Aussie048

Alle Jahre wieder (Every year again), also known as "every decade the dafi manages to finish something" ...
 

 
... my small slice of in between meal is served  ...
 

 
... and lives ...
 

 
... while you can hear the chant "By the deep 17" ...
 

 
... the lieutenant and his midi are listening carefully ...
 

 
... and whisper it further with the speaking trumpet.
 
In the same time the crew ...
 

 
... with her own calm ...
 

 
... and sangfroid ...
 

 
... brings up a new rope.
 

 
And as the story was so great, here the whole picture :-)
 

 
Now only missing a new passe-partout and some good pictures,
 
cheers, enjoy and have fun, the dafi

More timber added to the stern and made a start scratchbuilding some replacement catheads to replace the ply ones from the kit- someone gave me some hawthorn branches to chop for firewood and decided to use some of this- been seasoning in the shed for 12 months till i found a use for it!


Ply catheads on the left

keith

This shows my multi tool table saw, made from scrap I had around the shed. The flexible shaft sits in a groove on a hinged block to set the depth and has a locking block screwed on top to hold it in place. I have put a mark on the block to line this up each time I set up. The mandrel is from a small drum sander has a small washer each side of the blade to keep it a bit more rigid. The top was screwed on then I turned on the power and raised the blade to cut through the top.
 

 

 

 

Have been making a bit of progress again. Have a few more pieces in place.
 

 

Still, I succeed to spent a hour in a workshop to make another hinge
Here is process for dummies as I am
 
You recognize this part of folder with mechanism ? New appedix for Captan Steve topic  !!! 
 

 
Cut as much as possible to dimension you need to be in scale. You will correct later to the right dimension
 

 
Shape around needle to get space reserved for soldering
 

 

 
Shape whole thing to future look and test it to get right longitude
 

 

 
Get holes for rivets on place. I use my 40 years old school divider - made of solid and good steel, and I saved this as tool I use more than 40 years
 

 

 
Not align piece jet ! First clean another surface with Dremell tool of excess of material which appear after making holes on opposite side of piece 
 

 

 
Now align, and wide a little holes to the dimensions of future rivet you will use
 

Solder needle to the prepared place. I use needle, it fits to my needs
 

 
Cut needle on one side, and with Dremmel tool remove excess of needle and carefully and slowly, shape width of piece to the scale. Really slowly and carefully. This I found nice tip how to track your microscopic work: First, round corners. And when you star to thin piece, half of circle on corners start to change shape, and by this you can know you successfully thinned piece. Measure to the drawings as much often as you can
 

 

 
Make another part using same method
 

 
Solder another part, and take care about excess of heat, don't allow to un-solder first part
 

 
And Ta - da - da - da  !!!!! ( fanfare in background) 
 

 

 
At the end, hinges are between 1,5 and 2 mm wide, little more than in scale ( about 1/4 mm), and that is really much for me. From distance, this all look as it is 100% in scale

Thanks again John, Vivian, Michael, John and Greg - your comments are always appreciated.
 
Bridle Port
 
Looking through the above pics I realized I'd forgotten to mention the Bridle Port. This port is the foremost one, and is quite a bit different to the gunports. It's main function was to assist in attaching the tackle to the anchor when it broke the water so it could be stowed. An ancillary function was to provide ventilation below the foredeck which houses the galley, the manger and in some ships was used as a recovery area for sick or injured crew.
 
Unlike the gunports the bridle port is hinged horizontally. It's construction was otherwise similar to the gunport :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Sapphire, I bought my kit locally from Float A Boat in Ringwood. Their website is terrible, but they are a really friendly bunch. Much more friendly than that Modellers Shipyard guy.
 
http://www.floataboat.com.au/

My big fat fingers and hands are worse than an enemy's broadside.....While rigging my guns, I knocked off a port davit. I must have given it a good shot since the davit was heavily pinned as well as glued. Two steps forward, one step back.

Thursday 28th August 2014 is officially the big day.  For good or ill, I am now a model shipwright. 
 
As tends to be the case in my house, the plans are always more ambitious than the reality, so my work area is not ready.  I am due to move into my "workshop", which in reality is the second bedroom, on Monday now. 
 
My wife did not quite manage to remove all her sewing equipment, but don't think of me as being mean to her, she volunteered because she also has the sunroom set up as her hobby workshop and there are no other rooms left in this little house.  To further slow proceedings down my daughter has an exhibition to attend in Brisbane over the weekend so today she also arrived for a short visit and moved straight back into her old bedroom, the soon to be whorkshop. <sigh>
 
Impatient soul that I am, I promptly moved a spare folding table from the shed to the living area and got out the cleaner and rags.  What you see below is a loosely assembled collection of tools, glue, paint and sandpaper and of course Model Shipways' Phantom.
 
