Aussie048

Hello,

after a short break with the Model Making I make the gunports lid on the port side.
Here is a photo. I hope you like ist.

Hello Grant,
 
thank you for your nice comment.
 
The gun port lids from the starboard side are now completed.
Here are two pictures that show how they look on the model.

 

 
To be continued ...

Thank you gentlemen for your kind words.
 
Today I will show to the gun ports lids a special detail.
The lids in the area of ​​bugs are doubled for protection from the anchor with planks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
To be continued ...

The rudder, gudgeons and pintels have been installed.  We'll be adding some additional photoetched details to the hull next, including the sweep port hinges.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Greetings to all,
Mark, Tim, Pete, and Bindy thanks for looking in on my build and for the advice, motivation, and/or kudos. You all inspire me to continue giving my best and looking for ways to improve myself.
I thought Woody blended in too well (like a ninja), into the surrounding ship and decided to paint him so that he could stand out a bit. I decided to also get started on the aft quarterdeck and framed the QD beam by adding the carlings and ledges, and planking the port side of it. I’ve managed to start on the entry steps but still have to get started on the fenders. I also started on the gangway in order to best determine how I would go about making the brackets. I will be honest with all of you and confess that soldering the brackets was not my cup of tea and I did a little research on line and came across a web site (http://model-ship-plans.com/Campbell/Deck%20furniture.html ) and it explained that gangway brackets were made with either iron or wood. Since I am not too savvy on soldering and I have already incorporated plenty of wooden knees on my Triton, I decided to make wooden brackets for my gangway. The following photos will show how she is starting to look.
On a side note, whenever I place Woody on board the Triton, I tend to forget he’s there and move my ship from place to place, hence Woody falling to the ground a lot (I believe he may be a little suicidal, what do you think?).

Greetings to all,
I went ahead and added the ladder to the lower deck and made and installed the platform for the port side lower hold area. The next step is to make the ladder in order to have access to the platform where the fresh water barrels will be stored. So far, everything has been constructed in terms of inches and/or millimeters. While everything was made according to measurements, one cannot truly appreciate scale. Keeping this in mind, I decided to make a wooden man in order to get a better feel as to the size of the Triton. At 1:48 scale, a 6 foot tall man would be 1.5 inches in height. I went on line and searched for male dimensions to make certain that my effigy of a man would be at the correct proportion, hence the birth of “Woody”. I’ve placed Woody at different areas on the Triton and I am truly surprised at how large these ships really were. The following photos will show you Woody standing near certain elements on the Triton as a means of seeing how everything compares to a 6 foot tall man.

Hello Everyone,
Sorry for the delay since my last post. I didn’t have a lathe in order to turn my canons and was contemplating how to go about making them. Well I happened to go to the thrift store here on Fort Huachuca, AZ and was able to buy a lathe for $75.00. The only problem was that it did not have a faceplate but she still purred like a kitten and decided to buy it anyway. I was able to get a faceplate for it at Wood Craft for $30.00 and now I have a complete lathe capable of turning the canons. The next step was to learn how to use it since I’ve never owned one and all I had was a concept of how it must be used. Well I decided to turn a canon at twice the size the plans called for in order to get comfortable with it and I’m happy to report that I was able to make my first canon. I also made the carriage for the canon and added all the eyebolts and rings for it.
Since I was feeling comfortable, I decided to go ahead and make the three canons at the correct scale for my Triton. I also made the carriages for my canons with the exception of adding the eyebolts which I will try to do tomorrow. I went ahead and emulated my mentor by painting my carriages red but leaving the quoins natural in order to have color contrast. I also made the gun deck stanchions and added them into place. The following photos will show you what she is looking like along with my first try at the canon.
Cheers,
Raymond

Well I'm moving along with my solution to the frame issue. After innumerable and painstaking measurements, finding that the tops of some frames didn't conform precisely to the plans and weren't level from starboard to port, I decided not to try to achieve perfection. I decided the best way to proceed would be to just make sure the sheer of the deck line (ie the tops of the frames) was nice and smooth, not radical and not bumpy, and looked much like it should. If I could achieve this I wouldn't worry that at various points the deck sat a few millimeters to high or low compared to the plans. After viewing both sides of the ship I decided I would take the starboard side as my starting point, and the center frame would be the low point as it should be. I was surprised to see that of the 14 other frames, only 3 or 4 needed shims or a bit of sanding to give them the proper (or a good) sweep. I think the tops of the frames needed to be slightly beveled anyway to account for the upward curve of the deck from its midpoint to fore and aft. After making these adjustments on the starboard side, I then needed to level them to the port side. I thought this would require cutting or shimming almost all of them but found only about five needed it. And they were all the aft frames. So I have proceeded to shim those on the port side. I've put on the beams and deck without gluing or pinning, and I think its pretty good. There are two frames that still need some radical shims which I'll quickly apply today. Then I'm going to just take a deep breath and nail down that sucker of a deck.
 
