catopower

America is one of my favorite subjects.   I look forward to seeing your work.
Those plans are a treasure. A great resource for a scratch build.

Thanks. It should be fixed now.

Brand new to model ship building. Acquired a vintage Model Shipways yellow box kit of the America Schooner Yacht to try out. I've always wanted to build a sail ship and this was a nice inexpensive kit to try out. I know it's different from most modern kits today, but let's see how it goes.
 
I have some experience in woodworking and have a pretty decent collection of tools to get me going. Here's the kit as it arrived, 

As someone has pointed out to me, the included metal fittings are likely lead and so I'll probably need to replace those.

I guess I'm a bit late here. Given the small scale (1/8" scale, correct?), have you considered just "faking" the beckets by using your halliard to strop the block and then continuing it on to run through whatever tackle it's part of? 
 
That's what I do when I have a becket block that's too small for a real becket (blocks maybe 1/8" or smaller).
 
Let me know if that makes sense.

I agree that the Vanguard Models Sherbourne should be a great way to enter the hobby. And, as I DO have a connection with them 😉, I should mention that Ages of Sail, just down the coast from you is a Vanguard Models dealer. You'll find the prices, plus free domestic shipping (any order of $150 or more), and proximity of shipper should give you the best experience. Just sayin'!
 
Welcome aboard, in any case Duane!

If the knots are getting too big, that it a good sign that the yarn for the ratline is oversized!
 
Circumference 1,5 Inch on the lower masts on big ships, otherwise just 1 inch. Just calculate the diameter for your scale 🙂
 
And with some training, the clove hitch goes as fast as an overhand knot but looks far better in an even appearence.
XXXDAn

There are builds where the ratlines are sewn (just passed with a fine needle) through the shrouds.  I've seen the ends treated with a tiny bit of CA, then clipped ... but that still leaves a little 'whisker' poking beyond - and the same thing happens if a clove hitch is used on the end.  Sine those stubbly bits are not really attractive, the solution is to use a "cow hitch" - which points the very end inward, and back to the direction of the ratline just secured.  That way, when the very end is trimmed, the stubble points inward on the back side (if the hitch is tied correctly), so it 'disappears' from view.

Working on my Bluenose ratlines now.  Using a clove hitch knot at a 1:64 scale using 0.009" rope.  You get into a pretty steady groove with a set of tweezers in hand to assist in grabbing.

BTW, I just received an order from Widget Supply. The owner is retiring and selling off his inventory at deep discounts, limited to stock on hand. I was able to snag a whole bunch of goodies: knife blades, sanding disks & drums, drill bits, Dremel bits, mandrels, needle files -- even zip ties. You should check them out!
 

I decided to add the wing fences next, even though they are not the next item in the instructions. I do think they add to the plane's "cool" factor.
 
Fences (left wing) vs. no fences (right wing).

 
All fences on.

Now for the last fuselage section. It begins with the engine exhaust nozzle, a rudimentary structure consisting of four concentric rings and a bulkhead. Warning: the inner nozzle piece was too long and ended up forming a cylinder with a diameter too large to wrap the outer piece around. I fixed this by forming the outer cylinder first, adding the bulkhead, and then trimming the inner cylinder to fit inside.

This finished basic cylinder gets wrapped with a pair of spacers.
 
The last fuselage section is a simple conic section with a joiner strip. After that is glued and has had time to dry, the faux exhaust nozzle is added from the front and the spacers (not the cylinder!) are aligned with the end of the cone.

 
Yet more drying time, after which we can glue the last section to the rest of the fuselage.

 
With that, the fuselage (except for the canopy and gun sight) is done! Next we'll move on to the empennage.

Introduction
Welcome to yet another build log for a non-wooden, non-ship model! This build is inspired by a discussion that was had in my A6M5a build log. Fellow MSW member Craig (CDW) shared that his only attempt at card modeling was "a disaster," in his words, so I suggested he take a look at WAK's skill level 2 kits and offered to build one along with him, whichever one he wanted. He took me up on the offer and chose the SBLim-2A, so that's how the subject of the build was selected. Richard (Richard44) has also expressed an interest in building this kit (click HERE to see Richard's build) -- let's see if we can get any others on board, maybe?
 
BTW, except for a very simple, free, downloadable, flyable MiG-15 glider I built many years ago, this will be only the second jet I have ever built in card. 😮
 
The Subject
The SBLim-2A is a Polish, license built, two-seat reconnaissance variant of the MiG-15, built by WSK-Mielic in the 1950s. It's actually a conversion of a conversion. Originally, 227 Lim-1 (Licencyjny myśliwiec - licensed fighter aircraft) were built; some of these were later converted to SBLim-1 two-seat trainers (equivalent to the MiG-15 UTI), and some of those were later converted to the SBLim-2A. Confusing, right?
 
