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Bedford

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About Bedford

  • Birthday 10/20/1961

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    Male
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    Rathmines NSW Australia

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  1. Vaddoc, I get the need for these figures in the design phase and the fact that you're into them and sharing them is what this forum is all about and I know many will really appreciate your efforts. The Ptarmigan I just built (full size 5mtr sail boat) will have no doubt been drafted similarly but the building of it required simple graph plotting for the shape of the frames and correct spacing of the frames. Everything flows from there bearing in mind the golden rule of boat building, a fair line supersedes any given measurement! This might become apparent in the difference you have found in the width of the stem. I include a picture of what I built without knowing such detail, just to show it's a tad better than the boat you demonstrated above
  2. Mark, I tend to buy my brass stock from various ebay sellers but I'm not sure what sizes are available, what sort of parts are you talking about and what sizes would you need
  3. The overabundance of woodwork has been removed more easily than I had anticipated thanks largely to a new bit I found for the Dremel and the fact that a lot of it was just stuck in with silastic so a short crack with a small hammer broke them loose. The Dremel bit I took two sections of keel frame out to allow the installation of auxiliary drive so now I can fit up to a 540 can motor comfortably. Interestingly this next pic shows an epoxy filled mast step in the keel just forward of the bottom frame which raises more questions about what this model has been through given it appears to have never been finished.
  4. Vaddock, I was wondering what you're up to and now I know. I've watched several of Leos videos too. He really knows his craft doesn't he. Funnily enough, as a builder of full sized sailing boats, I get lost in all the discussion about lines and often wonder just how important all those calculations are but I guess they must be because people use them. So I'll just sit quietly on the sidelines until you start making sawdust
  5. I've spent the day removing the last remnants of the gunwales and deck. There was an awful lot of sanding to get rid of thick glue in the bow and stern, no idea what the glue is but it's tough to get rid of. Meanwhile I have no idea what sort of conditions the original builder thought this model might be subject to but it's built like an ice breaker. Huge oregon frames 15mm thick with a massive bow frame and the compression post is 1/4 the size of the one I put in my recent full size 17 foot build! If she's to become an RC sailer I'll have to find a way to get rid of a lot of it.
  6. The more I dug into the deck situation the more I realised the only viable option was to remove the gunwale then the margin boards and bring the hull back to level with the top of the sheer strake. So I cut off the bulwarks at the bow which won't be reusable except for the cap rails and proceeded to remove the stbd gunwale. I was looking at ways to cut it off so I might reuse it but that wasn't viable so I planed it off. Spotted Gum is a very tough timber but it planes beautifully so it didn't take long to remove, port side next then finding a way to remove the remnants of the deck. I didn't touch it today because after dodging it for 6 years I finally succumbed to covid and the energy levels just aren't there.
  7. John, that's always been on the cards, and I have the gear to do it, but since you can't scale the wind RC yachts tend to often sail in East Coast Low conditions so they have ballast bulbs well below the keel. This model has ballast weight built into the keel (see the black portion in the above pics) but I don't know what it is. It's fibreglassed over. Is it heavy enough? Can it be drilled to allow attachment of extra ballast while sailing? Would I sail it much? How long is a piece of string?
  8. Well I've ripped the whole deck off because the planks were not glued down properly everywhere and the "tar" was just cheap wood filler putty which was falling out, I tried just removing the planks from the ply substrate but where it was glued well it was really glued on and the substrate ply is way too thin and flexes under the chisel so it's gone. There will now be a lot of carving, cutting and sanding to get the frame tops even and ready for new beam shelves (of which there are none) and deck frames. I'm also considering rigging options, as a Bermudan rig the mast will rise 1.9mtrs above the deck meaning she'd have to live on the floor which would hide the beautiful lines of the hull. As a gaffer the mast would rise 1.5mtrs which still leaves the boat itself pretty low on display. One option rattling around is to do it like an admiralty model with only about 250mm of mast so the hull is displayed at a much better height.
  9. Thanks Keith, I'll have to have a good look through that lot Trevor, you've got me further ahead then I was, thanks.
  10. This might be a long shot but I'm trying to find info on how to design the rig and sails if I go RC and all I keep getting is how to make the sails or very class specific info. Does anyone here know how to design a sail plan or know who does?
  11. Yeah, we in Aus tend to shorten names but Oregon Pine aka Douglas Fir or as our Irish shipwright calls it, Irish Pine - O'regon
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