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Everything posted by Bedford
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Always a pleasure to have you back onboard Michael
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The Sutton Hoo ship is very interesting Keith. I'm a member of Lake Macquarie Classic Boat Assoc. we are a similar bunch of "old codgers" who build and restore classic boats but not to that scale or degree of authenticity. I think groups like that are always welcoming and happy to discuss their work. I can definitely appreciate the amount of waste that would occur cutting their strakes that way but it's authentic.
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I think Mark is onto it but the vertical lever is the tiller (side steering) and the half inch rod is a keeper rail to protect it. So bent to 90deg at each end and into the carlin or coaming so the tiller is captive. I'd guess side steering was the ideal method for a small fishing boat as it leaves the cockpit and the other side of the boat clear to work.
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Yes, I've seen and held Johns previous model and it's just beautiful. The man does excellent work!
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I use PVA and a little C.A. where applicable unless it's going to get wet in which case I use epoxy. Used WEST on the first RC one I did and it's a nightmare, the stuff goes off while you're mixing it! I now swear by Bote Cote. No nasty chemicals and no hardening anxiety, it gives plenty of work time to get a good job.
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Nice to see you making some progress mate, You'll have to elaborate on the restoration project. There are a lot of beautiful, and some quite large, ship models there.
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That's a great demonstration, lovely to see it moving with all oars. If you look at the rudders on RC sailboats you'll find they are normally way oversize because scale size isn't enough so if you want scale rudders you might need to get creative like, and it's a sneaky and historically abhorrent solution but I'm sure you could get a small bow thruster to slip into probably the stern, for proper movement, to help it turn.
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All that beautifully intricate work foiled by cheap crap auxiliary components. It drives me mad that I can't buy good quality things like that anymore
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It had to be incredibly frustrating having gone to great lengths to get the planking so good only to see it open up. It looks brilliant now but I'd be inclined to get that paint on as a matter of urgency to seal it before the moisture level changes again.
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On the subject of rudders, I wonder if they were, in reality, more trim tabs than actual rudders, as is the case in tall ships in which the set of the sails does most of the heading work. Having had the helm on a 4 man row boat I can tell you the rudder only has any real effect when the oars are out of the water so you end up with a segmented turn.
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I was thinking the same as Grant, once you get the second tier of oars it should speed up, yes it's slow off the mark but then it should be. Before worrying about oar size I'd suggest you work out the theoretical hull speed "Hull speed can be expressed as a simple mathematical formula 1.34 X the square root of the length of the waterline (HS = 1.34 x √LWL). For instance, if a cruising sailboat has a waterline length of 36 feet, she should be able to sail 1.34 x 6, or approximately eight knots." Then work out the scale speed of the boat and take it from there, mind you it's doubtful such a big rowing boat would have ever attained hull speed. As for the amount of ballast, I'd leave that as is too for now because water doesn't behave in a scale fashion so if you make it lighter it might get tossed around like a cork. The ballast helps her ride in a more scale manner.
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I'm glad the float test went well and it's good that you're thinking ahead and painted that prop, could avoid a disastrous encounter.
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