tarbrush

Thanks for your comment Tony.
I've decided to make a batch of blocks, there is a need for some for the bunt lines under the tops. There is still a reasonable supply of the lemon wood to work with. All the preliminary work was done with the mill, the rest is just old school: file, sand, cut and sand. The end result is not too shabby.
One of the "problems" with this hobby are the rabbit holes. Just when I get on a roll, I start to wonder if an additional piece of machinery might help. Work then stops to accommodate the new fixation.......in this case, a block tumbler.
 

Thanks for your interest Tony.
I've planked the tops, and made an ''iron'' rim for the mizzen top.
The rim was awkward, I brazed one end whilst flat on a fire proof sheet, then set the rim in a vice with wire to hold everything in place to complete the joint. Ended up having to re solder the opposite end to obtain the extra length to get it to fit the top. It's a good thing there was a bit spare to allow the adjustment.
I've ditched the phone and replaced it with my trusty, old 8MP Canon, so no more weird uploads.
Grant.

Lower masts are ready for next step.   I'm hoping the pictures load right way up this time.......which they did. It seems which side of the camera is up makes all the difference.
 
Grant.
 

No worries, Eric.  I believe we all know that real life has priority.  When you're ready, we'll be here.

I have a model that sat for 10 years before finishing it. Not to worry.
 
Nic

After all these years continuing the build ..
 

Thank you JJ and Glenn and for all the likes.
 
I have started work on the deck. I just have the tricky hooked joints still to do. They did not come out too well on my Winchelsea but I am better prepared this time, I think.
 
I have purchased the Syren mini-kits available for the Cheerful and started putting those together. Nothing is yet fixed to the deck. Therein lies a conundrum: Is it simpler, and likely to lead to a better outcome, if all the deck fittings aare left off so the deck can be more easily sanded or should the fittings be fixed to the false deck before planking? I went for the former first because I intend to treenail the deck (in the approved Chuck fashion with a small drill, very sharp pencil and wood filler) and I want real ease of access to sand away the filler and secondly because, as I discovered with Winchelsea I am nothing like as good as I should be (and I hope I am better at it now than I was) at cutting planks to length. The downside is you necessarily omit that very fine detail where the grating coamings are rounded above deck level and left square at deck level so it is a balancing exercise.
 
Here are some photographs.
 
This is the super Syren windlass kit. I cannot bring myself to cover it in paint.







The seats of ease are not yet finished of course and will be painted in due course.
 

Have a good day everyone.
Fred
 
 

Thank you Chuck, Glenn and JJ and for the likes.
 
Progress here is slow not least because I've had cataract surgery on both eyes. Its a miracle operation: I can see long distances with sparkling clarity and detail and without specs for the first time in 50 plus years. But reading and model work is all to pot. Over the counter reading specs are OK for reading but not adequate for model work. I have to wait a few weeks for everything to settle down before getting some prescription readers - and then with any luck I shall be up and running again.
 
In the meantime I've done those little shaped pieces at  the bow, The margin planks (too wide, I think, but I'm hoping the waterway, cannons and deck clutter will disguise that) with scarf joints ( practice required!), the companionway housing ( a bit dollshouse-ish possibly. I'm still thinking about it) and some preparation for the deck planking. I was very unhappy with my deck planking of the Winnie - all down I can see now to a lack of preparation. There is no substitute in this hobby for experience and I don't have much. But I'm learning!
 





 





There is a gentle bend in the deck planking though it does not really show in the pictures. The planking was cut in Imperial sizes by Hobbymill EU. In metric the planks I will use are a smidge over 5mm and I will sand them down to 3.5mm at bow and stern remaining 5mm at the centre. I wonder about the central planks remining un-sanded -5mm straight through as Chuck shows them and as, no doubt, is authentic. I think I prefer all of them gently curved. 
 
My deck furniture bits and pieces are winging their way across the pond from Syren as I write so I'll put those together and have a play around before deciding.
 
At the moment the only finish on the planking is sanding sealer. At some point I will have a jolly good clean up and apply a permanent finish Matt varnish I guess.
 
