Bob Cleek

Ah ha! Why didn't you say so?  
 
I'd say your Dewalt scroll saw covers all the bases on any curved cuts you'd ever encounter making models. Have you tried making "dead straight cuts in 1/2-1 inch hardwood" on your Byrnes saw? I regularly run seasoned oak for making case frame stock through mine with no problems at all. The Byrnes saw may have a maximum cut depth of a smidgen less than an inch, but that's not a problem. All that needs be done is to flip the piece over and make a second cut on the other side and you can realize a depth of cut of at least an inch and three-quarters off the Byrnes saw. I have a Delta 3hp Unisaw and it's a scary beast, too. I avoid it like the plague for small work. My Byrnes takes over where my nerve leaves off!  

Band saws aren't really a tool designed to make "dead straight cuts." I know they are all sold with four-inch tall flat-sided fences these days, so I suppose they've gotten better over time, but I can't remember any bandsaw I ever saw in a commercial shop having a fence on it. (Nor did any table saw ever have a blade guard, come to think of it!) Band saws are primarily for cutting curves. They are also used for resawing, but bandsaw blades have a tendency to "wander" or cut at an angle and not want to cut in a straight line. You really have to fiddle with them to get one to want to cut dead straight. For resawing, I've always used a shop-made "guide." I take a piece of wood sufficiently high to support the plank to be resawed and I cut a "pointed" end on it. Sometimes that requires that a taller pointed edge for resawing so the plank can be supported perfectly vertical against the point and so the pointed piece has to be supported on a flat base. The "point" guide is clamped to the table with the point exactly as far from the teeth of the blade as I want the width of the resawn piece to be and just a smidgen before the point of the blade. I run a mortice gauge down the length of the piece to mark the width of the cut I want to make. Then I rest the plank on edge on the table and against the point and feed it into the  blade, following the cut line marked with the mortise gauge. In this fashion, when my bandsaw blade wants to cut at an angle (as most seem to,) I can feed the plank through at that angle, having pivoted the plank to accommodate the blade's whim. It seems to me that is a better approach than trying to get a blade that wants to run through at a slight angle to cut a straight line by holding the plank against a long flat fence. (I don't expect the resaw cut to be perfect, so I cut a bit wide of the line, expecting to run the piece through my thickness planer or, for small stuff, my Byrnes thickness sander. 
 
From what you've described in terms of tools on hand, you may want to do some experimenting and see if you really need a bandsaw at all, considering that you have access to your friend the cabinetmaker. Just sayin'. Maybe I'm just an old luddite, the methods described work for me, for model-sized work, at least. Your mileage may differ, but you may be able to save yourself spending the money on a bandsaw you may not need by using the excellent selection of capable tools you already have.

Why a 10" bandsaw if you will only be cutting 1" thick plank stock and won't be resawing? If that is all you are intending to use it for, it would seem you'd get by just fine with a saber saw or even a quality scroll saw, which would be far more useful for modeling purposes than a bandsaw of any kind.
 
On the other hand, if it is a bandsaw you want, despite the fact that you'd pay half again as much for it, you'd be getting far, far, more saw for the money buying a standard 14" 1hp bandsaw from a quality retailer like Grizzly. The Classic 14" Bandsaw at Grizzly.com The "classic" fourteen-incher is the highest rated and most popular bandsaw in its class and will cut thicker material and resaw just fine if you ever find the need. (Like if your cabinetmaker friend moves away.) The Grizzly is probably made in the same Chinese factory as the Jet, as well. If the extra $300 or so bothers you, consider that saving up that little bit more will provide you with a bandsaw that will hold its value much better and be easily marketable if you want to get rid of it someday. Because these are so popular, there is a ton of after-market blades, belts, and other parts and accessories available for them. Alternately, you can usually easily find one on the used market for a reasonable price and, if necessary, they are easily tuned up and rehabilitated if need be.
 
It really depends on what you want to do with it. If you are only going to be cutting 1" thick plank stock, I'd expect you'd do much better spending your money on a scroll saw that will cut rings around (and inside) anything a bandsaw can do, even with a narrow blade.

As a life-long woodworker, you are well on your way to success, but be forewarned, aside from rigging and painting, there's very little similarity between plastic and wood kits. One assembles a plastic kit, but one must build a wooden kit. Wooden kits require far more time, and skill, to complete than plastic kits. If you "go big from the start," and if you are like most wooden ship kit builders, you can expect to spend as much as a year, or more building a wooden "tall ship" model from a kit. It can quickly become a daunting task that no longer is much fun. Then the enterprise is abandoned, and you become another novice who's bit the dust. 
 