As I'm an early riser (4am to 5am avg) and everone else in this house sleeps as late as they can (9am or later) I expect most of my work will be done in the quiet, early hours.  I may be in for an earlier start than usual tomorrow though, anticipation being what it is.

Preparing the bow
 
Had to do a bit of thinking on how I want to proceed with the bow as I couldn't get comfortable with the kit approach to attach the bowsprit.  This basically has the bowsprit sitting in small recess in the keel former, and although no-one has taken issue with this I wanted to revisit it.  Another problem also came to light s part of this process.  The rake of the bowsprit on the plans is less than that suggested in the AOTS book (~17deg on plans vs ~20deg in AOTS), doesn't seem much of a difference but its enough to cause the bowsprit to interfere with the figure head.  Further review highlighted another discrepancy, the AOTS book clearly shows the top of the bowsprit appearing through the top deck at the bow.  The bowsprit dimensions also appear a little odd on the plans, being made from 10mm dowel, but reduced to 6.5mm at the saddle, that doesn't seem to match the AOTS book either which shows the bowsprit thinning but only after the saddle and not the same degree.
 
So, considering all this I decided to allow the bowsprit to be seated more securely through the hull (as per the original) and tweaked to alignment to ensure it clears the figurehead.  Not sure exactly how I'll do this but should have some options now.
 
Bow arrangement with the slot for the bowsprit

 
Hole drilled in forward bulkhead and bow shapers adjusted to allow bowsprit to feed through

 
Bowsprit arrangement being examined by Captain Stirling, balsa wood bow filler also installed but not yet fully shaped.

 
....and also, planked the false deck with maple simulating planking per the AOTS.  This will not really be seen that much but it was a good chance to see how the maple would turn out.  I didn't like the supplied Tanganika at all, it looks paler than I've seen before, which is fine, but has a lot of brown 'flecks' in it that look really out of scale and a little odd.
 

Rabbet at the Bow
 
I really want to make sure that the lines will be as accurate as the kit will allow. Because the keel comes in piece, it was a little challenging to visualize how this would come together.  You will also notice that I have taken a rather drastic step of cutting off the stem - this will eventually be replaced with boxwood.  There are some shaper pieces that will be added in due course.
 
Drafted 3 lines onto the keel to allow any preliminary rabbets and shaping to be done before bulkheads are installed.  
Outside line represents the outside shape of the hull, I took this shape from the rabbet profile in the AOTS book  by copying and enlarging to scale. This is not wildly different from the plans but it was important to me to get lines as accurate as possible recognizing the plans don't reconcile 100% to the pre-cut keel.  This also needed to tie in with the rabbet already established in the bottom of the keel. Inside line reflect my best estimate of the inside edge of the necessary rabbet based on the shape of the bulkheads (using the rear edge of the bulkhead as the guide) The middle dotted line is the best approximation I could determine on where the outside edge of the rabbet needed for the first planking should be.  Given the first planking is 1.5mm limewood, and the second planking 1mm thick, the dotted line represents the curve 2/5ths horizontally from and the outside rabbet edge and 3/5ths from the intererior rabbet line.  Its an approximation but hopefully close enough to make the planking gosmoothly and replicate the true hull shape as best I can.
 
Keel shaped based on previously drafted lines, relationship to the bulkheads can be seen.  These have not yet been shaped, but the forward edge will match the inner faring line.  This will all the fine tuned once bulkheads are installed.

 

I hated covering that beautiful hull with primer. But it's one of those decisions that a modeler has to ultimately make sooner than later, like paint or not to paint. There really was no decision for me, although I loved the look of the wood, this is the Victory and there are two models that to me almost require painting and the Vic is one of them. But of course, this is also determined at what juncture you are modeling the ship for.

Planking of the hull is pretty much finished, now it's more fit and finish of the hull. Here comes the rasp, file, palm sander and good old fashioned sand paper and elbow grease hahahahaha.
 
Mike

I have the display board all finished off and ready for the Vic, when she gets a tad further along. I know it seems a bit premature for a display base, but I believe the sooner you get a model mounted, the better for you and the model. AL supplied a work cradle for the Vic, which I will used up until I get her coppered. But once coppered, she will be mounted to the board after that and the base wrapped in wax paper just in case of any glue droplets getting on the display board.
 
I may also add a support block toward the middle of the display board on either side of the model as added support, which will help during transport as well as construction. Those two brass pedestals make me a bit worried about supporting that much weight.    

