rlb

Unfortunately, I mismeasured the location of the gaps, and didn't realize it until I had filed them into one set of timbers.  On to the third try.  I felt like I wasted precious wood, with the way they are curved, and as they are some of the largest timbers on the ship.  The most disheartening was re-making the Bollard timber, as that has to have a concave taper to match the stem.  It was not fun to make that timber 3 times.  I hope I've got it now, though I won't be 100% sure until I have more of the cant frames mocked up, and I finalize the rabbet.  The rabbet seems to need extra shaping to transition to the foot of the Bollard timber and the bearding line.   We will see. 
 
The rejected timbers are in front, and the temporarily glued together Bollard and Hawse timbers (with their gaps) sitting in place between the first cant frame and the stem--


 
 
The masking tape is just holding the group of timbers against the stem.   The timbers still need a lot of fairing, and some adjustments to the length of some of the upper gaps.  The isopropyl alcohol in the background was heavily used over the last couple weeks, as the timbers were glued together for rough shaping, unglued to make the gaps, and glued back together, unglued to make fixes, reglued again, etc.
 
Ron 

I realized as I was rough shaping the glued together Bollard and Hawse timbers, that I would need the first one or two cant frames to be installed temporarily in place to check the correct angles, amount of wood to remove, etc.   Going a bit further than the first frames, Zf (forward), and Za (aft), I cut out ALL the forward cant frame pieces--


 
In between other tasks, I'll assemble these.  But to get on with the Bollard and Hawse timbers, I temporarily glued up the first frame Zf.  As I fit the glued together and roughly shaped group of Bollard and Hawse timbers between the stem and this first frame I realized I had removed too much material from the starboard group.   It wasn't going to mate to the first frame satisfactorily.  The port group was more salvageable.  The two groups of timbers were separated, and I would try again, one at a time with the timbers, and the Zf frame--
  
Having the Zf frame in place, the required shape of the Bollard and Hawse timbers finally clicked in my mind.  The angle to the keel (deadwood to be precise) of the Zf frame (55.24 degrees) is the key to all the Bollard and Hawse timbers, and if you cut (sand) that angle correctly into the "foot" of each Bollard and Hawse timber, the rest of the shaping of them follows.  I started with the Bollard timbers.  When I had the correct "foot", I lightly glued them to the stem, then on to the next Hawse timber, lightly gluing each in place to the previous one, as it fit.  All the "first try" starboard timbers had to be thrown out and recut (indeed, the outer starboard Hawse timber needed multiple tries), but only one of the port timbers.  Here they are in place--

They look very ragged and inconsistently sized, but they fit right at the foot, which is what, I think, seems to matter.  We'll see, I wouldn't be surprised if I have redo them again!
 
The two glued together groups were separated back off of the stem and first frame, and some further rough shaping done--
 
 
At this point they were marked (oh so crudely!) for the locations of the gaps, and will now be separated into individual pieces again to file those gaps into the timbers--

Thanks Rick.
 
Continuing with rough shaping of the Bollard and Hawse timbers, they are glued together, and sanded.  After they are close to the right shape, they will be separated and will be filed to form the correct gaps between them.  To the left, the first cant frame "Z (Forward)" is also cut out--
 
The second cant frame "Z (After)" is made up of two pieces each, with a chock.  This is my first time building a chocked frame, and the chocks need to be skewed to accommodate the inner and outer bevels of the frame--

 
  The skewed chock is made oversize and glued to the first piece--

 
Then it is sanded flush on the side without the paper pattern--

 
Here are the frames with the second piece ready to be glued.  However, I discovered that the upper starboard futtock (the one on the left in the photo) is misshapen.  The paper pattern became distorted when I glued it down.  I had had to lift and reposition it on the wood billet, and during that process it warped.  I will need to make some more paper copies, and cut another one--
 
 
Ron
 
 
 

I have a little bit more work to show.   Final shaping is not done, but I've glued together some of the pieces that make up the bow and stern framing--
 
The bow assembly-

 
The sternposts and deadwood assembly--

 
And the rough cutting out of the bollard timbers and hawse pieces--

 
Ron

I hope you are right, druxey!   Paul, yes, I made the clamps--credit goes to Ed Tosti, you can find them on his build log for Naiad.
 
While most of my work this week has been on Oneida, I have spent some time slowly sanding the bollard timbers to fay to the stem.
 
They need to match the concave taper of the upper stem--
 

 

 
 
Still some work needed, but they are getting close.   The overall width is constant now at the head and foot of the assembly--
 

 
 
Once I have them tapered correctly to the stem, I'll start roughly beveling them forward, and at the foot where they meet the lower apron.
 