I'm looking for advice on the best way to hold down the deck while gluing. And what type of glue is best to use in this operation. Instructions say to work from bow to stern. If I use PVA glue and put it on all beams and frames at once, then start pressing down the deck from bow to stern, I think it will take so long the glue will be too dry when I reach the stern. But there will be no way to reach into the ship to apply glue to the beams when the deck is on (ie working progressively). I'll be able to reach the frames to glue the tips, but not very far into the beams. The weights you can see in the pictures below work pretty well. Using those I could probably work quickly enough to glue all the frames and beams and position the deck and then place the weights on, giving me time to pin it in "springy" spots. Any suggestions? Do most of you apply glue across the beams?

Not much of an update but a few thing are done, finished mounting the false timberheads, got the aft stowage boxes veneered, and started making the waterways.

Those are going to be fiddly, filling and fitting around the timberheads, pics follow.

Bob, my best friend, and most educated and most interesting among all people I know is electro - engineer of high class ( electro projects and supervision of building of industrial objects about 500.000-1.000.000 m2). So, I was just joking
 
But, when he resolves some home installations in my office, I cut my veins ... Same thing he said when I work over his real estate documentation and trade contracts ...
 

 
 
 
 
It was close. As I mention earlier, He have picked up fleas somewhere, and ... whole house was upside down by disinsection, He was bathed couple of times, and He was lucky, if even one single flea remain, He would be shaved 
 
This days and couple of next days I shall not have any news for you about Her Majesty
 
On some way, moving is starting ...
 
But, to move in office to certain room in house, first I have to move out Hothead and his studio from this room
 
To move Hothead to his room, first we have to make desk for him
 
To make a desk for him, I first have to bring home two old desks from office and to separate all parts
 
And entertainment begins a week ago with endless projecting ...  ( engineers ...)
 

 
And endless discussing about project ... 
 

 
In Friday, project was finally done, and I started with demolition of furniture in one office room,... and moving it from down-town to  my home , and  and making space in Hothead`s room for new desk (including removing 5 wall shelves, rearranging furniture and installations, ......
 
Sunday, early went to carpenter to cut parts, and both try to understand cutting lists Hothead have made ( Hothead did not come with me, because political disagreement with carpenter - He did not learn still to separate politic and business) 
 
Ok, this was done, back to the garage,  first to rearrange desk to mount big vise, find somewhere my bench plane, then couple of hours banding 1000000 slices, and then join and glue them together, with several jumps to hardware for missing parts (which were not in project ...  )
 

 

 
Bob, not bad for attorney, I think ...It is not my first furniture I made ... 
 
In the evening, went to mentioned friend to celebrate his daughters Master degree in Economic ( until 03:00 )
 
In the morning ... Admiral engaged bulldozer crane to get me from bed ... 
 
And then move this all to the second floor, then mounting, and here is first look at future desk studio
 

 
This is, as Hothead said,  the most important part ( ...) -  standing for mixing board. I screwed up cutting, so some modeller experiences must be applied (masking of mess I made)
 

 
Deadly tired after full two days of carpenter job. This morning, instead 06:30 I woke up at 09:30, even is a regular working day ... . Did not even hear two repeating alarms beneath my head ... Admiral was deep frozen too ( all day cutting grass from whole back and front yard ...)
 
What is youth ... Hothead works all day with me, and at the evening, simply went out with friends, while I was unconscious on couch watching TV ... "Star Trek - into darkness" begins, I watched first 10 minutes and insensibly fall to sleep ... Admiral waked me to move to my bed, where I couldn't sleep because so much tired ... 
 
And show has just started ...
 
So, Her Majesty must wait a while ... in workshop and in garage is complete chaos made from different tools, wooden parts, cables, jack screws, drills, grinder, sandpaper, glues, iron, hand tools, everywhere extension cords  ... as every time I work similar job ... and I need almost a hour to clean it up ... and carpenter works are far away to be finished ... 

One more plank to go on the starboard side of the deck. If the waterway there looks a little ragged, that's because it is. I glued in a plank that was too narrow and proceeded to munch up things a bit getting it out. Here are some pics.
 
