Bedford
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Everything posted by Bedford
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Yeah, that'll be it. I can see them wanting to keep tenders etc away from the hull, the boom would let them swing the tender in when they wish to use it -
I'm hopping aboard again too, that's a very pretty and interesting subject for a model.
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As you know, I'm no expert in the field of quadrireme design or use so take this however you chose. I own a 15 foot Tammie Norrie, a beautiful rowing/sailing dinghy with a bit much freeboard for rowing in windy conditions so I deploy the rudder in such instances. My oars are 8 feet long so the motive force is at two points 16 feet apart in the water. That's a lot of leverage applied by each oar. To overcome that leverage with a rudder is not easy. I can tell you from experience that the boat can not follow the arc set by the rudder while being rowed. It goes straight and then when oars are lifted for the back sweep it takes the rudder a second or so to overcome the straight line momentum before imparting its influence on the direction of the boat. The boat traces an almost porpoising action but on the horizontal plane. This is with a full scale rudder in full scale conditions. Another way to look at it is as a drag car. Imagine a locked differential driving two tyres 4 feet wide and trying to steer with 4 inch front wheels. It ain't going to happen. The only way I can steer my boat in an arc is by altering the power I apply to the inboard oar and shortening the stroke. So as I see it you either reprogram to achieve this or make MUCH BIGGER rudders.
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Beautiful work Mark You're right about shaping ply, the good marine ply I've used for rudders and keel on my full size builds and the Miss Caroline model were very easy to get right because of the perfect contour lines created by the ply layers
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Keith, I don't think you'll have too much trouble making the ply conform as long as the curves aren't too great. We are building a 16 foot sailboat at the boatshed and it's got 6mm ply sheeting that has to bend two ways to meet the curve of the chine. The big thing is being able to pull it in and clamp it effectively and using the right glue. I suppose you've already considered the joint between the two lengths of ply but in case you haven't I'd be using a scarf joint rather than a butt joint to make the joint easier to hide.
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What he said! Well done, the tedium of planking is behind you, now we look forward to the fancy stuff
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Congratulations, a very long project with incredible attention to detail. A masterpiece! What's next I wonder...
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Chair pulled up, coffee brewing. I'm in for the whole show and looking forward to it
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That's a beautiful planking job Keith and the steel sanding guide plug is a great tip
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1876 Parcel van by michael mott
Bedford replied to michael mott's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Beautifully executed, I love it! -
1876 Parcel van by michael mott
Bedford replied to michael mott's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I'll follow this one, I love a scratch build mechanical model and you'll come up with some very interesting processes no doubt -
I just found this and will be following along keenly. When I saw the first pics I thought "I don't remember that model at the museum" now I understand why. I think I'd much rather build from scratch than alter and complete someone elses project but it must be done and you'll do it beautifully.
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Very nice solution Keith, having the equipment and being able to see unusual ways to use it makes a huge difference doesn't it
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The Sutton Hoo ship is very interesting Keith. I'm a member of Lake Macquarie Classic Boat Assoc. we are a similar bunch of "old codgers" who build and restore classic boats but not to that scale or degree of authenticity. I think groups like that are always welcoming and happy to discuss their work. I can definitely appreciate the amount of waste that would occur cutting their strakes that way but it's authentic.
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Well Keith, I knew this one was coming but I've been so tied up in my 1 : 1 build I forgot all about it but I've had a quick skim through up to present and am now eagerly watching another masterpiece take shape
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I think Mark is onto it but the vertical lever is the tiller (side steering) and the half inch rod is a keeper rail to protect it. So bent to 90deg at each end and into the carlin or coaming so the tiller is captive. I'd guess side steering was the ideal method for a small fishing boat as it leaves the cockpit and the other side of the boat clear to work.
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That's some nice progress mate, she looks great. I'm having trouble finding this metal rod of which you speak, is it that dot in way of the rudder head? If so I'd say it's a locking pin to stop the tiller coming off in adverse conditions.
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I love that last shot, beautiful planking. More use of Huon Pine, lovely stuff!
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Mark, I went to the Boat Warehouse on Monday and they have a model Ranger too, not a patch on the ones you build though. Meanwhile, I'm in Rathmines on Lake Mac and building my 2nd 12 inch the the foot model
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Nice planking job Mark, and didn't Cliff draw beautiful lines!
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Yes, I've seen and held Johns previous model and it's just beautiful. The man does excellent work!
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I haven't used it on any models yet, I'm too busy taking Sheriff Brodys advice and building a bigger sail boat.
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I use PVA and a little C.A. where applicable unless it's going to get wet in which case I use epoxy. Used WEST on the first RC one I did and it's a nightmare, the stuff goes off while you're mixing it! I now swear by Bote Cote. No nasty chemicals and no hardening anxiety, it gives plenty of work time to get a good job.
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