Not to be pedantic, and certainly not wishing to dampen your enthusiasm for building a wooden kit model one bit, I must say, if you haven't already, you would do well to read the following thread before doing anything impulsive in buying a wooden model ship kit.:
After that, I'd urge you to read the following detailed building instructions ("practicums") by Chuck Passaro, a master modeler and forum member, in order to get a good idea of what is involved in building a rather simple, but not "dumbed down" kit of an 18th Century pinnace, and an intermediate difficulty level model of an American Colonial square rigged schooner:
 
BuildingAn18thCenturyPinnace.pdf (thenrg.org)
 
ColonialSchoonerSultana.pdf (thenrg.org)
 
If you're not thoroughly intimidated at that point, read the following general article on what to expect in a wooden ship model kit:
 
Nautical Research Guild - Article - Model Ship Kits (thenrg.org)
 
Thereafter, you may wish to read any number of the instructional articles in the "Articles" drop-down menu in the forum's caption:
 
Nautical Research Guild - Articles and How Tos (thenrg.org)
 
As will most any experienced wooden ship modeler, I will repeat the suggestion that you "start small" and do not let your "ego overrule your brain when the time comes to purchase my first wood model." Your first (or second and third) kit doesn't necessarily need to be a "beginner's model," but you should beware of letting yourself get ahead of the necessary learning curve before dropping a grand on a poor quality HMS Victory kit. A relatively simple model doesn't not need to be crude. If done well, even a model of an 18th Century ship's boat can be a thing of great beauty and pride of accomplishment. Because you do have your skills from plastic kit modeling and extensive woodworking experience, may I suggest you consider for your first venture into modeling ships in wood and bits of string and metal, Syren Ship Models' kit of the HMS Medway's longboat of 1742. See: Medway Longboat (1742) (syrenshipmodelcompany.com) This isn't a "beginner's model," but rather an intermediate to advanced level challenge, so your ego will not be compromised in the least, The instructions for building this plank on frame model are on the linked page as well, so you will be able to see the magnitude of the work involved and the challenges that may be encountered in building this really elegant model. Not only does Syren Ship Models offer some of the best model kits around, but more importantly, in my opinion, at least, Syren offers the best building instructions around which I think is often the most important feature to consider when selecting a kit. (And, believe me, some of the kit model instructions are real nightmares!) I believe there are also some "build logs" of this model on the forum.
 
 

Syren Ship Model Company|Boxwood ship model rigging blocks|Ship Model rigging rope |turned brass cannon| Chuck Passaro

Thanks very much Bob, seriously.  Everything you have listed here will be worth my time and study before I make my final decision. The time factor does not dampen my enthusiasm. The Heller HMS Victory I built (here on MSW) took me almost 2 years to build to include a lot of modifications I made with enhancements found on line and of course the extensive authentic rigging. The Heller Le Soleil Royal I am currently building (here on MSW) has moved into my 6th month with at least a full year to go!   Actually that is part of my desire for an attempt at a wooden model. I want a new challenge that will not be completed in a short period of time. I thoroughly enjoy the adventure more than the completion setting in a display case. I don’t know if you are familiar with OcCre wooden ship models. I have received a number of recommendations for their ships, especially the Endeavor which prices around $400. The reviews are very complimentary of the quality of parts, clear and precise instructions, and availability of customer service. That ship is currently where I am leaning. Of course I will be deep into my Soleil Royal for quite some time to come. This will give me plenty of time to read and study the material and recommendations you and others have provided me before making a decision. Again thanks so much. Very much appreciated. Please feel free to add any additional thoughts and comments you think might be helpful. 
 
Bill

Indeed.  So, logically, the style of boats should be whatever was current in the year that I think the voyage begins.

Whaling voyages could run for years once the New England fleet had to hunt in the Pacific. Ships were outfitted anew for each voyage and customarily would carry new, or at least very lightly used, whaleboats for each voyage. It made no sense to carry anything but new or relatively new boats on a years-long voyage. The same went for all the other gear, as well.

Bob,
 
While the board feet in the log might not be worth $100,000, by the time they go through the selection process, then get a long log like that into the shop and do the processing into a mast the total cost might well be that high.

There seems to be two sources. One, the original, in the British National Archives at Kew and the other, the same captured code book, in copy form from the Dreadnaught Project website. (Apparently, you have to sign up for that forum to get access to it.)
 
Signal code book (Signalbuch der Kaiserlichen Marine (SKM) copy no 151) captured from... | The National Archives
 
Imperial German Navy Code Books - The Dreadnought Project
 
Hope this helps. 