All the best everyone
Fred
 
 
 
 
 
 

I laid down the cloth and resin in two coats after sanding inbetween. I also received the graphic for the transome the other day. "Miss Chloe in navy blue". Unlike the original, the predominant color of mine will be white. 

There is little information available for the rigging of these two sails.
So i look and compare, and the way that occurs most is used.

The main topsail halyard.


The braces

Overview

Thanks for following, comments and likes.

I happen to be reading the paper this morning and came across an article about the very style of boat the Miss Chloe is, and there are a few of them actually being used to offer boat rides on a lake not so near me. There are a few differences to these compared to Miss Chloe, like the rounded stern/transom and the canopy extending all they way up to the cabin. I'm going to have to take a little trip over there to take a ride on one of them. I actually like the rounded transom better than the squared one on the Chloe, but we'll see how she turns out, I can always make another one with a round transom.  

I got the hull all planked, skim coated with bondo. Next will be laying down the fiber glass cloth and resin when humidity lays down a bit. I also started working on the cabin structure.

Next steps was to make the guns
At first I changed the brass into bronze by painting it with acrylic (old gold mixed with black)

 
And than the wooden parts.
Milling the side panels of the gun carriadges.

Side panels and other parts after cutting by band saw and sanding
 

First attempt

Making the  axis and the weels
 



The first finished gun

A board
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
At
At last for today I had to  modell 4 swivel guns for the stern. There were 4 guns from an older project. So it was easy to me to modify they into swivels.
 



 
Cheerio!
 
Hartmut

Thanks, guys for your  kind compliments!
 
Next steps was to make the keel, the stemson and the bob stay piece of the head. I have made the pieces from mahogany, planed with the thickness planer.
 




Next I make and bring in the walls.
 

 

 

 

 
Cheers Hartmut
 
 

Aye, Mates,
 
many thanks for your kind interest in my new project.
 
I am building the hull in an unusual way. Instead of a first planking I glue in plywood between the bulkheads. Than I had to sand it into its shape. Here are some pics from this way.







This construction results in a very stable hull. Next. I'll plan the material for the wales, the keel and the deck beams. I still have a few pieces of mahagony that will work well for that. The planks I will make from pear.That can look pretty good together.
 
Cheers  Angarvater

I have started the next project, an elizabethanian galleon.
I use some plans I did find in two old german modeling books, Mondfeld, Historische Schiffsmodelle, a german classic from the early 70., and Stoeckel,Risse von Schiffen des 16. und 17. Jahrhunderts. Both authors showed very similar plans of an elizabethanian galleon, named Golden Hind or ex Pelican. It may be a model of Drakes Golden Hind. How Golden Hind looked exactly is unclear. But I like the plans, and they also seems quite right for the type Galeone of the english sailors in the time of queen Elizabeth Tudor.
 
Fist step was to modify the slipway. For the aligning of the frames on the keel plate I use a cross line laser
 

The plans
 



 
The bulkheads
 

 
Mounting of the bulkheads on the keel plate
 

 

 

 
The shipyard guard (named Michel ) after work
 

cheers!  Hartmut

Hi Waldemar, 
 
thank you for your interest! What a coincidence, indeed 🙂
I'm fascinated with your research. 
Would you like (and are able) to share the documents concerning the Papegojan?
 
I just had a look at your build log, the CAD renderings are splendid. I had my first go at CAD for the sail and cannon control units, using the free 123D design software - pretty frustrating, as it had trouble coping with the complexity of my design (a few thousand objects).
 
In any case I am looking forward to see more of your ship!
 

Hello Roman,
 
What a coincidence! You built a ship that took part in a battle in which the flagship was the ship I am currently reconstructing (Polish/German Sankt Georg). An account of this reconstruction can be found on this forum.
 
It is probably too late for this now, as you have already built your model, but in the course of my historical research I also found in the archives in Stockholm quite a few source documents concerning the Papegojan. Amongst other things, these documents contain information on the ship's dimensions, number of sails, armament and crew numbers in the various years of the ship's service.
 
