jre8655
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jre8655 got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Bluenose by jre8655 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:100
I pretty much have to say that at this point my build of the Bluenose is finished. There is nothing else I can do except put it on the shelf and admire the finished product.
All the pieces of the display case were cut at our community woodshop. That kept all the sawdust out of my garage and house.
All the parts were tested to see if everything went together as planned. I had to make a small adjustment to the groves in the base, but other than that it went together nicely.
Here is the finished build. There really is nothing else to write down. I will post some photos in the Gallery of competed models.
Note the nameplate holder. The USB Flash Drive with my complete build log, resource material, and all photos is encased in the box built into the holder.
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jre8655 got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Bluenose by jre8655 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:100
I present, for your inspection and critique, my completed rendition of the Canadian Schooner Bluenose.
I tied the last knot at 1730 hour MST this evening.
Just to add a bit of authenticity and acquire official approval of the model, I asked my neighbor to come over. He, being from Canada, inspected the model and gave me a thumbs up.
From start to finish this has been an adventure. I am very pleased with the Model Shipways Kit and the quality woods and especially the building manual. Granted, there are a number of improvements that can be made to any kit, but overall this is a well thought out product.
I’ve learned to bend and shape various woods, sew sails, and above all patience!
My next step is to complete the display case and mount the Bluenose.
To all of you that have followed this build and provided instruction, and inspiration, I thank you.
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jre8655 got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Bluenose by jre8655 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:100
Tying Ratlines is slow and tedious. My assistant seems to have abandoned ship!
Using the jigs I constructed, the Ratlines are going in evenly.
It’s taken me 10 days to complete the Port Side.
I’m switching my jigs over to the Starboard Side now and hopefully will have everything completed within the next week.
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jre8655 got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Bluenose by jre8655 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:100
The time has come for the tedious part of the build. The Ratlines! This is probably going to take me longer than I am anticipating, but I want to make sure that at this stage of the build I don’t do something that is going to detract from the overall appearance of the model and I sure don’t want to damage any of the other structures or rigging.
I used the jigs I made for the Deadeyes and glued a horizontal guide to them to provide uniform spacing for the Ratlines.
I did a little research, both here in the forum and in two of Lennarth Petersson’s books on rigging, to get an idea of just how to properly tie the Ratlines.
I have also secured the expertise of a Ratline expert. He assures me that he is the one that put the “Rat” in Ratline.
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jre8655 got a reaction from cristikc in Proxxon Mini Lathe DB-250 - Opinions/assessments/recommendations?
The support board is 38" x 10" x 1/2" plywood. To the underside I fastened a board 14" x 7" x 3/4" which is clamped into my WorkMate. The extra board on the underside to the right of the clamping board is there for additional support and keeps the entire unit from tipping if clamped to a workbench.
When assembling the DB-250 and extension bed you have to make sure that the two beds align, otherwise the tailstock and tool support will not slide back and forth across the entire length. This was easy to accomplish using a metal straight edge along the side and top of the two beds and either sanding the bottom of the bed and/or adding a shim to the other end.
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jre8655 got a reaction from tasmanian in Proxxon Mini Lathe DB-250 - Opinions/assessments/recommendations?
The support board is 38" x 10" x 1/2" plywood. To the underside I fastened a board 14" x 7" x 3/4" which is clamped into my WorkMate. The extra board on the underside to the right of the clamping board is there for additional support and keeps the entire unit from tipping if clamped to a workbench.
When assembling the DB-250 and extension bed you have to make sure that the two beds align, otherwise the tailstock and tool support will not slide back and forth across the entire length. This was easy to accomplish using a metal straight edge along the side and top of the two beds and either sanding the bottom of the bed and/or adding a shim to the other end.
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jre8655 got a reaction from Archi in Proxxon Mini Lathe DB-250 - Opinions/assessments/recommendations?
The support board is 38" x 10" x 1/2" plywood. To the underside I fastened a board 14" x 7" x 3/4" which is clamped into my WorkMate. The extra board on the underside to the right of the clamping board is there for additional support and keeps the entire unit from tipping if clamped to a workbench.
When assembling the DB-250 and extension bed you have to make sure that the two beds align, otherwise the tailstock and tool support will not slide back and forth across the entire length. This was easy to accomplish using a metal straight edge along the side and top of the two beds and either sanding the bottom of the bed and/or adding a shim to the other end.
