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Bedford

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Everything posted by Bedford

  1. Yeah Keith, I'm replacing the broken drills with 10 packs. The HSS ones Eberhard mentioned would be great but I haven't found any and these are cheap. As for work holding I still have patience to learn in that area, I'll always try the quick easy way first but I can generally tell when I need to go the long route before I start something.
  2. Yeah Eberhard I considered making something better to hold the pins but I only needed 6 and have about 500 to work with. I'll have to keep my eyes open for better HSS drills but these are cheap and plentiful
  3. I got a set of micro drills last week and they've been very handy despite the steep learning curve using such fine drills in a machine, I broke the 0.3mm while getting the 0.4mm out! I cross drilled three of the 0.8mm pins with the 0.4mm bit before it snapped on the way out after drilling the hole, I think a bit of swarf came up with the drill and jammed it. I had to drill the remaining three holes with the 0.5mm bit which required very accurate centering leaving only 0.15mm either side of the hole. I couldn't hold the pins in a collet because I haven't got one small enough so I just clamped them in the machine vice and then used the 1mm bit to start the hole to prevent the smaller drill running off the side of the pin and breaking. The wire I used to put through the pin is 0.3mm diameter The pins were cut just past the holes
  4. Eberhard, you have a conundrum! Michael and Joe, thanks. Yes you become very aware of the slight changes in the breeze direction and strength as well as the tide and I still have so much to learn.
  5. It's tough when the wife has different ideas to you, you know most sail boats have engines too.
  6. Richard, if you have the time and space, do it. It was a joy to build and every time I take it out I get someone wanting to know all about it, it never fails to attract attention.
  7. It's beautiful Richard although when rowing, which I do more than sailing, she's light and easily influenced by wind. She weighs about 230Kg with me in it and there's a lot of freeboard. The centreboard helps in that instance but it can still be hard work keeping it on line but I'm doing for exercise as much as pleasure so that's ok. I haven't done much sailing yet but when I do sail her she glides along beautifully and will make way in extremely light breezes. I'm yet to encounter stronger wind and don't intend to until I'm a better sailor. I don't know if this link will work because it's from facebook, it was taken by a bloke I sailed with last year, mine is obviously the other boat.
  8. Beautifully executed Keith, sort of the inverse of my method, giving a stronger result. I'll remember that! Is this why you were looking for an octagonal collet block?
  9. Standing rigging done. I couldn't make the thimbles any smaller so I filed them down as much as possible to reduce the outside dimensions to suit the stainless steel wire which is smaller than the rest of the rigging, thereby making them look smaller than the ones in the running rigging. The crimps were made from the same copper tube that I used for the thimbles. Running rigging in place but nothing to tie off to yet. Still deciding whether or not to make sails for it.
  10. I was thinking exactly that but no, you're the master Still keen to see your method
  11. Yeah Keith I see what you're saying and I'm keen to see how you create it.
  12. Mark, when I built the full size version I went for classical craftsman type finish and that meant this sort of detail, not to mention the fact it protects the keel etc very well.
  13. Thanks gents The rubbing strips are done and the model is once again righted. As a footnote on the construction of the strips, I secured the split brass to the MDF flat side down with masking tape to drill the pin holes to 0.9mm and then countersunk each hole to 1.2mm to allow the pin head, once reduced in size by filing in the pin vice, to countersink. Because the pin head reduction was done by hand and eye I had to remove some of them and further reduce the heads to fit in, a bid fiddly but I got there. I'm going to have to find a suitable collet to hold these little pins so I can shape the head properly in the lathe if I do this sort of thing again.
  14. Keith, I can see my mast band method working there, if you make it in brass or can braise aluminium. Instead of one diameter drilled into the stock you'd do both with an end mill then slit the tabs in the collet block. You would have to remove excess tab material in places but it's doable
  15. Ah, I suppose I should have realised that you'd have the LED colour under control given your attention to detail.
  16. I've only just found this build because it was featured on facebook, wish I'd seen it sooner, exceptional work! I only add this because of your obvious drive for aged realism, as someone who is also from an electrical background the colour of the masthead LED really stands out as not fitting with the boat, it seems to be of the 5000 to 6000K colour range (daylight). It would look so much more authentic if you could get those LED chips in 3300K (warm white) because that is much closer to the old incandescent lamps.
  17. I can see the logic in that design but pity the poor deck crew having wet feet all the time. Beautiful work as usual.
  18. Your idea Keith, using CA to hold the brass while machining, wouldn't have been able to do it otherwise. I did consider just milling it but by slitting I got two pieces from one bar which meant I could get all I needed from one 500mm piece of rod, the 4mm rod less the 1,5mm cut gave two "D" profiles of the correct size. I did need to put a wedge under the free end of the top piece as the saw progressed to keep it from laying onto the saw as it went. For the 2mm rod that will form the protection strips on the bilge runners I'm thinking I'll mill a 2mm rebate in the MDF then glue the rod down and once I've taken the datum for the cut I'll glue another piece of MDF over the top of it and clamp that to the base, this way the top section of rod will be properly supported during the cutting process.
  19. I got a new tool the other day and put it to good use. I decided the best way to make the "D" profile brass rubbing strips was to slice 4mm diameter brass rod down the middle with a 1.5mm slitting saw. First I glued up 2x 12mm MDF plates to make a 24mm base to work on, nice and thick and stable. I then ran the MDF under the mill with a router bit to make sure it was level and true to the mill. Then using CA I glued the brass down to the MDF and proceeded with the cut. It worked very well and I'm happy with the result. Next is to try it again with 2mm diameter rod slit with a 0.7mm blade but that's for another day. I have a photo exactly like the next one of the real boat
  20. Great work Keith, that ship has a lot of serious metalwork doesn't it. Dorothea MacKeller wrote that Australia is "a land of drought and flooding rain" and in my 58 years experience I can vouch for that. Drought is always broken by flood and it's happening now, huge widespread downpours wiping out sporting events, concerts and the like but who cares, it's raining and a lot of the fires that were still burning are finally being extinguished. I guess what I'm going a long way around saying is, don't complain about the rain.
  21. Keith, the only problem, well one of the problems because there are a few, of building at a larger scale is that you must build a smaller ship. Another problem is the fact that detail is much more evident although for you this is not a problem at all.
  22. Yes I remembered that method and looked at using it especially since I have suitable brass strip but these are too small for a ball mill so had to come up with the alternative, the big problem and detail limiting factor is the softness of the annealed copper. It's hard to work without destroying it.

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