly from historic documents from the web...
 
 

 
will probably do the rudder heel and the window out cut from brass. The section also shows the stagered lengths of the propshaft bearing supports
 

 
here the three left over brass candle holders, ( the threads on top will be cut off, the center drilled through)
 
 

 
 

 
fit M4 spindle and a "knock in" wood nut for anchoring the spindle in the ships reinforcement backbone, (20mm beech sqarebar)
 
 

 
here is my humble hoizontal "latheing" and vertical drilling station
 
 

 
I have two power machines, a grinding device for sharpening tools, and a multi belt/disc grinder
 
 

 
my wood bin, with the "leftovers"
 
 

 
this little room in our home basement I have occupied for the "rough" work, fortunately I have a second larger room for the more "clean" modeling
 
 

 
This is the base board I shall use for the new frame set up. The board where it is laying on, can be swiveled back 90° to be out of the way. The hight of this swivel-board is lower that the surrounding ones and has just the right hight for working putting the sewing machine on (when sail sewing)
 
 
 
Nils

Build log part 2
 
 
I know it sounds strange to start making the propellers where the hull is not even on the slipway, but I was wondering if I could make them from brass, as they are a typical detail, in the way they were designed 118 years ago......., and as I`ve never seen such model props on the model market, it would be a pitty if I had to fit regular model brass props
 
 

 
I fell in love with these elegant stern lines, designed for speed
 
 

 
here some of the detail parts, in total there are 38 to be made single parts per prop, port- and stb. props rotate counterclockwise with appr. blade twists
 
 

 
raw hub with mounted, drilled and slotted calottes to take up the blades. The slot orientation is set with card template angle jig. The hub raw material is 8 mm squarebar, with centerline boring and M3 thread
 
 

 
blades soldered on and brushed over, the soldering per gas tourch was quite tricky
 
 

 
started to fit the resembled blade fastening bolts with distance sleeves and hexagonal dome nuts. Here six bolts (in actual would be 8 or 10, but that was to tricky for me to drill at that scale...
 
 

 
The actual props had a diam. of 6800 mm, resulting in 47,2 mm model scale 1:144
 
 

 
without bolts....
 
 

 
with bolts
 
 

 
the first prop took me 2 days to make, the second 1,5 day (learncurve)
 
 

 
here original design drawing with 3-blade hub
 
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Burnside. There's still a lot of frustration concerning scale and accuracy. I've decided to try and not think about it and just go on building. 
 
 
 Lightning for second deck:
 

 
I suck at soldering but the wire is secured and glued to the wood. It isn't going anywhere...
 

 

 
Done at last
 

 
Awaiting third deck. 

 
 

The saga of lost proportions continues.
 
Stairs
 

 
 
Started the railing. The "Guardrail vertical parts" as the parts list state them, are made of really soft white metal. the wire is extremely hard. probarbly the best quality of the whole mess. Impossible to cut with pliers smaller than medium. 
 

 
 

 
Guardrail primed. Stairs totally out of proportions.
 

 
Roof attached, LED's working..
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
The LED's shine through the roof plywood so I'll use sandpaper (grit 800) to simulate tarred paper that the original has.
 

 
Hull bottom first stroke of paint.
 

I have not had the time to update the log lately, but here's some progress:
 
 
bottom finished.

 
 

 
Nice warped roof there.

 
Warping fixed with the vertical bits of Pianowire.

 
 

 
The bridge.

 
 

 
 

 
Bridge with LED's

 
 

 
Funnel. The metal sheet supplied was a very thin piece. Impossible (for me) not to buckle it.
Did my own extra pipes as none was supplied in the kit.

 

 
This build will be suspended until late autumn as I have other ships to build now that the weather is warmer. Sanding must be done outside. I'll try to up a log of the Pinco Genovese later.

Nice Progress to be seen Mr. Pucko,
 
the funnel also Looks great...
 
Nils

The saga of lost proportions continues.
 
Stairs
 

 
 
Started the railing. The "Guardrail vertical parts" as the parts list state them, are made of really soft white metal. the wire is extremely hard. probarbly the best quality of the whole mess. Impossible to cut with pliers smaller than medium. 
 

 
 

 
Guardrail primed. Stairs totally out of proportions.
 

 
Roof attached, LED's working..
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
The LED's shine through the roof plywood so I'll use sandpaper (grit 800) to simulate tarred paper that the original has.
 

 
Hull bottom first stroke of paint.
 

I have not had the time to update the log lately, but here's some progress:
 
 
bottom finished.

 
 

 
Nice warped roof there.

 
Warping fixed with the vertical bits of Pianowire.

 
 

 
The bridge.

 
 

 
 

 
Bridge with LED's

 
 

 
Funnel. The metal sheet supplied was a very thin piece. Impossible (for me) not to buckle it.
Did my own extra pipes as none was supplied in the kit.

 

 
This build will be suspended until late autumn as I have other ships to build now that the weather is warmer. Sanding must be done outside. I'll try to up a log of the Pinco Genovese later.

I have not had the time to update the log lately, but here's some progress:
 
 
bottom finished.

 
 

 
Nice warped roof there.

 
Warping fixed with the vertical bits of Pianowire.

 
 

 
The bridge.

 
 

 
 

 
Bridge with LED's

 
 

 
Funnel. The metal sheet supplied was a very thin piece. Impossible (for me) not to buckle it.
Did my own extra pipes as none was supplied in the kit.

 

 
This build will be suspended until late autumn as I have other ships to build now that the weather is warmer. Sanding must be done outside. I'll try to up a log of the Pinco Genovese later.

The saga of lost proportions continues.
 
Stairs
 

 
 
Started the railing. The "Guardrail vertical parts" as the parts list state them, are made of really soft white metal. the wire is extremely hard. probarbly the best quality of the whole mess. Impossible to cut with pliers smaller than medium. 
 

 
 

 
Guardrail primed. Stairs totally out of proportions.
 

 
Roof attached, LED's working..
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
The LED's shine through the roof plywood so I'll use sandpaper (grit 800) to simulate tarred paper that the original has.
 

 
Hull bottom first stroke of paint.