The Kit

 
The kit, representing an aircraft wearing the 1993 livery of the 7th Naval Special Aviation Regiment, is designed by Lech Kołodziejski, a respected designer who has published his own designs under the brand name CardPlane. I have built five of Lech's CardPlane kits (see the finished non-ship models section). Lech's CardPlane offerings were all models of either prototype aircraft or planes that entered into very limited service. His designs published by WAK have been more widely recognizable aircraft. Some of his recent efforts, including this one, have been collaborations with graphic artist Marcin Dworzecki, whose work is second to none in the hobby. As you can see, I purchased the available molded canopy and laser-cut frames.
 
A quick pitch here for WAK. They have become one of my favorite publishers and a first-choice vendor. They offer a large selection of kits and always process orders promptly, package them securely, and offer very reasonable shipping rates compared to other vendors. If you shop there, tell them I sent you!
 
The kit is designed with amateur builders in mind, and it shows. In this next image you can see, for instance, that only very rudimentary cockpit elements are included. Stuff on the side walls is printed rather than being separate parts.

 
There are likewise no separate control surfaces nor landing gear bays. (EDIT: Upon further inspection, I discovered that optional wheel well parts are included.)

 
Lech draws pretty easy to follow diagrams. Horrible white balance in this shot -- sorry!

 
There's a lovely three-view.

 
Finally, as a huge bonus, but not shown here, the kit includes instructions in English.
 
The Purpose and Guiding Philosophy of This Build
We all know that when it comes to beginners and wooden ship models, there is such a thing as "too much model." This is certainly true for card models as well. If you have never built a card model before and decide to start with Halinski's Bf-110G-4/R8, you will fail miserably (heck, even I'm not ready for that one). The WAK Skill Level 2 kits are a good compromise between detail and ease of construction. At least I hope that will prove to be the case, because I haven't built one yet -- but I trust Lech. I have titled this as a semi-tutorial, because it is not my intention here to describe every necessary tool and basic technique for building a card model; if you need that kind of help, you can find it in our Torpedoboat V-108 tutorial. So I will not, for example, demonstrate how to fold a part or roll a tube, but I will try to include as much detail as is necessary to get a novice builder through this project. And speaking of 'novice,' I will also try to make this build as much as possible an "out-of-box" project -- except there is no box, of course.
 
So, join us on this adventure, won't you? And if you're feeling particularly bold, get the kit from WAK and jump in! Come over to the Dark Side --er, I mean, the "wonderful world of card models"!
 
Cheers!

Hi Clare,
Thanks for the quick response, that explains a lot, I was interested in the paper blocks after watching a video on how they assembled...pretty cool, I'll check out Cromwell.  I've a ways to go before I'm ready to rig and may still change my mind and go with conventional wood...but thanks again for the info and the quick response, much appriceated
THX
J

Well done!

Fantastic build Clare! I think that its amazing the one can build using card, forget that all the good stuff is printed.
 

and some photos of the copper plating, i used copper tape and a riveting tool to simulate the copper plates, this weekend i finished one side
 

well...today I finished copper plating the hull and the rudder, and I applied a first coat of blue patina, the result after one hour was this
 

Now i finish the stern cabin. Too many pieces, from wood,metal and brass. After painting, i put the chain as show in the manual. Many columns side by side close all the stern balkony.  Three lanterns are made and glued as show in the pictures. Also i make the four anckors from a metal part and wood with brass inforcments. Is't glued in place yet,because these parts must be the last to be fitted, as i will need to have all of the
masts in place first.  Now is time to make the barge (helping boat) .I make the two support for the barge, glued in the center of the lower deck
The barge will be made the same as the ship....nothing easy in this model....

At last i finish all channels,fitting all clump blocks (72 total) both sides of hull and nailed with pins...In the upper free block will be attached the threads from ladders for the three musts,just as the manual said...Attention needed that the clump blocks doesn't cover the gunbarrels from behind in any way

Now i have place the 4 parts of the second deck,i glue them and start the planking in the ship,because i think i can cover better the gaps and the deck will be placed correctly. But as you see in the pictures,i stopped in the half of the deck...because the planks 1X3 mm are finished...!!! I havn't damage any of them,i use every sinlge of them,but...isn't enough. I wrote to OCCRE and they answer that they will send me 60 planks more....Good service from OCCRE but why? The two members here SJORS and IOANNIZ who make the same ship they don't wrote something. Anyway,i must wait now the new planks to continue,hopping that this will not happen after again...

I have finish the first deck. I glue it in place and this is the result. I have apply two layers of mat transparent varnish for protection. Now the next step is the planking of the second deck, and that will cover the most part of the first. To be continued.....

We're VERY close now! 
 
