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I am working on another project currently (USCG Harriet Lane). But, I did finish the chainplate that attaches to the hull (see photo). I made a jig with nails on a piece of scrap plywood. I used 22 and 28 annealed wire to make the links, fastening each carefully as I made the chain. I then fabricated the'plate' from styrene strip which I painted black. All this will be cleaned up and attached when the masts are in place. I will add a final coat of black at that point. Moving on to masts and yards, I discovered quickly that ME did not provide the proper diameter dowels. The ones found on the parts list were all present in the kit box (although three had a nasty warp), but they were not correctly labeled and not in sufficient lengths (based on the dimensions found on sheet 4). I need to purchase 1@3/32, 2@1/8, 1@1/4, and 1@3/8. No one seems to manufacture or sell 3/32, so I will substitute with 1/8 for the spanker mast. I can source all locally for under $5.00, so I'm not going to request from ME. Small change: I found that the jib boom outhaul tackle does not have a home for the fall which comes off the starboard side of the bowsprit cap. I decided to fix it to the stbd cleat numbered #4, and run the fore royal stay backrope fall to the unused cleat #4 on the port side of the inboard bowsprit. Attached for reference is a simple chart of the five attachments to the bowsprit cap:

Thanks to both of you for the 'heads up'. The Niagara suffers from almost the same problem, but in that case there are 18 guns to adjust. I found this out too late to correct properly, so some of my guns would destroy the bulkhead in real life...

So far this has been a relaxing build. All kit parts seem to be high quality, although making masts and yards from soft and fragile basswood may not be a good idea. I think I will use some spare dowel material for those components. Initial work involved separating and cleaning up various frame and bulwark pieces from basswood billets 1-4. This went very quickly and easily. The layout of components attempted to follow the grain of the wood as much as possible, all burns were complete, and components separated easily with a #11 blade. A sanding stick was used to remove char, and glueing proceeded almost without incident through steps 1-2. EXCEPT for bulwark 3! Apparently kits assembled prior to June, 2024 had a couple of problems: bulwark 3 P&S had a notch about 1/8 inch too low, resulting in the bulwark sticking up above deck level. See photo below. I contacted Model Expo, and they have shipped me a new billet with the modified bulwark 3. All the rest of the 15 port and starboard bulkheads fit exactly perfect. Only minimal sanding (basically the wedge created by the laser burn) was needed for an easy fit of the interlocking pieces. I was impressed with the extremely accurate laser results and the guidelines on the wood. I proceeded to install all pairs from bulkhead 4-15, and made 1-2 ready to drop in. I used angle irons to ensure each bulkhead was 90 degrees to the spine. I then went ahead to prepare the inner stem and stern posts, step 3. The text refers to 'curved lines' printed on the wood for guidance in shaping the rabbet at the bow and stern - essentially the defining the area to be tapered from 1/8 inch to 1/16. These lines did not exist on my billets. Having read on the forum that others had encountered this problem which was resolved by Model Shipways, I contacted them and received a .jpg via email which I printed off on my color printer set to approximately the correct scale (117% in the case of my Canon printer). A little trial and error was needed. The text suggests transferring to the back side of the wood with tracing paper, but it was much simpler to just cut out a stencil from the printed sheet and trace the borders onto both sides of the components. See photos. So, that's as far as I have completed until I get the replacement 'bulwark 3'. I guess I go back to fabricating yards for the Niagara until then. Oh well...

I am taking a needed break from my Niagara build (getting bogged down in the minutia), and I decided to build the Harriet Lane, one of the first Coast Guard ships ordered by the US government. She was built in 1857, and I felt her to be an interesting change from building period sailing vessels, what with her dual propulsion - sail and steam. The kit was designed by David Antscherl. It is well documented with an instruction manual containing numerous color photos. It is listed as an advanced build by Model Expo, but I would call it more of an intermediate build (Niagara or the Constitution being an advanced build). I ordered and received the kit very quickly. It was packed well within another box, but the shipment had been damaged by the postal service (one end of the box was bashed in) which resulted in the etched brass sheet being damaged. ME replaced this sheet after I used their replacement form, and it arrived within a few days. I verified all parts were present (giving me the chance to become familiar with them), and I skimmed through the manual as well. I will start the build experience in my next post, as the dinner bell just rang...

