Bedford
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Everything posted by Bedford
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It's a Selway Fisher Ptarmigan 17 as redrawn in the glued lapstrake format with a yawl rig
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And the other slightly bigger project.......
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Well it's been quite a while between drinks on this build, mainly because I just haven't been happy with the chain plates and couldn't see a solution so I walked away. I have also been somewhat engrossed in a slightly bigger project..... I found a viable solution to the chain plate issue and was given an Amati shroud rigging jig which I promptly threw away but kept the pins. It didn't suit the lay of the shrouds on this ship and what's the use of a jig that doesn't let you mount the dead eyes until it's off the jig. I centre drilled each pin and inserted a length of 1mm brass wire so I could measure up the shrouds, drill holes in a jig for the pins and fully create the shroud including dead eyes before the rat lines. It's a lot easier than doing them in situ.
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Just another thought on the lead shot ballast, if you pour it in loose and spread it around to where it works best you can then pour a little epoxy over it to secure and seal it.
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Sorry to hear of the heart attack but very happy you've recovered and are back on deck. You've been missed as have you amazing skills!
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Shame about the planks but as you suggested, it's not a real concern, The rest of what you've been up to is beautiful, and I love a good pic of the symmetry of frames.
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I was referring to the Ranger model you took into SASC
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Well done, she looks great. Inspires me to get on with my R.C.
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Well done, she looks great. Inspires me to get on with my R.C.
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Well I decided to have a look to see if anyone I know had another build going and I found this. Having seen the last one in the flesh I know the owner ill be well pleased with your efforts. I'm tagging along.
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More nice progress! As for filling/sealing, I reckon you can't go past epoxy. You don't want to be paying a fortune for it but you should be able to get small trial packs. You can get really thin epoxy like everdure which goes on thinner than varnish and is easy to sand the furry first coat before doing a few more. If you get some normal epoxy you can thicken it with "Q cells" or similar. This makes an excellent easy sanding filler. I know Boatcraft in Aus do trial packs of the above with their Bote Cote epoxy system.
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You've come up with a very clever solution and it does look very much like chain. Well done, as usual.
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That could have been devastating, glad you were able to salvage it. Perhaps it's worthwhile moving incomplete models inside during long pauses in the cold months? Now you're doing some very fiddly stuff fitting that deck.
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Absolutely beautiful, are you planning some kind of cap to hide the socket head screw. A polished brass plug perhaps?
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This is a build from which I will suffer some degree of withdrawal, every time I open the site I do so with great anticipation that Valeriy has a new post on this magnificent build.
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We tend to be our own worst critics but then we build for our pleasure so must please ourselves. I think it looks pretty damn good.
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Absolutely stunning Keith, I think I'll be suffering withdrawal symptoms once the pics stop coming
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Now you've got me worried, band saw, chain saw, circ saw, jig saw, scroll saw, super sharp model making saws and various hand saws and to date, no stitches in 61 years. What's around the corner!!! Mind you I have left a few drops claret in most jobs in one way or another. Glad your injury wasn't too serious though!
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I think that's somewhat a shame, modern bureaucrats killing off old skills. Here in Aus the Sydney Heritage Fleet recently relaunched the steam ship John Oxley after 30 years on the hard. All hull plates have been replaced and RIVETED as per original, they did the same on the James Craig and S.T. Waratah has a riveted hull too. The governing bodies really should recognise and allow historically correct work on these vessels.
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Keith, I'm biased but I don't reckon you can beat Ena. I've been aboard a few times and the details would really test you. Not to mention she is a museum ship now at the Australian National Maritime Museum.
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Interestingly, in the book Hand, Reef and Steer by Tom Cunliffe he states that the jackyard topsail should be raised on the port side only. Although it will not be as efficient on the port tack it still works and the reasoning is simple bearing in mind he would be referring to English vessels with a job to do, short voyages and not many hands. The sail has to be raised and lowered on the lee side of the rig for obvious reasons and since doing so is a busy affair you don't want to have to leave it to tack away to avoid another vessel. Having it on the port side means you raise or lower it when on a starboard tack and therefore have right of way over other vessels.
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