pete48

Hi Jon, Looking at that posting sure has me wanting to go Sailing, Beautiful work she's looking good
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Hi Michael, That's about what I went with on the first one, on the current one I went with 4" at the transom and 9" at the forward bulkhead ( that's finish without the coamings )
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thanks, Piet, Its all smoke and mirrors, I cheated the metal parts are super glued together, as soon as I use the soldering gun its all over, I make a big melted blob of brass and solder. I did use brass. The Mast is made from 1/4" square stock out of Alder, the Boom is made from basswood. to lay out the mast, I first cut to length, in this case the mast is 24' ( scale ) I then mark the sail slot side of the mast ( this side has no taper ) I then mark and cut the taper on the front of the mast, in this case the taper is 1/8" to 0 from the mast head to the base ( top of the deck ) I then mark and cut the taper on both sides of the mast  wich is 1/16" to 0 from the mast head to the spreaders. Then its a matter of rounding off the edges and giving the leading edge a foil shape ( I leave the sail slot side of the mast alone as this has to remain straight ) I would like to get some Sitka spruce for the Haven mast, I get the Alder from Home Depot ( I try to find the tightest grain possible ) 
 
Thank You, Mark, I am pleased with how the colors turned out, I am going for that Classic look , like you see in Wooden Boat magazine
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Today, I started by sanding the Rub and Toe Rails with 400 grit sandpaper. Then something Patrick said, got me to thinking, so I got out my very small metal working tools and made the bow chain plate Masthead and Gooseneck. I then attached the Bow Chain plate and applied the second coat of varnish. I then turned my attention to making the mast and boom, I then made the spreaders. I went with a slightly larger boom so that I could give it a more performance oriented shape ( similar to that found on a Americas cup Boat pre cat ) The Cockpit coamings and gooseneck have not been installed. Next will be to finish the Mast and boom and get it ready for varnish and a third coat on the Rails. Here are the results 

Thank You, Crackers, She's coming together, Hopefully, the looking better trend will continue
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thank You, Elijah 
 
Thank You, Greg 
 
Thank You, John
 
Thank You, Patrick, A trailer Wow, I don;t think I have the skills to build one ( my metal working skills are terrible) I think I would need to sub that out to Piet ( He's Got some serious skills ) I do enjoy a good Challenge However building a trailer is out of my Wheel house 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Hi druxey, The Cockpit coamings have not been installed yet and are in the photo's to illustrate how it will look, I still have some more work to do to them
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Today, I started by sanding the Rub and Toe Rails with 400 grit sandpaper. Then something Patrick said, got me to thinking, so I got out my very small metal working tools and made the bow chain plate Masthead and Gooseneck. I then attached the Bow Chain plate and applied the second coat of varnish. I then turned my attention to making the mast and boom, I then made the spreaders. I went with a slightly larger boom so that I could give it a more performance oriented shape ( similar to that found on a Americas cup Boat pre cat ) The Cockpit coamings and gooseneck have not been installed. Next will be to finish the Mast and boom and get it ready for varnish and a third coat on the Rails. Here are the results 

Today, I started by sanding the Rub and Toe Rails with 400 grit sandpaper. Then something Patrick said, got me to thinking, so I got out my very small metal working tools and made the bow chain plate Masthead and Gooseneck. I then attached the Bow Chain plate and applied the second coat of varnish. I then turned my attention to making the mast and boom, I then made the spreaders. I went with a slightly larger boom so that I could give it a more performance oriented shape ( similar to that found on a Americas cup Boat pre cat ) The Cockpit coamings and gooseneck have not been installed. Next will be to finish the Mast and boom and get it ready for varnish and a third coat on the Rails. Here are the results 

Hi Pete at the transom it is 6 inches and at the forward bulkhead it is 12 inches.
 
Nils thanks, working in this scale is a great deal of fun The only problem is of course the maximum size of prototype, there is one yacht that i would like to build in this scale but it will be 105 inches at the waterline. So I will have to get all of my other work done first.
 
Deon, Thanks, but don't look too closely, there are little areas that I wish were a bit crisper.
 
Michael

Pete,I haven't seen any really tight grain Sitka for years, we used to be able to get it locally but that was 35 years ago. I do have some very tight grain white spruce, how long do you need?
 