Ron 

Thanks everyone for looking in, commenting, and liking!   
 
It's been a while since my last posting, but I have been spending time in the shipyard.   I have been slowly cutting out and gluing up the first full frame pair,Q-(f)orward and (a)ft, and all the rest of the pairs of forward cant frames.  Z was already done so that's R through Y (f and a for each).   
 
The last two are here.  They just happen to be Uf and Sa.  I did them mostly in order, but these were a couple of stragglers.  Their chocks are cut and ready to glue in--

 
And the backsides, as the chocks are being glued.  The slight angle on the clamping of the clothespins works well with the angle of the chocks since they don't sit square in the frames--

 
Here's the stack of frames.  After gluing the chocks in, each frame was given a rough inner and outer bevel, still leaving them plenty full, to allow for some minor inaccuracy in the shape of the frames, and for fairing.  The chocks have been sanded down almost flush.  The angle to the deadwood has been sanded in, which is different for almost all of them.  Next, the paper needs to be removed from the frames, the frames marked for identification, and then the canted chocks sanded flush with the faces of the frames--

 
And here is the forwardmost full frame, and the forward cant frames with paper removed (still some bits around some of the chocks); chocks ready to be sanded smooth--


 
This is an exciting point for me!   Soon I'll be ready to put the forward frames on the keel, including the bollard/hawse timbers, and see the bow take shape.
 
Ron

Thanks everyone for your encouragement!  It is very appreciated.
 
I carry on.
 
Here are the two sets of bollard/hawse timbers spot glued to the stem.  As I previously wrote, the port set seem to be okay, and the starboard set was the trouble.   This set looked like it was going to work out--
 
 
However, after removing them, and doing some more rough shaping, I discovered that the second hawse timber out was not okay.   I unglued it, and cut a new one, very oversized, to replace it--



 
I spot glued this one in place, and rough shaped the assembly--


 
Though these are FAR from perfect, and still require plenty of fairing, I pray that they are sufficient; though I will not be surprised to find out farther down the line that they have problems! 

They will not be permanently glued into place until I have more of the forward framing done. 
 
Ron 

Hello all,
 
It's been since last July that I've done any building on Euryalus.  When the 3rd attempt at the bollard and hawse timbers turned out to be a failure, I walked away, and I've only just in the last week or so had the motivation to try again.
 
So here I am--
 
 
As far as I can tell, the 2nd attempt at the port bollard/hawse timbers was okay.  I was lucky I think.  It's the starboard ones that have given me fits.  Here is a fourth batch cut out, roughly shaped, and stacked on the board.  During fitting, they seem good.  I am doing a first pass at sanding the partial gaps in them.  I'm not very confident yet with my Byrne's saw skill, so I'm still doing the gaps by hand.
 
I'm also starting to cut out the rising wood pieces.  I tried initially to use my rotary tool as a milling machine, to cut the notches, but the vertical adjustment is too imprecise and difficult get a consistent result with, so I'm doing the frame notches by hand, using a saw, small chisel, and file.  I've broken one corner, but I'll repair it and any other that may get "chipped" at some point--

 
Another task is slowly working on cutting out and assembling the frames.  First rough cut the pieces, then cut and chisel out the chock notches, glue up the frames without chocks, then shape and glue in the chocks.  I have all the forward cant frames at various stages of assembly--

 
Ron 

I made 4 card templates, and sanded the area of the deadwood below the bearding line.   In between sessions of doing that, I beveled the aft side of the sternpost-

 
After this was done, I glued the sternpost to the keel, and went back to sanding the deadwood.
 
When I was satisfied that I had done enough there, I cut two shallow mortices into the bottom of the deadwood assembly, and then glued in two small tenons.  These weren't meant to be historically accurate, but would add some strength, and help in keeping the piece aligned when gluing the deadwood to the keel and sternpost--

 
The tenons were filed down until they extended only about 1/32nd of an inch.  I then cut two shallow mortices in the keel and glued the deadwood to the keel and sternpost.   I had also morticed and tenoned the sternpost to the keel when I glued it to the keel earlier.   I did not tenon into the sternpost from the deadwood.
 
Here is the sternpost and deadwood glued to the keel.  You can see 4 pencil lines on the upper part of the deadwood (the fourth is barely visible) that had marked the locations for using the card templates--
  
 
Next will be work on the transoms, and fashion timbers.
 
All for now,
Ron
 
 

Hello 2024!  Time to work some more on Euryalus!
 
