ianmajor

After the threading, I can get back to some modeling. There will be 16 individual ships davits, for 8 boats. You can see from the Huff plans they are very detailed. The grey blended blobs are the Revell effort. The Eduard fret is not bad but still needs work, as they are attached to the plastic from the kit. The side profile shows them as basically bend I bar. So thinning the kit davits down, adding an extra layer for the pulleys which run alongside them, and a few eyelets for rigging and the bolster rails make it about as complicated as it needs to be at this scale. If it was bigger it would require more work which would be easier because of the scale. The cleats look ridiculously big but that is the way they were s you can see from the original photo.
 
This is the first of the 16, and the template which has come out OK. It's for the rear deck, and the kit only allows the option of the boats being outboard, whereas I want everything inboard, so I will have to add some bolsters and probably have to drill it into the hull to take the weight. Now I have some direction I can mass produce them.

Piet,
 
Rats - I take a few days away from MSW and miss your birthday. A belated best wishes and I hope to see much more of your inspirational work to come.

This week I finally got back to the boilers.  We only have a handful of pieces for the boiler so the appearance is a little generic.  I decided to go with a wood for that will be sheathed with brass and blackened.  Unfortunately, I didn't get many photos this week so I wasn't able to show all the steps I wanted.
 
 
Milling the boiler tubes.  The capacity of the TAIG mill prevented me from milling all tubes at once so I had to mill them in pairs.

 
First pair off the mill.  I tried to mill these with a 10 percent stepover but only got through half of it in 3 hours.  I switched over to 25 percent and you can see the difference about halfway through the part.  The previous photo is being milled at 25 percent and you can see the rough finnish.

 
Handful of pieces from the feedwater system.  The top flange on the standpipe supported the boiler tube and the arched webbing on the crosspiece supported the boiler sheathing.

 
Experimenting with the location of thefront of the boilers and the standpipes.

 
 
 The jig i used to crossdrill the standpipes.

 

 
Standpipes with bases added.  I still need to add the rest of the flanges and the webbing in between.

 
Boiler ready to be sheathed.

 

 
 
 

Hello Tristan,
 
I see from your intro that you are from lovely Devon. I hail from further up country.
 
I don't know how far you got with your Victory but I imagine you did at least some hull planking. If you look in the "ship modeling articles and downloads" you will see useful articles on planking. Worth a look if you haven't already done so.
 
Best of luck with this build.

I've finally finished something. The foredeck is complete. The railings are done, the spare anchor placed and it's davit. I replaced the bits on the bow so the railings actually run above them so the scale is a little more realistic. As you can see the entire area is about 5cm, so it's quite busy.

Thank you all, yet again.
 
Today's work was on the Hospital badge that is mounted high on the boat's stern over the upper transom.  The pictures are self-explanatory. At this scale the paintwork is more impressionistic than accurate! I'll be refining the shell on the fore side of the badge more.

Well, some progress to report. The ensign staffs are done. They were made and tapered using the usual square to octagon to round method. The trucks plus a few inches below them are painted gold. I scored around each staff to act as a stop for the paint: it was too small to mask conventionally. For those wondering why the pace has slackened a bit, I've another project to announce shortly.

Piet,
 
Rats - I take a few days away from MSW and miss your birthday. A belated best wishes and I hope to see much more of your inspirational work to come.

This has me interested. I also note that ggrieco is looking in at the moment. With Gehard(Vienna) building and Glenn (ggrieco) in the background I am getting some very high quality vibes!

As I wrote earlier, I have done a bit of "prework" for the Cairo, the 6 larger carriages for the guns are made, but still without wheels, and some smaller parts also missing. But, It is a beginning!
 
From this parts will 6 carriages be built, the first pair of sideplates is visible at the left side

 
Holes for the axles are drilled in a form


 
The completed side parts were glued together with a glue stick, this is strong enough to keep them togehter while milling the lower contour, and is easy to split after.