Steve

Before I begin this build of Krick's Alert, I'm going to do a little research on this cutter. I ordered
       "The Naval Cutter Alert" by Goodwin. It should be here in a couple days then hopefully I can get a better 
        look at this fine cutter, meanwhile I've taken a couple pictures of the box and  parts.
 
        This is a German kit, so the instructions are in German, but they do include a sparse English version,
        but that's no big deal, If I get stuck, I can always ask Dirk . He did this same kit and did an amazing!!
        job on it. (as usual )
 
        Anyhow,here's the pictures
 
 
 
       
 
 
 
       
        One thing I wish Krick would've done, is to roll the plans instead of folding them.
        It's really a bummer when they do that.
 
 
       
        I noticed that the keel is ever so slightly tweaked, I'm going to set the bulkheads in temporarily
        to see if it will pull it in .
 
      
       
        I have some box wood strip That I had purchased from Jeff when he ran a special, so I 'll
        probably use that instead of the supplied stock ( depending on the finish I decide on )
 
 
        
 
 
        
         Here again , more than likely I will up grade the blocks and yardage with Chucks products.
         I purchased the sale set as an extra. After seeing it I'm not so sure I like the fabric, it seems a little on the heavy side, I don't know, maybe it's
         just me, but that's along way off.        
 
         Frank

Thanks Patrick. I am happy with that solution, since they will be painted anyway. If I ever try to build a model in all natural wood someday, i will be in real trouble. 
 
I am going to add the vertical and diagonal knees to the gun deck walls. I am not sure if these were in the 1812 version, but here is what they look like on the current ship. There is a vertical knee under each beam and the diagonal knees meet between the beams, probably at a carling (if that is the right term). Since I won't have any carlings, I will just have them end under the spar deck planking.
 

 
I made one from some 1/8" basswood sheet to use as a template for the rest:
 

 
I made this template a little thinner than the knee I wanted, because I have found in the past that once I trace it, it gets fatter in the end, so by starting smaller, it should come out close to the right size. I used the template to trace the shape onto some basswood sheet that I cut close to the correct height.
 

 
I traced these so the curved edge was always on the short side of the blank, so I could use the blank as a handle when sanding it. I cut off the excess with a razor knife, which left a nice triangular piece that I put aside to use to make the quoins for the gun deck cannons.
 

 
I then used a Dremel sanding disk in the drill press to sand in the curves:
 

 
I cleaned up the knee with small files and some sand paper.
 

 
Then cut it away from the blank with the razor knife:
 

 
I got into a good rhythm and was able to crank each one out about every couple of minutes, so it took less time than I thought it would. And here is how it will look as a vertical knee:
 

 
The trick is getting them all to look similar, so here are the first 10 or so and I think they do look similar:
 

 
And here are 33 of them, which is getting closer to the number I need, but not there yet. And the triangular waste pieces too.
 

 
Tonight I will figure out exactly how many I need and finish making them, then start attaching them.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I wanted to test fit the cannons I bought from Model Expo to make sure they fit in the gun ports, so I assembled one of them and did a quick test. These did not come with instructions, so I basically just fit a support piece between the two side pieces for this test cannon, but the real ones will have a small tapered piece and a front support piece instead. I also just used some 1/16" square wood for the axles, but will use wider pieces of wood in the final version. I made a jig to hold the side pieces up while I glued them to the axles. Here is the test cannon from the jig:
 

 

 
I rounded the axles to fit the wheels and just slid the wheels onto them for now:
 

 
When I put this cannon onto the gun deck I could see that it was about 1/8" too low. This made sense to me given that the bulkheads as supplied by ME are at the height of the gun deck after planking, but I had reduced the height of the bulkheads by 1/8" to account for the 1/16" of the gun deck support piece and the 1/16" deck planks. If I had just planked the deck without lowering the bulkheads, these cannons would fit fine or be close.
 

 
My first idea was to add more height to the axles, but that would only get me another 1/16" or so without looking awful. I then looked at the supplied gun carriage sides and realised that I could cut them in half without hitting any of the notches, then I could add a 1/18" by 1/16" piece to make up the height difference. I did this for two sides and after sanding them they looked fine.
 

 
I glued them up with the axles and support piece, added the wheels and this is how it came out:
 

 
And here it is in one of the gun ports. It fits nicely and more importantly, the barrel comes out straight so I can (hopefully) line them up with the dummy cannons that will be in the other gun ports.
 

 
Here is a comparison of the stock cannon (right) and the modified version (left):
 

 
I was lucky to have some extra cannons to experiment with. At some point I will make up the 16 cannons that will be rigged on the gun deck, but I have a lot more work to do to get to that point.

