Bedford
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Everything posted by Bedford
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Given the unusual heat you've been experiencing I suppose it's not unexpected for the wood to behave that way. I wonder though what happens when it returns to normal. Will that filler become an issue or will you seal the timber before it has a chance to re-hydrate? -
Keith, you've done so much beautifully detailed work on this build that I'd forgotten about that interior work. It was a nice re-surprise if you will.
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Allan, I'm no expert but the "anatomy of" book clearly shows belaying pin rails. Also, and again I can't speak with huge authority here but, the replica Bark Endeavour, on which I have sailed, is said to be among the most accurate ship replicas in the world, the original was launched in 1764, and you guessed it, belaying pins everywhere! HMS Victory launched 1765 and this is the original, not a replica. AT 33 seconds into this vid you see belaying pins!
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There's been a bit more progress. The plan calls for two spiral staircases, one either side leading from the top of the kings cabin to the main deck but they don't include the doors which provide access below for the crew. According to the plan the hand rail across the front of the kings cabin carries from all the way starboard to a point which allows access to the stairway to the deck below on the port side therefore while the plan calls for two staircases it makes one redundant. The "anatomy of" book about this ship clearly shows there is only one staircase, to port, but there is access to the below decks on both sides. The kit doesn't call for any kind of hand rail for the spiral staircase but I'm working on a wooden hand rail. I bent some brass wire around the staircase following it's descent then found a round object of the same radius and laminated two pieces of walnut around it after soaking in boiling water. So far so good but a bit of work to do yet.
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From what we're being told in Aus, only about 5% of private residences in UK have AC, they just don't (normally) need it. We're used to those temps in Aus but we know our Brit mates aren't. They are talking about having to learn from us and the US because they just aren't equipped for these temps and fires. Their emergency services just can't cope.
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Now you're getting somewhere, the K.I.S.S. method. Less components, no chance of differential drive in servos causing problems, less weight and less space taken up as well as lower power requirements.
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Foredeck fife rail and galley flue fitted. Apparently the plans were drawn by someone with little knowledge of square rigged sailing. In general a square rigger would never have the wind more than a few degrees afore the beam unless lying at anchor. With this in mind the top of the flue should be aimed forward for the wind to draw the smoke but the plan calls for it to face aft like the exhaust on a Mack truck!
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The rudder head and tiller are done. The main mast pin rack/aft boat cradle support is done. With the dowel ends on the boat cradle the instructions call for you to drill 3mm holes into the end of each 4x4mm beam, dreamin' I chose to spin up the dowels in the lathe and centre drill them with 1mm holes to accept brass wire as a dowel and drilled corresponding 1mm holes in the ends of the beams. Much more doable! I'm not sure the pillars on top of the pin rack should be white but it just adds a bit to it, don't want it all red.
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Waste deck grating, great cabin sky light, anchor bitts, foremast pin rack and boat cradle done. I have to say that these are far and away the best grating components I've ever used!
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Next was the oars, I chose to only make 4. The instructions call for you to drill 2mm holes in each end of a block of 3x3mm stock to insert the oar shaft in one end and the handle in the other. I have learned from experience that using a conventional twist drill is likely to split the stock so I used a 2mm slot drill (used for milling, resembles a drill but with a flat end). By using an edge finder I set the machine vice to centre the hole with the help from some scrap stock glued to the vice with C.A. to ensure repeatability. The boat is done.
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I've made the oarlocks and fitted out the boat. I decided to do the oarlocks in a run just by filing the profile then cutting them off, seems to have worked well. That being done I was able to finish painting, decorating and varnishing the boat.
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On the subject of space, would you consider making the hull a bit fuller below the water line. Maybe start out a bit flatter before rounding up for the top sides. She will have a fair bit of weight above the water line so a little extra buoyancy and equivalent ballast might be worthwhile.
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If I understand what you're saying then I can see station placement in that drawing. Although the cross section seems very stubby. The station lines are numbered 1 to 23 and immediately below that sketch is a horizontal line intersecting the vertical grid and numbered 1 to 23 right to left. The only things missing are stations 8, 9 &10 but I assume they are the same as 11. All you have to do is sort out if the side view is drawn 1 to 1 or has been shortened to fit the page and by what proportion.
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Interior is painted and floor boards are in, yet to decide if I'll varnish them but I'll probably leave them bare.
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I've clearly been busy enjoying my new surrounds and haven't done a lot on the model, and to be honest the last few months have seen me not in the right mind set for this build but I thought it was time to have a bit of a go. I've decided to build the ships boat and again, the kit needed improving because the floor boards would have been way too high so I changed the way it goes together and will be sanding the floors down further to reduce the floor board height. Also it is supposed to be double planked in 0.5mm planks, not easy to get a good fair flow over only 6 molds so I opted for a single layer with filling to fair it inside and out. Exterior is done, interior next. Oh and the top rail is to be made of 3x2mm stock, this would equate to a rail 141x94mm which is way too big for a 6.6mtr boat so I'll come up with an alternative.
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The model looks magnificent, well done on the rib fit out. And now making 1700 trenails to replace the 1700 screws that replaced 1700 screws. there's nothing quite like the tedium of model making is there? It's like tying the ratlines on a tall ship. I find it good for calming the head.
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The lines of that boat are sheer beauty! You're a braver, more determined man than I. I know you'll succeed with this but I'll wish you luck anyway.
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Keith, you're like me. You built the engine which will be hidden because you can and you know it's there. So do we and it's brilliant.
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I found those diagrams interesting but as a rower I have some different ideas about it. When rowing with others, ie a boat with 4 oarsmen, you come to learn how the physics have to work. If the oars are already on the power stroke before entering the water you're wasting stroke power and putting undue stress on your body when they take up in the water. Ideally you need to learn to engage the water just as the power stroke starts so it's a much more pronounced plunge into the water than a gradual arc. This way the effort ramps up quickly as the stroke starts, more oar in water = more effort, but doesn't come on after you start the stroke if that makes sense. The return stroke should be pretty flat, why waste effort raising the oar through an arc? The power stroke should also be fairly flat once the blade is fully immersed, diving deeper wastes power. So I would suggest that the diagram of the movement of the oar handle is actually closer to the desired movement of the oar blade. Keep the directional arrows as they are but swap catch and finish, flatten the top of the stroke a bit and you've got a practical rowing stroke at the blade of the oar.
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I probably can but for aesthetics I'd rather a single piece. It's the inner trim on a red cedar dash board, it surrounds the instrument panel.
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Looking really good Michael. I've been using some yellow cedar lately, as the inlay strips on the deck of a ski boat that was started in 1964 and never finished. I've got two bends to do in pieces 6mm x 12mm and the radius is about 30mm or less. That's been interesting. I'll try with more heat gun and see how it goes.
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