 
Milled parts still stuck together. They can be split with a sharp knife without any damage

 
The carriages were glued in a form, to get the same result for ever piece



 
The axels were made from toothpicks



 
There is more to come in the next post, hope you enjoy it....
 
Regards
Gerhard
 
 
 
 

Hi Roger
I have the Walking beam engine plans from Gerry Dykstra, in metric scale, and the Edgar T. Westbury plans for a pitman engine, from the Model Engineer Magazine from 1965 in inches. But no photo from the doctor. The Dykstra - engine will fit perfect to the model, as I think, and the Westbury is good in scale for the Cairo too. All this will be measured out, when I have the plans printed, I`ll give an update about this when measuring is done.
 
Regards
Gerhard
 
 
 
 
Hi Ian
 
I hope you will get that! Although I have been building some models at the time, I never have made a steamer like the CAIRO. There will be a lot of new mwthods of building for me, keep fingers crossed that all works fine, please!
 
So a bit more of my intentions: I will try to build the boiler as the original one, this will make even more work than a "normally used" boiler, but there is not too much room under the casemate for usual boilers. It will all take some time, and some things are not cleared for me, how I should do them. All of that will be mentioned by time, I wont hurry too much!
 
Regards
Gerhard
 

Piet,
 
Rats - I take a few days away from MSW and miss your birthday. A belated best wishes and I hope to see much more of your inspirational work to come.

This has me interested. I also note that ggrieco is looking in at the moment. With Gehard(Vienna) building and Glenn (ggrieco) in the background I am getting some very high quality vibes!

This has me interested. I also note that ggrieco is looking in at the moment. With Gehard(Vienna) building and Glenn (ggrieco) in the background I am getting some very high quality vibes!

Piet,
 
Rats - I take a few days away from MSW and miss your birthday. A belated best wishes and I hope to see much more of your inspirational work to come.

This has me interested. I also note that ggrieco is looking in at the moment. With Gehard(Vienna) building and Glenn (ggrieco) in the background I am getting some very high quality vibes!

Piet,
 
Rats - I take a few days away from MSW and miss your birthday. A belated best wishes and I hope to see much more of your inspirational work to come.

This has me interested. I also note that ggrieco is looking in at the moment. With Gehard(Vienna) building and Glenn (ggrieco) in the background I am getting some very high quality vibes!

Hi Glenn
Nice to have you here! So, sit down a little longer, and take another glass..............
 
Thank you all too for your nice likes!
The last days were filled up with even more work for my home improvement, but I found some hours too for the SMS DANZIG. The four davits are finally cut, and the soldering form is almost done.
 
Davits cut, two of them have still their paper sheets glued on. This will be removed after grinding and filing to final shape

 
The soldering form, stages to make it.
1), draw the inner contour of the part you will have to solder. This inner form must be as thick as the part that will be set into the form, 1mm in this case.


 
2), make the spacer for the parts to be soldered in

 
3), cut the inner part of the soldering form, and the place for the spacer


 
Outer parts of the soldering form follow the outer contour of the davit


 
The second outer part of the form will be made today, even the cuttings to the spacer. Some holes will be drilled, they are important to fix the form as well as to place the thin metal sheets that will hold the rollers later.
Will be continued.....................
 
Regards
Gerhard

Hi Joe
Thank you
& thank all for your likes! I hope not to disappoint you with what comes next...............
 
The next parts to make are the davits for the longboats, not easy to do. The plan comes again from the Atlas du Genie Maritime, as most of the parts I built for this model.
 
The plans from the Atlas

 
The copied forms, glued to 1 mm brass sheet. Two more glued to the brass for spare parts

 
First raw cut with the jewellers saw

 
The davit, cut and filed to shape. It took me about 2 hours to come to this piont, there is much more to do until they are ready.

 
Will be continued.......
Regards
Gerhard

Back again with the next part of the pump.
The full lever unit with levers, rods and pistons. The thread at the right side is for moving the pump.