I would follow the 'sea' trials of your Papegojan with the utmost interest.
 
 

Hi all,
 
after the original forum, where I started posting our build log, has become very silent, I hope to find a more interested audience here!
 
I have been persuaded by my son, then 8, to build a wooden model ship (he had been inspired by seeing a wooden model of a Minoan galley, shown in a excavation museum found on the Greek island of Paros - a reconstruction based on murals 3800 years old).
As we were reading a book on Francis Drake at the time, it had to be a sailing ship of roughly that area, of course remote controlled, of course with functioning cannons, and reefing sails was also a desired feature.
 
A good friend of ours builds cardboard models, he gave me a cardbord model kit for the Papegojan from 1624, scale 1:98 - the plans of which I stretched by 320% (such it will just fit into the trunk of our car - and the bigger, the better for real sailing).
Our model measures ~1200mm from stern to tip of the bowsprit, and displaces 9.6 kg.

 
Also, we changed the name to "Zeta", and made some minor modifications to the original, as preferred by my son.
Apart from that, we have tried to stick as much as possible to historical correctness as possible - with some small compromises to allow radio controlled sailing - I will point these out.
 
For sailing, all sails will be contolled as in the original, with the help of bracing winches (I hope this it the correct English term).
Sails also allow reefing, not fully historically acurate, for reasons of mechanical implementation, but more or less close to it.
Cannons can be fired remotely, and are also planned to allow running in and out of the ship, gun ports opening and closing respectively.
 
At this time, the hull and all details are complete, so is the rigging - what is missing are the bracing/reefing reels to complete the sail steering unit; the mechanical and software part for cannon control, and the lead ballast.
 
Here are some teaser pictures:

 

 
 
 
 
 

 

 
if you are interested in a detailed build log (we learned a lot on our journey), let me know, and I will translate the original log (in German) and continue posting here!
(As this is our first model, and there were many things we did not initially know about model making as well as about historical sailing ships, we have created a comprehensive log with a lot of explanations, as I felt the relevant information did not exist in a single place elsewhere.)
 
Greetings from Vienna, Austria,
 
-Roman

So some more alge (I’ve read accounts of these first war German subs, they’d park on shallow sea floors, so I reckon they’d pick up some grunge. 
the whole bottom hull given a colour Le of layers of green slime then thinned off. 

Update
 
For the deck I had removed the intended pine planking again, changed the pattern arrangement and now mounted a new planking in straight larch wood, planks 4 x 0,8 mm. It went faster than I had thought
This looks OK in my opinion and gives a good contrast with the beech wood comings
The main mast with gaff and spars and the mizzen mast with boom and spars is also done, but yet without the rigging blocks that are on order
 
Nils

the first rough sanding is done.  The outcut on the front deck is for sight acess to the storage compartment and the anchor chain
 

 
 

The brass anchors at the deckside shall be for mounting the footrail, the dark stained anchors are for taking up the shrouds
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

the gaff to the main mast is rigged preliminary without blocks

Hi, and thanks for the likes.
Starting on second planking above wale.
After a first measurement I think that towards the stern planks will need tapering
and towards the bow I will need to fit two or three stealers.
This build has a very busy hull so I will try to keep these towards the wale.
Photo below shows the first run cut.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 

Second planking added above wale and counter planked.
Next will be lower planking and brown stuff.
Then final sand, add trennails and varnish.
Will then move onto deck and stern.
Rebates in sheer strake are of course for channels.
This kit is going together well.
 
Regards,
Sam.
 
 

Hull second planking fixed and painted.
This has taken a month, mainly due to too much good weather.
No real problems   ---   this kit is easier to build than I expected.
Next is deck planking and waterways.
 
Best regards,
Sam.
 

Hi and, thanks for stopping by and for the comments.
Deck planking done and one coat of satin varnish.
Got carried away a bit on the aft deck trying to follow
the deck plan in Marquardt's book.
Not 100% happy but it's done now.
Next is bulwarks and stern piece.
 
Best regards,
Sam.