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Everything posted by Bedford

  1. I can chime in on the coal port question as well, given my work on Waratah. She has a main coal hatch on the deck forward of the wheelhouse which is about 3 x 6 feet but also has side bunkers which have round hatches of approx 20 inch diameter at a guess. These hatches have surrounds of about 4 inches in width so the overall diameter is in the order of 28 inches. I'd imagine that's about the right size for dumping a bag of coal into.
  2. Sand paper is your friend, for now but you'll come to hate it. One tip I learned part way through sanding epoxy is use wet&dry with a little water and once the "dust" becomes paste it really starts cutting well
  3. I probably should have said this earlier but a lot of stitch and glue builds use cable ties. Easier to tighten than twisting wire.
  4. My friend, slowly but surely it takes shape and from my own experience I can assure you there are myriad ways of handling and holding bits of boat that will present themselves to you in absence of reliable assistance.
  5. "Reasonably representing the real thing" he says while making the most beautifully detailed model!
  6. Gary, I'm always glad to be of service be it confusing or not. The Waratah is great fun, just last weekend myself and the Commodore of the fleet gave her deck a salt water wash and scrub, oh the joy!
  7. I'll answer your prop walk question, or confuse you. I crew a 1902 steam tug named Waratah, she has a right hand prop and the tow hook wasn't generally used because they had been deemed dangerous so a line was made off to the port towing bollard and the wear from the towlines is very evident. The reason the port bollard (which is mounted directly behind the cream coloured superstructure and about 1mtr off centre) was used is because the prop walk wanted to turn the boat to stbd and the tow line to port helped correct it. When coming into our berth if the mas
  8. Yeah I didn't think you'd make a mistake like that but thought it should be pointed out just in case. There are people who really can't get their heads around gears and the like.
  9. Beautiful work Valeriy but unless I'm missing something it appears that one of the "V" cut gears needs to be turned the other way, those teeth won't mesh like that.
  10. I found the perfect collet chuck for holding those tiny nails etc. It was the chuck in an elcheapo dremel knock off I used years ago. Glad I kept the motor part when I chucked the rest out. The chuck was held to the motor shaft with a grub screw so it was easy to remove and does a great job.
  11. In the last pic above you can see two brass studs with conical heads. I have used these throughout the build and they are the small brass nails that come with ship kits. The heads on them are awful so I have reduced them in size and centered the heads by turning the angle into them. To do this in my lathe was difficult because even the jacobs chuck that fits the headstock would not hold them. After I bought a set of ER32 collet blocks and chuck I still couldn't hold them because they are only 0.87mm but I remembered a cheap old dremel knock off I had and the collet chuck was very e
  12. A little bit more hardware, the screw jack and socket for the arm used to turn the gun when aiming (so the vertical and horizontal aiming system) Yes, the wooden handles are belaying pins!
  13. How about some trunnion clamps for want of a better word. I clamped two pieces of brass together in the mill vice, drilled through on centre, separated them and used them as press molds to shape the clamps before bending the brass around to form the hinge. I then filled the rolled brass hinge section with solder before running a drill through it to get a nice round body for the hinge pin. The fixed part of the hinge was milled from bar stock and drilled before being cut off with a slitting saw.
  14. More a display piece I think but it will have some of its associated equipment
  15. The hub hardware was simply turned from brass stock and a few rings and some chain left over from ship models
  16. Then the hub and spokes, the hub was done in much the same way as the rims but instead of drilling holes I milled slots, again the resetting to allow the second set of cuts required a lot of measuring, checking and re-checking. The spokes where round stock (Tasmanian oak as with the rest of the wheel) which I set up in the square collet block to machine a 3mm square section before mounting in the lathe to round out the rest of the shaft. It was messy and Tas oak tends to splinter in the lathe so there where a few that ended up in the bin. The spokes are not glued to the rims or the
  17. Next came the wheels, these are the tricky bits. First glue up a hex drum with a dowel centre that can be held in collets to allow all the processes required. Turn it to a nice round shape deep enough to cut two rims from then remount in the hex collet block and drill 2 rows of 6 spoke holes before resetting in the collet block to allow drilling of the next set of holes. This took a lot of fine measuring to get right. As a result the wheels have 12 spokes.
  18. Well I tell you what Eberhard, if you ever drop in for a scotch I'll take you rowing or sailing depending on the weather
  19. Thanks guys, Eberhard you're just going to have to build a boat when you retire.
  20. I've just found this and I have to agree it looks great. I always loved this car and wanted to build the model but never did. On a side note, I was driving home from Sydney to Orange years ago in my Defender and there was a big hill infront of me, the west bound climb out of Hartley for the locals, there is a side road that comes in at the foot of the hill and being infront in the Defender I really didn't want anyone to pull out of the side road and slow me down or I'd have been lucky to crest the hill at 70kmh in 3rd. I saw a vintage car about to pull out and thought NOOOOOOOOOOOO, then
  21. The next job was to rout out and plug the clew reefing sheave hole then rout the sides of the boom to accept reefing combs for which I turned another two sheaves. I then routed another sheave hole further aft so the original reefing sheave could be reused as part of an outhaul for the foot of the sail which it did not previously have. I've yet to use the reefing system while under way but it now has 4 separate downhauls, one each for the first and second luff reefs and the same for the leech reefs, these downhauls are led through fairleads on the boom with eye splices in the ends t
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