I finally finished building up the fashion pieces and boom crutches at the stern. This was the probably the part that took the most creative thinking of the whole model. The paper fashion trim didn't fit due to construction variation in my model – that is, I didn't line up the parts as intended! 
 
Also, the drawings weren't very clear as to how the parts fit and just what parts were needed at the rail. This is the reason I'm doing this work after most of the rigging is done. It took me a long time to decide on how to best approach the problem.
 
As it is, it seemed to work out. Luckily at 1/8" scale, the details are too small to really discern any problems. Or rather, if there is a problem, my eyes are worn out enough that I can't see them.
 
Rigging is nearly complete now too. I just added the braces to that topsail spreader yard and just need to secure them once the positioning seems good. Next, I'll need to add braces to the small upper yard. The hardest part of the rigging now is really just how to secure the sheets for the jib. Not that difficult, just requires a little more thought because of how low I have mounted it.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
Last thing will be to add the flags and their halliards. Should have things wrapped in another week or two!
 
 
Clare

Thanks Druxey. Nothing like a snugged up rudder. It's so nice to look at the model and not be instantly drawn to that huge gap!
 
Well, I'm turning my attention to the rigging now. I've already simplified the rigging of the topsail and spreader yard, based on the great photos and paintings people have contributed. Now, I'm looking at the rigging of the gaff and mainsail. 
 
Below is from the Mamoli kit drawings. My plan is to make some small modifications based on the photos of the Utrecht replica. Special thanks to Gregory and Patrick(Baker) for the painting and Utrecht images. 
 
1. I'm going to replace this block(Fiddle block?) with a single sheave block attached at the gaff.
2. This brail block will be moved down the gaff slightly.
3. This brail block will be move down and replaced with a double block, so the brail from block 2 will pass through and down to the deck.
4. No need for this extra block, since block 3 will have a pretty clear path down to the belaying points at the deck.

Something else I noticed about the Utrecht replica and wondering about this on the Mary, is the lack of ratlines on the shrouds. It's been my plan to rattle down the shrouds. But, there's really no need for anyone to climb up the mast, except maybe a lookout. In the following excerpt from Ab Hoving's new book "Dutch 17th Century Ship Models in Paper", he shows another state yacht with no ratlines. Since this is essentially what the Mary was, would it have been without ratlines? Or, being a ship of the British Royal Navy, would they have added ratlines?
 

I'm not quite at the stage where I have to worry about the ratlines, but we're getting very close. Any thoughts?
 
Oh, and in the meantime, I decided to practice working with my laser cutter to make the 5-hole deadeye for the mainstay. I think this one is large enough, but I made parts for a slightly larger one. I guess I'll go ahead and make that one and see which looks better.
 
 
 
 
 

A minor update, but fairly significant for the model. 
 
Today, I got sick of the enormous gap between the sternpost and rudder and I clipped off the pintles and just pinned the rudder into place. I think it makes the model look a whole lot better!
 

Yes, it's not perfect, and you can see one of the pins if you look closely. But, I'm not striving for perfection here. I'm just going for a better appearance, and I think this works.
 
Now, I can move on to other things, as this is the last item that just bugged me!

Thanks Druxey. Nothing like a snugged up rudder. It's so nice to look at the model and not be instantly drawn to that huge gap!
 
Well, I'm turning my attention to the rigging now. I've already simplified the rigging of the topsail and spreader yard, based on the great photos and paintings people have contributed. Now, I'm looking at the rigging of the gaff and mainsail. 
 
Below is from the Mamoli kit drawings. My plan is to make some small modifications based on the photos of the Utrecht replica. Special thanks to Gregory and Patrick(Baker) for the painting and Utrecht images. 
 
1. I'm going to replace this block(Fiddle block?) with a single sheave block attached at the gaff.
2. This brail block will be moved down the gaff slightly.
3. This brail block will be move down and replaced with a double block, so the brail from block 2 will pass through and down to the deck.
4. No need for this extra block, since block 3 will have a pretty clear path down to the belaying points at the deck.

Something else I noticed about the Utrecht replica and wondering about this on the Mary, is the lack of ratlines on the shrouds. It's been my plan to rattle down the shrouds. But, there's really no need for anyone to climb up the mast, except maybe a lookout. In the following excerpt from Ab Hoving's new book "Dutch 17th Century Ship Models in Paper", he shows another state yacht with no ratlines. Since this is essentially what the Mary was, would it have been without ratlines? Or, being a ship of the British Royal Navy, would they have added ratlines?
 

I'm not quite at the stage where I have to worry about the ratlines, but we're getting very close. Any thoughts?
 
Oh, and in the meantime, I decided to practice working with my laser cutter to make the 5-hole deadeye for the mainstay. I think this one is large enough, but I made parts for a slightly larger one. I guess I'll go ahead and make that one and see which looks better.