Dziadeczek

I always use holly for my decks - it gives this very light, almost eggshell color. Once I used beech, I remember - for its speckled texture, perfectly imitating oak (in scale). Boxwood is also OK (pricey, though) It depends on how you intend to show your decks, if you want them to look new, use holly, if darker, use other fruit woods, pear or even apple... You can see on the attached pics how my decks look like next to cherry hull planking, on my recently finished model of the French 74 gunner of 1780 (from Boudriot). For finish, I use one layer of Danish oil, applied with a brush and let it dry (but tung is also OK). It will slightly darken and accentuate the color of the wood, but after a while it will nicely fade.

Does anyone know a US distributor of the Polish "Shipyard" cardboard ship models? Thomas

From my personal observations of various ships, I can say that in the real world the shipwrights were less rigorous to adhere to a strict 3 or 4 butt shifts, like it is shown in various books. They were using, what was available at the moment in their yards, at the same time trying to save on the wood. So, rarely you can see these strict patterns in the real ships. In my opinion, you can safely butt shift your planks observing rather loosely this 4 butt shift, if you want it (also, the bigger the ship, the bigger the shift, e.g. the Victory and alike would have a 4-butt shifts, perhaps the Constitution 3 butt shifts , a smaller frigate or a brig 2 butt shifts, and so on... PS: Also, check out this discussion:

You made them the right way. Gratings consist of two different strips of wood. Thicker ledges ('toothed' ones) and thinner battens placed in these teeth. Important thing to remember is that the ledges should run athwartship (from bulwark to bulwark) and the battens should run parallel to the long axis of the hull, - as seen from the top, and not the opposite way. Here is a short article on the topic: Improving Basic Details – Getting the Gratings Right | Ship Modeler I once took a pic of the underside of the USS Constitution's gratings, where you can clearly see this "gaps" you are referring to... Thomas

Awesome and exciting project! Make sure though that you have enough room in your house to display the model! Just because your garage is big enough doesn't necessarily mean that there is enough place in your living room to house this monster! I made a similar error deciding to build a French 74 gunner 1780 after J. Boudriot, in the scale 1:48. Just enough room in my workshop, but after nearly 20 years of fiddling with it (I am a v. slow builder!) I found out that my living room is barely big enough to display this monstrosity! Also, such a scale almost demands to build everything nearly exactly to the original, no simplifications and omissions! The question is, do you have enough time and interest (and appropriate materials) to persevere to the end? It would be almost a tragedy to stop the construction somewhere in the middle due to overwhelming difficulties with obtaining materials and simply due to loosing interest and burning out... I keep my fingers crossed for you! Thomas

Wow! How did you waterproof your models? Thomas

Thanks. It probably is called in Polish "płyta pilśniowa" - compressed wood dust...

Is this wood or cardboard? (The edges are so perfectly cut, sharp and even, that it is difficult to tell the difference...)

After my hip replacement 6 years ago, I was recovering from this trauma for 6 weeks, doing a lot of physiotherapy and exercises and swallowing tylenol. One day, I was able to walk for 1/4 mile without a cane and the following day I went shopping with my wife! Patience!!! Everything will be OK!!! Thomas PS: If anybody faces the prospect of hip replacement, I think that you should rely on an orthopedist that specializes in knee/hip replacements ONLY! These people have enormous experience (they do 4 or 5 of them daily!) and know what they are doing, unlike "regular" orthopedists, which do everything and nothing! Experience counts, like in shipmodeling! 😁 The 'anterior approach' for hip replacement offers less complications and faster recovery, by the way...

Showing results for 'windlass'. - Model Ship World™

Michael Kammerlander long time ago gave detailed instructions on how to easily bend as well as edge bend wooden strips for planking, using luke warm water and his specially designed hot iron (or easily modified regular soldering iron). There is no need for boiling water, ammonia and some complicated gadgets to accomplish this! The whole thing is bloody EASY!!! His article was printed in a long defunct now magazine "Ship in Scale". (I could theoretically scan those pages for anyone interested, but here is a short video on how it is done by Mr. Kammerlander himself). (the video is lousy quality wise, and he is talking German, but you'll get the gist...).

