Bob Cleek

Excellent advice from Roger, as usual. Allow me to elaborate a little bit. I live by the maxim, "He who dies with the most tools, wins!" I'm always on the lookout for a tool I need. That said, unless you know you will need it in the future, never buy a tool until you need it and then only buy the best tool you can afford. There are instances where you can get away with cheap tools (Harbor Freight is your friend,) but this is usually a false economy. The most expensive tools are the ones you end up buying more than once. Good tools, especially good hand tools, can last for generations. Stay away from "hobby" sources if you can possibly avoid them. Micro-Mark and Model Expo will often be offering bottom end quality tools at top end prices, and then some. Never overlook the used tool market, as well. There are many bargains to be had searching local "online garage sales" like Craigslist and even eBay, where new and used dental and surgical instruments and tools of varying quality are sold for reasonable prices. 
 
As a general rule, any tool that is marketed as being for use in model shipbuilding will be 1) of poor quality, 2) of questionable usefulness, and 3) a total waste of money. "Choose wisely, Grasshopper." Most of the more useful tools for working in miniature will come from the medical and dental professions and from commercial jewelers' supply houses like Rio Grande (Rio Grande | Wholesale Jewelry Making Supplies & Services - RioGrande) and Otto Frei (OttoFrei.com | Jewelry Tools & Findings Since 1930 — Otto Frei) BTW, Their quality will be higher and their prices often lower. BTW, Otto Frei is currently having an "up to" 20% off sale on Vallorbe Swiss files. The more you buy, the more you save. You will always need Swiss files. The cheap ones from the hobby stores are garbage, though a lot of modelers have never discovered the difference. Real jeweler's files like the quality Vallorbe brand are a different world altogether and, if cared for, last a very long time compared to the cheapo models. You might want to treat yourself to a few.
If you're really frugal, you'd do well to get your fifty bucks back for that rotary tool and buy a couple or three Vallorbe Swiss files. I can't imagine a rotary tool worth spending fifty bucks on because at that price point you can be sure it is junk. (Granted, junk can sometimes last a surprisingly long time, but the odds of that happening are very slim.) Moreover, while there is occasionally a use for a high-speed, low torque rotary tool like the Dremel models, they are not well-suited for working on wood. A rotary tool and assorted burrs and grinding stones is always useful and I'd advise it as a first major purchase powered tool for any modeler. Some research will enable you to decide which rotary tool option is best for you. Besides the Dremel, which I wouldn't advise if you are only going to invest in a single rotary tool, there are the hanging flex-shaft machines exemplified by the higher torque Foredom line, and the "dental engines" of varying types, of which the most useful for modeling is the old high torque, low speed belt driven articulated arm models like your dentist used to drill your cavities. A new Foredom basic flex shaft set up and handpieces will set you back at least five hundred bucks. A new dental engine with a handpiece will easily run more than a grand. Not to worry though. There's always the used market. My Foredom flex shaft and two handpieces cost me $75 off Craigslist. It's an older model, but it runs great and is my primary workhorse rotary tool. My brand new Buffalo Dental Co. dental engine with a handpiece cost me $75 off eBay. There's a story that illustrates the value of keeping your eyes open all the time for tool bargains. The dental engine was listed on eBay as a "steampunk decorator piece" with the disclaimer that it would look cool on display but was "inoperable." It looked unused. I found the manufacturer's website, ascertained that the unit looked complete, save for two belt sheaves and the belt, and that parts were available for it. I PM'd the seller to ask about the item's provenance. He said it came from a dental lab that was closing and had a lot of old stuff to get rid of. He said he'd plugged it in, but it didn't run. I decided to buy it for $75 on the off chance that the engine could be repaired. If not, the handpiece was worth $250 used alone, so I could resell that and come out ahead. When I got the machine, I examined it and discovered both brushes had been removed from the motor. Apparently, this was a new unit in the stockroom that had been "cannibalized" for parts at some point. I ordered the two missing sheaves, a belt, and a set of brushes. I installed the parts and the machine ran like new. Score one new $1,250 dental engine and handpiece for $75!  
 

