catopower

Managed to finish these preliminary chainplates yesterday. Hopefully, this will make the rigging of the shrouds easier, which is coming soon.
 

Meanwhile, I just recieved some of Chuck's 2mm 3D printed blocks to use for the gun tackles. Wow, are these things tiny! I have some of Chuck's original 2mm pear wood blocks, and the size difference is more than I'd expected, at least visually. Wooden blocks on the left, 3D printed on the right.


I measured the wooden blocks and they come out to 2.13mm long, the 3D printed ones are 1.92mm.  So, they really are very close. The 3D printed ones are a little shorter and noticeably narrow, so they SEEM so much tinier. I guess the test will be to see what a gun tackle and train tackle look like, rigged. 
 
This assumes, of course, that I can actually add them to already placed cannons... 🤔
 
 

With yesterdays meetings behind me, I'm turning my energies back to HMS Wolf.
 
The new deadeyes are all stropped now, and I'm trying to rig up "faux" chainplates, which I'm expecting I will cover with some kit provided paper parts that LOOK like chainplates, but have no strength to them. 
 
What I'm installing are chainplates that don't look right, but should add strength to support the shrouds.

After these are all done, I'll face them with the kit pieces. And, if that doesn't look right, I may try to come up with something that makes these pieces LOOK like they're bolted to the hull. Not perfect, but at least it's progress!
 
I'll add that the amount of support these provide are pretty limited on this model, as many of the wires can only penetrate into the hull a very short distance, as they'll are above deck level.
 
Getting the length right for these short wire pieces is somewhat painstaking work. Were this wood, I could apply a lot more pressure in forming these links. 

Thanks for the encouragement, Jeff!
 
I have to admit, I tend to have purist leanings, but with card models, I'm not good enough to stick to them. Anyway, these laser cut Shipyard kits provide wood for the spars, acetate for the windows, resin for the figurehead and some decorations, cloth for the sails, and turned brass barrels for the cannons and swivel guns. So, it's not really a purist's kit anyway. 
 
Plus, these deadeyes from Chuck look so darned good!
 
I just received the 4mm deadeyes and, like all blocks and deadeyes I get, one size seems too big, and another seems too small. But, measured against the plans, the 4mm deadeyes are a good match, so I guess that's the way I'll go.
 

 
I'll get to stropping now and post pics afterwards.
 
In the meantime, I decided to upgrade my serving tools with a new Siren Serve-O-Matic (my Christmas present to me). I'm just now cleaning up the wood parts and assembling it now. I'll make use of this with the Wolf's shrouds and stays. Been a long time since I've done rope serving. I skipped it on some of my more recent builds. 
 

Progress on the Wolf is slowed up right now, as I'm trying to get some other things ready for a ship model meeting of the Mare Island Ship Modelers at the Vallejo Naval and Historical Museum next week. This marks the resurrection of the group and its official return to the museum.
 
However, I did start to get started on the foot ropes. I know some modelers just use wire for the stirrups, but I think they tend to look too perfect. So, I prefer making them from rigging line.

More after the meeting next weekend...
 
 
 

All the blocks have been added to the lower, topsail, and topgallant yards. 60 blocks in all. Still have the gaff, jib boom , and spritsail yards to do. Also still have the brace pendants and foot ropes to rig. But, I think I need a short break first...

And, what's a build log without some photos to share? Here's what I've been doing most recently...
 
It seemed like a good time to get those mast cleats mounted. Very tiny laser-cut cardboard. I glued them with Aleene's tacky glue. When adjusted and in the right place, I reinforced with some thick CA, then a drop of thin CA to stiffen up the part itself. 10 cleats mounted this way.
 

 

 
And then there are the blocks I've been adding to the yards. Topgallants are done, as is the main topsail yard.

Lots more to do...
 

Merry Christmas all!
 
I took a couple weeks to work on some other stuff, but then got back to my HMS Wolf build.
 
I decided to take a look at using Chuck's (Syren Ship Model Company) new resin deadeyes. I don't love the idea of using resin parts on my wooden ship models, but my paper models are really multi-media models anyway, as I'm using wood for masts, yards and blocks, metal cannon barrels... so why not resin deadeyes that so beautiful? You can see them here, along with a couple of the cardboard deadeyes from the kit.

Below, you can see how the model looked like, or would look like, with cardboard deadeyes...

And then, compare that to how it looks with Chuck's resin, 3D-printed deadeyes.

