UdoK

Hi all,
just want to let you that I have received my english copy of the monograph today. It missed Christmas by just a few days.
 
 

Hi all,
just want to let you that I have received my english copy of the monograph today. It missed Christmas by just a few days.
 
 

Hi all,
just want to let you that I have received my english copy of the monograph today. It missed Christmas by just a few days.
 
 

Out of the Shipyard talk.
I got sidetracked and went down to the stern to make:
1. platform over the rudder tiller.
2. the rudder tiller.
 
 
The Platform did not take too long to make, but I did want it to clear the tiller - just.
I blackened 5 brass stanchions which will all be glued in place, rope strung when all the deck "goodies" are done and a massive "fitting day". 

 
The Rudder Tiller took longer to make/fit, well to mortise into the rudder. I reckon it took a good 2.5hrs to widdle, drill, shave, my way through to get a firm fit, and doesn't move when fully in. And by some luck sweeps up/tapered just like in AOTS. Very happy with the out come.

 
I am really struggling with the practicality of the "arch" on the end of the tiller.
We can see that the "arch" was probably added to extend the tiller over the fireplace flue. For extra leverage ? or maybe to exclude access to the flue when hot ?
However, by attaching the tiller ropes to the "arch" end, I can see the ropes fowling the flue when the tiller is hard over either way. The ropes would need to be high enough to clear over the flue, and kept taught enough.
I am temped to not add the "arch" and have a double purchase at the end of the tiller.
Ray Parkins book, it is not consistently shown. 
What to do ??
 
 
So by my reckoning, I am am on target to have all the deck finished by the 2 year anniversary of the build - that being 28 April 2016.
 
 
 
Dave R

I know that reviewing pics sometimes helps me determine how I might go about the next build process. We're getting ready to head off to the San Diego Wild Animal Park for the day... so I will do away with the description and throw up some build pics for your reference.

I then placed the Skylight, and began building the Deck House. Before attaching them I did a test fit of the Mizzen Mast and Spider Band because they sit very close and I wanted to make sure there wouldn't be a problem down the line. Seems you always have to think a half dozen steps ahead. 
 
 

Hi all,
planking continues, but while going trough the parts of the kit again I have discovered something strange I didn't realize when opening the kit last year.
The cannon barrels, the ones supplied in the kit are totally oversized. The lenght of them is 45mm, converted to real size at this scale makes something around 3,5 meter.
I can't imagine the Endeavour was equiped with cannons that big.
Is anybody building this kit facing the same Problem?

Thank you Nils.
 
Window framing completed and I made some good progress on the hull fairing last weekend.
 
 

Hi all, waiting time is over, it continues...
 
Although hull fairing has not been completed yet I have started to fit the transom parts to have a break from sanding.
 
To complete the hull fairing  a few more "low" spots on the Frames require attention. I will cut some left over material from Frame building to be cut to the Frame width, run it trough the thickness sander for approx. thickness and sand it to the hull shape after glueing.
 
 
 
 

thank you very much, but i dont think that i´m artist, i just like play with paints, anyway its clear that i would like improve my skill.
here are some pics of wheel

Thank you for your Interest Antony!
 
Well, due to usual summer activities not much happend in the shipyard since the last update, but now the Bounty is back on the work bench.
I'am still busy with hull fairing and sanding, although the Frames were preshaped it is a lot left to sand.
A few Frames are undersized, don't know why, might be paper distortion from the copys or carelessness from my side. Anyway, got to fix those spots  with adding woodstrips and sanding.
 
Hopefully it will be done in a few days.....

So I haven't made much progress since my last update, and I've discovered that I don't really like rope coils very much.  Seems like a great thing to dislike given my subject choices, hahaha.. 
 
In any case, I'm working on getting a jig that makes coils I like, and I think I'm getting somewhat close, but still not there.
 
I started working at the stern, and I'm done with the stern, quarter-deck, boom, and shrouds now.  
 

