Bob Cleek

This new product may have come on the market since the inception of this post. It's really the best all-purpose holding system I've ever seen. Very strong and rigid holding ability. Heavy steel base. Arms attach with rare-earth magnets. Flexible arms stay put. Not like those "third hand" holding gizmos that have been around forever and never stay where you want them. High quality alligator clips, too. Reasonably priced. QuadHands® - Helping Hands Tool
 

Very true. The poster intends to build a radio controlled model, so he'll have to open up the inside. I think the USN's model standards require hollowed bread and butter hulls because this makes the model much less heavy and they do a fair amount of moving their models around. The USN's ship model "mil specs" also require lifts be in two pieces, one to each side and glued together down the centerline (being cut two at a time as described in my previous post.) I believe this is required because of the propensity of a single plank splitting along the grain at the "pointy ends" of the center cut-out, but I'm not sure I understand exactly why that would be any different than a glue joint. I suppose the glue joint done properly would be stronger than a narrow section of grain alone.
 
If the plans show the waterlines, there's no reason not to use those, but if the body section plans are available without the waterlines superimposed, or if one wanted to set the thickness of their lifts themselves, it's an easy thing to line off your own waterlines on top of the body sections and take off the distances at each body section station for each waterline. 

I don't think it would be significant in that case, either. We must remember, though, that the USN specs for ship models were designed (and later written) for ship models of WWII vintage and newer, so six foot long models weren't all that unusual. A modern-day aircraft carrier at 1:96 would run around ten and a half feet long.
 
I must confess that after checking it, I discovered my recollection of the USN model mil specs was "bass ackwards." They prohibit gluing the two halves of lifts cut together at the ends in models of less than 12" maximum beam! They only require hollowed lifts for models with more than a 12" beam.  They say that on hulls of less than 12" maximum beam they require that "...hull lifts shall be cut to the full body shape; lifts shall not be cut in halves, thereby creating a glue seam along the vertical centerline of the model." This would suggest that hollowed lifts were at the builder's option in hulls with less than a 12" maximum beam as long as the lifts were built of a solid piece of wood, and mandatory for hull's with a greater than 12" maximum beam and hulls over a 12" maximum beam could be glued up of two pieces along the centerline. That would tend to make sense because mahogany or basswood lift stock wider than 12" isn't all that easy to come by.  All and all, ship modelers would do well to aspire to following the Navy's specifications. 
 
Actual text of USN ship model contract specifications:
 
Hull
Hulls shall be built up in lifts of clear, first-grade mahogany or basswood; doweled and glued together with water-resistant glue. The wood shall be completely free of knots, checks, and sap pockets and shall be thoroughly seasoned. Models over 12 inches beam must be hollowed for reduction of weight The hull shall be composed of the least number of parts necessary to achieve the proper shape. An excessive number of glue joints shall be avoided. On models less than 12 inches beam, hull lifts shall be cut to the full body shape: lifts shall not be cut in halves, thereby creating a glue seam along the vertical centerline of the model. The lifts shall conform accurately to lines of the vessel as shown by the plans. A stable, durable, flexible body putty may be used in moderation to fill gaps.
 
Nautical Research Guild - Article - Specifications for Construction of Exhibition Models of U.S. Naval Vessels (thenrg.org)

I was spotting you the work needed for lofting of the WL on the tug.   I purposely have set my focus to end at 1860.  I am buried under by all of the choices as it is. Including steel would put me into a  positive feedback loop.  I do think that the transition steel vessels up until 1914 contained some very interesting and bizarre subjects - almost totally ignored.
 
I missed the part about the two part bilateral symmetry.   Perhaps the reason is to have opposing tension.  Lifts from a single board may allow a bend: crook/crown?  I have always assumed that the hollow requirement was to reduce the damage caused by changes in humidity.   With wooden ship models of vessels before 1860,  the difference in weight that being hollow produces seems like it would not be significant.   For a CVN, or BB at 1:48 the difference would be significant.  But then a CVN could probably carry HMS Victory 1765 on davits as a very large lifeboat.

Very true. The poster intends to build a radio controlled model, so he'll have to open up the inside. I think the USN's model standards require hollowed bread and butter hulls because this makes the model much less heavy and they do a fair amount of moving their models around. The USN's ship model "mil specs" also require lifts be in two pieces, one to each side and glued together down the centerline (being cut two at a time as described in my previous post.) I believe this is required because of the propensity of a single plank splitting along the grain at the "pointy ends" of the center cut-out, but I'm not sure I understand exactly why that would be any different than a glue joint. I suppose the glue joint done properly would be stronger than a narrow section of grain alone.
 