 
The nearly completed pump

 
The pump with stands, everything can move free. It will be no problem, to move the levers with a small geared motor. Two figures will be added, with their hands at the levers, even this figures must be converted from "solid" to "moving" ones.

 
Regards, thanky ou all for your so many likes, and for watching in!
Gerhard
 
 

Stanchions added, stern and bow bitts scratch built. I know they look a bit wonky, but once I have had the pain of threading about 300 tiny needles to add the rails, I will align them properly s they won't go flying off. They are each 2.5mm tall. You can just see the fairleads from Park at Artwox which come up a treat.

This week I finished up the plumbing, reach rods and the other bits that tie the engine to the main shaft.  I decided to go with an oil finish for the wood and was able to oil the cylinder timbers, pittman and flywheel.  It gets a little tight with all the machinery and I wanted to make sure I got everything before moving on.  I'm leaving the throw-out bearings and bearing caps off until the upper works are a little farther along -- I may need to remove the paddlewheels temporarily.
 
Bronze cam frame bearings and caps added.

 

 
Cam rods in to determine the length of the reach rods.

 
Reach rod handles. 

 

 
Engine just about complete.  The steam exhaust stack will be blackened. Next week, on to the boilers.

 

 
Feedwater pump and pre-heater.

 
Starboard side.

 
 
Port side.

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 159 –Deadeye Chains continued
 
Work on the chains and deadeyes has been slow going, but I have a few progress pics to post.  After making the large 16” deadeyes for the lower shrouds and fitting some of them to the channels, I turned to the smallest size – the 6” deadeyes for the skysail mast backstays.  I then started working back upward in size.  The fist picture shows some of the smaller deadeyes, placed in position on a drawing of the starboard fore channel.
 

 
When this was taken, I had not yet made the 9” deadeyes for the fore and main topgallant backstays, but the other sizes are shown.  The drawing is incomplete – note the missing chain plate cleats at the foot of the chains.  The numbers on the drawing are line numbers from the rigging list.
 
I used a slightly modified process in making the small diameter deadeyes.  The next picture shows the rounding of a 9” deadeye in the lathe using a barrette file.  I used a shaped cutter for the 16" and 13" sizes.
 

 
After this step the deadeye was parted off as with the larger sizes.  The next picture shows the set up for drilling all the deadeyes.
 

 
After dropping a few of these down into the chuck while trying to align them in the jaws, I resorted to the blue masking tape in the picture to place the deadeye and hold it while tightening the jaws.  This worked perfectly and is a good solution for those of us with shaky hands.  The next picture shows drilling.
 

 
The holes are approximately 10% larger than the specified lanyard diameter.  The next picture shows the fore starboard channel with all the chains and deadeyes fitted and the capping rails pinned in place.
 

 
The last picture shows the slots for the chains on the port fore channels being filed out.
 

 
Before this step, the positions of the slots for each line on each channel was marked using a string from the appropriate height on the dummy foremast that can be seen in this picture.  A common slot size was used even though some of the chains are smaller.  This was done to allow the eyes on the lower ends to pass through the slot if a replacement is necessary later.  Since the soldered joints take rigging stresses, this is a distinct possibility given the large number of soldered joints.  Best to be prepared.
 
Ed

Ed: no special paper was used, just regular bond. As it's sealed on both sides, (paint on one, white glue on the other) deterioration is unlikely.
 
Thanks to everyone for looking in and for all the 'likes'. It's very encouraging!
 
Today I installed the aft thwart and mooring timber heads, as well as the tiller. There was no indication of a tiller on the draught, so this is my own invention. I may paint the hand-hold in crimson. The tiller was carved and sanded to shape by hand, not turned.
 
At this point in the build, it is time to make a list of what remains to be done. There are ornamental carved brackets at each corner of the coach, two ensign staffs and their flags. Also, there are twelve oars to make. Stay tuned!