 
A thread about what tools somebody else out to buy could go on forever. There's nothing like spending other people's money.  Without getting further into the weeds discussing specific tool purchases, I'd urge you to do two things.
 
First, there are several Lady Nelson build logs here, some by quite accomplished modelers (Vossiewulf, for one.) Showing results for '"Lady Nelson"'. - Model Ship World™ Go over those build logs and see what tools those who have built your kit before have used and determine whether you need them for your build. If you haven't studied the build logs for your model, you should certainly do so before starting to build anything.
 
Second, if you haven't already, and you expect to spend any time on this hobby, I suggest you start building your research library. That can become a hobby to last a lifetime in itself, but the longest journey begins with a single step. Get yourself a copy of Frank Mastini's book: Ship Modeling Simplified: Tips and Techniques for Model Construction from Kits: Frank Mastini: 9780071558679: Amazon.com: Books  There are used copies of this book all over eBay for less than the twenty bucks it costs new. This is a primer for beginning ship modelers building models from kits. It is very good for what it is. There are other far more sophisticated books on ship modeling which attract the experienced modeler, but for starting out, this one will be quite helpful.
 
Happy modeling!

At the risk of thread drift, I'll mention that I've found the cheap and readily available magnetic dishes used by auto mechanics to hold small parts are really very handy around the shop. I've got four of them here and there and I try to keep in the habit of using them to hold nuts, bolts, screws, and the like whenever I'm working on taking things apart and the like. They've saved me tons of time that otherwise would have been spent on my hands and knees searching for parts that went walkabout of their own accord. I can't bring myself to criticize a single thing about my Byrnes tools, but I'll "mention in passing" that using them often entails the removal of small grub screws and tiny flathead bolts which make having the factory "replacement parts set" on hand reassuring. 
 
Three bucks from Harbor Freight: 4" Magnetic Parts Tray (harborfreight.com)
 
 

That makes two of us. Apparently, they are indeed what we call "burrs." I wasn't able to find any reference to them as "stump cutters." All Google gave me were advertisements for tree stump removal and tree services.  

Brilliant technique! Thanks for sharing it.
 

Letraset was acquired by Windsor and Newton some time ago. I don't know that they still make letter and number transfer sheets. That technology was one which went the way of the dodo bird when desktop publishing fonts became available. I'm guessing they are no longer made by Letraset since I've seen them offered on eBay as "NOS" ("new old stock") for much more than I ever paid for a sheet back in the day. Perhaps somebody else is manufacturing them, but I haven't noticed them in the art supply stores in some time.
 
"Hot" transfer sheets are easily made if you have, or have access to, an electrostatic (laser) copy machine. The trick is to mirror-reverse that lettering font you want and print that on the "dark" setting. This will give you a mirror image of the type you have chosen imprinted with a thick layer of black toner powder. You can then take that copy and lay it face down on wherever you want the lettering to be transferred and gently go over it with a medium-hot clothes iron. This will melt the toner again so it sticks to the surface of the item you want to attach it to. This takes a bit of experimentation, but works quite well once you perfect the technique.
 
The other alternative is to purchase blank decal sheets which can be run through your home printer to create your own decal sheets.

I have used rub-on dry transfer letters as stencils for painting. I developed this technique when I couldn't find the correct colors for the lettering on a railroad engine model.
 
1. First I paint the surface the desired letter color.
 
2. When that is dry I rub on the letters.
 
3. Then I spray over the letters with the desired surround color.
 
4. After the paint is dry I lift off the rub-ons with masking tape.
 
****
 
The advantages of this technique are:
 
The rub-on letters are relatively thick and stand out on the model surface. The resulting painted letters are just a layer of paint thick.
 
Rub-on letters can peel off when they age. Paint doesn't (shouldn't if painted correctly).
 
You can have any color letters (paint) you want - the colors of rub-on letters are limited. Any color dry transfer letters will work.
 