Been a while since I posted, but NRG sells a plaque stating "Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry". And I would add - lot's of time spent waiting for paint or glue to dry. I was making chainplate, but got frustrated - so I set the components aside for now. I planned to proceed with shaping the lower masts, but after 2 miserable trys with round dowels, I decided to get some square stock and proceed from there. It's easy to taper the round dowels, but hard to place the octagonal section and attachment pin at the base in proper alignment with the square section at the crosstrees. I acquired some 3/8 square cherry strip, and I will return to this after the weather warms up (my power tools are in my unheated garage). Having read many comments on when to attach bowsprit (before or after rigging), I decided to 'attach and then rig'. I am working inside out and bottom up more or less. So far so good.... I attached the bowsprit to which I had previously added various fixed features such as steps and , after removing the 2 cleats which prevented easy installation through the precut hole (wish I read some older comments from people who found this problem), and then added the bowsprit cap/dolphin striker, jib boom and flying jib. All had necessary holes, eyebolts, and and dumb sheaves preshaped. I added lashings as appropriate. The initial lines I attached were the heavy bobstays. I completed as many lines as possible without the foremast installed. I decided to leave the spiritsail yard off for now as I felt it's web of braces would complicate attachment of the stays and guys to follow. I will add it when the other bow rigging is complete. (NOTE to future builders - don't forget the 5th. eyebolt placed on the front of the bowsprit cap. It doesn't appear on most drawings.) Whether the spiritsail existed on the original ship is an interesting question. It provides a great deal of lateral support to the bowsprit/jib sticks, but it clearly could not be used for actual sail power - too many fixed lines running below the bowsprit wouild interfere with it's set. And, then there is the question of the jib boom outhaul - where, oh where does it run??? If anyone has photos of it, or plans to visit the ship next year, please check this out and let us know. In modern terms, an outhaul (and downhaul) are used to control shape of a sail attached to a given yard/boom, particularly in strong winds. These can be used to give a sail more belly or to flatten the shape depending on the ship's relative heading to the wind. I'm not sure they cared about such niceties in 1812, but I am installing it and running the line to the rail somewhere.

I was pleased to find this question posted as it puzzled me. It seems the answer would be "no sail was set on the Niagara's spiritsail yard". Rather it is there to provide lateral support for the jib boom and flying jib boom. So, maybe the foot ropes were not needed to attend these standing fixed lines?? I am just rigging this piece of the ship, and I came to realize no sail would fit below the spiritsail yard due to the presence of so many stays, etc. Some research showed that if sail was set on other ships, it was farther out on the bowsprit or jib boom, well forward of the dolphin striker.

I have seen questions from others in your thread dealing with lines that seem to have no attachment points. Some running rigging (that which is used to control sail position) may not have an attachment point to any fixed object other than maybe a cleat, but rather would be directly attached to a sail. I have only studied the lines forward of the foremast so far, and many are of this nature. So, what to do with them? Modern day solution is to tie them (loosly) to any convenient point where they will not be in the way. An unused cleat would be appropriate as well. This may also apply to downhauls, outhauls, buntlines and other lines that control the shape of the sail in various wind conditions. So, in these cases, there is no 'correct' point of attachment, if no sails are present.

Steve, your rigging is outstanding! I'm about to start by shaping mast components (having completed and attached the bowsprit), so I will follow your work with great detail. Jason, one caution with the Niagara plans. They include all the lines needed for control when the sails are set (sheets, guys, some downhauls, etc.). These lines attach more or less directly to the sails. Your Fair American probably does not include these. Most historic ship models do not include them. In my experience, the sail control lines (not to be confused with lines controlling the yards) - at least with modern boats, in which I raced - would not be left in place. These are normally taken down to avoid unnecessarly weathering and chafing. The kit accurately represents the Niagara as it appears today, including all the lines needed for sail control. Net - probably don't add any lines if not shown on the Fair American plans. But it's your call.

Steve, I have a rigging question, and since you are the current most active Niagara builder, I thought I would check with you. I have gone through several other builds and did not find an answer. The outer jibstay tackle: there are two references, in the text and on chart 5 which instruct how to install this piece of tackle. Both refer to use of a fiddle block and double block, but neither fully explain how this works. Assuming the jibstay is attached to the fixed portion of the fiddle block, and the double block is attached to the bowsprit cap via the fall hook, then how is the tackle between these two blocks attached? One drawing shows one end of the tackle line attached to the fall on the double block, while the other shows one end wrapped/belayed to itself. But neither show both ends attached... So, did you just tie one end to the fall, rig the tackle, and fasten the loose end around the block tackle? Seems this would work, but a bit clumsy for real world use. By the way, I am finding your rigging tutorial very illluminating when it comes to understanding the complex rigging found on the current ship. Bravo to you for sorting it all out. Personally, I feel like I just fell down the rabbit hole! Best regards, Steve Brock