 
The coils are taking much longer than I expected them to, but oh well.  Getting a bit better as I go along.

Thanks for the likes and comments.   Short update time.
 
I've laid 12 stakes of the 8" wide planks...  15 to go.   Looks rough but I'm seeing light so what appears to be gaps is just mismatch in thickness and shadows... I hope.
 
From the re-lining off I just finished a strake ago, I won't need a stealer at the stern.  Looking at the French ship monographs I have, a short, wide plank can be added such that the strake is continuous.  I've added one and probably won't need any more. From the dead flat, the strakes run from 8" to almost 4" and then back to 8" at the sternpost. 
 
On the bow side, the planks run from 8" at the dead flat and then eventually taper to 4".  However, at least one drop plank is needed which will be put in in my next two strakes.  I'm trying hard to keep scale on this even though it looks strange due to the scale (to my eye at least). 
 
First two pics show her in all her unsanded, rough looking planking.
 
The third pic is my side project, the longboat.  I needed a way to do this so thought, fiddled, thought, and then came up with a plan I think will work.  I'm using a variation of Chuck's method.  I did have to re-do this once already as for scale, the frames should be 2" (1/32") wide, but I kept breaking them and then realized there wasn't enough meat to hold the planks securely. So, I doubled the width of the frame.  We'll see where this leads.... hopefully not the scrap bin.
 
All in all, I'm pretty pleased.  There's some things I need to think about for the next ship, like is scale planking better or worse than eye-appeal cause these planks are relatively tiny compared to the planks I've used in the past.
 
Enough over-thinking for now... pressing on.
 

Then I started on the Sky Light. Admittedly I struggled with this and was sort of happy with the end result. Fortunately I didn't glue it down onto the deck. The more I looked at it I realized it was out of scale and I just wasn't happy with the brass wire / rods. It looked sloppy to me. So, I tried several different ways to accomplish the build. There are pis in other build logs but none that really showed how they built it. My third try I decided I would build the panels separate then set it into the Proxxon X/Y and utilizing the vice to hold the panel as I drilled the holes all the way through. But first I painted the panel and then drilled it. I know the plans call for the rods to be yellow but I wanted to keep them brass. The whole thing went together well until I sat back and looked at it and one of the top panels is not straight. At this point I'm fairly frustrated and have to decide if I will use it. It's just sitting on the deck and not glued down at this time. 
 
I then installed the rudder and steering wheel assembly. I'll post pics of where I'm at below. I may start on the deck houses and think further about the sky light!! I'll post pics of the first one and the one I just finished. The last pic in the series below is the first one I built.
 
Also wanted to add... the Proxxon tools sure work well. In fact, I just ordered the Proxxon lathe from John who sells Proxxon tools. He has a web site and his email contact is " texxn5@gmail.com ". He is building the same ship and his web site details his entire build. It's been a great reference for me and he's a pretty nice guy. He put a special combo deal together for me! 

Moving on, I built the work bench, chicken coop and the duck / water pen. I did end up cutting off one of the handles on the grinding stone. I also attached the vice to the work bench but don't ask me why I painted it Red! I also thought it would look better if I made one of the work bench drawers in the open position. I'll post these pics below:
 
 
 
 
 
 

I've been able to spend a little time on the build in the evenings. I completed the Tri -Works, Cooling Tank and Scrap Hopper. Didn't have any copper sheeting to make the cooling tank so I used card stock and painted it copper color and then used some aging powder to give it a bit of a dirty look. I need to change the chain attachment that is seen in the picture as it doesn't go well. I'll post my build pics of these below:
 
 

First I want to express my deepest sadness about the Loss of our friend Mick (Micklen32).
As we now all know it wasn't allowed to him to complete his Endeavour build, so I would like to dedicate my build to him!
Rest in peace my friend!
 
Building goes on..
For the upper bulwark planking I have used again a Piece of a basswood sheet instead of single Planks.
Soaked them in water for half hour and clamped it to the hull.
 