The paint flows into cracks and uneven surfaces better that dry transfer letters (or water slide decals).
 
You do not have to cover the painted letters with a clear paint coat to prevent them from aging and turning yellow.
 
****
 
Look in craft stores. I have seen large selections of fonts and sizes.

Some idle speculation regarding Bob’s question.
 
The old standbys; AJ Fisher, Model Shipways, etc. offered solid hull kits of subjects based on solid research, particularly the availability of accurate hull lines.  With solid hulls a skilled craftsman was not constrained by the way planks wanted to bend around widely spaced bulkheads. This allowed accurate reproduction of subtle hull shapes.  These kits could and did produce beautiful models of mostly American subjects.
 
In the 1970’s we were invaded by a host of awful POB model kits usually of European manufacture.  This is not just my opinion.  The then Editor of the Nautical Research Journal published a lengthy article titled Piracy on the High C’s decrying the poor quality of these imported kits.  These kits were supported by a first class marketing program.  The subjects, often fictitious, were more exciting than the staid offerings offered by the old American Companies as they often offered  “hook” to a recognized Nautical event.  Why are there so many Titanic kits and so few if any SS United States kits?  The kits also made the nonsensical claim that constructing a POB hull was just like building the real thing.  These kits have improved over the years and several new companies now offer POB kits that build into beautiful, accurate models expanding the appeal of the hobby.  Unfortunately several of the old companies did not improve their offerings and have lost market appeal.
 
A notable exception would appear to be Bluejacket.  They offer POB kits, the POF kits that Bob mentioned, and Solid Hull kits.  Their new USS Olympia kit is Solid hull and they presently have a Solid hull Coast Guard vessel under development.
 
And last, a recent photo of an AJ Fisher kit completed over 80 years by my father.  A solid hill kit; 1:96 scale.
 

 
 

The next BJ kit, a 1/192 scale NS SAVANNAH (which I have already started) will also be a solid hull.  The bulk of the superstructure will comprise lifts, so essentially it will be solid, as well.

Perhaps Mr. BluJacket can answer a question that's been niggling my mind for some time: What happened to the solid-hull ship model kits. Time was, all kits were solid hull, roughed out on carving duplicating machines. I know there some of these duplicating carving machines that ended up in post-war surplus sales. They'd been used to produce rifle stocks back in the day when the military issued quality hand-fettled machined firearms instead of stamped metal and plastic like today. I heard they were dandy for shaping ship model hulls. Like mank oldsters, I cut my teeth and then some on those solid hull models.
 
Somewhere along the line, the solid hulls started to disappear and be replaced by plank on bulkhead and plank on frame models. The frist POF models I can recall were open framed models produced by Bluejacket, I believe. I remember a model of America designed by Portia Takakjian, I think, that yielded a model in the quasi-Admiralty Board style with open frames below the waterline which was beautiful. That was understandable, but I never got the point of planking a model hull that wasn't intended to show open frames. Today, it seems every kit is POB or POF with single or double planking, even the iron ships. I can't see any reason why anybody would ever want to plank up a hull that wasn't going to show partial construction details. I pity the poor novice modelers who struggle with planking when there's no reason for them to do so. 
 
Do you know why this affinity for POF and POB hull construction has crowded out the solid hull kits?  Did the old duplicating carving machines wear out? Is a flat box much less expensive to stock and ship?  Were the planked hulls more attractive to people who buy ship model kits (who aren't always nor perhaps not even often, people who know anything about ship modeling? Enquiring minds want to know. 
 
 

And a long one at that. BlueJacket alone has over 80 current kits, and 100's more from the past.

Bob, I picked up that book used on Amazon for $10, and a used copy of planking techniques on ebay for $6. The one you recommended will be here tomorrow, so that'll be a nice read as I (patiently) wait for my model to arrive. Thanks again for the advice. 
 
Chris

That travel iron looks like a real antique. I note it was "Made in Japan" long before everything was made in China. It's gotta be sixty years old if it's a day.  

