Bob Cleek
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from AlleyCat in Do you India ink your threads?
There's nothing wrong that I can see in using India ink to blacken rigging thread. That said, an inadvertent drop or splatter of India ink landing on the model could ruin your whole day, no? I'd suggest applying the ink off the model, rather than applying it with a paintbrush directly above your bright finished decks. The common technique is to put the India ink in a small straight-sided bottle, like a pill bottle, for example, containing the India ink and sliding a piece of wood the width of the inside of the bottle with a slight "U" notch cut into it down into the bottle just short of the bottom with the string to be colored run around the bottom of the wooden piece and held in the center of the wooden piece by the "U" notch. The wooden piece holds the thread down in the India ink as the length of thread is pulled up out of the bottle. The "dry" uncolored thread is drawn into the bottle by pulling the "wet" side of the length of thread. You can devise your own method of wiping the excess India ink as the "wet" thread comes out of the bottle, if need be. The length of string can then be hung up to dry. India ink is very useful, but wicked stuff. When the bottle says "Permanent," they mean it. You want to be careful to keep it where you want it and nowhere else.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Do you India ink your threads?
There's nothing wrong that I can see in using India ink to blacken rigging thread. That said, an inadvertent drop or splatter of India ink landing on the model could ruin your whole day, no? I'd suggest applying the ink off the model, rather than applying it with a paintbrush directly above your bright finished decks. The common technique is to put the India ink in a small straight-sided bottle, like a pill bottle, for example, containing the India ink and sliding a piece of wood the width of the inside of the bottle with a slight "U" notch cut into it down into the bottle just short of the bottom with the string to be colored run around the bottom of the wooden piece and held in the center of the wooden piece by the "U" notch. The wooden piece holds the thread down in the India ink as the length of thread is pulled up out of the bottle. The "dry" uncolored thread is drawn into the bottle by pulling the "wet" side of the length of thread. You can devise your own method of wiping the excess India ink as the "wet" thread comes out of the bottle, if need be. The length of string can then be hung up to dry. India ink is very useful, but wicked stuff. When the bottle says "Permanent," they mean it. You want to be careful to keep it where you want it and nowhere else.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Do you India ink your threads?
There's nothing wrong that I can see in using India ink to blacken rigging thread. That said, an inadvertent drop or splatter of India ink landing on the model could ruin your whole day, no? I'd suggest applying the ink off the model, rather than applying it with a paintbrush directly above your bright finished decks. The common technique is to put the India ink in a small straight-sided bottle, like a pill bottle, for example, containing the India ink and sliding a piece of wood the width of the inside of the bottle with a slight "U" notch cut into it down into the bottle just short of the bottom with the string to be colored run around the bottom of the wooden piece and held in the center of the wooden piece by the "U" notch. The wooden piece holds the thread down in the India ink as the length of thread is pulled up out of the bottle. The "dry" uncolored thread is drawn into the bottle by pulling the "wet" side of the length of thread. You can devise your own method of wiping the excess India ink as the "wet" thread comes out of the bottle, if need be. The length of string can then be hung up to dry. India ink is very useful, but wicked stuff. When the bottle says "Permanent," they mean it. You want to be careful to keep it where you want it and nowhere else.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Do you India ink your threads?
There's nothing wrong that I can see in using India ink to blacken rigging thread. That said, an inadvertent drop or splatter of India ink landing on the model could ruin your whole day, no? I'd suggest applying the ink off the model, rather than applying it with a paintbrush directly above your bright finished decks. The common technique is to put the India ink in a small straight-sided bottle, like a pill bottle, for example, containing the India ink and sliding a piece of wood the width of the inside of the bottle with a slight "U" notch cut into it down into the bottle just short of the bottom with the string to be colored run around the bottom of the wooden piece and held in the center of the wooden piece by the "U" notch. The wooden piece holds the thread down in the India ink as the length of thread is pulled up out of the bottle. The "dry" uncolored thread is drawn into the bottle by pulling the "wet" side of the length of thread. You can devise your own method of wiping the excess India ink as the "wet" thread comes out of the bottle, if need be. The length of string can then be hung up to dry. India ink is very useful, but wicked stuff. When the bottle says "Permanent," they mean it. You want to be careful to keep it where you want it and nowhere else.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Dave_E in Do you India ink your threads?