 

Shipyard Update,
The build has been constructing the Chess-trees.
Each is a lamination of 3 x 1mm layers to make the 1mm slot for a sheeve. Plus a small piece on the back to fit between the gunwale and sheer strake. I want to use a 3mm dia sheeve that 1mm thick, haven't got one yet !. Searching.
 
The other action in the yard is adding the skids to either side of the hull. I first glued a 1mm deep layer onto the hull, which serves as a base for a further 1mm skid. Pictures below.
 
Working on the Tack Fairleads next.
 
Dave R

Thanks for looking in at the progress guys.
The stern Roughtree is now on, another step forward.
 
Below is a picture of the clamping on the stern rail whilst the glue dries, does your clamping look like this at times?
 
The rounded ends of the rail sit inside the swivel Gun Stock(one of the pics below shows how this will look)
 
Each of the long side rails have another 1mm to add on top of the rail. I left that off thinking it would be easier to bend the 2mm rail to follow the gunwale(that worked fine). The 1mm will butt up to the curved end of the stern rail, so it won't be a 2mm step only 1mm. That should look fine.
 
Added a bit of black to the stanchions - looking better.
 
One should contemplate doing the deck fit-out before doing too much more to the hull, working over the rails.
 
Dave R

Roughtree Update shipmates.
I snapped a shot of the rear deck stanchions just before I glued the top Roughtree rail on. All the tops notched to provide a firm fit into the rail. Very pleased with this method.
 
Have moved onto the stern rail now.
I finally glued my stern window piece onto the boat. I made this piece months ago and although some more details to go on, need it firmly in place to fit the stern Roughtree on.
 
Am preparing the rail, taking into account the curvatures(horiz & vert.) and the joints either side. Nice challenge. I am planning to fix the rail over/onto the side rails like the replica, bit of a tight curve at the ends.
As they say, that's the plan.
 
 
Dave R

Hello Shipmates,
Seems a while that my shipyard has posted an update. Been busy making the stanchions and Roughtree rails.
Each stanchion bottom double bevelled, length tapered, top double notched.
 
A few pictures of where we are at for now.
 
Each stanchion is pinned to the gunwale, the top notched to slip into the rebated Roughtree rail. A lot of work but assembling and aligning worked out very well.
 
I have the stern Rougtree rail gluing at the moment(pic), she is double curved to sweep over the Taffarel and join either side Roughtree rail. Probably join as the replica is.
 
The rails have been a welcome distraction from the airing ports.
 
Dave R

Hello friends.
 
The all remaining frames mounted, aligned and bonded.
Now handwork is called for sanding.
Help in this case, belt-sander, long-neck angle grinder
and various sanding blocks.
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  3
 
 

Hi Ron, you are walkng down the road pretty fast.
Your copper plates are looking fantastic!

Airing Port Jig.
Bit crude, however does the intended job.
I use the crappy looking hinge glued onto a scrap piece of planking, with 2 holes drilled in the brass hinge. These are same as for the previous post alignment jig holes for the 2 x eye bolt pins.
 
Pic:  Port Jig1
The jig is positioned into a airing port on the hull, and the 2 holes drilled through the brass holes.
 
Pic:    Port P1
Holes drilled above the hull hole
 
Pic:   Port P1 Port01
A part completed Airing Port fitted to the hull(with tmp pin).
Some more work on the pivot pins to go.
 
All this takes time, esp. making the sets of hinges, eye bolts, jigs etc.
 
And I still have the lower Airing ports to go.
 
 
 
Dave R

Airing Ports - update
The shipyard got smart on this one. Well hope so.
We made a jig to mount the small port timber, the 2 hinges, eye bolt and temp pinion(nail).
The series of picture hopefully indicate the alignment of the hinges whilst they glue onto the timber port.
 
I also have a hole drilling jig that I will use to position the eye bolt holes into the hull.
Next Post.
 
 
Dave R