Excellent advice from Roger, as usual. Allow me to elaborate a little bit. I live by the maxim, "He who dies with the most tools, wins!" I'm always on the lookout for a tool I need. That said, unless you know you will need it in the future, never buy a tool until you need it and then only buy the best tool you can afford. There are instances where you can get away with cheap tools (Harbor Freight is your friend,) but this is usually a false economy. The most expensive tools are the ones you end up buying more than once. Good tools, especially good hand tools, can last for generations. Stay away from "hobby" sources if you can possibly avoid them. Micro-Mark and Model Expo will often be offering bottom end quality tools at top end prices, and then some. Never overlook the used tool market, as well. There are many bargains to be had searching local "online garage sales" like Craigslist and even eBay, where new and used dental and surgical instruments and tools of varying quality are sold for reasonable prices. 
 
As a general rule, any tool that is marketed as being for use in model shipbuilding will be 1) of poor quality, 2) of questionable usefulness, and 3) a total waste of money. "Choose wisely, Grasshopper." Most of the more useful tools for working in miniature will come from the medical and dental professions and from commercial jewelers' supply houses like Rio Grande (Rio Grande | Wholesale Jewelry Making Supplies & Services - RioGrande) and Otto Frei (OttoFrei.com | Jewelry Tools & Findings Since 1930 — Otto Frei) BTW, Their quality will be higher and their prices often lower. BTW, Otto Frei is currently having an "up to" 20% off sale on Vallorbe Swiss files. The more you buy, the more you save. You will always need Swiss files. The cheap ones from the hobby stores are garbage, though a lot of modelers have never discovered the difference. Real jeweler's files like the quality Vallorbe brand are a different world altogether and, if cared for, last a very long time compared to the cheapo models. You might want to treat yourself to a few.
If you're really frugal, you'd do well to get your fifty bucks back for that rotary tool and buy a couple or three Vallorbe Swiss files. I can't imagine a rotary tool worth spending fifty bucks on because at that price point you can be sure it is junk. (Granted, junk can sometimes last a surprisingly long time, but the odds of that happening are very slim.) Moreover, while there is occasionally a use for a high-speed, low torque rotary tool like the Dremel models, they are not well-suited for working on wood. A rotary tool and assorted burrs and grinding stones is always useful and I'd advise it as a first major purchase powered tool for any modeler. Some research will enable you to decide which rotary tool option is best for you. Besides the Dremel, which I wouldn't advise if you are only going to invest in a single rotary tool, there are the hanging flex-shaft machines exemplified by the higher torque Foredom line, and the "dental engines" of varying types, of which the most useful for modeling is the old high torque, low speed belt driven articulated arm models like your dentist used to drill your cavities. A new Foredom basic flex shaft set up and handpieces will set you back at least five hundred bucks. A new dental engine with a handpiece will easily run more than a grand. Not to worry though. There's always the used market. My Foredom flex shaft and two handpieces cost me $75 off Craigslist. It's an older model, but it runs great and is my primary workhorse rotary tool. My brand new Buffalo Dental Co. dental engine with a handpiece cost me $75 off eBay. There's a story that illustrates the value of keeping your eyes open all the time for tool bargains. The dental engine was listed on eBay as a "steampunk decorator piece" with the disclaimer that it would look cool on display but was "inoperable." It looked unused. I found the manufacturer's website, ascertained that the unit looked complete, save for two belt sheaves and the belt, and that parts were available for it. I PM'd the seller to ask about the item's provenance. He said it came from a dental lab that was closing and had a lot of old stuff to get rid of. He said he'd plugged it in, but it didn't run. I decided to buy it for $75 on the off chance that the engine could be repaired. If not, the handpiece was worth $250 used alone, so I could resell that and come out ahead. When I got the machine, I examined it and discovered both brushes had been removed from the motor. Apparently, this was a new unit in the stockroom that had been "cannibalized" for parts at some point. I ordered the two missing sheaves, a belt, and a set of brushes. I installed the parts and the machine ran like new. Score one new $1,250 dental engine and handpiece for $75!  
 