Traditional scale model ship building using traditional materials, primarily wood, scale rigging cordage, and non-ferrous metal fittings is an artistic discipline in and of itself which goes back at least as far as the Pharaohs. Those traditional materials have archival qualities that enable them to last for hundreds, if not thousands, of years. Few of us will ever build a model that will survive that long, but as a goal, it's something to strive for. Styrene and most other plastics, on the other hand, often deteriorate in a matter of decades, at best.  Building a plastic kit model yields a model that will be virtually identical to how many others there are in the same production run, save for the painting and weathering skills of the modeler. A scratch-built model is unique and can be the only model ever built of a particular vessel, thereby having the potential to be valued as a three-dimensional historical record of that particular vessel. Many find particular satisfaction in scratch-building for that reason. If one enjoys building models of any material or type they should pursue that hobby as long as it entertains them. It's really a matter of taste that dictates how any ship modeler choses to pursue the hobby.

True dat! In the late '70's, I lived in the mixed second growth redwood and Doug fir coastal forest in Northern CA, I remember seeing huge redwoods harvested, too, but nothing like what they were cutting in the late 1800's. I looked it up and discovered that today only 29 sawmills remain in California, along with eight sawmills that are still standing but inactive. In addition, there are 112 sites in California where sawmills once operated. The NWP RR out of Eureka that primarily hauled milled redwood south is no more and the semi's hauling milled lumber are getting scarcer. The monster Georgia Pacific mill in Fort Bragg is no longer operating. We still see some redwoods and Doug firs getting hauled north to the few small mills still operating, but it's "odds and ends" from one or two felled at a time or deadfalls. In the '70's we still had log trucks with three or four trunks on them, but now it's almost always small stuff. I think the big trees are being cut up in Canada now days. (And thanks to climate change, there's tons of dead yellow cedar standing all along the coast from BC to Alaska, fully dried and dead standing is still harvestable for about 90 years, but nobody seems to be able to get to it to harvest it economically.)
 
The $100,000 value of the pictured Doug fir was the quote from the website and it may be their exaggeration. I don't know diddly about the value of raw timber, but from what they said, it was a VERY special tree. In order to turn a tree into a mast, the tree has to be perfect. The growth rings, which taper successively smaller from bottom to top, have to be really straight grained and tapered the same rate as the mast so that there's no grain runout when it's turned. It also has to be as relatively knot- and defect-free as possible. They have to find the tree standing, get a permit to cut it, and go in and fell it and haul it out without damaging the wood. The economies of harvesting in quantity don't apply. As you know, that's really prime stuff. Way too good for two by fours!
 
From this:
 

 
 
To this:
 

 
 
To this.
 

 
 
From 1970's:
 

 
To 2020's:

 
So it goes.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Whaling voyages could run for years once the New England fleet had to hunt in the Pacific. Ships were outfitted anew for each voyage and customarily would carry new, or at least very lightly used, whaleboats for each voyage. It made no sense to carry anything but new or relatively new boats on a years-long voyage. The same went for all the other gear, as well.

There seems to be two sources. One, the original, in the British National Archives at Kew and the other, the same captured code book, in copy form from the Dreadnaught Project website. (Apparently, you have to sign up for that forum to get access to it.)
 
Signal code book (Signalbuch der Kaiserlichen Marine (SKM) copy no 151) captured from... | The National Archives
 
Imperial German Navy Code Books - The Dreadnought Project
 
Hope this helps. 

Thanks your encouragement along the way has been great. Looking forward to watching you complete your Leopard. Plans for the CWM are being packed up for your next build. 
 
Note: I did find something else to add to the Morgan. Flags! She can’t sail without flags! Maybe just the Pendant up top, since she doesn’t have sails. There’s that OCD kicking in again. 😆


 
 

It appears the German National Archives/Military Archives have a copy of a draft of  1913:
 
https://www.archivportal-d.de/item/WEHKZZSMAUE3JZGYZHVH4HNR33ZNBEON?lang=en
 
As well as a copy of the 1911 version:
 
https://www.archivportal-d.de/item/QZXZLRGQESUACWL5IDGVTJYGXRXXYPYN
 
An overview over the different German siganl codes since 1800 is given in this (German only) publication, for which an overview is available in PDF:
 
https://dmkn.de/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Signalflaggen.pdf
 
I didn't see (so far) any digital copy of the code-books themselves.
 
P.S. The code-book in the British National Archives presumably is the one offered to the British on 31 October 1914. It was found on board of SMS MAGDEBURG which ran aground at the coast of Estland. The crew attempted to blow her up, but were only partially successful. Two code-books were found on her, after the remaining crew were taken POW, and a third one that was thrown overboard with some lead attached to it was recovered by Russian divers. These code-books allowed to the Russians and the Western Allies to read the naval communication throughout WWI I think - the loss of the code-books must not have been reported properly to the Admiralty, as all the officers were taken POW (Source: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/SMS_Magdeburg_(1911)). 