The larger deadeyes are 5mm diameter, and they look a bit big in comparison to the cardboard ones, which are also labeled 5mm, but are closer to 4.5mm. I wish there were 4mm deadeyes available from Chuck's store, but it's currently "Closed for Maintenance", so I have no way to see if he makes them in this size. I'd consider substituting the 5mm ones with 4mm ones if he makes them. If not, these will do.
 
Certainly the 3mm deadeyes on the mast tops look really good. I'm very happy with them!
 

For Christmas, I decided to get myself a new serving tool, which I intend to use with this model. So, I have a brand new Serve-O-Matic that I'll be assembling this week. In the meantime, I'm putting together a rigging table, so my line sizes should be more accurate than using sizes provided solely from the kit plans. Also, I have plenty of work to do on fixing blocks to the yards, and adding those mast cleats I mentioned a few posts back.
 
 
 

This weekend, I finally made progress stropping deadeyes. I made my own fixtures for this, as you can see in the photos. A wire is is wrapped around it, and I use small, bent nose pliers to squeeze the wire around the post and metal plate. The excess wire is then cut off and the deadeye is fitted inside.



In the last photos, you can see the masts are temporarily installed. I drill out the base of masts so I could glue in a section of a straight pin into each. The pin will push into the center backbone of the model when the masts are inserted into place. This helps hold the masts in place.
 


The instructions call for installing temporary stays, which you can see in at least one photo. These white lines will be removed later. For now, these will provide the main support for the masts while I work on the shrouds and on getting the correct angle for the chainplates, which attach to the deadeye stropping and secure the deadeyes agains the pull of the shrouds, which will also get installed later.
 

By the way, here is one of the Super Modeler Plan Sets and the beginnings of the Spanish 34-gun frigate Santa Leocadia.
 
I put together this much of the hull several years ago, to see how it goes together, but I didn't have any of the paper model experience or skills necessary to take on a task of this sort. It's really a set of scratch builder plans, with some parts provided to start off on the model.
 

 
Shipyard re-released a 1/96-scale paper model kit of this same ship. I have that too. In many cases, I should be able to scan and scale up any parts I may need for this 1/72 scale model. So, I could try to take this on.
 
As I already mentioned, I also have the super plans set for HMS Enterprize as well. This is almost identical to HMS Mercury, of which Shipyard also makes a big 1/72 scale kit, but it's something like $450. Still, all the parts are laser cut, and I wouldn't be risking this rare sper plans set. 
 
Anyway, just thought I'd share. HMS Wolf construction continues...

Today is Saturday, and our ship model club, The South Bay Model Shipwrights, met at our usual location at the Game Kastle shop in Santa Clara, CA, at the south end of the San Francisco Bay. It was a good meeting, and we have four out of the seven people out of the members in attendance that have built paper models. Three of us have built, or are building paper ship models.
Maybe it was that, or I don't know what, but I've just gotten so jazzed up about these Shipyard laser-cut kits that I'm just so ready to go out and get another one or two, so I can start working on them as soon as HMS Wolf is done. And, that's coming from someone who loves building wooden sailing ship models.
 
I actually have two of Shipyards "Super Modeler Plans" sets. These are plans for scratch building models, but they include all the laser-cut frameworks for the hull, as well as the inner hull covering, decks and planking, inner bulwarks pieces, to start the model. The idea is that the modeler can then use materials of his or her choice to cover the model with a final planking layer, then scratch build all their own details, armament, masts and spars, etc.
 
I'm absolutely itching to try building ones of these. But, they are limited edition sets, 150 of each were made, and I have HMS Enterprize no. 47 of 150 and Spanish Frigate Santa Leocadia no. 100 of 125 copies. When I start these, that's it, they're gone, and I really don't want to screw them up or leave them unfinished. 
 
They are made to be built at 1/72 scale, like my HMS Wolf kit, and I even have extra detail parts sets that were produced for them by GPM, which includes cannon carriages, hatch coamings, capstans, ship's wheel, mast tops, galley stove, and various cross bitts.
 
I kind of feel like I should maybe build Shipyard's HMS Mercury kit first. It's not cheap, but it is complete, and might give me a better handle on building these "semi-kits". 
In the meantime, I'm now working on rigging the yard arms on HMS Wolf. So, here are some pics of that.
 
 

No real progress yet. Been working too much. But, I did manage to try threading those 2mm blocks.
 
Worked out fine using 0.1mm Amati tan rigging line, as well as some of BenD's (RopesOfScale) 0.25mm black cotton line. Of course, in all cases, I had to use a dab of thin CA and trimmed the end to a point to thread it through. Clearly, I didn't wax any line here.
 