 
A thread about what tools somebody else out to buy could go on forever. There's nothing like spending other people's money.  Without getting further into the weeds discussing specific tool purchases, I'd urge you to do two things.
 
First, there are several Lady Nelson build logs here, some by quite accomplished modelers (Vossiewulf, for one.) Showing results for '"Lady Nelson"'. - Model Ship World™ Go over those build logs and see what tools those who have built your kit before have used and determine whether you need them for your build. If you haven't studied the build logs for your model, you should certainly do so before starting to build anything.
 
Second, if you haven't already, and you expect to spend any time on this hobby, I suggest you start building your research library. That can become a hobby to last a lifetime in itself, but the longest journey begins with a single step. Get yourself a copy of Frank Mastini's book: Ship Modeling Simplified: Tips and Techniques for Model Construction from Kits: Frank Mastini: 9780071558679: Amazon.com: Books  There are used copies of this book all over eBay for less than the twenty bucks it costs new. This is a primer for beginning ship modelers building models from kits. It is very good for what it is. There are other far more sophisticated books on ship modeling which attract the experienced modeler, but for starting out, this one will be quite helpful.
 
Happy modeling!

That travel iron looks like a real antique. I note it was "Made in Japan" long before everything was made in China. It's gotta be sixty years old if it's a day.  

I think anybody who recommended Chuck's method and appreciates quality vintage can appreciate this antique store find today. Practically NIB, hope it enjoys its new-found purpose. 

Really great advice here. @jpalmer1970 mentioned rubber bands. I have rubber bands that I cut into strips. I use hemostats to clamp the ends of the bands once I've positioned them.
 
@Bob Cleek mentioned get the best tools you can afford. Take this advice to heart! I kick myself every time I try to save money and go with a cheap tool. I bought a box of cheap plastic clamps that I ended up throwing away because they were more frustrating than useful.
 
I use single-edge razor blades quite a bit. I use them for trimming and to score planks to simulate where the ends meet.
 
 
 

While trying to find some information on an old kit I had the thought that someone might want to make a list of all the old manufactures and kits.  Old catalogs and advertisements would seem to be the best sources of information.  I don't have the time for it but I would be happy to contribute a couple of older catalogs to anyone who wanted to under take something like that.

Mixing paint sounds pretty righteous to me. Channel some Bob Ross with some titanium WHite and beat the devil out of my brushes (carefully).

Quite so! When you get to thinking about paint, perhaps some of us can convince you to take a pass on super expensive pre-mixed hobby shop paints and mix your own from artists' oils. You'll want an airbrush later on, too, but that's a story for another night.
 
Keep your eyes peeled at those garage sales and flea markets. You just never know when you might trip over an old school jeweler's lathe with all its tooling for a price you can afford or even a Unimat SL or Myford 7 modeler's lathe with attachments and tooling.

Quite so! When you get to thinking about paint, perhaps some of us can convince you to take a pass on super expensive pre-mixed hobby shop paints and mix your own from artists' oils. You'll want an airbrush later on, too, but that's a story for another night.
 
Keep your eyes peeled at those garage sales and flea markets. You just never know when you might trip over an old school jeweler's lathe with all its tooling for a price you can afford or even a Unimat SL or Myford 7 modeler's lathe with attachments and tooling.

Quite so! When you get to thinking about paint, perhaps some of us can convince you to take a pass on super expensive pre-mixed hobby shop paints and mix your own from artists' oils. You'll want an airbrush later on, too, but that's a story for another night.
 
Keep your eyes peeled at those garage sales and flea markets. You just never know when you might trip over an old school jeweler's lathe with all its tooling for a price you can afford or even a Unimat SL or Myford 7 modeler's lathe with attachments and tooling.