my point of view only, Im having a hard time seeing the screen, Plastic kits are nice, every thing is already made, cut it loose from the die tree and paint it place it its good to go. wooden kits are good to, You pop out the precut pieces and paint them glue them and its good to go, a lot of detail work included . they are both good , for beginners and advanced. 
     then there the ones like me, I would buy the plans of a wooden ship, have them enlarged to 300 to 400% and built that from scratch.
This is not for the faint of heart, you have to plot everything, cut sand, through that one away and start another one. . BUT a hull thats 7 foot to 8 foot long has its advantages too. I can use air tools C-clamps of different sizes. power sanders and high speed cut off tools .
even an air Nailer . using 1 inch brads works very well for me,,, when I was doing it . I cant do it any more, I can hardly see the plans 
even up close , they get so fussy.  The last model I was building I was using 5/8 inch plywood for the  hull  and a powered jig saw to cut everything
there is a build log I stared hee but had to stop, Niagara  1 to 7 scale , cant ype ny more 

I believe that Bluejacket’s kits of steel hulled vessels are solid wood hull, not POB.  These can be built up into attractive and accurate models.
 
Roger

These whaling boats were sort of consumables in fact. They were built in early versions of production lines by specialised builders in New England.
 
They were very lightly built boats to make the easy to row and manoeuvre, but also to create as little waves and noise so as not to startle the whales when approaching them. This made them quite vulnerable to physical damage and the whaling-ships always carried a couple of spare boats and material to repair them.
 
As in the old days, tools typically were the property of the workers themselves, a system that made sure that they cared for them and kept them in a good working order. However, harpoons were also a sort of consumable, because they could easily bend or break in use. Lances less so. The ship would carry a good supply of spares including shafts, as the commercial success of the voyage would depend on their availability. There was also a smithy and a smith on board to help maintain and repair these tools.

He who dies with the most tools wins!  

He who dies with the most tools wins!  

He who dies with the most tools wins!  

Strongly agree. It's important to note that there was quite a bit of evolution occurring with (whaling fishery) whaleboats throughout the 19th Century. If one is modeling a particular whaling ship at a certain date, they should take care to identify the type of whaleboat in use at the time depicted by their model. Planking types varied, some being lapstrake below the waterline and carvel planked above at different times. (The lapstrake planked bottom was intended to give the whalers a handhold on an upturned boat. The carvel planked topsides to provide a quiet entry through the water.) Most notably, in the mid-1850's or so (you can look up the exact date in Ansel's excellent book,) centerboards became common. This was coincidental with the depletion of the right whales and the expansion of the sperm whale fishery. The centerboard permitted the whalers to approach resting sperm whales, which were particularly wary, as stealthily as possible by sailing, rather than rowing upwind upon a pod without spooking them by noise or scent. (One can only imagine the distinctive scent of a whaling man after a few months working on a whaling ship!  ) Thus, if you are modeling whaleboats after about 1850, they should have centerboards; before 1850, not.

And today's internet new vocabulary word of the day award goes to Eberhard!  
 
Thanks for occasioning an interesting educational detour. I learn something new every day!  
 
"In mathematics, a hexadecagon (sometimes called a hexakaidecon or 16-gon) is a sixteen-sided polygon.
A regular hexadecagon is a hexadecagon in which all angles are equal and all sides are congruent. Its Schlafi symbol is {16} and can be constructed as a truncated octagon, t{8}, and a twice-truncated square tt{4}. A truncated hexadecagon, t{16}, is a triacontadigon.
 
Hexadecagon - Wikipedia"
 

 

 
Hexadecagon - Wikipedia

At the end of the Nineteenth Century, at least, they were regularly turning large masts and spars on lathes, as indicated by the documentation posted above. As I recall when Ernie Gann (Fate is the Hunter author) donated the new spars for Hal Sommer's restoration of Wanderbird (Elbe No.5) in the early 'seventies, they came from a couple of Doug firs on Gann's ranch up near Seattle, Washington and were turned on a big spar lathe they still had operating up there. They were then shipped down to Sausalito, California where they were stepped into the vessel. 
 
The largest spar lathe I know of in operation today is up in Aberdeen, Washington. It's got a capacity of 122 feet long and owned by The Spar Shop and is the go-to place for large spars. They have their own forest resources for Doug fir and have done the spars on vessels like Amistad. Spar Shop at the Historical Seaport (woodweb.com)
 
 
A big prime Doug fir like this one is valued in the neighborhood of $100,000! 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Large metal-working lathes, particularly for turning large artillery barrels like the 16" Iowa class battleship guns, were also a standard feature of naval shipyards. A few of these have been picked up as surplus and also have been used to turn masts and spars.
 
Amazing swarf coming off this metal lathe:
 

Good (hard)wood is only to some degree a renewable resource - it takes obviously centuries to replenish it not just decades ... we have taken out too much over the past two or three centuries.

Indeed.   MSW is literally a fount of knowledge.