Aussie048

After a couple of evenings whittling and sanding to shape the new hawthorn catheads are now down to the correct size- only dry fitted at the moment till i finish the stern- grrrr nights getting darker so alfresco modelling in the evenings is nearly over- i do all my sanding outside if i can help it. New catheads deffo look better than the ply one laid beside them.

Keith
 

Some tests with the rudder attachement.
 

 

 

Here's my new rope coiling machine gleaned from that great forum on rope coils. Also a few examples of my first results. They'll get better the more I make.

And thank you too Geoff and Jason.
 
Cross Trees
 
The Cross Trees are the Top supports that run athwartships. All the work in cutting the rebates was done on the Byrnes saw, and the tapers were done on the disc sander :
 

 

 
  Danny

After the Annual Family Labor Day Weekend Camping Extravaganza, I could not wait to get back to work , I started by finishing the hem in the Foot of the working Jib and 150 % Genoa , I then added the North Sails logos ( On boats I have owned, if a sail needed to be replaced I always Bought from North Sails )  I then turned my attention to making the Keel . I started by buying a fishing weight that was close to size and weight. . In this case I needed to add extra to the trailing edge of the bulb. I then wraped flat brass around it and attached it to the Keel . next I added the side pices of the Keel enclosing the Brass, in the center .  the entire Keel was put together with West Sytem Epoxy. I gave myself alot of material , so that I may obtain the corect Keel Foil Shape . Here are the results

Thanks once again for the kind comments Tony, Nils, Spyglass, Hjalmar, Mark, David, Christian, Remco and Steve, and all the "Likes". Always appreciated.
 
Mast Cheeks
 
The Foremast and Mainmast both have Cheeks fitted to each side of the mast. These extend from the top of the Hounds to about 3/4 of the way to the deck. The Hounds are incorporated in them at their top - something I'd always puzzled about in previous builds, but now have become clear .
 
First the mast had to be narrowed to accommodate them, all the way to the top :
 

 

 
Next I tapered the cheeks to the same width as the flats on the mast, half-rounded them to the bottom of the hounds, and cut in the scarf joints for the Bibs. As the bibs are thinner than the hounds the scarf joints were cut in to their thickness :
 

 
The bottom of the cheeks were shaped into a "duckbill", with the inner face scalloped out for the last couple of millimetres :
 

 

 
Filler pieces were then glued to the masthead and tapered :
 

 
A tenon for the Cap was cut into the top of masthead at an angle. In real practice this was done to prevent the very heavy cap from tilting down at the fore end :
 

 

 
The lower Woolding Bands were made from thin card. They measure 0.8mm wide by 0.3mm thick. The wooldings will be added when my next stock of rigging thread arrives, and an upper band will finish them off :
 

 
  Danny

Bibs
 
The Bibs were made next and fitted. As with everything else on the masts the sizes are all proportional to the mainmast :
 

 
The Mizzen Mast has a very abbreviated pair of Cheeks :
 

 
Trestle Trees
 
The Trestle Trees took quite a bit of working out to get them spaced correctly. Unlike the earlier volumes of TFFM there are almost no detailed scale drawings of the various parts needed for the masts, and everything has to be calculated :
 

 
  Danny

About 6 months ago I splashed out and bought a sparmax 610 compressor (with air tank) and a sparmax DH-103 airbrush to go with it. Initially I thought I had wasted my money as I struggled to achieve a consistent result. I persevered and now I love it. I totally agree with Jay, air pressure and paint consistency are the key factors. When I began, I was mixing my paint way too thick and the result was splatters, clogging and lots of swearing. Consistency of skim milk is pretty right, I thought it would be way too thin, but it isn't. I mix my paint 50/50 with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and clear windex. I use about 20psi pressure. You have to do 5 or 6 thin coats for best results but now I always get a smoothe result. The best thing is that you can still clearly see the Wood grain even after half a dozen coats - something I really like. I am currently using admiralty acrylics which give great coverage. The only thing else that I would add is that if you are working indoors, you may like to consider purchasing a mini spray booth. I got one from eBay for around $100 AU. It folds up into a little case that is easy to store. It has a retractable power cord and a flexible exhaust hose that can be wedged into a window. It also comes with a turntable. See pics below.
 

