jre8655

Once I began fairing the bulkheads I realized that there were several places where it would be necessary to add some filler material to achieve a nice roundness to all the bulkheads.  I decided to add filler blocks to most of the bulkheads to get the roundness I wanted and provide a wider gluing surface for the planking.
 
I used some scrap balsa for the fillers.  I have a fair amount of experience with balsa from my days building model airplanes.
 
 
 
 
 
Now it’s time to get on with the planking.
 

Dave,
 
Nice to hear from you.
 
The amount that needed to be removed was very minimal.  I used a small flat file to take off just enough to allow a smooth fit.  There was some play still left between the parts so they could be squared up.
 
As far as the weather goes...I don't think we should say anything.  The rest of the country will hate us.  Actually, if they're watching the nationwide weather reports they hate us already.
 
The keel clamp is great!  I purchased it from Model Expo when I set about building the Bluenose.  I like the freedom the piviot provides.  Just rotate the arm until you get to where you need to work.

This will be my second build.  I completed the Schooner Bluenose (scale 1:100) and set about deciding which ship to build next.
 
Thanks to the Admiral, I have several kits to choose from.  These were purchased over a two and a half year period following my decision to retire…for good.  The Admiral asked me what I wanted to do in retirement and I said build model ships.  I made a list and when the kits came on sale I would purchase them.  I now have nine from which to choose.
 
I rolled the bones and read the signs.  The spirits told me to build the Mayflower next.  Actually, I looked at them in chronological order.  The Mayflower would be first because it was built, date wise, before any of the others for which I have kits.
 
Since the Bluenose was a Model Shipways Kit and seemed to be very well designed, had a good set of instructions, and very good material I look forward to building the Model Shipways Mayflower based on the experience I had with the Bluenose.  I also sought out the build logs that are posted on the forum for this same kit.
 
Opening and inventorying the kit was not all that time consuming.  The parts list gives a very good description of each piece and the way the kit is packaged makes it a snap to find everything.
 

 

 
The four sheets of plans are large (I can see them without my glasses) and quite detailed.  I spent about an hour reading through the instruction manual and surprised at how well the construction is broken down and described.
 

 
Step one was to cut loose the keel.  It came right out and is straight and warp free.  The keel has a Bearding Line etched on the starboard side at the stern.  Using a French Curve I marked and transferred that line to the port side.  There is a Rabbet Strip that needs to be glued to the bottom of the keel from the stern all the way forward and up the bow.  I soaked this strip for about half an hour and clamped it in place to dry.
 
Once this is glued the keel is tapered, along with the Rabbet Strip, to a thickness of 3/32”.  I hope to get all this done before our two year old grandson finds me.
 

 
All observations, criticism, advice, and comments are welcome and encouraged.  I sure don’t consider myself any sort of expert after just one build.
 
So here’s hoping that everything works according to plan…and instructions!
 

Thank you Nils.  I hope to do the forum proud.

Moving on with the assembly process, the gun ports are in place.  There is a Dummy Cannon Support Strip glued into the recess in bulkheads spanning the center of the ship.  This strip is painted black to hide the interior of the model.  I really haven’t decided if I want to build the model with open gun ports or not.  Either way, when the time comes I have it ready.
 

 
The next order of business is the construction of the gun ports themselves.  These are made up from 3/32” square strip.  I made a copy of the section of the plans to use as a template for locating the gun port positions of each side of the model.  Additionally, I made a small jig to make sure that all the gun ports are the same size.
 

 
It is now time to start fairing the bulkheads.  As I began this I noticed that there is some difference in the bulkheads that needed to be corrected.  I added 1/32” thick strips to the bulkheads to give me a truer curve to the top of the bulkheads where the deck will be glued.
 

 
I also added some additional material to the stern bulkheads to make a smoother curve without having to reduce the bulkheads unnecessarily.
 

 
There may be some other areas that will require filler strips.  As I fair the bulkheads I’ll add these as needed.

All the decks are now glued in place and the upper sections of the bulkheads and decks are faired.
 

 

 
I’ve been reading over the instruction manual and delving into some of the other Mayflower build logs for information on planking the decks.  Looking at the plans and the photos in the manual it looks as though the deck planks are laid down in very long sections.
 
I’m not sure what length these planks should be, but I’m thinking of making them about 1.5 to 2 inches in length.  There is an illustration in the manual showing the deck planks much shorter than depicted in the photos.  Any thoughts on this?
 