Excellent advice from Roger, as usual. Allow me to elaborate a little bit. I live by the maxim, "He who dies with the most tools, wins!" I'm always on the lookout for a tool I need. That said, unless you know you will need it in the future, never buy a tool until you need it and then only buy the best tool you can afford. There are instances where you can get away with cheap tools (Harbor Freight is your friend,) but this is usually a false economy. The most expensive tools are the ones you end up buying more than once. Good tools, especially good hand tools, can last for generations. Stay away from "hobby" sources if you can possibly avoid them. Micro-Mark and Model Expo will often be offering bottom end quality tools at top end prices, and then some. Never overlook the used tool market, as well. There are many bargains to be had searching local "online garage sales" like Craigslist and even eBay, where new and used dental and surgical instruments and tools of varying quality are sold for reasonable prices. 
 
As a general rule, any tool that is marketed as being for use in model shipbuilding will be 1) of poor quality, 2) of questionable usefulness, and 3) a total waste of money. "Choose wisely, Grasshopper." Most of the more useful tools for working in miniature will come from the medical and dental professions and from commercial jewelers' supply houses like Rio Grande (Rio Grande | Wholesale Jewelry Making Supplies & Services - RioGrande) and Otto Frei (OttoFrei.com | Jewelry Tools & Findings Since 1930 — Otto Frei) BTW, Their quality will be higher and their prices often lower. BTW, Otto Frei is currently having an "up to" 20% off sale on Vallorbe Swiss files. The more you buy, the more you save. You will always need Swiss files. The cheap ones from the hobby stores are garbage, though a lot of modelers have never discovered the difference. Real jeweler's files like the quality Vallorbe brand are a different world altogether and, if cared for, last a very long time compared to the cheapo models. You might want to treat yourself to a few.
If you're really frugal, you'd do well to get your fifty bucks back for that rotary tool and buy a couple or three Vallorbe Swiss files. I can't imagine a rotary tool worth spending fifty bucks on because at that price point you can be sure it is junk. (Granted, junk can sometimes last a surprisingly long time, but the odds of that happening are very slim.) Moreover, while there is occasionally a use for a high-speed, low torque rotary tool like the Dremel models, they are not well-suited for working on wood. A rotary tool and assorted burrs and grinding stones is always useful and I'd advise it as a first major purchase powered tool for any modeler. Some research will enable you to decide which rotary tool option is best for you. Besides the Dremel, which I wouldn't advise if you are only going to invest in a single rotary tool, there are the hanging flex-shaft machines exemplified by the higher torque Foredom line, and the "dental engines" of varying types, of which the most useful for modeling is the old high torque, low speed belt driven articulated arm models like your dentist used to drill your cavities. A new Foredom basic flex shaft set up and handpieces will set you back at least five hundred bucks. A new dental engine with a handpiece will easily run more than a grand. Not to worry though. There's always the used market. My Foredom flex shaft and two handpieces cost me $75 off Craigslist. It's an older model, but it runs great and is my primary workhorse rotary tool. My brand new Buffalo Dental Co. dental engine with a handpiece cost me $75 off eBay. There's a story that illustrates the value of keeping your eyes open all the time for tool bargains. The dental engine was listed on eBay as a "steampunk decorator piece" with the disclaimer that it would look cool on display but was "inoperable." It looked unused. I found the manufacturer's website, ascertained that the unit looked complete, save for two belt sheaves and the belt, and that parts were available for it. I PM'd the seller to ask about the item's provenance. He said it came from a dental lab that was closing and had a lot of old stuff to get rid of. He said he'd plugged it in, but it didn't run. I decided to buy it for $75 on the off chance that the engine could be repaired. If not, the handpiece was worth $250 used alone, so I could resell that and come out ahead. When I got the machine, I examined it and discovered both brushes had been removed from the motor. Apparently, this was a new unit in the stockroom that had been "cannibalized" for parts at some point. I ordered the two missing sheaves, a belt, and a set of brushes. I installed the parts and the machine ran like new. Score one new $1,250 dental engine and handpiece for $75!  
 

