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Geoff Matson

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Everything posted by Geoff Matson

  1. It looks like your plan is working for you so just keep going the way you are going. It looks great!
  2. Bob Looks like you are off to a good start. Make sure you have enough of the tape so it will all be the same color. One thing I did was to copper the rudder at the same time I did the hull. That way it will all age the same. Just take your time.
  3. Steve Thought this might help Here is the Evergreen plastic that I used for the boats I used evergreen styrene plastic for the interiors and it was: Part no 112 .015 x .040 strips for the whaleboat footlings, Part no. 122 .020 x .040 strips for the pinnace & whaleboat ribs, pinnace floorboards, pinnace & whaleboat gudgeon and pintle, Part no. 124 .020 x .080 strips for the pinnace footing, pinnace caps, pinnace, oarlocks, Part no.131 .030 x .030 for the pinnace thwarts, waleboat rising. Part no. 9010 .010 sheet for the pinnace portable pannel Again, just check the plans and see what you need.
  4. Sure Hope this helps out Here are couple of pictures: The stryrene bends easily and is ca glued in the boat. Here is the interior a little further along Here is all the boats with the interior and painted The last picture shows what I made for the interrior. Just play around with the styrene and see what happens.
  5. Thanks for the post. It is very informative and will help me when I go to mill some wood.
  6. Harvey Just do a little experimenting and see which method works best for you. That is the nice thing about modeling. There are many different ways to the end result.
  7. Looks like you are getting the rigging under control. Nice work on the pendant lines.
  8. Steve I used the styrene when I made my boats and it worked out well. As you say easy to bend.When painted they all look the same.
  9. Bob You should have posted this in the BooBoos section Great save and everything is looking great.
  10. Jay I got the rings and mizzen mast all ready to go. There are a lot of items like like. You relly have to be sure before you glue something on the masts. Thanks again
  11. Jay Thanks for the information before installing the masts. I will really plan ahead before I do that. Lots of relationships to look at.
  12. Jay Thanks for researching this. I will have to give it a try.
  13. Jay I finally got the bowsprit all figured out. Thanks to you and the other guys for their help. I am getting close to the rigging process and am thinking of how to approch it. I am not going to the rig the sails as you are so I should only have half the problems I am seriously thinking of installing the masts, then do the ratlines, the the topmasts, and ratlines, etc. That way I won't have all the lines hanging in my way. I am also thinking of prerigging all the masts as you are doing, but only dry fitting the attachment points in place. Mark them and then when it comes to rigging, all I have to do is install them. That way I will have a baggy full of line reay to go. It will be a big thought process, but I will see what I can come up with. I will be following your progress and that may help me in my decisions. Thanks
  14. Looking good Dan. THe first one is always the hardest.
  15. Ok! I finally figured out the bowsprit. Only in ship modeling would you take a wood dowel and keep the top level the entire length. Then on the aft end make a slight taper on it. Then form a tennon on a angle cut while keeping the bottom level in the middle. Then on the bow end make a slight taper the goes from round to square and form a tennon on the end for the bow cap at an angle! But I did it and here it is: Glad this part is done.
  16. In addition to the conservators wax I found three kins of bees wax off the internet The basic yellow color, black, and a white or neutral color. I also found a thread treatment from an American company www.herrshners.com It is similar to the conservators wax. I still learn to the conservators wax
  17. I got all the masts painted and ready to go The fore mast and parts THe main mast and parts The mizzen mast and parts I took all the measurements off the plans and added all the parts shown.
  18. Looks great Jay. The sheave block adds a little character to things.
  19. Floyd Thanks for the interesting post. It looks like the answer to all your questions is bascially Yes. As with most chemicals you need to experiment with all of them and brass being used to fins your best results. I have used the basic blacken it and my results have been mixed. It seems to be chaulky and rub off. I have had good results with Burchwood Casey. It is a basic gun blackening agent picked up at most gun supply stores. The Brownells Oxpho Blue gives a more blue hue to the brass. I like this product when I make small scale pikes, boat hooks etc from brass. It is also sold at a gun store. I think the most important thing is make sure the brass is well cleaned as you mention in your points.
  20. Jay That looks like a winner. Those dotted lines really helped. Thanks for explaination
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