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jre8655 got a reaction from Fright in Bluenose by jre8655 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:100
The time has come for the tedious part of the build. The Ratlines! This is probably going to take me longer than I am anticipating, but I want to make sure that at this stage of the build I don’t do something that is going to detract from the overall appearance of the model and I sure don’t want to damage any of the other structures or rigging.
I used the jigs I made for the Deadeyes and glued a horizontal guide to them to provide uniform spacing for the Ratlines.
I did a little research, both here in the forum and in two of Lennarth Petersson’s books on rigging, to get an idea of just how to properly tie the Ratlines.
I have also secured the expertise of a Ratline expert. He assures me that he is the one that put the “Rat” in Ratline.
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jre8655 got a reaction from Nirvana in Thermopylae by popeye the sailor - Sergal - 1:124 scale
Popeye,
I wish I'd seen this build when you started it. I purchased the Thermopylae kit quite some time ago and when I found that the instructions were in Italian I contacted the manufacturer and was sent an English version of the build sequence.
I've attached them for you.
Jack
Thermopylae Assembly Instructions.doc
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jre8655 got a reaction from Omega1234 in Thermopylae by popeye the sailor - Sergal - 1:124 scale
Popeye,
I wish I'd seen this build when you started it. I purchased the Thermopylae kit quite some time ago and when I found that the instructions were in Italian I contacted the manufacturer and was sent an English version of the build sequence.
I've attached them for you.
Jack
Thermopylae Assembly Instructions.doc
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jre8655 got a reaction from Piet in Thermopylae by popeye the sailor - Sergal - 1:124 scale
Popeye,
I wish I'd seen this build when you started it. I purchased the Thermopylae kit quite some time ago and when I found that the instructions were in Italian I contacted the manufacturer and was sent an English version of the build sequence.
I've attached them for you.
Jack
Thermopylae Assembly Instructions.doc
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jre8655 got a reaction from mtaylor in Thermopylae by popeye the sailor - Sergal - 1:124 scale
Popeye,
I wish I'd seen this build when you started it. I purchased the Thermopylae kit quite some time ago and when I found that the instructions were in Italian I contacted the manufacturer and was sent an English version of the build sequence.
I've attached them for you.
Jack
Thermopylae Assembly Instructions.doc
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jre8655 got a reaction from EJ_L in Thermopylae by popeye the sailor - Sergal - 1:124 scale
Popeye,
I wish I'd seen this build when you started it. I purchased the Thermopylae kit quite some time ago and when I found that the instructions were in Italian I contacted the manufacturer and was sent an English version of the build sequence.
I've attached them for you.
Jack
Thermopylae Assembly Instructions.doc
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jre8655 got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Thermopylae by popeye the sailor - Sergal - 1:124 scale
Popeye,
I wish I'd seen this build when you started it. I purchased the Thermopylae kit quite some time ago and when I found that the instructions were in Italian I contacted the manufacturer and was sent an English version of the build sequence.
I've attached them for you.
Jack
Thermopylae Assembly Instructions.doc
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jre8655 got a reaction from mtaylor in How best to cut out bulkheads?
Tom,
I'm not so sure I would try using the drill press/x-y table to cut out the bulkheads. Here's why: it's very easy to turn the adjustment knob the wrong way, thereby risking cutting in a direction you don't want to go.
Now there is another way to do this...use the x-y table to move the cutting tool to a precise location then drill a hole. Repeat this all the way around the section you want to cut out, drilling a series of holes then just cut between the holes to remove the section. It wouldn't be much of a chore to file and sand the bulkhead after that. I've done this with some difficult pieces in the past and had very nice results.
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jre8655 got a reaction from WackoWolf in How best to cut out bulkheads?
Tom,
I'm not so sure I would try using the drill press/x-y table to cut out the bulkheads. Here's why: it's very easy to turn the adjustment knob the wrong way, thereby risking cutting in a direction you don't want to go.
Now there is another way to do this...use the x-y table to move the cutting tool to a precise location then drill a hole. Repeat this all the way around the section you want to cut out, drilling a series of holes then just cut between the holes to remove the section. It wouldn't be much of a chore to file and sand the bulkhead after that. I've done this with some difficult pieces in the past and had very nice results.