Moving on with the assembly process, the gun ports are in place.  There is a Dummy Cannon Support Strip glued into the recess in bulkheads spanning the center of the ship.  This strip is painted black to hide the interior of the model.  I really haven’t decided if I want to build the model with open gun ports or not.  Either way, when the time comes I have it ready.
 

 
The next order of business is the construction of the gun ports themselves.  These are made up from 3/32” square strip.  I made a copy of the section of the plans to use as a template for locating the gun port positions of each side of the model.  Additionally, I made a small jig to make sure that all the gun ports are the same size.
 

 
It is now time to start fairing the bulkheads.  As I began this I noticed that there is some difference in the bulkheads that needed to be corrected.  I added 1/32” thick strips to the bulkheads to give me a truer curve to the top of the bulkheads where the deck will be glued.
 

 
I also added some additional material to the stern bulkheads to make a smoother curve without having to reduce the bulkheads unnecessarily.
 

 
There may be some other areas that will require filler strips.  As I fair the bulkheads I’ll add these as needed.

Moving on with the assembly process, the gun ports are in place.  There is a Dummy Cannon Support Strip glued into the recess in bulkheads spanning the center of the ship.  This strip is painted black to hide the interior of the model.  I really haven’t decided if I want to build the model with open gun ports or not.  Either way, when the time comes I have it ready.
 

 
The next order of business is the construction of the gun ports themselves.  These are made up from 3/32” square strip.  I made a copy of the section of the plans to use as a template for locating the gun port positions of each side of the model.  Additionally, I made a small jig to make sure that all the gun ports are the same size.
 

 
It is now time to start fairing the bulkheads.  As I began this I noticed that there is some difference in the bulkheads that needed to be corrected.  I added 1/32” thick strips to the bulkheads to give me a truer curve to the top of the bulkheads where the deck will be glued.
 

 
I also added some additional material to the stern bulkheads to make a smoother curve without having to reduce the bulkheads unnecessarily.
 

 
There may be some other areas that will require filler strips.  As I fair the bulkheads I’ll add these as needed.

I pretty much have to say that at this point my build of the Bluenose is finished.  There is nothing else I can do except put it on the shelf and admire the finished product.
 
All the pieces of the display case were cut at our community woodshop.  That kept all the sawdust out of my garage and house.
 

 
All the parts were tested to see if everything went together as planned.  I had to make a small adjustment to the groves in the base, but other than that it went together nicely.
 

 
Here is the finished build.  There really is nothing else to write down.  I will post some photos in the Gallery of competed models.
 

 
Note the nameplate holder.  The USB Flash Drive with my complete build log, resource material, and all photos is encased in the box built into the holder.
 

I used the time between building phases to get over to the community woodshop and whack out some lumber for a display case.  As Yambo pointed out, I wanted to get her under cover before any dust, or fingerprints from the grandkids, settles on the rigging.
 
I used Poplar for my display case because it was readily available in the sizes I wanted and gives a nice contrast to the darkness of the Bluenose paint scheme.
 

 

 
 
The case is designed to be assembled around the model once it is secured to the base.  The corner rails are secured to the base with brass wood screws and the top is then fitted to the corner rails and secured with brass wood screws.
 
I looked into purchasing glass for the display case, but found it to be very cost prohibitive.  Regular single strength glass is too fragile and would break very easily and tempered glass is outrageously priced.
 
I discussed the use of various materials with a tech at Lowe’s and finally settled on using 1/8th inch Lexan instead of glass.  At least I know it isn’t going to break and it will be indoors and out of the sun so I’m not too concerned about yellowing or clouding.
 

 
A while back I read a post describing some of the ways various builders put little treasures in their models.  As the discussion progressed it was suggested that the build log for the model be somehow incorporated into the display.  There were several suggestions including CD ROMs and then the use of a USB Flash Drive that could be encased with the model.
 
I purchased a number of 1 Gigabyte USB Flash Drives through Amazon and then set about designing a combination nameplate holder and USB box.  This is my final result.
 

 

 

 
The USB Flash Drive, containing all my photos of the build and the complete build log, will be placed into the box and then the construction will be secured to the Display Case floor with brass screws.
 
Once the model is secured to the base of the display case and the nameplate/USB box is in place I’ll assemble the sides and secure the top.
 
This will finish my build log.  My next post will be in the “Gallery of COMPLETED Kit-Built Ship Models” with the finished display case.
 