Michael

Thanks, Piet, Its all smoke and mirrors, I cheated the metal parts are super glued together, as soon as I use the soldering gun its all over, I make a big melted blob of brass and solder. I did use brass. The Mast is made from 1/4" square stock out of Alder, the Boom is made from basswood. to lay out the mast, I first cut to length, in this case the mast is 24' ( scale ) I then mark the sail slot side of the mast ( this side has no taper ) I then mark and cut the taper on the front of the mast, in this case the taper is 1/8" to 0 from the mast head to the base ( top of the deck ) I then mark and cut the taper on both sides of the mast  wich is 1/16" to 0 from the mast head to the spreaders. Then its a matter of rounding off the edges and giving the leading edge a foil shape ( I leave the sail slot side of the mast alone as this has to remain straight ) I would like to get some Sitka spruce for the Haven mast, I get the Alder from Home Depot ( I try to find the tightest grain possible ) 
 
Thank You, Mark, I am pleased with how the colors turned out, I am going for that Classic look , like you see in Wooden Boat magazine
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Beautiful work Piet, they look fantastic
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thanks, Piet, Its all smoke and mirrors, I cheated the metal parts are super glued together, as soon as I use the soldering gun its all over, I make a big melted blob of brass and solder. I did use brass. The Mast is made from 1/4" square stock out of Alder, the Boom is made from basswood. to lay out the mast, I first cut to length, in this case the mast is 24' ( scale ) I then mark the sail slot side of the mast ( this side has no taper ) I then mark and cut the taper on the front of the mast, in this case the taper is 1/8" to 0 from the mast head to the base ( top of the deck ) I then mark and cut the taper on both sides of the mast  wich is 1/16" to 0 from the mast head to the spreaders. Then its a matter of rounding off the edges and giving the leading edge a foil shape ( I leave the sail slot side of the mast alone as this has to remain straight ) I would like to get some Sitka spruce for the Haven mast, I get the Alder from Home Depot ( I try to find the tightest grain possible ) 
 
Thank You, Mark, I am pleased with how the colors turned out, I am going for that Classic look , like you see in Wooden Boat magazine
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Today, I started by sanding the Rub and Toe Rails with 400 grit sandpaper. Then something Patrick said, got me to thinking, so I got out my very small metal working tools and made the bow chain plate Masthead and Gooseneck. I then attached the Bow Chain plate and applied the second coat of varnish. I then turned my attention to making the mast and boom, I then made the spreaders. I went with a slightly larger boom so that I could give it a more performance oriented shape ( similar to that found on a Americas cup Boat pre cat ) The Cockpit coamings and gooseneck have not been installed. Next will be to finish the Mast and boom and get it ready for varnish and a third coat on the Rails. Here are the results 

Thanks for the comments and likes.
 
build part 25
 
The first picture shows the bending of the coaming stringer being, I used the heat gun instead of the steam box for this and it worked quite nicely and was much faster than the steaming.
 

 
Next the stringer is placed and held with the single clamp there was no spring in the piece and it located as I had hoped. Once this is glued and all the short cross pieces added I will add some dowels to give added strength.
 

 
The short frames are now glued in place on the port side, and being prepared for fitting on  the starboard.
 

 
Finally they are sanded ready for the dowels, then the deck.
 

 

 
Michael

Thanks for dropping in guys.....
Janos.... Thanks again for the excellent advise.  While I still do not have a goat, I've got my eye on my neighbors little dog with stiff short hair.

 
Hmmmmm!
 
 

Hi Igor
 
 
...I see it, but I still don't believe it...unbelievably good!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

I guess this is a milestone post. The hull is now essentially complete (a few exterior eyebolts to be done during rigging, the anchors and entry rope stanchions, to be done when they won't get in the way).
 
As I indicated in my last update, to finish the deck items, I had to do the bowsprit. My lack of a lathe caused me to make this in a somewhat different way. The bowsprit consists of a tapered round portion and a square section inboard. I chose to dowel and glue a square piece of boxwood to a round dowel and fair it in by sanding. I then tapered  the round portion by sanding, filed in the shoulder and shape of the forward end and drilled and cut in the sheave. The bowsprit was finished by staining the dowel portion golden oak and painting the inboard and most forward portions black.
 