If the plans show the waterlines, there's no reason not to use those, but if the body section plans are available without the waterlines superimposed, or if one wanted to set the thickness of their lifts themselves, it's an easy thing to line off your own waterlines on top of the body sections and take off the distances at each body section station for each waterline. 

Focusing on your comment that "I'm in the process of assessing this craft to see if its something I want to undertake; a decision I'm not taking lightly."
 
Begin with a quality kit that is designed for "beginners." This forum is full of evaluations on kits and you should review those. A "fore and aft" rigged vessel will be much less challenging than a square-rigged one. Bluejacket Shipcrafters offers a fine line of "Ensign" or beginner's level kits. http://www.bluejacketinc.com/kits/index.htm#ensign Model Shipways (MicroMark) has a British Admiralty longboat kit that is highly recommended for a serious beginner's project. This kit includes a basic tool kit and paints needed to complete the model for around $100. https://www.micromark.com/Model-Shipways-MS1457TL-Longboat-Ship-Kit-with-Tools-1-48 If you sign up for the MicroMark's catalog, you will get regular emails providing premium codes for significant discounts. (Presently, IIRC, MicroMark or a similar company, ModelExpo, are having a 20% off premium code sale.) This longboat model was designed by Chuck Passaro, a MSW forum moderator and his construction of the prototype model can be found at https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/629-18th-century-english-longboat-by-chuck-c1760/. It is incredibly well illustrated and contains full explanations of every process together with answers to the many questions asked by MSW members who are now building the kit.
 
An important point is that the "build logs" in this forum are very informative. (Some more than others, however, for whatever reason. I have no idea how the modelers who post the really fantastically photographed and instructively written logs have the time to build their model and photograph and write about it at the same time!) The detail and workmanship of some of the masters is breathtaking... and can easily scare off someone who lacks a lifetime of experience and a shop full of specialized power tools. Appreciate and learn from the masters, but realize that if you take care and don't rush your work, it is possible for anyone with patience, attention to detail, and perseverance to build a fine kit model which can deservedly be displayed with pride. It is easily possible to spend thousands of dollars on micro-scale machine tools, but it is also entirely possible to accomplish the same work with hand tools and a bit more time.
 
As for what tools are needed, follow this maxim: "Never buy a tool unless you need it and when you do, buy the best tool you can possibly afford." Properly cared for,  tools retain their value and, for those of us who appreciate them, are a joy to own.  Also, remember the corollary to the above maxim, as well: "A cheap tool will have to be bought twice."  I expect that every MSW member who's been building models for any length of time can give examples of the money we've wasted in our younger years buying seductively advertised "ship modeling tools" offered in the many catalogs that are available. I expect many bought the now-infamous "Loom-A-line" plastic frame that was touted as essential for tying ratlines to shrouds and is totally and completely useless for any purpose whatsoever!  (Fortunately, it wasn't that expensive.) Many of the ship modeling tools sold in the popular catalogs, even when useful, are liable to be of poor quality, fit, and finish. Far higher quality hand tools can usually be purchased from professional jewelry-making and medical surgical instrument supply houses, and often for the same price, if not less, than the modeling tool catalogs. (This applies to edged tools especially.) You will probably find that you already have a lot, if not most, of the tools you will need when starting out lying around the house. 
 
The specific tools you might need to get started are little more than a hobby knife, some decent tweezers, a sharp fine pointed pair of scissors, a set of small files, and a selection of sandpaper. (And, some of the top retailers like ModelExpo and MicroMark often package those tools along with their "introductory kits" at a large discount to get you "hooked.") Beyond that, the model you build will instruct you in what you need as you go along. This section of the MSW forum on Modeling Tools and Workshop Equipment provides invaluable information. (The "search" thingy in the upper right hand corner of the page is your friend.) You will find experienced modelers commenting at length on the merits of just about every tool and material known to man or beast. If, perchance, you can't find information on a tool or material already discussed, just post your question and somebody will surely have a good answer for you. If you limit yourself to acquiring fine tools you need, that too can become a hobby in itself! Spending twenty-five bucks or so on a good tool now and then is not likely to be noticed by the purser of the household and is a healthy way to treat yourself when you deserve it!
 
With something like the Model Shipways longboat kit, you will risk little money in finding out whether building model ships is something you enjoy doing and you won't end up being one of those people who spent a thousand bucks or more on a spectacular Seventeenth or Eighteenth Century warship model kit which might well be so intimidating that it is never started, let alone finished.
 
