Geoff Matson
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Everything posted by Geoff Matson
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Glad to hear you got the keels on. I really like building the boats. Each one was a model in itself. The one decision you have to make when you decide to detail the interrior is how much do you want to put in the boats. As you can see by my pictures, the boats are pretty cluttered . If I were to do it over I think I would have put in a few oars, and maybe left the sails off the masts. You end up hiding a lot of details, but it also hides my mistakes Have fun with the boats and look forward to you posts. -
Good move. Never throw anything out. You can always find a use for it somewhere. Boats are looking good.
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Lookis like you are making good progress. Lots of line and knots. Keep us posted
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The grating is a brass square about 2 inches or so. I made the surrounds per the plans and then put the brass grating in. I left it brass because I liked the look. You could always paint it if you want.
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Here is the bowsprit all assembled and painted Again everything was per the plans. Glad this part is over. A lot of work and planning went into it. The steps on the bowsprit were a challenge for me.
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I finished my bowsprit Here are parts under construction. Everything was done per the plans Once I figured out the shape of the bowsprit the rest was preety easy.
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Where do flag halliards go? Deck or top?
Geoff Matson replied to Modeler12's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Jay I like all the details are including with your Conny. Great job! -
Looking good Steve. The plastic is actually easy to work with. Just take your time. I painted the interrior before I added the floor boards. Then I just scraped off the area I wanted to glue to. The one thing I did that was a little different is that I used different woods on the interriors. The big boat was done with boxwood the two side boats were done with cherry and the stern boat was donw with mahagony. I like to experiment as I go along for future builds. But like I said before, once you put all the stuff in the boats you don't see much of the interrior. Have fun
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Jay The choice of material seems to unlimited. The Byrnes ropewalk does not say which material is best. There has been a lot of discussion on the list about what material to use. Some guys like cotton, some silk, some guys like to die their own color etc. I guess it comes down to personal taste. I am still not sure which was fo go.
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Thanks for recreating what you could of the build log. The carving part is a tutorial in itself. Great job.
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Jay Way to go on the rope walk. That is the one thing that really amazes me about this list. All the different ways to get the same job done. We have some inventive people here. I plan on making all my own own rope for the rigging. I will be using the Byrnes ropewalk. Right now I am trying to figure out the line sizes etc. I am alomost done with the bowsprit and will post my progress soon.
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Harvey Glad to see you back to work on the Conny. Everything is looking great. Lots of details to put on the deck.
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Dan Looking good. Isn't it nice when you can sit back and look at your progress. Then you remember you "Have to the other side"
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Jay Good to hear things are working out. Happy modeling
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Jeff Just checked out sight and tips page. What great information to have. Thanks for doing that.
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I know the problem. Us old guys with big hands and small deadeyes and even smaller threads really make things hard. When I rigged my AVS I used the tweezers like extensions of my fingers. Kind of like Edward scissorshand I try to make sure my deadeyes are lined up right the bottom one is like a smiley face and the top one is likea up side down one. Using a gauge as do also helps keep the spacing the same. Seizing and serving the lines is very hard to get looking right. It takes practice. Thats why I try to do as much rigging off the model as I ca. I seize and serve all my lines. No knots. The one thing I learned is that if something bothers you "do it over" otherwise everytime you look at it and wish you hard. If the rigging is starting to get to you go ahead and make the boats or work on the bowsprit or carvings for a diversion. The most important point is hang in there.
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There has been a lot of disscussion about the line colors. I have seen them done both ways. I think I will rig my deadeyes with the lighter colors.
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Jeff A few words about the deadeyes Make sure you us a third hand. It makes soldering that much easier. I twisted the wire around the deadeye, fluxed the wire and then soldered it. That is what you see in the picture. Then I cut the wire to length put it in one clip and put the strap in the other clip, fluxed everything and soldered it together. Check the plans for the proper length of everything. Also make sure your deadeyes have a little play in wire. That way when you go to rig them you can adjust them a little. If you paint everything black make sure the deadeyes are lined up the way you want them. The paint will act as glue and freeze them in place.
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Jay When I first looked at the mizzen mast deadeyes I thought they were kidding me But that is what the palns called for. Eveything is looking great.
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Steve Glad I could help you out. The only bad thing about all the stuff that goes in the boat is that it really hides the interrior of the boat. You might want to thin out the boat details. If I had to do t over I would not put so much detail in the boats. As for the keels I put the one on the big boat so it would fit in the chocks over the hatch covers. And the other three will be hanging over the sides so I put them on also. I am building the Conny following Bob Hunts practicum and taking alot of information off the plans. Good luck with the boats!
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It looks like your plan is working for you so just keep going the way you are going. It looks great!
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Bob Looks like you are off to a good start. Make sure you have enough of the tape so it will all be the same color. One thing I did was to copper the rudder at the same time I did the hull. That way it will all age the same. Just take your time.
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Jay That rigging surely makes you think and plan ahead.
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Steve Thought this might help Here is the Evergreen plastic that I used for the boats I used evergreen styrene plastic for the interiors and it was: Part no 112 .015 x .040 strips for the whaleboat footlings, Part no. 122 .020 x .040 strips for the pinnace & whaleboat ribs, pinnace floorboards, pinnace & whaleboat gudgeon and pintle, Part no. 124 .020 x .080 strips for the pinnace footing, pinnace caps, pinnace, oarlocks, Part no.131 .030 x .030 for the pinnace thwarts, waleboat rising. Part no. 9010 .010 sheet for the pinnace portable pannel Again, just check the plans and see what you need.
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Sure Hope this helps out Here are couple of pictures: The stryrene bends easily and is ca glued in the boat. Here is the interior a little further along Here is all the boats with the interior and painted The last picture shows what I made for the interrior. Just play around with the styrene and see what happens.
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