Also managed to complete assembly of my Syren Serv-O-Matic. I can start working on the shrouds and stays now!

Those are all plans published by kit manufacturers. Since they are published by different entities, it's impossible to make a blanket evaluation of the quality of the entire group. Some will be better than others in terms of detail, accuracy, and completeness.

Ordered from Chuck last night.

I have to agree that the un-even holes are hardly noticeable on a model, at least when viewed by others. But, at the same time, when I put them on my models, I as the builder notice, and that matters a lot to me. 
 
Those mass produced wooden ones are pretty standard. It's really hard to find ones that are proper, with evenly spaced holes. I'd be very curious as to the production process.
 
Anyway, the most perfect deadeyes are Chuck's and BlueJacket's pewter ones. BlueJacket even has them with grooves for all the holes except the one where the knot goes. So they're upper deadeyes are different from the lower ones.
 
But, I'm very happy with the 3D printed ones I received from Chuck recently. Not just the holes, but overall appearance and shape.

I have to agree that the un-even holes are hardly noticeable on a model, at least when viewed by others. But, at the same time, when I put them on my models, I as the builder notice, and that matters a lot to me. 
 
Those mass produced wooden ones are pretty standard. It's really hard to find ones that are proper, with evenly spaced holes. I'd be very curious as to the production process.
 
Anyway, the most perfect deadeyes are Chuck's and BlueJacket's pewter ones. BlueJacket even has them with grooves for all the holes except the one where the knot goes. So they're upper deadeyes are different from the lower ones.
 
But, I'm very happy with the 3D printed ones I received from Chuck recently. Not just the holes, but overall appearance and shape.

I have to agree that the un-even holes are hardly noticeable on a model, at least when viewed by others. But, at the same time, when I put them on my models, I as the builder notice, and that matters a lot to me. 
 
Those mass produced wooden ones are pretty standard. It's really hard to find ones that are proper, with evenly spaced holes. I'd be very curious as to the production process.
 
Anyway, the most perfect deadeyes are Chuck's and BlueJacket's pewter ones. BlueJacket even has them with grooves for all the holes except the one where the knot goes. So they're upper deadeyes are different from the lower ones.
 
But, I'm very happy with the 3D printed ones I received from Chuck recently. Not just the holes, but overall appearance and shape.

I have to agree that the un-even holes are hardly noticeable on a model, at least when viewed by others. But, at the same time, when I put them on my models, I as the builder notice, and that matters a lot to me. 
 
Those mass produced wooden ones are pretty standard. It's really hard to find ones that are proper, with evenly spaced holes. I'd be very curious as to the production process.
 
Anyway, the most perfect deadeyes are Chuck's and BlueJacket's pewter ones. BlueJacket even has them with grooves for all the holes except the one where the knot goes. So they're upper deadeyes are different from the lower ones.
 
But, I'm very happy with the 3D printed ones I received from Chuck recently. Not just the holes, but overall appearance and shape.

Once you get them laced up, I don’t think it’s that noticeable.
It’s really a matter of what makes you happy.
Those outside the modeling community would never notice unless you pointed it out.
 
Most kits lack a lot of accurate detail.  If you make the deadeyes perfect,  what about all the other detail?

the real question is; will it be noticeable after its laced up? ive used the cheap ones as well as the more expensive better made deadeyes, imho to tell you the truth, you really cant tell on the finished model. what becomes more visable are the sheer poles if they arent installed evenly, not the holes. 

Having bought a lot of kits over the years,  I don’t recall the deadeyes ever being consistent, except for the metal ones from BlueJacket.   This was true of blocks also. 
 
3D Printing has really changed the game.

Anyone who has been following this log shouldn't get their hopes up that I'm resurrecting this project... at least not yet.
 
However, just in case, and also to help rate a new product from Shipyard, I got myself their new 3D printed cannon barrels set for HMS Mercury. The set, which should be identical to  includes 24x 9pdr short guns, 6x 6pdr short guns, 4x 18pdr carronades, and 14x 1/2pdr swivels.
 

 
Here they are in the same order...
 




I'm amazed at how fine those handles and yokes are on the swivel guns, and that they're not broken (yet)!
 
The only issue I've run across is that the trunion on one side of one of the 6pdr guns was broken off. The piece was still in the bag. Might be too tiny to hang onto to make the repair. Other than that, the guns looked good.
 