 
A thread about what tools somebody else out to buy could go on forever. There's nothing like spending other people's money.  Without getting further into the weeds discussing specific tool purchases, I'd urge you to do two things.
 
First, there are several Lady Nelson build logs here, some by quite accomplished modelers (Vossiewulf, for one.) Showing results for '"Lady Nelson"'. - Model Ship World™ Go over those build logs and see what tools those who have built your kit before have used and determine whether you need them for your build. If you haven't studied the build logs for your model, you should certainly do so before starting to build anything.
 
Second, if you haven't already, and you expect to spend any time on this hobby, I suggest you start building your research library. That can become a hobby to last a lifetime in itself, but the longest journey begins with a single step. Get yourself a copy of Frank Mastini's book: Ship Modeling Simplified: Tips and Techniques for Model Construction from Kits: Frank Mastini: 9780071558679: Amazon.com: Books  There are used copies of this book all over eBay for less than the twenty bucks it costs new. This is a primer for beginning ship modelers building models from kits. It is very good for what it is. There are other far more sophisticated books on ship modeling which attract the experienced modeler, but for starting out, this one will be quite helpful.
 
Happy modeling!

Excellent advice from Roger, as usual. Allow me to elaborate a little bit. I live by the maxim, "He who dies with the most tools, wins!" I'm always on the lookout for a tool I need. That said, unless you know you will need it in the future, never buy a tool until you need it and then only buy the best tool you can afford. There are instances where you can get away with cheap tools (Harbor Freight is your friend,) but this is usually a false economy. The most expensive tools are the ones you end up buying more than once. Good tools, especially good hand tools, can last for generations. Stay away from "hobby" sources if you can possibly avoid them. Micro-Mark and Model Expo will often be offering bottom end quality tools at top end prices, and then some. Never overlook the used tool market, as well. There are many bargains to be had searching local "online garage sales" like Craigslist and even eBay, where new and used dental and surgical instruments and tools of varying quality are sold for reasonable prices. 
 
As a general rule, any tool that is marketed as being for use in model shipbuilding will be 1) of poor quality, 2) of questionable usefulness, and 3) a total waste of money. "Choose wisely, Grasshopper." Most of the more useful tools for working in miniature will come from the medical and dental professions and from commercial jewelers' supply houses like Rio Grande (Rio Grande | Wholesale Jewelry Making Supplies & Services - RioGrande) and Otto Frei (OttoFrei.com | Jewelry Tools & Findings Since 1930 — Otto Frei) BTW, Their quality will be higher and their prices often lower. BTW, Otto Frei is currently having an "up to" 20% off sale on Vallorbe Swiss files. The more you buy, the more you save. You will always need Swiss files. The cheap ones from the hobby stores are garbage, though a lot of modelers have never discovered the difference. Real jeweler's files like the quality Vallorbe brand are a different world altogether and, if cared for, last a very long time compared to the cheapo models. You might want to treat yourself to a few.
If you're really frugal, you'd do well to get your fifty bucks back for that rotary tool and buy a couple or three Vallorbe Swiss files. I can't imagine a rotary tool worth spending fifty bucks on because at that price point you can be sure it is junk. (Granted, junk can sometimes last a surprisingly long time, but the odds of that happening are very slim.) Moreover, while there is occasionally a use for a high-speed, low torque rotary tool like the Dremel models, they are not well-suited for working on wood. A rotary tool and assorted burrs and grinding stones is always useful and I'd advise it as a first major purchase powered tool for any modeler. Some research will enable you to decide which rotary tool option is best for you. Besides the Dremel, which I wouldn't advise if you are only going to invest in a single rotary tool, there are the hanging flex-shaft machines exemplified by the higher torque Foredom line, and the "dental engines" of varying types, of which the most useful for modeling is the old high torque, low speed belt driven articulated arm models like your dentist used to drill your cavities. A new Foredom basic flex shaft set up and handpieces will set you back at least five hundred bucks. A new dental engine with a handpiece will easily run more than a grand. Not to worry though. There's always the used market. My Foredom flex shaft and two handpieces cost me $75 off Craigslist. It's an older model, but it runs great and is my primary workhorse rotary tool. My brand new Buffalo Dental Co. dental engine with a handpiece cost me $75 off eBay. There's a story that illustrates the value of keeping your eyes open all the time for tool bargains. The dental engine was listed on eBay as a "steampunk decorator piece" with the disclaimer that it would look cool on display but was "inoperable." It looked unused. I found the manufacturer's website, ascertained that the unit looked complete, save for two belt sheaves and the belt, and that parts were available for it. I PM'd the seller to ask about the item's provenance. He said it came from a dental lab that was closing and had a lot of old stuff to get rid of. He said he'd plugged it in, but it didn't run. I decided to buy it for $75 on the off chance that the engine could be repaired. If not, the handpiece was worth $250 used alone, so I could resell that and come out ahead. When I got the machine, I examined it and discovered both brushes had been removed from the motor. Apparently, this was a new unit in the stockroom that had been "cannibalized" for parts at some point. I ordered the two missing sheaves, a belt, and a set of brushes. I installed the parts and the machine ran like new. Score one new $1,250 dental engine and handpiece for $75!  
 