In preparation for assembling the stern framing and aft cant frames, the deadwood assembly piece needs a great deal of shaping, which I had started before my long hiatus, and I now continue--
 
 
Perhaps I am 75% done.  The goal is to get close to the correct concavity in the area between the bearding line and the keel and sternpost, so that a minimum of additional fairing need be done when the frames are on--

.   
 
All for now,
Ron

Thanks so much Allan.  
 
Incremental progress.   I'm now trying to put together the transoms and fashion pieces.  So far I've had to cut new transom pieces.  I had shortened them too much when fitting them to the sternpost earlier.  I cut a mortice in the fashion timbers, and tenons on the first transom, and here I have the lowest transom dry fit with the two aft fashion timbers resting in place--
 
 
The correct angle of the fashion timbers is verified with the squares--


 
I milled and chiseled out the next couple mortices in the timbers--

 
And am starting to fit the second transom--

 
This is all very slow going.   I've had to recut the third transom also.  It has a complex shape that needs to match the round up of the deck that it supports.  Though none of these pieces (transoms and fashion timbers) have been faired at all, that third transom needs a lot of shaping to get it to transition from the slot on the sternpost down to the mortices on the fashion timbers, which should be about five scale inches down.   All this seems to be going okay so far (apart from having to re-cut all the previously done transoms); hopefully I won't discover some egregious error that makes me start over, as with the bow timbers.
 
Ron
 
 
 

Thanks so much Allan.  
 
Incremental progress.   I'm now trying to put together the transoms and fashion pieces.  So far I've had to cut new transom pieces.  I had shortened them too much when fitting them to the sternpost earlier.  I cut a mortice in the fashion timbers, and tenons on the first transom, and here I have the lowest transom dry fit with the two aft fashion timbers resting in place--
 
 
The correct angle of the fashion timbers is verified with the squares--


 
I milled and chiseled out the next couple mortices in the timbers--

 
And am starting to fit the second transom--

 
This is all very slow going.   I've had to recut the third transom also.  It has a complex shape that needs to match the round up of the deck that it supports.  Though none of these pieces (transoms and fashion timbers) have been faired at all, that third transom needs a lot of shaping to get it to transition from the slot on the sternpost down to the mortices on the fashion timbers, which should be about five scale inches down.   All this seems to be going okay so far (apart from having to re-cut all the previously done transoms); hopefully I won't discover some egregious error that makes me start over, as with the bow timbers.
 
Ron
 
 
 

Thanks so much Allan.  
 
Incremental progress.   I'm now trying to put together the transoms and fashion pieces.  So far I've had to cut new transom pieces.  I had shortened them too much when fitting them to the sternpost earlier.  I cut a mortice in the fashion timbers, and tenons on the first transom, and here I have the lowest transom dry fit with the two aft fashion timbers resting in place--
 
 
The correct angle of the fashion timbers is verified with the squares--


 
I milled and chiseled out the next couple mortices in the timbers--

 
And am starting to fit the second transom--

 
This is all very slow going.   I've had to recut the third transom also.  It has a complex shape that needs to match the round up of the deck that it supports.  Though none of these pieces (transoms and fashion timbers) have been faired at all, that third transom needs a lot of shaping to get it to transition from the slot on the sternpost down to the mortices on the fashion timbers, which should be about five scale inches down.   All this seems to be going okay so far (apart from having to re-cut all the previously done transoms); hopefully I won't discover some egregious error that makes me start over, as with the bow timbers.
 
Ron
 
 
 

Looking great, JJ!  

Thanks so much Allan.  
 
Incremental progress.   I'm now trying to put together the transoms and fashion pieces.  So far I've had to cut new transom pieces.  I had shortened them too much when fitting them to the sternpost earlier.  I cut a mortice in the fashion timbers, and tenons on the first transom, and here I have the lowest transom dry fit with the two aft fashion timbers resting in place--
 
 
The correct angle of the fashion timbers is verified with the squares--


 
I milled and chiseled out the next couple mortices in the timbers--

 
And am starting to fit the second transom--

 
This is all very slow going.   I've had to recut the third transom also.  It has a complex shape that needs to match the round up of the deck that it supports.  Though none of these pieces (transoms and fashion timbers) have been faired at all, that third transom needs a lot of shaping to get it to transition from the slot on the sternpost down to the mortices on the fashion timbers, which should be about five scale inches down.   All this seems to be going okay so far (apart from having to re-cut all the previously done transoms); hopefully I won't discover some egregious error that makes me start over, as with the bow timbers.
 
Ron
 
 
 

Thanks so much Allan.  
 
