UdoK

Thanks for the likes and comments.   Short update time.
 
I've laid 12 stakes of the 8" wide planks...  15 to go.   Looks rough but I'm seeing light so what appears to be gaps is just mismatch in thickness and shadows... I hope.
 
From the re-lining off I just finished a strake ago, I won't need a stealer at the stern.  Looking at the French ship monographs I have, a short, wide plank can be added such that the strake is continuous.  I've added one and probably won't need any more. From the dead flat, the strakes run from 8" to almost 4" and then back to 8" at the sternpost. 
 
On the bow side, the planks run from 8" at the dead flat and then eventually taper to 4".  However, at least one drop plank is needed which will be put in in my next two strakes.  I'm trying hard to keep scale on this even though it looks strange due to the scale (to my eye at least). 
 
First two pics show her in all her unsanded, rough looking planking.
 
The third pic is my side project, the longboat.  I needed a way to do this so thought, fiddled, thought, and then came up with a plan I think will work.  I'm using a variation of Chuck's method.  I did have to re-do this once already as for scale, the frames should be 2" (1/32") wide, but I kept breaking them and then realized there wasn't enough meat to hold the planks securely. So, I doubled the width of the frame.  We'll see where this leads.... hopefully not the scrap bin.
 
All in all, I'm pretty pleased.  There's some things I need to think about for the next ship, like is scale planking better or worse than eye-appeal cause these planks are relatively tiny compared to the planks I've used in the past.
 
Enough over-thinking for now... pressing on.
 

Then I started on the Sky Light. Admittedly I struggled with this and was sort of happy with the end result. Fortunately I didn't glue it down onto the deck. The more I looked at it I realized it was out of scale and I just wasn't happy with the brass wire / rods. It looked sloppy to me. So, I tried several different ways to accomplish the build. There are pis in other build logs but none that really showed how they built it. My third try I decided I would build the panels separate then set it into the Proxxon X/Y and utilizing the vice to hold the panel as I drilled the holes all the way through. But first I painted the panel and then drilled it. I know the plans call for the rods to be yellow but I wanted to keep them brass. The whole thing went together well until I sat back and looked at it and one of the top panels is not straight. At this point I'm fairly frustrated and have to decide if I will use it. It's just sitting on the deck and not glued down at this time. 
 
I then installed the rudder and steering wheel assembly. I'll post pics of where I'm at below. I may start on the deck houses and think further about the sky light!! I'll post pics of the first one and the one I just finished. The last pic in the series below is the first one I built.
 
Also wanted to add... the Proxxon tools sure work well. In fact, I just ordered the Proxxon lathe from John who sells Proxxon tools. He has a web site and his email contact is " texxn5@gmail.com ". He is building the same ship and his web site details his entire build. It's been a great reference for me and he's a pretty nice guy. He put a special combo deal together for me! 

Moving on, I built the work bench, chicken coop and the duck / water pen. I did end up cutting off one of the handles on the grinding stone. I also attached the vice to the work bench but don't ask me why I painted it Red! I also thought it would look better if I made one of the work bench drawers in the open position. I'll post these pics below:
 
 
 
 
 
 

I've been able to spend a little time on the build in the evenings. I completed the Tri -Works, Cooling Tank and Scrap Hopper. Didn't have any copper sheeting to make the cooling tank so I used card stock and painted it copper color and then used some aging powder to give it a bit of a dirty look. I need to change the chain attachment that is seen in the picture as it doesn't go well. I'll post my build pics of these below:
 
 

First I want to express my deepest sadness about the Loss of our friend Mick (Micklen32).
As we now all know it wasn't allowed to him to complete his Endeavour build, so I would like to dedicate my build to him!
Rest in peace my friend!
 
Building goes on..
For the upper bulwark planking I have used again a Piece of a basswood sheet instead of single Planks.
Soaked them in water for half hour and clamped it to the hull.
 
 

Shipyard Update,
The build has been constructing the Chess-trees.
Each is a lamination of 3 x 1mm layers to make the 1mm slot for a sheeve. Plus a small piece on the back to fit between the gunwale and sheer strake. I want to use a 3mm dia sheeve that 1mm thick, haven't got one yet !. Searching.
 
The other action in the yard is adding the skids to either side of the hull. I first glued a 1mm deep layer onto the hull, which serves as a base for a further 1mm skid. Pictures below.
 