 
A thread about what tools somebody else out to buy could go on forever. There's nothing like spending other people's money.  Without getting further into the weeds discussing specific tool purchases, I'd urge you to do two things.
 
First, there are several Lady Nelson build logs here, some by quite accomplished modelers (Vossiewulf, for one.) Showing results for '"Lady Nelson"'. - Model Ship World™ Go over those build logs and see what tools those who have built your kit before have used and determine whether you need them for your build. If you haven't studied the build logs for your model, you should certainly do so before starting to build anything.
 
Second, if you haven't already, and you expect to spend any time on this hobby, I suggest you start building your research library. That can become a hobby to last a lifetime in itself, but the longest journey begins with a single step. Get yourself a copy of Frank Mastini's book: Ship Modeling Simplified: Tips and Techniques for Model Construction from Kits: Frank Mastini: 9780071558679: Amazon.com: Books  There are used copies of this book all over eBay for less than the twenty bucks it costs new. This is a primer for beginning ship modelers building models from kits. It is very good for what it is. There are other far more sophisticated books on ship modeling which attract the experienced modeler, but for starting out, this one will be quite helpful.
 
Happy modeling!

Rotary tools:  I do not use rotary tools for wooden construction for two reasons.
 
First, a mishandled rotary tool can do an enormous amount of damage in an instant, particularly with the soft woods supplied with kits.  Instead I use needle files and very small rifflers whenever possible.
 
Second, hobby grade rotary tools are high speed low torque machines.  They run at MUCH higher speeds than tools designed for drilling.  The centrifugal force created can instantly fling a small wire size drill away from the hole that you are trying to drill.  The archimedes  type drill recommended by Wefalck is a better choice.  If you must use a powered drilling tool, buy one especially designed for this purpose.
 
These recommendations from MSW members, including me, are all influenced by personal work habits sometimes developed over decades.  As such they reflect individual strengths, limitations, and interests.  They may not reflect the, way that you want or are able to work.  Rather than spending a lot more money on tools, I suggest that you get busy building your model and buy additional tools as needed.
 
Roger

At the risk of thread drift, I'll mention that I've found the cheap and readily available magnetic dishes used by auto mechanics to hold small parts are really very handy around the shop. I've got four of them here and there and I try to keep in the habit of using them to hold nuts, bolts, screws, and the like whenever I'm working on taking things apart and the like. They've saved me tons of time that otherwise would have been spent on my hands and knees searching for parts that went walkabout of their own accord. I can't bring myself to criticize a single thing about my Byrnes tools, but I'll "mention in passing" that using them often entails the removal of small grub screws and tiny flathead bolts which make having the factory "replacement parts set" on hand reassuring. 
 
Three bucks from Harbor Freight: 4" Magnetic Parts Tray (harborfreight.com)