Incremental progress.   I'm now trying to put together the transoms and fashion pieces.  So far I've had to cut new transom pieces.  I had shortened them too much when fitting them to the sternpost earlier.  I cut a mortice in the fashion timbers, and tenons on the first transom, and here I have the lowest transom dry fit with the two aft fashion timbers resting in place--
 
 
The correct angle of the fashion timbers is verified with the squares--


 
I milled and chiseled out the next couple mortices in the timbers--

 
And am starting to fit the second transom--

 
This is all very slow going.   I've had to recut the third transom also.  It has a complex shape that needs to match the round up of the deck that it supports.  Though none of these pieces (transoms and fashion timbers) have been faired at all, that third transom needs a lot of shaping to get it to transition from the slot on the sternpost down to the mortices on the fashion timbers, which should be about five scale inches down.   All this seems to be going okay so far (apart from having to re-cut all the previously done transoms); hopefully I won't discover some egregious error that makes me start over, as with the bow timbers.
 
Ron
 
 
 

Hello 2024!  Time to work some more on Euryalus!
 
In preparation for assembling the stern framing and aft cant frames, the deadwood assembly piece needs a great deal of shaping, which I had started before my long hiatus, and I now continue--
 
 
Perhaps I am 75% done.  The goal is to get close to the correct concavity in the area between the bearding line and the keel and sternpost, so that a minimum of additional fairing need be done when the frames are on--

.   
 
All for now,
Ron

I made 4 card templates, and sanded the area of the deadwood below the bearding line.   In between sessions of doing that, I beveled the aft side of the sternpost-

 
After this was done, I glued the sternpost to the keel, and went back to sanding the deadwood.
 
When I was satisfied that I had done enough there, I cut two shallow mortices into the bottom of the deadwood assembly, and then glued in two small tenons.  These weren't meant to be historically accurate, but would add some strength, and help in keeping the piece aligned when gluing the deadwood to the keel and sternpost--

 
The tenons were filed down until they extended only about 1/32nd of an inch.  I then cut two shallow mortices in the keel and glued the deadwood to the keel and sternpost.   I had also morticed and tenoned the sternpost to the keel when I glued it to the keel earlier.   I did not tenon into the sternpost from the deadwood.
 
Here is the sternpost and deadwood glued to the keel.  You can see 4 pencil lines on the upper part of the deadwood (the fourth is barely visible) that had marked the locations for using the card templates--
  
 
Next will be work on the transoms, and fashion timbers.
 
All for now,
Ron
 
 

Thanks so much Allan.  
 
Incremental progress.   I'm now trying to put together the transoms and fashion pieces.  So far I've had to cut new transom pieces.  I had shortened them too much when fitting them to the sternpost earlier.  I cut a mortice in the fashion timbers, and tenons on the first transom, and here I have the lowest transom dry fit with the two aft fashion timbers resting in place--
 
 
The correct angle of the fashion timbers is verified with the squares--


 
I milled and chiseled out the next couple mortices in the timbers--

 
And am starting to fit the second transom--

 
This is all very slow going.   I've had to recut the third transom also.  It has a complex shape that needs to match the round up of the deck that it supports.  Though none of these pieces (transoms and fashion timbers) have been faired at all, that third transom needs a lot of shaping to get it to transition from the slot on the sternpost down to the mortices on the fashion timbers, which should be about five scale inches down.   All this seems to be going okay so far (apart from having to re-cut all the previously done transoms); hopefully I won't discover some egregious error that makes me start over, as with the bow timbers.
 
Ron
 
 
 

Thanks so much Allan.  
 
Incremental progress.   I'm now trying to put together the transoms and fashion pieces.  So far I've had to cut new transom pieces.  I had shortened them too much when fitting them to the sternpost earlier.  I cut a mortice in the fashion timbers, and tenons on the first transom, and here I have the lowest transom dry fit with the two aft fashion timbers resting in place--
 
 
The correct angle of the fashion timbers is verified with the squares--


 
I milled and chiseled out the next couple mortices in the timbers--

 
And am starting to fit the second transom--

 
This is all very slow going.   I've had to recut the third transom also.  It has a complex shape that needs to match the round up of the deck that it supports.  Though none of these pieces (transoms and fashion timbers) have been faired at all, that third transom needs a lot of shaping to get it to transition from the slot on the sternpost down to the mortices on the fashion timbers, which should be about five scale inches down.   All this seems to be going okay so far (apart from having to re-cut all the previously done transoms); hopefully I won't discover some egregious error that makes me start over, as with the bow timbers.
 
Ron
 
 
 

Thanks so much Allan.  
 