Anyway, I thought someone building this or one of the other Shipyard 1/96 scale frigate models, or their HMS Victory model, might be interested. I'll definitely use these if I do end up continuing with this model. And, I do have reasons to try picking it up again, so who knows?
 
 

Anyone who has been following this log shouldn't get their hopes up that I'm resurrecting this project... at least not yet.
 
However, just in case, and also to help rate a new product from Shipyard, I got myself their new 3D printed cannon barrels set for HMS Mercury. The set, which should be identical to  includes 24x 9pdr short guns, 6x 6pdr short guns, 4x 18pdr carronades, and 14x 1/2pdr swivels.
 

 
Here they are in the same order...
 




I'm amazed at how fine those handles and yokes are on the swivel guns, and that they're not broken (yet)!
 
The only issue I've run across is that the trunion on one side of one of the 6pdr guns was broken off. The piece was still in the bag. Might be too tiny to hang onto to make the repair. Other than that, the guns looked good.
 
Anyway, I thought someone building this or one of the other Shipyard 1/96 scale frigate models, or their HMS Victory model, might be interested. I'll definitely use these if I do end up continuing with this model. And, I do have reasons to try picking it up again, so who knows?
 
 

Managed to finish these preliminary chainplates yesterday. Hopefully, this will make the rigging of the shrouds easier, which is coming soon.
 

Meanwhile, I just recieved some of Chuck's 2mm 3D printed blocks to use for the gun tackles. Wow, are these things tiny! I have some of Chuck's original 2mm pear wood blocks, and the size difference is more than I'd expected, at least visually. Wooden blocks on the left, 3D printed on the right.


I measured the wooden blocks and they come out to 2.13mm long, the 3D printed ones are 1.92mm.  So, they really are very close. The 3D printed ones are a little shorter and noticeably narrow, so they SEEM so much tinier. I guess the test will be to see what a gun tackle and train tackle look like, rigged. 
 
This assumes, of course, that I can actually add them to already placed cannons... 🤔
 
 

Anyone who has been following this log shouldn't get their hopes up that I'm resurrecting this project... at least not yet.
 
However, just in case, and also to help rate a new product from Shipyard, I got myself their new 3D printed cannon barrels set for HMS Mercury. The set, which should be identical to  includes 24x 9pdr short guns, 6x 6pdr short guns, 4x 18pdr carronades, and 14x 1/2pdr swivels.
 

 
Here they are in the same order...
 




I'm amazed at how fine those handles and yokes are on the swivel guns, and that they're not broken (yet)!
 
The only issue I've run across is that the trunion on one side of one of the 6pdr guns was broken off. The piece was still in the bag. Might be too tiny to hang onto to make the repair. Other than that, the guns looked good.
 
Anyway, I thought someone building this or one of the other Shipyard 1/96 scale frigate models, or their HMS Victory model, might be interested. I'll definitely use these if I do end up continuing with this model. And, I do have reasons to try picking it up again, so who knows?
 
 

Managed to finish these preliminary chainplates yesterday. Hopefully, this will make the rigging of the shrouds easier, which is coming soon.
 

Meanwhile, I just recieved some of Chuck's 2mm 3D printed blocks to use for the gun tackles. Wow, are these things tiny! I have some of Chuck's original 2mm pear wood blocks, and the size difference is more than I'd expected, at least visually. Wooden blocks on the left, 3D printed on the right.


I measured the wooden blocks and they come out to 2.13mm long, the 3D printed ones are 1.92mm.  So, they really are very close. The 3D printed ones are a little shorter and noticeably narrow, so they SEEM so much tinier. I guess the test will be to see what a gun tackle and train tackle look like, rigged. 
 
This assumes, of course, that I can actually add them to already placed cannons... 🤔
 
 

Managed to finish these preliminary chainplates yesterday. Hopefully, this will make the rigging of the shrouds easier, which is coming soon.
 

Meanwhile, I just recieved some of Chuck's 2mm 3D printed blocks to use for the gun tackles. Wow, are these things tiny! I have some of Chuck's original 2mm pear wood blocks, and the size difference is more than I'd expected, at least visually. Wooden blocks on the left, 3D printed on the right.


I measured the wooden blocks and they come out to 2.13mm long, the 3D printed ones are 1.92mm.  So, they really are very close. The 3D printed ones are a little shorter and noticeably narrow, so they SEEM so much tinier. I guess the test will be to see what a gun tackle and train tackle look like, rigged. 
 
This assumes, of course, that I can actually add them to already placed cannons... 🤔