Working on the Tack Fairleads next.
 
Dave R

Thanks for looking in at the progress guys.
The stern Roughtree is now on, another step forward.
 
Below is a picture of the clamping on the stern rail whilst the glue dries, does your clamping look like this at times?
 
The rounded ends of the rail sit inside the swivel Gun Stock(one of the pics below shows how this will look)
 
Each of the long side rails have another 1mm to add on top of the rail. I left that off thinking it would be easier to bend the 2mm rail to follow the gunwale(that worked fine). The 1mm will butt up to the curved end of the stern rail, so it won't be a 2mm step only 1mm. That should look fine.
 
Added a bit of black to the stanchions - looking better.
 
One should contemplate doing the deck fit-out before doing too much more to the hull, working over the rails.
 
Dave R

Roughtree Update shipmates.
I snapped a shot of the rear deck stanchions just before I glued the top Roughtree rail on. All the tops notched to provide a firm fit into the rail. Very pleased with this method.
 
Have moved onto the stern rail now.
I finally glued my stern window piece onto the boat. I made this piece months ago and although some more details to go on, need it firmly in place to fit the stern Roughtree on.
 
Am preparing the rail, taking into account the curvatures(horiz & vert.) and the joints either side. Nice challenge. I am planning to fix the rail over/onto the side rails like the replica, bit of a tight curve at the ends.
As they say, that's the plan.
 
 
Dave R

Hello Shipmates,
Seems a while that my shipyard has posted an update. Been busy making the stanchions and Roughtree rails.
Each stanchion bottom double bevelled, length tapered, top double notched.
 
A few pictures of where we are at for now.
 
Each stanchion is pinned to the gunwale, the top notched to slip into the rebated Roughtree rail. A lot of work but assembling and aligning worked out very well.
 
I have the stern Rougtree rail gluing at the moment(pic), she is double curved to sweep over the Taffarel and join either side Roughtree rail. Probably join as the replica is.
 
The rails have been a welcome distraction from the airing ports.
 
Dave R

Hello friends.
 
The all remaining frames mounted, aligned and bonded.
Now handwork is called for sanding.
Help in this case, belt-sander, long-neck angle grinder
and various sanding blocks.
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  3
 
 

Hi Ron, you are walkng down the road pretty fast.
Your copper plates are looking fantastic!

Airing Port Jig.
Bit crude, however does the intended job.
I use the crappy looking hinge glued onto a scrap piece of planking, with 2 holes drilled in the brass hinge. These are same as for the previous post alignment jig holes for the 2 x eye bolt pins.
 
Pic:  Port Jig1
The jig is positioned into a airing port on the hull, and the 2 holes drilled through the brass holes.
 
Pic:    Port P1
Holes drilled above the hull hole
 
Pic:   Port P1 Port01
A part completed Airing Port fitted to the hull(with tmp pin).
Some more work on the pivot pins to go.
 
All this takes time, esp. making the sets of hinges, eye bolts, jigs etc.
 
And I still have the lower Airing ports to go.
 
 
 
Dave R

Airing Ports - update
The shipyard got smart on this one. Well hope so.
We made a jig to mount the small port timber, the 2 hinges, eye bolt and temp pinion(nail).
The series of picture hopefully indicate the alignment of the hinges whilst they glue onto the timber port.
 
I also have a hole drilling jig that I will use to position the eye bolt holes into the hull.
Next Post.
 
 
Dave R

Shipyard finally has the 3 larger hatches on the side of the hull.
90% happy  with them, very fiddly work making them hinges.
 
Next is the mid size ones.
 
Updated Sun 26July2015:
Added pictures with starboard ports open.
 
Dave R

Hi.
Well its the end of this build and its been a nice steady build.
Started in September 2013. with a couple of breaks IE summer holidays. Daughters wedding.
 
A few photos are in order..
 

 
The Enclosure is made from Fire resting poly-carbonate, as its Health and Safety thing.
Top .bottom and back are 12mm plywood.
 

 
There is also a Mirror at the back of the model..Gives it more depth. Doctor Who cheat.
 

 
The Red button is a press to make switch. and holds the power on for 30 seconds.
Lights that are in the Hold and Orlop deck flicker like oil lamps.
 

 
The two Dolphins are carved from Boxwood (not by me) . Local shop sells then cheap.
 

 

 

 
I did not put gravel into the hold in order to keep the weight down.
 