I present, for your inspection and critique, my completed rendition of the Canadian Schooner Bluenose.
 
I tied the last knot at 1730 hour MST this evening.
 

 

 
Just to add a bit of authenticity and acquire official approval of the model, I asked my neighbor to come over.  He, being from Canada, inspected the model and gave me a thumbs up.
 

 
From start to finish this has been an adventure.  I am very pleased with the Model Shipways Kit and the quality woods and especially the building manual.  Granted, there are a number of improvements that can be made to any kit, but overall this is a well thought out product.
 
I’ve learned to bend and shape various woods, sew sails, and above all patience!
 
My next step is to complete the display case and mount the Bluenose.
 
To all of you that have followed this build and provided instruction, and inspiration, I thank you.
 

Tying Ratlines is slow and tedious.  My assistant seems to have abandoned ship!
 
Using the jigs I constructed, the Ratlines are going in evenly.
 

 
It’s taken me 10 days to complete the Port Side.
 

 
I’m switching my jigs over to the Starboard Side now and hopefully will have everything completed within the next week.
 

With all the bulkheads in place it’s time to start adding the filler blocks.
 
Everything is pretty straight forward with the exception of the Fore Filler Block.  This bit of construction consists of 3 blocks:  1 on the starboard side and 2 on the port side.
 
The 2 port side blocks have a notch cut into the top.  An Eyebolt has to be fabricated and glued into this notch.  The instructions call for the blocks to be glued together and then glued between bulkheads D and E.  Then a hole drilled into the notch at the glue joint.
 
I made the eyebolt, using the 28 gauge wire provided, but cut a slot in each of the filler blocks where the eyebolt was to be placed.  When the filler blocks were glued in place it was a much simpler task to glue the eyebolt in place since the hole was already there.
 

 
The placement of the eyebolt is somewhat confusing because the plans show it facing port/starboard.  The instructions indicate the eyebolt is to face fore/aft.  Be careful with this placement.  The plans are drawn to show the size of the eyebolt, not its proper alignment.
 

 
This eyebolt is shown on plan sheet two and described on page 47 of the instructions as being an anchor point for the Fore Tie and Ram’s Head Block for the Fore Mast.
 
There is still one more thing about these filler blocks that bothers me.  There are no slots or holes in the keel, nor are there any indications or instructions to drill holes for the masts.  I haven’t, as yet, anything in the instruction manual either about drilling holes for the masts.  Anyone have a clue on this?
 

I cut loose all the bulkheads and test fitted them to the keel.  With two minor exceptions the bulkheads all fit very nicely.  Two of them required minimal filing to trim out the slots.
 

 
With everything lining up nicely and the keel is straight it’s time to start gluing.  Thanks to those who posted build logs I followed their wisdom and invested in a container of Legos.  Those babies sure come in handy!
 

 
One of the things I did before beginning any of the actual construction was to read through the instruction manual.  I didn’t find anything about when, or where, to install the pedestals that come with the kit.
 
I realize that at some time in the future I will have to drill into the keel to mount the ship on these pedestals.  I figured that I had better plan ahead and marked the locations for the pedestal screws.  I marked these locations on both the keel and the plans.
 
At this stage of the build I made four reinforcement blocks and glued them to the keel in the locations I marked.  I tried to drill a hold in a piece of the scrap the keel came out of and found it almost impossible to drill a straight hole without the bit drifting out one side or the other.  That’s why I thought it a good idea to reinforce and drill these locations now.
 

 
Legos in hand, clamps at the ready, it was time to start gluing.  This was actually fun!  The way all the bulkheads fit the gluing went fairly fast.
 

 

I cut loose all the bulkheads and test fitted them to the keel.  With two minor exceptions the bulkheads all fit very nicely.  Two of them required minimal filing to trim out the slots.
 

 
With everything lining up nicely and the keel is straight it’s time to start gluing.  Thanks to those who posted build logs I followed their wisdom and invested in a container of Legos.  Those babies sure come in handy!
 

 
One of the things I did before beginning any of the actual construction was to read through the instruction manual.  I didn’t find anything about when, or where, to install the pedestals that come with the kit.
 
I realize that at some time in the future I will have to drill into the keel to mount the ship on these pedestals.  I figured that I had better plan ahead and marked the locations for the pedestal screws.  I marked these locations on both the keel and the plans.
 