I made a piece of timber that fitted into my sash window. A slot was cut into it to insert the end of the exhaust hose
The hose is then connected to the spray booth and inserted into the slot in the board.
]
This spray booth works really well in exhausting overspray.

The filters are cheap to replace (available on ebay)



The whole booth packs away into a small case
and is easy to store

Right added most of the centre items and guns on the lower deck.


Bow end.

Then test fitted the middle deck to line up with the lower deck.

This with a bit of weight to make sure all seated well.

Also lined up loose the next deck gratings and capstans, plus the masts,(very Important).

Loose fitted the poop deck to check fit.

Also added the siren messenger and bowser ropes.




Very pleased with it so far.


Foxy

Hi Keith.
 
Not sure yet, if I do it will be on the middle deck, the lower gun ports will be closed after lots of debating on this part of the build.
 
Having pictures of the progress and enjoying all of the aspects so far, also to stop any damage as the bulge at this point of the ship makes it easy to course a mishap.
The base was next to sit the ship safely.
A friend of mine who makes things out of wood( bowls etc) has come up with a very nice piece of wood,''at a very good price too'.
 
The supports are from the kit and just sprayed.



Next I worked on the bow end with manger and messenger posts in place, will be using Syren ropes for this part from the main capstan through the bits to the hawser exit point.

Also roping the guns at this stage for the 32 pdrs.

Fitted one end dafi's etch parts.
To line the ropes up I made a jig.

Out of odd plastic bits and clamped to the table to work on.
The 32 pounders ready to place on board.


Made more support posts to make up the pillers holding the next level, this simply with a vice and dremel.



 Some of the other items  for the decks.
You will also note that I am using brass and plastic for the cross supports, the one's that come with the kit are more than useless with this type of build.
More soon.

foxy

Thanks JP. yes that is very usefull and will have a go. just painted and sealed while I get on with other things handling the ship. Will come back to that later.
 
Lots of little items on the go.
Making the bilge pumps, used dafi's etch and some scratch items.

 

 

Note double blocks also being made,' got to keep busy you know'.

Painted main pumps and placed.
Found the heads were to small in scale ,so rebuilt them.

 

Next it was the channels these from Daniels experience need widening at the bow end by at least 3mm.

I added for all of them, but was put right by Daniel on this.
Here's my mistake, but put right now,'Phew'.

Next was to build the tiller.

Using evergreen plastic, Dafi's eye bolts and Syren blocks.
 

 

They work too.
The blocks that is, but will not once fitted.
 
More soon.
 
foxy

Next it was the bumble bee effect, or chequered pattern .for this I used Life color paints for the dark and Admil paints for the yellow.

 

 
Then a coat of matt varnish to seal.
 
Working on the lower deck I made some false boxes for the orlop steps.

 

Added steps later.
 

 
foxy

Some other pictures of other parts on the go.

Making the block and tackle for the guns later on, this using the 2mm Syren blocks single and double, they work too .



First glue one side. Add dafis hooks.






Next its the double blocks with longer tails.

foxy

Moving on from the last pictures of the mast's, now I can test fit as I go along.

Then its back to the lower deck.

Hanging knees was the next thing, using coffee sticks I acquired from my visit to California last year.

After painting white, fixed with PVA to existing wood sides and painted all white.




Both sides done, its on to decking out this deck.




More soon me thinks.

Foxy

 

Here's my fifth and final version of hammock stanchions. They seem sturdy. They'll have to hold top lines and nets.

I have gotten a lot done since the last update...
 
The topside planking is now complete and the treenails are finished as well. I also have completed the stern fascia and counter, including scribing the vents. Finally the waterline was marked and the bottom airbrushed, starting with a gray primer, followed by white and then finally Polly Scale Aged White, which has a nice "tallow look" to it. 
 
Now on to the quarterdeck. 