The bowsprit bitts were made from boxwood strip filed to shape with knees cut from boxwood sheet. After temporarily positioning the bowsprit and marking locations, holes were drilled through the bitts and the square portion of the bowsprit for a brass rod to hold the bowsprit in position in the bitts. The bitts were then pinned and glued to the deck, the bowsprit was permanently mounted by inserting the brass rod and boxwood pieces were glued on to cover the holes in the bitts and above the bowsprit.
 
The last deck piece was the windlass. This was made using Chuck's mini kit. I actually had made this up earlier and it took a couple of days to do. It is a marvel of design and engineering. While I believe that I could have done this from scratch, it would have taken me weeks, rather than days, and would not not have looked nearly as good as this. After the windlass was glued in place, I added pawls, made from black painted strip, from the bitts to the windlass gears.
 
For whatever reason, the photos won't attach in the order that I chose, and appear below in random order. They include three that reflect the current state of the model.
 
Bob
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks, Piet, Its all smoke and mirrors, I cheated the metal parts are super glued together, as soon as I use the soldering gun its all over, I make a big melted blob of brass and solder. I did use brass. The Mast is made from 1/4" square stock out of Alder, the Boom is made from basswood. to lay out the mast, I first cut to length, in this case the mast is 24' ( scale ) I then mark the sail slot side of the mast ( this side has no taper ) I then mark and cut the taper on the front of the mast, in this case the taper is 1/8" to 0 from the mast head to the base ( top of the deck ) I then mark and cut the taper on both sides of the mast  wich is 1/16" to 0 from the mast head to the spreaders. Then its a matter of rounding off the edges and giving the leading edge a foil shape ( I leave the sail slot side of the mast alone as this has to remain straight ) I would like to get some Sitka spruce for the Haven mast, I get the Alder from Home Depot ( I try to find the tightest grain possible ) 
 
Thank You, Mark, I am pleased with how the colors turned out, I am going for that Classic look , like you see in Wooden Boat magazine
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Beautiful work Piet, they look fantastic
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Thanks, Piet, Its all smoke and mirrors, I cheated the metal parts are super glued together, as soon as I use the soldering gun its all over, I make a big melted blob of brass and solder. I did use brass. The Mast is made from 1/4" square stock out of Alder, the Boom is made from basswood. to lay out the mast, I first cut to length, in this case the mast is 24' ( scale ) I then mark the sail slot side of the mast ( this side has no taper ) I then mark and cut the taper on the front of the mast, in this case the taper is 1/8" to 0 from the mast head to the base ( top of the deck ) I then mark and cut the taper on both sides of the mast  wich is 1/16" to 0 from the mast head to the spreaders. Then its a matter of rounding off the edges and giving the leading edge a foil shape ( I leave the sail slot side of the mast alone as this has to remain straight ) I would like to get some Sitka spruce for the Haven mast, I get the Alder from Home Depot ( I try to find the tightest grain possible ) 
 
Thank You, Mark, I am pleased with how the colors turned out, I am going for that Classic look , like you see in Wooden Boat magazine
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Hello David B and thanks for your nice words! I am still considering whether to install those turnbuckles, it is very near that they were not yet used when the ship was built. And thanks for the details of the supplier where they can be purchased!
 
Again small update. I have been playing with the deadeyes. I was wondering, how to produce a great number of them with the necessary accuracy, and decided finally to use my dear old CNC router for this task. The diameter of the deadeyes is 4 mm and they were cut using 0,6 mm cutter to be able to drill the three holes as accurately as possible. The material used was again 1 mm birch plywood.
After cutting the deadeyes were stained with oak colour, and shrouds were made around them using 0,5 mm tinned copper wire, which was soldered solid and painted black.
And finally the shrouds were attached to the hull of model using strips cut of 0,3 mm aluminium sheet.
 
Stained deadeyes, and ones with shrouds made of electrical connection wire:

 
 
 
Attached into the ship`s hull:

Thank you Ian! Yes, the work with small details has some specifics ))
The next stage - the masts and the standing rigging. So first foremast.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many thanks Pete, Crackers and all who pressed LIKE! ))
The next step is making one more the small detail - the nose winch