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olliechristo

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Everything posted by olliechristo

  1. olliechristo
    Adding 15 hrs to log
  2. olliechristo
    Hi all, thanks tom and John, I agree, I thought it sounded good too.you're a wealth of info "ringbolt" a rod or pin on cathead... Just need to figure exactly how. And I assume a nice coil of rope on the same point.. Well I moved onto masts. my masts have been a pleasure to work, I'm not sure of the timber but quite hard and glad I chose to use them.. I ended up.going for a water based 'stain and gloss' in one product.. I have used Cabot's many times and always been happy.. One thin coat and like product claims, it still shows grain and touches up easily.. All in all very surprised the masts were not a drama to fit with the new caps I decided to make.. The supplied were a bit short skimpy so got the black bean out and got all the dimensions spot on for a nice fitted glueing.. such a nice timber to work for the fiddly bits me old blackbean.. They are straight and running true with each other and I'm feeling kind of excited gang :) Still struggling to type on my phone, with internet coming soon I can check on all of your builds... Regards Oliver
  3. olliechristo
    Yeah I've seen it.both ways, and I did have it like that.. It shows false sleeve hole, maybe that's why some do it.like this.. I see your point, it wouldn't operate well coming from underneath.. Ollie
  4. olliechristo
    ...
  5. olliechristo
    Thanks guys, helps heaps and makes much more sense now.... So I figured I should start on some minor rigging and have done up the catheads and anchor ropes... Wouldn't surprise me if there is some inaccuracies but I'm pretty happy with the result. I hope my anchors are sitting right.. I need to figure out what to tie off to considering I.have omitted the bitt heads.. Should I.just.add a cleat at bow where bitt would have gone?? last picture shows the kit diagram. Regards Oliver
  6. olliechristo
    So my first question regarding main masts and top mast and how they join.. Now the mast caps fitting... One hole is square and one round. Wondering if.top of main mast should be made square to fit or just checked into the mast at caps... Regards Oliver
  7. olliechristo
    Thanks so much gang I have been planning masts and have shaped the bowsprit.. I have tidied some blocks, jeez they are a bit rough. But I can't throw everything out can I.. only thing I can't tidy is some of the holes are way out, but they look okay when all done I think . Added hooks to a couple for anchor and such.. I decided tonight after two ales I shouldn't do any work tonight, I feel thats my limit, else it all gets messy Eamm, my mess was evolving nicely, did a tidy up today and settling into the work zone.. It's ok. Mast questions coming soon... Thanks for looking all.. Regards ollie
  8. olliechristo
    Thanks everyone.. I decided to tackle these cleats... Made up five after work.. About an hours work.. I had some 3x2 walnut and it suited for a uniform stock.. I basically just Cyano glued them to the stock walnut as a template and used a sharp knife and filed and dremelled.. Pretty happy with the result... Added two to the stern davits. Small steps... Ollie
  9. olliechristo
    Thanks so.much.gang Eamm,. I'm doing that pointy out front thing. I.think it's for jousting... Delving into more unknown territory... Rigging! I tapered the bowsprit and fitted into.the.groove at bow. Trying to.keep the angle low. Instructions say.about 5 degree rises.. Ollie
  10. olliechristo
    Also fitted anchor ropes to windlass and most deck.work is done now. Regards Oliver
  11. olliechristo
    Also got my pump done,.was all shiny brass so I acid washed and blackened and buffed with steel wool and clear coated..
  12. olliechristo
    Thanks so much gang. Yes tom learning lots.! So I forgot about hours tally.. Adding 50 hrs approx. I have my skylight done. The panes work out to about 5-6 inches scaled up. I decided to use some 2mm glass I had. Looks ok and I know it won't yellow or become brittle as plastics may over time.. The metal bars equate to 0.1 mm at this scale so a detail that has to be left off I think. Regards Oliver
  13. olliechristo
    Thanks so much John and tom. I like the simple design.John.. Would the metal bars apply to.this design? Regards Oliver
  14. olliechristo
    Very nice. Looking real sharp mate.. You did a good job bending that stern piece.. Not surprising it took a few times.. Regards Oliver
  15. olliechristo
    Alistair.. No to the last statement.. you're a great help mate.. I think you could be right about the era... I think I need to do more searching..or as you said someone will know.. Cheers..
  16. olliechristo
    ...
  17. olliechristo
    Like this looks nice
  18. olliechristo
    So I've started on my skylight. Made.the carcass. I've been looking forward to making this. I really don't don't like the cast windows, so another scratch component coming up. The first picture is what kit supplies and instructs. The second two are pictures I found that I think are more like it should be. Please advise me if you think they should be otherwise.. Regards ollie
  19. olliechristo
    -Thanks Dave I was lucky. -Lol, S.Coleman. I would love to build a human size ship.. -Eamm. I can spare a bit of river for you mate, postage won't be cheap but -Thanks as always tom -Cheers John
  20. olliechristo
    So a bit of a man cave update,.I got home from work.thinking I would get into it.. Turns out my.ship has sprung a leak!! The house that is.. It's built under a deck and the design to keep water out is failing. Luckily nothing got ruined. I would have gone wandering off sobbing in the forest , it's been one of.those days.. Oh well.soldier.on. Moved my.stuff. There's a river under the room. :-/ Ollie
  21. olliechristo
    Thanks Bindy.. Decided I might just use supplied dowels, when I think about it none of the timber in this ship really matches what the original would have been.. I can see why kit supplies gunports, they were a nuisance to make but I'm sure they would be much easier second time round. But jeez I take my hat off to those that make a hundred or so of these.. You have extreme patience. Im happy with the result, they will stay in any position by themselves but I will need to add ropes to act as operating setup.. Ollie
  22. olliechristo
    Gunports hinges have to be painted much neater on my timber side. I could have made hinge mounts more realistic but I want them movable and as strong as possible.. I have them prepared no worries. It's the glueing on that usually stresses me..... I.need to figure out the purdening for anchor rings, um spelling!? For anchors and I have 1mm black cord but that looks like it might be a bit big.. Regards ollie
  23. olliechristo
    Thanks for all the suggestions likes and compliments as usual. It helps me keep momentum.. After looking at the Tass oak closer. I can see the grain is too pronounced really.. Still deciding. Great advice from all.. Some of you may have noticed I used left over copper plates to make my hinges, and some brass safety pins shafts. I like the rivet details, nails would have looked too big and have to be short as port lids are only a few mm thick.. I have been sending the copper surfaces with a fine foam pad and then black enamel.
  24. olliechristo
    Oak is on the right
  25. olliechristo
    Wondering what you lot think about masts. The supplied dowels are very pale. I.picked up some Tasmanian oak. It's a bit grainy but I don't want to stain so leaning towards oak.. Feel free to cast your votes

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