Well between vacation and a busy work schedule it has been a few weeks since I posted. In the meantime I managed to complete the outer hull planking below the wale. Using the Hobby Mill boxwood was such a pleasure. No walnut splintering, cracking and poor surface, and no size inconsistencies. I will NEVER use kit outer walnut planking again. 
 
Now its on to the topsides above the wale (which needs to be repainted due to some a few glue drips during planking...). 
 
Then I'll need to stock up on some spare #76 drill bits to get the treenails done on the outer hull. And yes, I'm going to cheat and not treenail below the waterline where you'll never even know if it's there or not! 
 
 

Here is a photo of my Red Dragon by A-Latina,
the model has taken me two years,after a little illness.

Wonderfull work, Mark
 
You are inspiring my imagination ... Have you read "Song of Ice and Fire" ... Nagga`s hill, temple of Ironborn, made of ribs of Nagga, dragon from ancient time
 
Something like that
 

 

 
 

Hi.
its been a while since I last posted a update.. Sorry.
WOW thanks for ALL the likes
 
Here we are starting the painting of the hull.

much easer with Antony holding my hand

 
Painting  first blue done

 

 
Some of the deck fittings. Discarded the metal ones and made wood parts.

 
Side strips were painted then guled into place on the hull. much easer for me.

 
Masts are made and will be fitted next week.

 
Close up of the deck. I planked inside the Bulwarks as there was nothing in the instructions.

 
Thanks for looking in.
Regards Alex.

Hi.
Many thanks four likes and help.
 
I have glued the decks into place.

Not forgetting the holes for the Masts.
Then trimmed the excess decking off.

Antony made up some small doors to add onto this.

 
Next I added the bulkheads between the deck levels.


Antony was not happy to use the timber suppled with the kit so he made up the bulwarks with plywood.

We used brass nails to hold the bulwarks in place while the glue dries.

Antony says we can file the heads away later.
 
Thanks Alex S.

Hi.
 
I am 14 and I am a electric wheelchair user and I am not very strong.
My carer will be doing all the physical work like lifting the glue and cutting the timbers.
I wanted to build a wooden model ship like my carer Antony UK.
We started the black pearl but the magazines arrived for the first few weeks then nothing so I cancelled the subscription.
I have just bought this from Cornwall Model Boats.
The Black Queen.  http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mamoli_MM60.html

It's the Mini Mamoli series and it's a beginners model.
Solid hull is a nice way for me to start.
My carer said that I should do a build log so it might help other people to build this model.
That's enough about me
 
 
 
Opening the box

The contents.

The small bits.

And the timber.

The Hull.
 
The instructions are quite poor considering that they need to be interpreted by beginners model..
Trying to read through the instructions.

 
 
Starting the build.
I sanded the hull being careful not to sand the edges that are deck level as I wanted these square.

I then added a strip of 3X3 on the stern to give the correct angle. No 3X 3 supplied.

Next I have cut the planks to length. The instructions ask for 15 mm long planks for the decks. I made them 25mm long.

Planks that are 15mm long and 3mm wide don't look right.
Next I added the deck edges. Only 2 as seen on the photo.

This allows me to overlap the edge of the deck with the planks.
I will trim this later after the planking is complete.
Then add the other edge strip.
 
The Planks were glued to paper in the correct pattern with PVA glue.

 

I will be doing a little bit each day during the holiday.
 
Alex S
 

Got a bunch more rigging done this summer... hopefully this post isn't too picture heavy.
 
I decided I'm gonna redo the flags because I rushed to get them up and the edges are frayed from when I cut them.
 
Pictures are bigger if you click them.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is my first build ever, which I've been working on for a looooooooooooooong time now. I've had so much trouble building this thing, and I'm not 100% satisfied with it, but I think its turned out pretty well so far.
 
I've finished basically everything now other than putting the sails up. I lost a bunch of pictures I had of the progress of the build, so I don't have nearly as many pictures as most people here. Since my older pics aren't great I'm only posting pics of where the build is at now. I won't finish any more for a while since I'm going away to school tomorrow. Hopefully I can get something done around xmas.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Further to my build i have enclosed a photo or two.