Here are a couple of updates. I'll show the interior wall planking of the gun deck in this one and the experiments with the gun deck cannons in the next one.
 
I planked the insides of the gun deck walls using the same 1/8" by 1/16" planks that I used for the deck planking. I started with two full length planks at the bottom of each side. I mixed up some off white paint and painted the bottom planks before installing them, although the color looks very similar to the basswood itself.
 

 

 
Those clothes pins held the planks very nicely in place while the glue dried.
 
I then cut three short planks for between each of the gun ports and glued them in. I made them slightly longer than the span between the gun ports and will clean up the gun port openings later. These plank ends will be flush with the gun port openings, where as the outside hull planks will leave a slight gap for the gun port lids to fit in.
 

 
The next plank up was a full length plank, then I had to make shorter planks with either notches for the deck beam ends or cut to fit between the deck beam ends.
 

 
I ended up gluing the upper planks directly to the edges of the planks below. I really did not need the little supports I added for these planks before, as they really didn't support them. I did add a thin strip from the outside onto these upper planks to tie the top three together to give them a little more strength. These strips will be hidden when the outer hull planking is added. I cleaned up the gun port openings from the outside using some small diamond files, after cutting some of the excess plank ends with an X-Acto knife. I still have a little more cleaning to do from the inside to get the corners more crisp. I only had to do a little sanding of the interior planks, which I did with a riffler file first, then taped some sandpaper to the end of it and used that for the final sanding. Here is how the starboard side interior looks so far.
 

 

 

The finished stern for now - I'll fit the three remaining Lights much later in the build, as they will be in the open position and may get damaged during further construction :
 

 

 

 
The Pilasters are of similar design to the Quarter Badge ones :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks again Druxey, David and John.
 
Quarter Pieces
 
The Quarter Pieces on most Swan Class Sloops are elaborately carved, but the sheer plan of Vulture shows very plain ones. Whether this is correct or not I don't know - perhaps the draughtsman was just lazy . I've treated them in similar fashion to the Pilasters of the Quarter Badges and Stern Lights.
 
To overlap the joints between the hull planking and counter planking I hollowed out the pieces :
 

 
Some progress pics through the stages of fitting them up :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks Andy, yeh this is the fun part tangeling with pesky cant frames that don't want to line up, had to remove one side of frame 3 as it decided to move position while the glue dried!!
 
Here is aft cant pair #4 installed, just need to install the temp spacers.
 
Ben

Just few pictures what I did in last days
 
Dražen

Does anybody have a photo/drawing/shetch of the construction of the partner under the capstan on the upper deck on Vasa?
Cannot see clearly from my photos how this has been done.
 
There are just different ways how to do it...
 
Dražen
 

Build log part 9
 
 
 
this is the last part of this build,
 
although the are some Little things I would like to add, or to Change next time I open the glass case
 
 
 

I was quite happy that the glass case fitted exactly on the wardrobe it is Standing on
 

the brass data plate is fitted within the case
 

Impression of the plating bow area
 

and Stern area
 
 

this Position is concentrating, nearly interfearing on railing, funnel stay, steering chain, Davit tackle, but all is properly fastend to it own tackle point
 

foredeck is a nice Meeting place for Young couples
 

 
 

foreseen anchoring place
 

the depth marking is made with regular Mirosoft Excel and to be printed out on one side adhesive transparent foil, or on Photopaper. Shall save this up to the next opening of the glass case, when the sternlight is also to be changed from green to White.
 
 
 
I hope the presentation of my Bohuslän build log was liked, even though the framing, planking and hull building was not shown in this case due to lack of photos
 
Auf wiedersehen
 
Nils

Build log part 8
 
 

the horizontal steering Segment is made from a clockwheel of on old mantel clock. Belaying clamps on lower deck railing fitted
 

Sven is just inspecting the starboard inflatable liferaft Containment. Here for Popeye..., slotted turnbuckles for the aft mast shrouds
 

Davit and lifeboat rigging, wooden oar sets to the boats
 

Position of the stairway from lower deck to bridgedeck. Right bottom Corner... the drainpipe opening on deck
 

here the steering chain leaving the wheelhouse can be better seen
 
 

the upper deck was designed in the way that the stair and its rail as well as the entrance (door and its Frame stay Standing when the comlpete upperdeck is removed. Because I made a static model of it the upper deck is now fixed on with two small hidden screws
 

the riveting gives the real 1914 look... to the hull
 
 
 
 
Build log part 9 (last part) tofollow with next post....
 
Nils

deadeyes and futtock shroud hooks

yards with foot ropes

Continuation
 
Gun carriages for models No. 1 and No. 2 assembled.