I found a dress makers tracing wheel that I will use to dimple the copper tape to simulate rivets. I had one years ago, but when I got out of modeling, I didn't think I would need one again so I gave it to someone, probably a dress maker:). I had one years ago that I made from a watch gear wheel that gave an even tighter pattern, I wish I still had that one. Once the hull is completely planked, I will sand it down with several grits of sand paper, then last grit will usually be 400. I usually then spray a clear laquer or poly over the hull, making it smooth and gives the copper tape something to stick to besides saw dust and raw wood. 
Attached Thumbnails

Okey, here is an update. I have determined that either I got a bad cut kit or they are all this way, but of all the model ships I have built, this is the first kit that I have had to shim better than half of the bulkheads while planking just to get them to run true without any dips in them. Planking is getting rather exhausting after laying a couple of planks, checking them and then having to go back and shim 3, 4, or 5 bulkheads in a run. I feel like this kit is fighting me every step of the way so far. I'm just short of calling this kit a dog. But I'm not far from it. I'm missing the Mainsail and the foresail, although I have the full accompaniment of sails (19). Artesania Latina used to be one of my favorite manufactures for those lower budget kits, but after spening over $500.00 for this kit, which a bit more than I have ever spent on a previous kits, I'm beginning to wonder. 
 
The white or natural wood color is the shims.
 
 
Attached Thumbnails

Thank you Remco, John and Allan.
 
OK Remco - you asked for it :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
There are four supports Allan. They work fine at the moment, but as I get into the smaller sizes I'll remove a couple of them and replace them between a couple of the existing ones. BTW - this jig came with the Masting Package.
 
  Danny

Right to scale !!!!!

And rudder can move

This is "dry" test before mounting. One of this days I ll explain whole process

Deadeye tackle on the mizzenmast shrouds
 
 
its the first time I`m making use of deadeyes instead of turnbuckle shroud spanners. Having to look for the right thread diam. in relation to the deadeye sheaveholes, so the rearside counterknot at the beginning  does not rush through the the predrilled hole when tightening the tackle.
 
The deadeye spacing distance is made repeatable by using spacer two easy removeable clamps after the zeising is put on the upper deadeye shroud cords
 
 
Nils
 
 
 
 
 
 

All 22 cannons have now been rigged aboard! Now, I have to neaten things up a bit and then see if I want to add rope coils or not. At least I added blocks and rings on the cacabels whereas Constructo just used plain rope.  
 
My Admiral just stopped by and commented, "Boy, they sure had a lot of guns!"

Thank you Michael, It's been alot fun making the parts for this one 
 
Thanks Omega, she does have that speed boat look
 
Thanks Geoff, she's coming together, I am almost finished making all the parts , then I will make the Keel and Rudder Blades, She will see water soon
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Bob, I mean folks

This is democratic forum and everybody can read on his own way

Some testing on way to make hinges ... obviously it can be smaller and thiner. Yesterday made - removed
 

 

 
I am afraif I am not able to make them more smaller or more thiner. Maybe in next life
 
And here I discover earlier wrong reverse turn of moves. It is impossible to glue hinges on rudder and to make imitation of rivets. Glue dont catch to varnish. So, there have to be real nails, and some more testings have to be done

After a unexpected but welcomed interuption, I was able to get back to work, I started by making the Turn buckles ,I then Painted them Flat Black, I then Made all the Secondary Winches for the Cockpit.Next, I turned my attention to finishing the Streering stations, I srarted by making the pedestal for the Wheel, I then decided to make the Wheel out of Wood ( as a test & it worked )  I then Painted the Bases Grey, the Railing and Wheel center Red, The Pedestal and wheel rim Flat Black, with the center of the Wheel being White, Nothing at this stage has been Glued to the Boat , The Fishing weight is still being used to hold up the Communications Tower, I am very please with how she is coming along. Here are the results

Thank you for dropping in again Remco, Nils and Ben .
 
Lower Masts
 
Sometime soon I'm going to need the Masts for alignment purposes to go ahead with fitting the deadeyes to the channels. Up until now I've "made do" with a couple of "dummy" masts, but now it's time to make the real things .
 
I was lucky to buy one of the last of the Masting Packages for the "Swans" from Hobbymill about a year or so ago. As usual, Jeff's timber and packaging is EXCELLENT - there are TWO pieces supplied for every part needed in case of "oopsies" (I've already made one ).
 
The masts (and just about everything else) starts out as square stock - no dowels in this lot, that would have been counter-productive . Following usual practice for making "round" masts from square stock I marked out two sides with the taper required. I've also tapered the masts below deck as per the original. The pic below shows the marking out for the section between the Partners and the Heel :
 

 
After tapering these two faces with a chisel and sandpaper I marked out the other two and tapered them as well. Then I marked out each face for the edges where the "octagonalling" would finish. I cut the tapered square section into a tapered octagon using a "V" jig and a sharp chisel :
 

 

 
Then I rounded the octagon using a sanding block, and cut the lower tenon into it :
 

 
The Mast Head remains square for now - much more work to be done here later :
 

 
Fore and Main Lower Masts fitted to the ship :
 

 
Note - I had to make two Main Masts (the oopsie mentioned earlier). I'd made the main mast a bit too thin at the partners on the 1st one and wasn't happy with the result. Just as well that Jeff had supplied plenty of timber .
 
  Danny