At this stage of the build I made four reinforcement blocks and glued them to the keel in the locations I marked.  I tried to drill a hold in a piece of the scrap the keel came out of and found it almost impossible to drill a straight hole without the bit drifting out one side or the other.  That’s why I thought it a good idea to reinforce and drill these locations now.
 

 
Legos in hand, clamps at the ready, it was time to start gluing.  This was actually fun!  The way all the bulkheads fit the gluing went fairly fast.
 

 

This will be my second build.  I completed the Schooner Bluenose (scale 1:100) and set about deciding which ship to build next.
 
Thanks to the Admiral, I have several kits to choose from.  These were purchased over a two and a half year period following my decision to retire…for good.  The Admiral asked me what I wanted to do in retirement and I said build model ships.  I made a list and when the kits came on sale I would purchase them.  I now have nine from which to choose.
 
I rolled the bones and read the signs.  The spirits told me to build the Mayflower next.  Actually, I looked at them in chronological order.  The Mayflower would be first because it was built, date wise, before any of the others for which I have kits.
 
Since the Bluenose was a Model Shipways Kit and seemed to be very well designed, had a good set of instructions, and very good material I look forward to building the Model Shipways Mayflower based on the experience I had with the Bluenose.  I also sought out the build logs that are posted on the forum for this same kit.
 
Opening and inventorying the kit was not all that time consuming.  The parts list gives a very good description of each piece and the way the kit is packaged makes it a snap to find everything.
 

 

 
The four sheets of plans are large (I can see them without my glasses) and quite detailed.  I spent about an hour reading through the instruction manual and surprised at how well the construction is broken down and described.
 

 
Step one was to cut loose the keel.  It came right out and is straight and warp free.  The keel has a Bearding Line etched on the starboard side at the stern.  Using a French Curve I marked and transferred that line to the port side.  There is a Rabbet Strip that needs to be glued to the bottom of the keel from the stern all the way forward and up the bow.  I soaked this strip for about half an hour and clamped it in place to dry.
 
Once this is glued the keel is tapered, along with the Rabbet Strip, to a thickness of 3/32”.  I hope to get all this done before our two year old grandson finds me.
 

 
All observations, criticism, advice, and comments are welcome and encouraged.  I sure don’t consider myself any sort of expert after just one build.
 
So here’s hoping that everything works according to plan…and instructions!
 

I pretty much have to say that at this point my build of the Bluenose is finished.  There is nothing else I can do except put it on the shelf and admire the finished product.
 
All the pieces of the display case were cut at our community woodshop.  That kept all the sawdust out of my garage and house.
 

 
All the parts were tested to see if everything went together as planned.  I had to make a small adjustment to the groves in the base, but other than that it went together nicely.
 

 
Here is the finished build.  There really is nothing else to write down.  I will post some photos in the Gallery of competed models.
 

 
Note the nameplate holder.  The USB Flash Drive with my complete build log, resource material, and all photos is encased in the box built into the holder.
 

Adam,
 
I was reading through the manual this morning as I was getting the parts inventoried and found the section that refers to that eyebolt.
 
On page 47, under "Fore Yard..." it's explained as being a substitue for a knight that is supposed to be located below the forecastle deck.  The eyebolt is used to secure the ramshead.
 
I'm still on page 2, paragraph 1, in my construction phase.

I pretty much have to say that at this point my build of the Bluenose is finished.  There is nothing else I can do except put it on the shelf and admire the finished product.
 
All the pieces of the display case were cut at our community woodshop.  That kept all the sawdust out of my garage and house.
 

 
All the parts were tested to see if everything went together as planned.  I had to make a small adjustment to the groves in the base, but other than that it went together nicely.
 

 
Here is the finished build.  There really is nothing else to write down.  I will post some photos in the Gallery of competed models.
 

 
Note the nameplate holder.  The USB Flash Drive with my complete build log, resource material, and all photos is encased in the box built into the holder.
 

I present, for your inspection and critique, my completed rendition of the Canadian Schooner Bluenose.
 
I tied the last knot at 1730 hour MST this evening.
 

 

 
Just to add a bit of authenticity and acquire official approval of the model, I asked my neighbor to come over.  He, being from Canada, inspected the model and gave me a thumbs up.
 

 
From start to finish this has been an adventure.  I am very pleased with the Model Shipways Kit and the quality woods and especially the building manual.  Granted, there are a number of improvements that can be made to any kit, but overall this is a well thought out product.
 