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jre8655 got a reaction from Canute in How best to cut out bulkheads?
Tom,
I'm not so sure I would try using the drill press/x-y table to cut out the bulkheads. Here's why: it's very easy to turn the adjustment knob the wrong way, thereby risking cutting in a direction you don't want to go.
Now there is another way to do this...use the x-y table to move the cutting tool to a precise location then drill a hole. Repeat this all the way around the section you want to cut out, drilling a series of holes then just cut between the holes to remove the section. It wouldn't be much of a chore to file and sand the bulkhead after that. I've done this with some difficult pieces in the past and had very nice results.
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jre8655 got a reaction from Canute in How best to cut out bulkheads?
Tom,
I'm not sure if a Coping Saw is route to go. The spiral blades are hard to control and as mentioned are very course. The Jewelers Saw Blades are somewhat expensive and I have found Scroll Saw Blades that are finer.
Several suggestions:
Try using automotive masking tape on the back side of the plywood. It has a very fine grained adhesive and should not harm the wood.
I've used scroll saw blades from Woodcraft that are up to 46 tpi and found they cut very cleanly with a minimal splintering on the back.
Here is the URL: http://www.woodcraft.com/category/PA115-08-01/scroll-saw-blades.aspx?gclid=CKqOz5GY9coCFQoNaQodwj4PiA
And one question. What kind (brand) of a Scroll Saw are you using?
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jre8655 got a reaction from WackoWolf in How best to cut out bulkheads?
Tom,
I'm not sure if a Coping Saw is route to go. The spiral blades are hard to control and as mentioned are very course. The Jewelers Saw Blades are somewhat expensive and I have found Scroll Saw Blades that are finer.
Several suggestions:
Try using automotive masking tape on the back side of the plywood. It has a very fine grained adhesive and should not harm the wood.
I've used scroll saw blades from Woodcraft that are up to 46 tpi and found they cut very cleanly with a minimal splintering on the back.
Here is the URL: http://www.woodcraft.com/category/PA115-08-01/scroll-saw-blades.aspx?gclid=CKqOz5GY9coCFQoNaQodwj4PiA
And one question. What kind (brand) of a Scroll Saw are you using?
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jre8655 got a reaction from mtaylor in How best to cut out bulkheads?
Tom,
I'm not sure if a Coping Saw is route to go. The spiral blades are hard to control and as mentioned are very course. The Jewelers Saw Blades are somewhat expensive and I have found Scroll Saw Blades that are finer.
Several suggestions:
Try using automotive masking tape on the back side of the plywood. It has a very fine grained adhesive and should not harm the wood.
I've used scroll saw blades from Woodcraft that are up to 46 tpi and found they cut very cleanly with a minimal splintering on the back.
Here is the URL: http://www.woodcraft.com/category/PA115-08-01/scroll-saw-blades.aspx?gclid=CKqOz5GY9coCFQoNaQodwj4PiA
And one question. What kind (brand) of a Scroll Saw are you using?
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jre8655 got a reaction from Blue Pilot in Bluenose by jre8655 - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:100
I pretty much have to say that at this point my build of the Bluenose is finished. There is nothing else I can do except put it on the shelf and admire the finished product.
All the pieces of the display case were cut at our community woodshop. That kept all the sawdust out of my garage and house.
All the parts were tested to see if everything went together as planned. I had to make a small adjustment to the groves in the base, but other than that it went together nicely.
Here is the finished build. There really is nothing else to write down. I will post some photos in the Gallery of competed models.
Note the nameplate holder. The USB Flash Drive with my complete build log, resource material, and all photos is encased in the box built into the holder.
-
jre8655 got a reaction from Martin W in Proxxon Mini Lathe DB-250 - Opinions/assessments/recommendations?
The support board is 38" x 10" x 1/2" plywood. To the underside I fastened a board 14" x 7" x 3/4" which is clamped into my WorkMate. The extra board on the underside to the right of the clamping board is there for additional support and keeps the entire unit from tipping if clamped to a workbench.
When assembling the DB-250 and extension bed you have to make sure that the two beds align, otherwise the tailstock and tool support will not slide back and forth across the entire length. This was easy to accomplish using a metal straight edge along the side and top of the two beds and either sanding the bottom of the bed and/or adding a shim to the other end.
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