I'm finally getting to a new post. I have been busy doing a lot of the details on the deck. I have completed the bowsprit pieces and spiritsail yard, painted as required, and I am ready to mount and assemble. I was worried about setting it at the correct angle relative to the hull, but I finally realized it wasn't an issue as the angle would be fixed by the 2 point of attachment - the deck mount between riding bits and the point where it rests on the leading edge of the keel. So, no problem...either I got it right on hull construction (or if not, nothing I can do about it). But, it is important to get the dolphin striker dead vertical, so I took care with that piece at the tip of the bowsprit. I have attached many of the line attachment features, as this is easier to do prior to mounting and having to deal with the hull. I am in constant fear of snapping off some piece as I work in another area, and having the bowsprit sticking out just makes it worse. I found that silver soldering was very straight forward - less than $50 in tools from Amazon (a pen torch, a mat that is heat proof and some silver solder in a tube mixed with flux). Easy peasie to make the fittings for the bowsprit and jib. Did you know the rings that secure the flying jib to the jib boom is the Crans-Iron? Saw that today in the latest Bluejacket Shipcrafter's Newsletter. Next, I planned to make the chainplate, having attached the channels a while ago. This I can only describe a pure drudgery. You need to make 32 sets of 4 links, and it is tedeous at the 1:64 scale. You used to be able to buy sets from ME - but no longer (and I think they should have come with the kit, given the cost). So, I did some internet searches for manufactured, but nothing was available in the correct scale. I found 2 references to construction: one in Chuck Passaro's instructions (see chapter 15 found on the ME sales site for the Syren kit) for building the Syren, and another in Part 2 of the article in the NRG Journal, 2024 vol. 69, No. 2 written by Darrell Markijon. I'm sure there are more techniques mentioned throughout the various builds in this journal. Chuck used #28 annealed black wire while Darrell used #24 of the same. A 100ft. roll is only about $4.00 so the material is cheap to acquire. They had different techniques for constructing the strope that attached the eyebolt, but used similar style to make the other links. Note that some people have made the bottom (preventer) link from wire while others used a piece of flat brass on this and other ship kits. I don't know what is on the ship today, but I believe the flat plate is the correct historical rendering. I made a jig as described by Chuck to bend the wire (essentially just headless nails on a board on which to wrap the wire, and followed his technique, securing stroping link to the eyebolt with superglue after making sure of orientation of the eyes. To date I have made all 32 eyebolts, and some of the links. And twenty more are required for the upper shrouds; I will do those later. Having reached a level of frustration, I have moved on and will complete these when needed, probably when I attach the shrouds. I still am undecided on the preventer - maybe I will try making plates. By the way, I did a search for technique on the ChatGPT AI. It gave me 4 fairly detailed solutions to making chain plate, all of which being more or less sound. I think AI tools will be very useful to our hobby as we get used to them. So, what now? First I am constructing an elevated cradle for the ships boat above the main hatch on the deck - again based on the design I found on Chuck's discussion for the Syren, Chapt. 15. Then on to more work on the bowsprit; or maybe I will build the yawl. Picture to follow soon....

Onward and upward (pun intended). I am pretty much done with deck details, and I will be moving on to mast construction. I only rigged 2 guns, as I don't like the cluttered appearance of a full complement of rigged cannons. I did the two just to show what it's like. By the way (see photo) I used Syren Shipyard blocks. They are true 1/8 (3mm) pieces. The new ones I got from ME were 5/32, just like the old ones that came with the kit - much too large for a good appearance. I will add coiled lines at a later date. I still need to add the bowsprit, for which I constructed all parts last year, and finish my cradle for the ship's boat which I plan to mount on the deck. I have the completed main hatch, but I want to position the boat before I glue the hatch in position. I may add the channels as well, as they have been fabricated. Some notes on photos: I built galley stack from scratch, and I added a stair well to the fore hatch (I'm assuming there had to be some access in the fore part of the ship). I made the pin rail braces from 0.025 in. piano wire which I bent into a simple "7" shape and slipped under the rails where plans indicated. Using super glue, I did not need to drill mounting holes... Each pin rail has 2 short pieces of wire underneath with holes drilled into the bulwark to secure with superglue. You can't see these support wires. I will probably mount channels the same way. Water pump was scratch built with the use of plastic strip for details. Now that I know how to silver solder (turnedd out to be super simple with solder flux, heat pad, and a small hand torch acquired from Amazon), I would have done it that way, for a better look. Simulated bolt heads on the canons and capstan were made by drilling shallow holes in the object and glueing in short sections of 22 gauge wire. Once the glue set, the wire was trimmed. As many other builder have done, I only installed two cabins to avoid the crowded appearance of three. The current ship has three, but I am assuming the original had fewer - certainly a companionway at a minimum. Also, I did not use the binnacle I purchased. There must have been one on the 1812 ship, but the model piece did not look 'right'. Current ship appears to have a binnacle plus engine and other controls on top of the captains skylight... Taped lines will be used for the boom guy. Since they attach to the same eyebolt as the tiller sheets, I thought it would be easier to add them now and rig later. There are several spots where various sheets are secured to the deck or rail, but I am unsure about adding all. Some attach to the clew of triangular sails, etc. Without sail, I'm not sure they would be present. (On a modern racing yacht, they are usually removed and stored when sails are stored or furled.) Well, anyways, I am now going to assemble the bowsprit (but hold off mounting) and construct the two masts. I won't add the bowsprit until the masts are installed. My desk workspace is limited, and I am in fear of snapping the bowsprit off due to my carelessness at some point....