There's nothing wrong that I can see in using India ink to blacken rigging thread. That said, an inadvertent drop or splatter of India ink landing on the model could ruin your whole day, no? I'd suggest applying the ink off the model, rather than applying it with a paintbrush directly above your bright finished decks. The common technique is to put the India ink in a small straight-sided bottle, like a pill bottle, for example, containing the India ink and sliding a piece of wood the width of the inside of the bottle with a slight "U" notch cut into it down into the bottle just short of the bottom with the string to be colored run around the bottom of the wooden piece and held in the center of the wooden piece by the "U" notch. The wooden piece holds the thread down in the India ink as the length of thread is pulled up out of the bottle. The "dry" uncolored thread is drawn into the bottle by pulling the "wet" side of the length of thread. You can devise your own method of wiping the excess India ink as the "wet" thread comes out of the bottle, if need be. The length of string can then be hung up to dry. India ink is very useful, but wicked stuff. When the bottle says "Permanent," they mean it. You want to be careful to keep it where you want it and nowhere else.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from allanyed in On using different fabrics for netting, sails, and hammocks- a question of scale and realism
I've got one of those, a pilot schooner, from over forty years ago. I keep it around as a personal memento of that time in my life. Every so often, I think about re-doing the offending sails, but the urge soon passes.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from allanyed in HMS Diana by DavidEN - Caldercraft - 1:64
I'm no expert on this period, but as the prohibition on painting names on British naval ships after 1771 was, as I recall, for the purposes of security (so enemy spies would not be able to accurately determine the whereabouts of specific vessels,) it would seem the practice wouldn't have been "nuanced," but rather strictly enforced. It's a fascinating question, though. Do you have any historical references for the regulation being ignored?
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Bob Cleek reacted to allanyed in HMS Diana by DavidEN - Caldercraft - 1:64
Absolutely lovely work David. One thing, hope you don't mind, but the Admiralty only allowed the names on the stern between about 1770 and and 1780. As Diana was launched in 1794, she would not have had her name on the stern.
Allan
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in On using different fabrics for netting, sails, and hammocks- a question of scale and realism
I've got one of those, a pilot schooner, from over forty years ago. I keep it around as a personal memento of that time in my life. Every so often, I think about re-doing the offending sails, but the urge soon passes.
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Bob Cleek reacted to allanyed in On using different fabrics for netting, sails, and hammocks- a question of scale and realism
Eberhard is spot on about using silk span. There is no cloth and absolutely no sewing machine that will yield stitching that is to scale at 1:96 or even as large as 1:48. There are a lot of beautiful models in the build logs that are ruined when cloth sails are rigged.
Allan
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Bob Cleek reacted to wefalck in On using different fabrics for netting, sails, and hammocks- a question of scale and realism
At 1:96 scale I would rather not use any cloth for sails, it is far too coarse, even the finest ones you can find. Have look around the forum there are several threads on using silk paper or 'silkspan'. Dito for rolled hammocks.
For netting at this it is not so easy, as most commercial netting or screen is likely to have too fine mesh and/or too thick threads. Printing silk-screen could be an option or recycled silk teabags. There is also wire- or sieve-mesh, but it may have the same problem. Drawing every second thread in both direction could be an option.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from AlleyCat in Draw plate for SQUARE holes
Wire drawplate holes are actually "funnel shaped." The wire is inserted in the larger side of the hole and drawn through the narrower side of the hole, thereby stretching and compressing the wire to the smaller dimension as it's drawn through. (This is why the wire ends up longer than it was before drawing.) Wooden drawplates shave the wood off the piece with their sharp edges, so, if one is using a metal drawplate, the wood is inserted in the small side of the hole and drawn out the large side of the hole so the sharp edges of the small side shave off the wood to the desired dimension. If one wants to use a wire drawplate for wood shaping, it's advisable to lap the face of the "narrow side" so that the edges are sharpened. (Making your own draw plate for round wood pieces is a simple matter of drilling the desired size hole in a metal plate and lapping the face of the plate.)
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Draw plate for SQUARE holes
Wire drawplate holes are actually "funnel shaped." The wire is inserted in the larger side of the hole and drawn through the narrower side of the hole, thereby stretching and compressing the wire to the smaller dimension as it's drawn through. (This is why the wire ends up longer than it was before drawing.) Wooden drawplates shave the wood off the piece with their sharp edges, so, if one is using a metal drawplate, the wood is inserted in the small side of the hole and drawn out the large side of the hole so the sharp edges of the small side shave off the wood to the desired dimension. If one wants to use a wire drawplate for wood shaping, it's advisable to lap the face of the "narrow side" so that the edges are sharpened. (Making your own draw plate for round wood pieces is a simple matter of drilling the desired size hole in a metal plate and lapping the face of the plate.)
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Draw plate for SQUARE holes
Wire drawplate holes are actually "funnel shaped." The wire is inserted in the larger side of the hole and drawn through the narrower side of the hole, thereby stretching and compressing the wire to the smaller dimension as it's drawn through. (This is why the wire ends up longer than it was before drawing.) Wooden drawplates shave the wood off the piece with their sharp edges, so, if one is using a metal drawplate, the wood is inserted in the small side of the hole and drawn out the large side of the hole so the sharp edges of the small side shave off the wood to the desired dimension. If one wants to use a wire drawplate for wood shaping, it's advisable to lap the face of the "narrow side" so that the edges are sharpened. (Making your own draw plate for round wood pieces is a simple matter of drilling the desired size hole in a metal plate and lapping the face of the plate.)