Incremental progress.   I'm now trying to put together the transoms and fashion pieces.  So far I've had to cut new transom pieces.  I had shortened them too much when fitting them to the sternpost earlier.  I cut a mortice in the fashion timbers, and tenons on the first transom, and here I have the lowest transom dry fit with the two aft fashion timbers resting in place--
 
 
The correct angle of the fashion timbers is verified with the squares--


 
I milled and chiseled out the next couple mortices in the timbers--

 
And am starting to fit the second transom--

 
This is all very slow going.   I've had to recut the third transom also.  It has a complex shape that needs to match the round up of the deck that it supports.  Though none of these pieces (transoms and fashion timbers) have been faired at all, that third transom needs a lot of shaping to get it to transition from the slot on the sternpost down to the mortices on the fashion timbers, which should be about five scale inches down.   All this seems to be going okay so far (apart from having to re-cut all the previously done transoms); hopefully I won't discover some egregious error that makes me start over, as with the bow timbers.
 
Ron
 
 
 

Thanks so much Allan.  
 
Incremental progress.   I'm now trying to put together the transoms and fashion pieces.  So far I've had to cut new transom pieces.  I had shortened them too much when fitting them to the sternpost earlier.  I cut a mortice in the fashion timbers, and tenons on the first transom, and here I have the lowest transom dry fit with the two aft fashion timbers resting in place--
 
 
The correct angle of the fashion timbers is verified with the squares--


 
I milled and chiseled out the next couple mortices in the timbers--

 
And am starting to fit the second transom--

 
This is all very slow going.   I've had to recut the third transom also.  It has a complex shape that needs to match the round up of the deck that it supports.  Though none of these pieces (transoms and fashion timbers) have been faired at all, that third transom needs a lot of shaping to get it to transition from the slot on the sternpost down to the mortices on the fashion timbers, which should be about five scale inches down.   All this seems to be going okay so far (apart from having to re-cut all the previously done transoms); hopefully I won't discover some egregious error that makes me start over, as with the bow timbers.
 
Ron
 
 
 

Basically, I have finished the longboat. I don’t see the point in further detalisation. There will anyway be a boat on top. I didn’t do the the rudder as well, because I don’t have to install it anyway. All that’s left is to cover it with oil.

Post One Hundred and forty-eight
 
Fitting the Main ordnance 
The design of the 24 pounder carriages is such that it allows the guns to be fitted much later in the build, to reduce the risk of knocking them out of position.
 
The carriages were pinned to the deck earlier, and the guns are slid thro’ the ports to locate the trunnions in the open cap squares.
Quite a snug fit and it helps to have the port line at eye level to do the job.

3731
For fixing I used ca on the trunnions and bent nosed tweezers to press them into position.
 
For the eight waist guns, with each fitting the model is rotated to check that the barrels are squarely located on the carriages.  
For closed decks this aspect won’t be seen.
 
The simplification of the ‘open’ capsquares has no relevance because any view of them is severely limited, and the tops of the trunnions will masquerade as the capsquare tops.
 
Port Lids
These are pre-cut in Pearwood and supplied with etch hinges.
For the Qtr deck and Bow port lids a sheet of corrected lid patterns is supplied to replace those elements included on the main laser sheet of lids. All these lids are port specific.
 
As with the channel chains, the hinges are chemically blackened.
 

3737
I re-made the lids for the Main deck ports as I wanted a match to the existing hull planking in Boxwood.
 
I had a fancy to show at least one port closed.

3736
I decided to torment myself with trying to get the aftermost port lid sitting flush and lined up with the wale.

3739
It did take a bit of fettlin’ to get a decent fit.
 
In the end I decided to close three ports and have one open.

3744
The bow port is shown closed and the gun run in.

3760
My mainly open Foc’sle deck  gives a clearer view of one of the Twenty-four pounders.

3747
Three after port lids in position.

3748
The port lanyards have been fixed into position from the inside.
 
The suggested tackle line of 0.1mm (1½” circ) is a little thin.
I used 0.3mm ø Syren line which equates to 2½” circ.
(Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.)

3749
I was a little surprised by the inclusion of a single lanyard for the port lid tackle, particularly as the hull is that of a sixty-four.
The general arrangement for this period, except perhaps for smaller vessels, was for two lanyards per port, with lifting rings attached to the iron hinge straps.
On the kit this would entail drilling thro’ the straps, so the kit arrangement is probably a simplification to aid construction.
 
An alternative to aid ease of fitting would be laser board straps.
I have gone with the kit arrangement but if it annoys me enough I will re-visit.
 

3752
I’ve yet to fit the Qtr deck port lids, but as these are painted I will use the Pearwood laser parts.
 
 
B.E.
22/02/2024

 

Looking great, JJ!