Sweet! That full size lathe takes awful amount of space in your small workshop. Besides, it won't be very useful for small size, precise works for shipmodeling etc,; replace it with something smaller, IMHO. Whatever is available in the UK..., Sherline, Taig, Proxxon...

IMHO garboard plank should end much shorter, approx. where the red arrow points. From there the rest of the planks should run more or less like the red lines show (do precise spiling there). (You might have to install a stealer or two, if necessary).

Sometimes knee pain on the same side as the hip prosthesis, is a referred pain radiating down the leg from the operated hip. I remember I had it for some time after my hip replacement. It went away eventually... It is important to keep with physiotherapy to maintain the muscles healthy and strong (prevent contractures and atrophies there) but in the beginning please don't weight bear on them too much, rather only flexing and extending the joint in the bed or standing and holding the side of a chair while doing the movements... This also improves the local blood circulation and hence speeds up the healing process. And keep swallowing the pain pills from your doctor... I wish you a speedy progress and recovery. Thomas

deck beams

It's here (PDF file): ColonialSchoonerSultana.pdf What's the problem?

Perhaps it is made from silk?

As you noticed, Imai is long gone, unfortunately... 😞 Replaced by another Japanese kit maker, Woody Joe - check their offer, perhaps you'll find something interesting for you. Many years ago I built a model from Imai - their "Osyoru Maru" (Oshoro Maru) - a brigantine, research vessel from the Hokkaido University's department of Fisheries. I got this kit as a gift from a friend from Japan. Cute little project, very well designed and easy to understand, even though the instructions were only in Japanese. Recommended for a beginner with some experience with his hands.

I don't know D. Dressel's book, but I first learnt the planking technique from the brochure by Jim Roberts "Planking the Built-Up Ship Model". Basically, after you VERY PRECISELY! installed the wale and the garboard strake (make sure they are perfectly symmetrical on both sides of your hull), you proceed to determine the runs of your battens (very thin temporary glued wood strips). If you chose three spaces (two battens), that's OK. Very important is that they run symmetrically on both sides, along the entire length of the hull, and equidistantly to each other. In other words, the spaces between the battens should be the same, and not like you say, one is 52 for the top space, 66 for the middle and 52 again for the bottom space! All spaces should be 52 (or something else, in your case). Reposition the battens. I assume, these measurements are for the edge of a middle frame/bulkhead, the one that is the bulkiest. Do the same for the remaining bulkheads, taking precise measurements in between the lower edge of the wale and the upper edge of the garboard strake, taken with either a strip of paper or dividers, and then divide the distance into three to obtain the width for each ellipsoid space - for the corresponding bulkhead/frame. Do this for ALL frames, make a pencil mark on each frame and finally connect them all into a curve delineating the run of your batten. It is easier to do it, than to explain it... 😬 This method is foolproof, if you do it precisely. Hope this helps, Thomas

When I took this pic, there were no sails hoisted, hence the absence of a foresail tack on the boomkin.

I am not sure if this helps, but...

I built my first ship model more than 30 years ago - Billing Boats "Norske Love" only with Elmer's Glue All white glue and today it sits there, still intact. My latest, scratched French 74 guns after Boudriot, I built using Titebond Original. I'll let you know after another 30 years. 😁 I think, both are good for wood, at least for our purposes. Titebond II and III are for waterproof applications, II - for water resistant and III - for waterproof (if you are building a floating model, for RC etc.)

I don't know much about the Hemingway's Pilar yacht, but in my opinion, if you intend to completely cover the hull with planking, either wood will be OK. Especially, good quality plywood, like Baltic plywood has great stability. If, however, you want to only partially plank your hull (Dockyard style model or similar), you do not want to show the layered edges of your bulkheads made from plywood, and in this case - use solid wood, any of the hard fruit woods will suffice, eg. cherry, apple, pear, plum, but also maple, birch, beech, etc. If your pockets are sufficiently deep, go full blast for boxwood or even some, more exotic species, peroba, etc.

dupuytren's contracture treatment - Google Search

I heard there is non-surgical treatment for this as well...