So before getting off into buying a lot of tools, I'd urge you to pick put a model that strikes your fancy, keeping the first one simple. Don't bite off more than you can chew. Then look it up in the "Kit Build Logs" index (at the top of the "Build Logs" section of the forum.) There is a build log, and often several, for just about every model kit worth building in that section. Those logs written by modelers, some building their first model, will give you an excellent idea of what is involved in building any given kit. That will give you the confidence to proceed with the particular model that interests you... or at least determine "if its something I want to undertake."
 
Lastly, stay away from eBay and only buy a kit from a retailer who will supply missing parts and plans if that comes to pass and never, ever, buy Chinese or Russian "knock off" counterfeit kits pirated from legitimate manufacturers. Not only do they rip off legitimate kit designers and manufacturers, but, simply put, they are not worth even the cut rate prices they charge for them.

Keith’s videos are great! I haven’t watched much of the series on Edith, I’ll have to start working my way through them…

The thickness of the lifts are up to the builder. The thicker they are, the more you have to shave off to fair the hull. In a hull like you are contemplating, though, there'd be a lot of flat areas amidships that wouldn't need much fairing at all, which would tend to favor thicker lifts. It's really a question of the size of the hull and how "curvey" it is. Bread and butter construction is more common in larger models. Inch thick lifts would probably work fine on a three or four foot hull. Half-inch lifts would be fine, too, well, but with twice the work to saw them out... and half the work of fairing, more or less. The way they are often made is to only loft the waterline shape from the centerline and use that for a pattern. Two identical halves of a lift are cut out at once from two planks stacked one on top of the other. (These are often screwed together to keep them from moving when the sawing is done.) The "inside" is also cut out of the stacked planks. The pieces are then separated and one turned over and the two glued together at the bow and stern. The result is one whole waterline lift for half the sawing work and the certainty that both sides of the lifts on each side of the hull are identical. The lifts are often cut a bit wide of the line at the bow so the vee of the bow can be faired exactly to the centerline without the risk of over-doing it by accident. If the corners of the lifts that define the shape of the hull are marked with a felt tipped pen or the like, all you do is remove the lift edge that's standing proud and use the black marking to guide you down to as far as the excess needs to be faired. That can be done with a chisel. a spokeshave, or even a pocket knife. When you get close to removing all the excess wood from the lifts, you take a flexible batten with sandpaper glued to it and, bending it to conform to the shape of the hull, sand in all directions to complete the fairing process down to the glue lines marked by the black felt tipped pen ink.

Okay, I've got it. I won't pester you further to go the "bread and butter" route, except to add to what I've said before that buying pine, poplar or the like for a "bread and butter" hull is a lot less expensive than buying pre-milled wood for frames and planking and even considering the time you might take to loft the waterline shapes, it's would be much faster and easier than building the hull plank on frame where you will have to cut out all those individual frames, etc. You're drinking it, though, not me, so pick your poison.   

There's a ton of information on line about model steam launches. Check out these websites:   building a model steam launch - Search (bing.com) and these YouTube videos: building a model steam launch - YouTube
 
Running the engine on compressed air is a good indication that it will run on steam. At least it's not frozen. Still, the valve may have to be adjusted so it runs smoothly on steam. 
 
Parts are readily available online. You can get safety valves, feedwater pumps, plumbing stock, water glasses, pressure gauges, shafting, and propellers, and such mail order. (Steam propellers have a much greater pitch and turn at lower RPMs. Steam engines have tons of torque. Internal combustion engines have lots of speed and poor torque compared to steam, so the pitch of their propellers is much less. The steam prop takes big slow bites. The IC engine prop takes fast small bites.) Google is your friend. As you probably know, there are dedicated live steam model forums and a lot of live steam hobbyists on the R/C forums.  All the live steaming models are run by radio control these days. Ages of Sail, in the San Francisco Bay Area, is a mail order and brick and mortar ship modeling shop and a sponsor of this forum. They have a U.S. distributorship for Saito model live steam plants, live steam ship model kits, and related R/C gear. You can get anything you need in terms of parts from them... for a price. Ages of Sail also carry kits for live steam launches, tug boats, and so on. See: Saito Manufacturing - Steam Engines and RC Kits (agesofsail.com)
 
I'm familiar with gasoline boiler burners. at least those that heat a coiled copper tubing water tube "flash boiler" that surrounds the burner. These were popular a hundred years ago. They usually surrounded the water tube coil with refractory material and asbestos lagging compound. The burner was an old-time converted gasoline blow torch burner. They scared the heck out of me. I'd definitely go for a modern commercially made boiler that runs on propane from a stock propane torch bottle. Save the old gasoline burner as an antique, but don't try to run it if you don't want to end up like Richard Pryor did with his crack pipe! You may be able to use the boiler you have and install an updated propane burner in it. Hydrotesting a small model launch boiler is a no-brainer if you have a pressure gauge on it and a compressor. Boiler pressure is quite low and if you use a water tube boiler, if it blows, the water in the tubes squirts out all over the place and puts your fire out and it's just a mess to clean up as opposed to a bomb throwing shrapnel all over. 
 