I’ve learned to bend and shape various woods, sew sails, and above all patience!
 
My next step is to complete the display case and mount the Bluenose.
 
To all of you that have followed this build and provided instruction, and inspiration, I thank you.
 

I pretty much have to say that at this point my build of the Bluenose is finished.  There is nothing else I can do except put it on the shelf and admire the finished product.
 
All the pieces of the display case were cut at our community woodshop.  That kept all the sawdust out of my garage and house.
 

 
All the parts were tested to see if everything went together as planned.  I had to make a small adjustment to the groves in the base, but other than that it went together nicely.
 

 
Here is the finished build.  There really is nothing else to write down.  I will post some photos in the Gallery of competed models.
 

 
Note the nameplate holder.  The USB Flash Drive with my complete build log, resource material, and all photos is encased in the box built into the holder.
 

I pretty much have to say that at this point my build of the Bluenose is finished.  There is nothing else I can do except put it on the shelf and admire the finished product.
 
All the pieces of the display case were cut at our community woodshop.  That kept all the sawdust out of my garage and house.
 

 
All the parts were tested to see if everything went together as planned.  I had to make a small adjustment to the groves in the base, but other than that it went together nicely.
 

 
Here is the finished build.  There really is nothing else to write down.  I will post some photos in the Gallery of competed models.
 

 
Note the nameplate holder.  The USB Flash Drive with my complete build log, resource material, and all photos is encased in the box built into the holder.
 

I pretty much have to say that at this point my build of the Bluenose is finished.  There is nothing else I can do except put it on the shelf and admire the finished product.
 
All the pieces of the display case were cut at our community woodshop.  That kept all the sawdust out of my garage and house.
 

 
All the parts were tested to see if everything went together as planned.  I had to make a small adjustment to the groves in the base, but other than that it went together nicely.
 

 
Here is the finished build.  There really is nothing else to write down.  I will post some photos in the Gallery of competed models.
 

 
Note the nameplate holder.  The USB Flash Drive with my complete build log, resource material, and all photos is encased in the box built into the holder.
 

I pretty much have to say that at this point my build of the Bluenose is finished.  There is nothing else I can do except put it on the shelf and admire the finished product.
 
All the pieces of the display case were cut at our community woodshop.  That kept all the sawdust out of my garage and house.
 

 
All the parts were tested to see if everything went together as planned.  I had to make a small adjustment to the groves in the base, but other than that it went together nicely.
 

 
Here is the finished build.  There really is nothing else to write down.  I will post some photos in the Gallery of competed models.
 

 
Note the nameplate holder.  The USB Flash Drive with my complete build log, resource material, and all photos is encased in the box built into the holder.
 

I used the time between building phases to get over to the community woodshop and whack out some lumber for a display case.  As Yambo pointed out, I wanted to get her under cover before any dust, or fingerprints from the grandkids, settles on the rigging.
 
I used Poplar for my display case because it was readily available in the sizes I wanted and gives a nice contrast to the darkness of the Bluenose paint scheme.
 

 

 
 
The case is designed to be assembled around the model once it is secured to the base.  The corner rails are secured to the base with brass wood screws and the top is then fitted to the corner rails and secured with brass wood screws.
 
I looked into purchasing glass for the display case, but found it to be very cost prohibitive.  Regular single strength glass is too fragile and would break very easily and tempered glass is outrageously priced.
 
I discussed the use of various materials with a tech at Lowe’s and finally settled on using 1/8th inch Lexan instead of glass.  At least I know it isn’t going to break and it will be indoors and out of the sun so I’m not too concerned about yellowing or clouding.
 

 
A while back I read a post describing some of the ways various builders put little treasures in their models.  As the discussion progressed it was suggested that the build log for the model be somehow incorporated into the display.  There were several suggestions including CD ROMs and then the use of a USB Flash Drive that could be encased with the model.
 
I purchased a number of 1 Gigabyte USB Flash Drives through Amazon and then set about designing a combination nameplate holder and USB box.  This is my final result.
 

 

 

 
The USB Flash Drive, containing all my photos of the build and the complete build log, will be placed into the box and then the construction will be secured to the Display Case floor with brass screws.
 
Once the model is secured to the base of the display case and the nameplate/USB box is in place I’ll assemble the sides and secure the top.
 
This will finish my build log.  My next post will be in the “Gallery of COMPLETED Kit-Built Ship Models” with the finished display case.