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Bob Cleek reacted to amateur in Painted waterline too thick
It also helps , but perhaps that is what you alteady did, removing the tape quite soon when the paint is no longer runny, but not dry.
And two layers of thinned down gives a better result than one layer of non-thinned down paint.
Jan
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Painted waterline too thick
Acrylic is often more difficult to sand than oil based paint, but it can be done if it's fully dry. Very fine sandpaper, followed by a hand rubbing with rottenstone and pummice should work, but extreme care would be required to avoid taking too much of the paint off and ensure that the rubbed finish is uniform on the entire hull. That's how the old school pros used to do it. It's time consuming and tedious. Nobody'd fault you if you left it as is. Many's the model that's been messed up by trying to get one little thing just absolutely perfect. You could easily end up re-painting the whole hull by the time you were through with it. The thinner masking tapes, like 3M "fine line" or Tamiya tend to minimize this problem.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from allanyed in Draw plate for SQUARE holes
Contenti has one as small as 0.3mm, but that's the smallest I could find searching my database of the "usual suspects." See: https://contenti.com/square-drawplates-10625#_
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Draw plate for SQUARE holes
Contenti has one as small as 0.3mm, but that's the smallest I could find searching my database of the "usual suspects." See: https://contenti.com/square-drawplates-10625#_
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from amateur in Painted waterline too thick
Acrylic is often more difficult to sand than oil based paint, but it can be done if it's fully dry. Very fine sandpaper, followed by a hand rubbing with rottenstone and pummice should work, but extreme care would be required to avoid taking too much of the paint off and ensure that the rubbed finish is uniform on the entire hull. That's how the old school pros used to do it. It's time consuming and tedious. Nobody'd fault you if you left it as is. Many's the model that's been messed up by trying to get one little thing just absolutely perfect. You could easily end up re-painting the whole hull by the time you were through with it. The thinner masking tapes, like 3M "fine line" or Tamiya tend to minimize this problem.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Painted waterline too thick
Acrylic is often more difficult to sand than oil based paint, but it can be done if it's fully dry. Very fine sandpaper, followed by a hand rubbing with rottenstone and pummice should work, but extreme care would be required to avoid taking too much of the paint off and ensure that the rubbed finish is uniform on the entire hull. That's how the old school pros used to do it. It's time consuming and tedious. Nobody'd fault you if you left it as is. Many's the model that's been messed up by trying to get one little thing just absolutely perfect. You could easily end up re-painting the whole hull by the time you were through with it. The thinner masking tapes, like 3M "fine line" or Tamiya tend to minimize this problem.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Dave_E in Painted waterline too thick
Acrylic is often more difficult to sand than oil based paint, but it can be done if it's fully dry. Very fine sandpaper, followed by a hand rubbing with rottenstone and pummice should work, but extreme care would be required to avoid taking too much of the paint off and ensure that the rubbed finish is uniform on the entire hull. That's how the old school pros used to do it. It's time consuming and tedious. Nobody'd fault you if you left it as is. Many's the model that's been messed up by trying to get one little thing just absolutely perfect. You could easily end up re-painting the whole hull by the time you were through with it. The thinner masking tapes, like 3M "fine line" or Tamiya tend to minimize this problem.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Gregory in Painted waterline too thick
Acrylic is often more difficult to sand than oil based paint, but it can be done if it's fully dry. Very fine sandpaper, followed by a hand rubbing with rottenstone and pummice should work, but extreme care would be required to avoid taking too much of the paint off and ensure that the rubbed finish is uniform on the entire hull. That's how the old school pros used to do it. It's time consuming and tedious. Nobody'd fault you if you left it as is. Many's the model that's been messed up by trying to get one little thing just absolutely perfect. You could easily end up re-painting the whole hull by the time you were through with it. The thinner masking tapes, like 3M "fine line" or Tamiya tend to minimize this problem.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Mirabell61 in Elbe 5 1883 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - pilot schooner as she appeared c. 1890
I went down and watched Hal Sommer and the guys sheath Wander Bird's bottom in copper because it was something I wanted to "study up on" at the time, since it wasn't done very often back then and that was as much of an "apprenticeship" in coppering a bottom anybody was going to get. There were still a few old timers around who knew what they were doing and you could learn something if you stayed out of the way and kept your mouth shut. In those days, many of the old maritime trades were disappearing. I seem to recall that was the first time she'd been coppered. I don't recall them stripping the old copper off, but I'm not positive. That was like fifty years ago now.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Vladimir_Wairoa in Glory of the Seas 1869 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - 1/96 - medium clipper
It's sure looking good, Rob! Thanks for sharing the build with us.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Keith Black in Glory of the Seas 1869 by rwiederrich - FINISHED - 1/96 - medium clipper
It's sure looking good, Rob! Thanks for sharing the build with us.
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