You may be familiar with Main Steam Models in England. Lots of eye-candy on their site. Mainsteam Models | Live Steam Engines | Model Engineering Tutorials They have a Patreon video series on "How to build a model live steam launch." 
 
A couple of Stuart 10V plants with different boilers. The first is gas fired.
 

From: Mainsteam Models Gallery | Steam Engine | Tutorials | Help & Info
 
The rest of the photos are of a coal fired plant!
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
This multi-part YouTube video series will keep you busy for a while. The guy knows his such. 
 
 
 
 
 

It appears to be a main staysail. This sail is a fore-and-aft rigged sail attached to the main-mast. It's the same as a mizzen staysail, but on the mainmast.
 
 

It appears to be a main staysail. This sail is a fore-and-aft rigged sail attached to the main-mast. It's the same as a mizzen staysail, but on the mainmast.
 
 

Correction: "Main topmast staysail." It's a headsail with its head attached to the mast and its luff attached to the stay attached to the head of that mast.
 
The general sail naming convention is to first state the mast the sail is hoisted on and then the type of sail it is. This one, being attached to the stay, is a staysail. Beyond that, they come in all different sizes like any headsail and can be named whatever the captain wants, e.g.: "the big main topmast staysail," or the "main topmast genoa," and so on. In some instances, unusual sails acquire odd-ball names that become so popular that they endure, such as the "gollywobbler," a twin-headed light air reaching sail set flying from the fore and main mastheads of a two-masted schooner.

You got it! You can double the frames or you can join the pieces end to end with half-lap joints.
 
Which is why I suggested you build your hull using the "bread and butter" lift method like the majority of working ship model builders do when building a one-off wooden hull, especially for R/C use.
 
From the questions you've been asking, it seems that you may presently lack the breadth of experience and understanding to be attempting to scratch-build an R/C model from plans that by, your description only provide data, on decks and frames. This isn't intended to be a criticism nor to discouraging from building a model ship at all. It's just that a steep flight of stairs isn't the best place to learn to walk. Even with greater experience and skill, you aren't going to get far with incomplete and inadequate plans. I suggest that you consider buying the Billings Boats (kit company) Zwarte Zee tug model kit.  (I've never been a fan of Billings Boats kits, but that's just my personal opinion. Others appear quite satisfied with them.) Billing Boats Zwarte Zee B592 Model Boat Kit | Cornwall Model Boats (I'm not sure, but Billing may have updated their Zwarte Zee kit from a wood hull to a plastic one.) You will get everything you need in the kit (less the R/C running gear, I expect) and, clearly, if you are having problems deciding which wood to use at this point, you have no idea how much trouble you will encounter trying to source other parts for your build (unless you are going to start turning your own from raw brass and copper and soldering the parts together.) You can get the parts from Billings, of course, but it would likely be  very little more money to buy the whole kit than the parts piecemeal and you'd be getting the wood, a complete set of plans, and a set of instructions. As is turns out, Popeye the Sailor of this forum is just commencing a build of the Billings Zwarte Zee tug kit. You can look over his shoulder and learn a lot as he progresses: 
 

All wood has grain, so the problem of grain run-out on curved shapes is always an inherent weakness. There are some woods that have what is known as interlocked grain and for that reason are less prone to breaking along the grain, but such woods are difficult to work and generally not suitable for modeling work. I'd expect that the kits you are recalling had frames or bulkheads cut from plywood. Plywood doesn't have grain run-out problems because the plies are laminated with the grain running at right angles to each other. The main problem with plywood bulkheads and frames is that the edges of plywood don't take adhesives or mechanical fasteners well at all which causes major headaches when trying to fasten plank to them.

Google is your friend.
 