Sergey, you are right on. I meant they sent me 4mm (5/32), and I am asking for 3mm, which is about 1/8in. I have some 2.5mm, but lack the patience to use them in large quantities. I have used them sparingly, such as with the tiller blocks.

Making slow but steady progress. Here is a picture of the bow area sans bowsprit and with a blank dowel foremast placeholder. I rebuilt the kitchen stack from scratch and I added an entry with stairs in the forward hatch. I have all furniture completed as well as channels. I have installed the rudder and attached blocks to the tiller, but I am waiting for an order with ME for my 1/8 (4mm) replacement blocks. Kit was shipped with a large quantity of 5mm blocks which (while almost the same) look very much out of proportion. I noticed this when I rigged a gun. So tiller will be completed when I have blocks for boom guy (which share an eyebolt with the tiller tackle). I also plan to make a cradle for the ship's boat that will sit over the main hatch midship. I am also waiting for additional bronze pins for the fife rails - I miscounted the number I needed when I first ordered from Ages of Sail. This is my bit of vanity, as I should have used wooden pins for historic accuracy.

Thanks Sergey, very nice work.

I second the comments on the wood quality. I had a LOT of trouble trying the construct a ship's boat, as the wood would splinter or otherwise resist making clean shavings when shaping the interior.. I purchased some holly strips to plank the deck, and I made cabins with mahogany. Many other builder have done much more substitution. I also found the supplied lines to be inadequate. They frayed, unraveled, and broke easily, so I bougt line from Syren Shipmodel Company. I replaced the cleats with wooden ones likewise purchased from Syren (cleats in 1812 were typically made from wood probably to save cost and they were easy to fabricate). By the way, please note that the kit does not supply nor can you purchase all the sizes recommended on the plans. Blocks - well, the kit supplied blocks will do the job, and most people would not notice their irregularitites. Syren's blocks are excellent, but to replace all might run $100 or more. By the way, count your blocks. I found I had been shorted one size, but Model Expo shipped me more at no cost. Guns - The carronades are twice as long as they should be, but repacing them is not easy so I stayed with those in the kit. Gun ports are way too large for a real naval vessel. As for historical accuracy, as mentioned there is no accurate information available. The current ship has to meet US Coast Guard standards) Hull colors are unknown as existing paintings done at the period are unclear on this. Deck bulwarks of the period were typically red, not green. Cabins - too many for a working naval gun deck. I have left two off. It's been mentioned that they would interfere with the capstan, but I have seen other historically accurate ships with similar configurations - they probably just did not use all 8 capstan bars at once...the current ship undoubtly uses an electric winch for hoisting spars and anchors, so the existing one is for show. Ships's boats - unlikely it carried 3, and definitely not slung from davits. Hammock netting - maybe they had it, maybe they didn't. I don't like the way they look, so I left them off my ship. Rigging - rigging changed constantly at the discretion of the captain and ship's master. Modern rigging of the ship is designed for crew efficiency and safety. So, probably not historically accurate, but looks nice. Even today's ship has changed configuration since the kit was released. See the discussions on adding bumkins to the bow area as done by some modelers. Binnacle - the ship must have had one (probably stowed below when a battle was being fought), and a recent photo showed one installed over the existing captain's cabin skylight. I am leaving this cabin off, but I did find a very nice and inexpensive scale replica of a binnacle for the period on the Crafty Sailor web site. So, I'm adding that. History: I found a good article written by Joel B. Sanborn@Dartmouth.edu titled History of Niagra and published in Ships in Scale in the March 18, 2001 edition. There is also a UTube video about the Niagara and the history of it's actions on lake Erie in 1812 and 1813.