peewee

Yes I am happy to post.

Some more painfully slow progress.  
 
Question, i am at a stage when I need to stain/lacquer the wood, what do people use in the UK for a natural look that won't yellow.
 
Will be speedier from here on in.
 
Cheers



 
 

Some more painfully slow progress.  
 
Question, i am at a stage when I need to stain/lacquer the wood, what do people use in the UK for a natural look that won't yellow.
 
Will be speedier from here on in.
 
Cheers



 
 

Well i can not believe its been almost 4 years, but i suppose having a little one will do that.  
Enough of the excuses back to the slowest build i have ever done
 

Well i can not believe its been almost 4 years, but i suppose having a little one will do that.  
Enough of the excuses back to the slowest build i have ever done
 

Well i can not believe its been almost 4 years, but i suppose having a little one will do that.  
Enough of the excuses back to the slowest build i have ever done
 

Well i can not believe its been almost 4 years, but i suppose having a little one will do that.  
Enough of the excuses back to the slowest build i have ever done
 

oops, ignore me, just looked ant them again.

oops, ignore me, just looked ant them again.

Thank you for all the responses, looks like my hunch was correct, scroll saw first and only if required a band saw.
 
cheers

Thank you for all the responses, looks like my hunch was correct, scroll saw first and only if required a band saw.
 
cheers

The micromark looks like the Seig that i have my eyes on from ArcEuro here in the UK, nice machine

The micromark looks like the Seig that i have my eyes on from ArcEuro here in the UK, nice machine

I put a macro lens on to get this pic.  It is still a test without any sanding.  The turned portion is about 5/8" long.   The challenge will be to make five identical posts.  I taped the scale drawing of the post to the lathe tool rest so I can try for a similar profile, and after a few more tries, I'll probably settle on the final shape.   I found it's better to work close to the collett end...not the middle of the piece where there is some flex with such a small square stock.  Maury

thank you all, might add sherline to the mix, though not common this side of the water

thank you all, might add sherline to the mix, though not common this side of the water

What Bill said!  Having both Scotch and a little Irish in my family I'll just relay what my Grandfather used to tell us. "You're Scotch enough to get out there and make it, and Irish enough to get out there and spend it."  

Jig for drilling treenail holes
 
At the last SMS-NJ Echo Cross Section workshop the topic of treenails came up. Specifically, how to drill the holes without breaking the drill bits. I use solid carbide drill bits from Drill Bits Unlimited. Carbide bits are very sharp but they are also extremely brittle and the slightest sideways pressure will snap them. I always use a drill press with these bits.
 
A number of people asked how I manage to drill out frames in a drill press without something getting in the way. My answer is that I built a little jig that my drill press sits on that has an arm sticking out beyond the edge of the workbench and that's what holds my frames when I am drilling. This first photo is of the jig itself. The back section is the exact same size as the footprint of my MicroMark drill press.
 

 
The next photo shows my drill press sitting on the jig. With the MircoMark drill press I can rotate the head 360 degrees and in this case it is rotated 180 degrees. For safety sake I use two heavy steel alignment squares as counterweights on the drill press platform. The things circled in red are bits of wood that are shaped in such a way that they make alignment easier. In my shop I always paint little things like this red so at the end of the day they don't get swept into the trash. In this photo I have a piece clamped to the arm. This piece is a half round piece of dowel. It's used so that curved pieces can sit on it and touch nothing else.
 

 
In the next photo I have a piece of wood that is the exact width of the keel. I clamp this to the arm when I am drilling the holes through cross chocks and 1st futtocks.
 

 
Here is a floor sitting on the keel sized piece ready for drilling.
 

 
The next photo shows how I drill through the futtocks and chocks. I brace the back with a block of wood, position the piece to be drilled, and then slide another small piece of wood up against the piece to be drilled. With everything clamped in place the assembly is rock steady and I don't need to worry that it will rock while being drilled and snap the drill bit.
 

 
I find one of the easiest things to do that adds to accuracy is having good lighting. This next photo shows my light setup. I use small but very bright LED lights that attach to my tools using strong rare earth magnets. They have a goose neck so I can reposition the light as needed. Here is the link to the light on Lee Valley's website.
 

 
The last photo shows another view of a frame ready to be drilled. You can see how the arm extends beyond the base of the drill press and how the frame is positioned on the arm and is held in alignment by 2 pieces of wood clamped to the arm. You can also see how well lit the field is and you can also see my heavy counterweights. It is important to make sure you have adequate weight on the back of the drill press to make sure when you pull the handle down you don't pull the entire drill press into your lap.
 

 
I have two frames complete (Deadflat 0 and 1) and I hope to get two more done this weekend. Time will tell. In the meantime I hope this explanation of how I drill holes for treenails will be helpful.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Upper deck planking installed.  I'll simulate subtle treenails put a coat of matte poly on and ready for the next installment.  Next to getting the chocks in the framing, this section was the biggest challenge.  Learned more and got more patient.
Maury

The ledges are done.  Those that land on the arms take a great deal of care to get all the angles correct.  The hatch frame is not attached yet.  I made the waterway by cutting a bevel from a sheet on the Byrnes saw, cut to approximate width and thicknessed on the Byrnes thickness sander and finally cut to final width.  I then ran the piece over the blade set at a 1" cut several times to bring the one side to the 3" thickness.  The planks are 3" x 10".  As the planks line up, only two or three will need minor tapering.  Figuring the planks closest to the enter line / partners takes special care where the pumps come through the deck.  I still have to decide if I install the hanging knees behind the aft beam.  If so, I will extend the planking to the edge of the knee, not the beam.  Any thoughts?
Maury

Druxey & Greg, I sectioned the hanging knees on the aft lower deck beam.  Since the ceilings only go to the frame, the knees would really just hang out there.   I think I'll just omit them.  Thanks for your comments!   Test fitting the deck planking around the partners carling.  Using the pattern again to line up the elm tree and pipes.  I'll caulk around the holes (with wood putty).   I think this is as good as a fit I can manage.  Cutting an octagonal hole is a challenge.  Thanks for all the "Likes".
Maury

Below are pictures of sanding the bevel in a carling and an early test-fit of same.  Sanding, test fit, sanding, test fit until it is flush with the beam.  For the carlings intercepting the beam arms (at an angle), I mark the angle and cut that first, then cut the bevel with a chisel.  The opposite square end is then cut to size and sanded to the bevel.  All the carlings are installed.  Now on to the ledges.
Maury

well i made a start, a few days away from making sawdust though
1x cherry planking
2x pear framing
1x sycamore-don't know what for (forgotten)
1x maple decking
also bought a chuck for my lathe, was fed up not being able to centre the lumber
and a couple of proxxon blades for the fet 
 
i may purchase the brynes sander for crimbo
 
 
 
 

Cheers
I like the idea of the carter stabaliser wit an 1/8 blade. To me this appears to remove the need for a dedicated scroll saw

Hi All
 
Just a quick update as i did some work today in order to test out the new Byrnes disk sander.  so I made the gratings up and cut and sanded some planks to length.  I was not disappointed.



I also came across mikeaidanh build log of this kit and I have to say i am impressed  located here