Sliding Lid Box : 11 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables
 
Woodworking: How to make a sliding lid box - Bing video
 
Make a sliding-lid box - Bing video
 
Make a Wooden Box With A Sliding Lid // And Dowel Joinery - Bing video
 
 

Good point about the sanding grit getting in the saw's innards. The sanding disk is a fairly common practice with full-size table saws, though, and I've not heard of any problems there. I expect the use of an attached vacuum would be highly advisable if you were sanding. Switching between blade and sanding disk would definitely be a pain, which is why buying both a saw and sander from Byrnes makes the most sense.  
 
If you're in need of a disk sander and short on cash, the lucky thing is that a disk sander is about the easiest power tool to make yourself. 

Correction: "Main topmast staysail." It's a headsail with its head attached to the mast and its luff attached to the stay attached to the head of that mast.
 
The general sail naming convention is to first state the mast the sail is hoisted on and then the type of sail it is. This one, being attached to the stay, is a staysail. Beyond that, they come in all different sizes like any headsail and can be named whatever the captain wants, e.g.: "the big main topmast staysail," or the "main topmast genoa," and so on. In some instances, unusual sails acquire odd-ball names that become so popular that they endure, such as the "gollywobbler," a twin-headed light air reaching sail set flying from the fore and main mastheads of a two-masted schooner.

It appears to be a main staysail. This sail is a fore-and-aft rigged sail attached to the main-mast. It's the same as a mizzen staysail, but on the mainmast.
 
 

Correction: "Main topmast staysail." It's a headsail with its head attached to the mast and its luff attached to the stay attached to the head of that mast.
 
The general sail naming convention is to first state the mast the sail is hoisted on and then the type of sail it is. This one, being attached to the stay, is a staysail. Beyond that, they come in all different sizes like any headsail and can be named whatever the captain wants, e.g.: "the big main topmast staysail," or the "main topmast genoa," and so on. In some instances, unusual sails acquire odd-ball names that become so popular that they endure, such as the "gollywobbler," a twin-headed light air reaching sail set flying from the fore and main mastheads of a two-masted schooner.

Alistair, very interesting method for aging the copper plates.  I just might have to try it out on my current build.  The one thing I'm not sure about however is which morning pee I should use, the 1AM or the 3AM or the 5AM or the 7AM.😉

The Birch is the outside layer.  It is for looks.   It should work as long as it does not get wet.
There is a Birch ply for boat building. The liner ply are not junk and the bonding adhesive is waterproof.   An extreme that you do not need and unlikely to be anywhere as thin as you want.
 
The Mahogany that you can get is not really Mahogany.  Real Mahogany was timbered to near extinction fairly early in the 20th century, so it is a protected species.  I would look real hard for something else.
Most everything called Mahogany has open pores.  This means that it is scale inappropriate if it is on view.
 
Going to a builders supply and getting clear Pine would be a low cost option.  If their thinnest project boards are too thick,  make friends with a serious woodworker and see if he would turn Pine 2x4's or 2x6's into sheets that are your target thickness.
 

First:  this is not a frame. It is a mold.  The first Italian POB mfg used a term that translated as "bulkhead".  Those parts are not bulkheads.  Western wooden ships did not have bulkheads. Chinese seagoing junks did have actual bulkheads.  But with POB there are no actual frames.  There are no parts that should be called "frames".
 
That the grain for a mold has to support a curve covering as much as 210 degrees is the reason that plywood was first used to make them.  From an esthetic point of view, plywood is a wood product, but not actually wood.  Now another semi synthetic  material: MDF is used by some mfg.  
 
For actual POF, the frame should be made up of timbers.  The timbers should have grain that matched the line of the shape where it lives.    The original builders used compass timbers where there were curves.  This is not really practical for a scale model.  It can be done, but it a lot of work, a lot of luck, and a lot of waste.   An end grain to end grain bond has almost no strength.  A single frame is a breakup waiting to happen.  A pair of frames with timbers that half lap the butt joint of the partner and glue bonded together is very strong.  This is what a 'bend' is.
 

So what were you drinking before you peed in the cup?  
 
The resident chemists can probably give a better suggestion, but I'd be interested to see if a similar result might not be achieved using a solution of water, amonia, and table salt. If so, that would avoid the chance that your living room or wherever you display the model won't acquire the aroma of a dirty gas station mens' room. You might also consider bringing a urine sample to your urologist. The reddish tinge to that in the cup pictured is concerning!  
 
Thanks for having the courage to share a very interesting technique. Great photos, too. 

This is all you need to know about lead oxidization in ship models. Read it carefully, It's the "bible" on the subject.
 
Nautical Research Journal - Vol 43 (thenrg.org)