 

 
The drawings are bits that I had lying around.. They cover the plywood nicely.
 

 

 
The tape measure is showing the physical size of the enclosure
 

 
I really appreciate the help and encouragement you people have given me throughout this build.
I would also like to thank my friend Roy for supplying my with the timber for the build.
 
And of course the person who keeps everything running in the house while I have my head buried in the model. Marian.
 
And all the likes... There are soooooo many.
Any questions.. Please ask.
 
Regards Antony.
 
 
 

Hi Nenad,
think twice about your decision to start again. Dumping a model means to dump all the efforts and hours spend on it, I do know from experience that mostly always something can be done to prevent the final step.

Hello friends.
Against my original plan,  I'm building the model in scale 1:36 instead of 
building it in scale 1:48.
This means change of plans.
Regards Karl 

So very busy life has me out of the workshop at the moment, but I did receive the figurehead carving I commisioned from David Antscherl yesterday - As with any of his work it is simply outstanding to say the least.
Thank you David for accepting the commision.
 
ben

It's been a while since my last upload. Lots of things going on at home and I haven't been able to spend a whole lot of time on the ship. But here and there I squeeze in an hour or so.  I was able to spend half of today working on it and have some pics to share.
 
I finished with the copper plates and painted the balance of the hull black. I then sprayed a matte finish on it. Then I finished up most of the outside part of the stern and painted it. 
 
I then finished installing the Waterway and Ceiling Planks. Admittedly, I struggled with the Ceiling Planks and had to use a little filler. I then installed the Log Rail and Top Gallant Rail. Again, I painted the exterior black. 
 
I then installed the Lashing Rail and decided to paint the inside now so I wouldn't have to tape off or make a mess after planking the interior. Today I worked on the supports that will go under the coamings for the Hatches, Skylight, Steerage companion, Tryworks and Forecastle. I also installed the deck insert for the Windlass. If I recall, the width of the scrap wood used for the supports was about 1/4" wide. 
 
I'll see if I can upload the pics to this work: 

Update time.    Starboard side aft outer bulwark is done..  sanded and has one coat of Wipe-On poly drying.    I'll rotate the hul around and turn to on the port side aft.  I'm debating over when this part is done whether to finish the hull planking or turn my attention to the stern planking.  I guess I'll just wait and see what mood I'm in.
 

Thanks for the Likes!
 
The new Backbone is ready, beside the Modification on the after Deadwood I have cut the Stem Rabbet, tapered the head of the Knee and glued together all the parts.

Well, I think I have figured out something what should work.
 
A close comparison of the Hahn plans by the AotS Body lines of the Bounty pointed out that Hahn has drawn the rear Framework to the overall  size including the Planking. It seems he started to increase the Cant Frames from the bottom of the whale towards the sternpost and keel to meet the rabbet.
 
So, I need to reduce the width of Frame 29 - 35 plus the transom wings by the plank thickness for a true and nice run of the Planks into the rabbet.
The Pictures already show a modified deadwood, the thickness of the deadwood is reduced to meet the rabbet.
 
Here we go, making sawdust to see am I right!
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank you Nils.
 
Window framing completed and I made some good progress on the hull fairing last weekend.
 
 

Hi all, waiting time is over, it continues...
 
Although hull fairing has not been completed yet I have started to fit the transom parts to have a break from sanding.
 
To complete the hull fairing  a few more "low" spots on the Frames require attention. I will cut some left over material from Frame building to be cut to the Frame width, run it trough the thickness sander for approx. thickness and sand it to the hull shape after glueing.
 
 
 
 

Slowly progressing with the keel / stem / stern assembly.
 
Finished the deadwood and the slots for the wing transoms. Instead of chiseling, made that slots by gluing a wood strips and sanding it down to a smooth surface. (Tar simulation is done with a black paper again).
 

 

 
Simulating the iron bolts with 0.5mm black monofilament:
 

 
It is a little bit not to the scale, should be 0.52mm instead of 0.50 (assuming that original bolts were 1 inch thick). But that is the biggest monofilament I found.
Maybe on a next, true replica model will use the real iron bolts (with the heads). But this time - a small simplification.
Only one side of a frame has a bolts, because another side would be fully planked anyway.
 
Lots of sanding ahead - need to go through 240 -> 320 -> 400 -> 600 -> 1200 -> 2000 grits to achieve a consistent thickness of a frame and a smooth finish.