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Everything posted by Old Collingwood
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Evening all, I managed a couple of hours on this today, starting on the bow I fitted the Two raised sections over each anchor howser, they still need painting - the glue residue will vanish when I flat coat the whole thing at the end, I am also starting to populate the deck - capstans, mushroom vents etc etc - plenty more to fit yet, paintwork needs a bit of a touch up but that will be done when all the parts are fitted. OC.
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I know how you feel Chris at 1/700 scale viewed under max strength oprovisors a dust speck looks the size of a football. OC.
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Finnish T26 tank by Baker - Mirage - 1/72 Finished
Old Collingwood replied to Baker's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Loving your work Patrick - so hope there is a part number (T72) in the kit 😉 OC. -
"Dont it just prove to be true" little slip ups try to trip us up like an invisible tripping up thing, good progress Chris. OC.
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Hi Alan, I used a Earth Shade Acrylic wash over it - just brushed over - I use it on my figures etc. OC.
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Thank you kindly Kevin, I had a few issues with the decking but got there in the end (I hope). OC.
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Afternoon all, so with the couple of areas where the deck vaneer had lifted, I got the front water break and while holding in place I marked the front edge, then moved it out the way - then I cut carefuly along the one pencil line, I was then able to put some more glue under both edges and pressed both down, I was also able to lift the rear section close to the rear bulkhead and put some more glue under and push it back in place. I also touched up the barbetts - so this is the current situation, the rear deck has been weathered more than the other decks as it used to get very wet very often. OC.
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Had a thought about what might help the lifting wood decking - checking my details for the kit, the front water break sits right where its lifting - so it got me thinking I could offer up the water break on the deck mark a line then cut a line, I should then be able to lift this section (forward of the water break) and add some more glue under neath and fix it back down. It was odd that the front piece was in a whole section and not seperate pieces in front and behind the water break (it would have been easier then). OC.
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Evening all, I spent a good few hours on this today - but one thing or another I just can't get it to look decent - its a combination of factors - needing to handle it so much to get work done on it means some parts like the PE are getting damaged, even some of the paintwork is getting marked in areas where its not possible to mask and re spray. The biggest issue though is the wood paper decking its incredible thin - thats why I decided to leave the backing on it, in combination with my glue - it gives it a bit of wiggle room to get it ligned up, as I feared the glue on the back of the wood sheet would grab and not allow any movement and the sheet would just rip in many places, so yes it went down but its been bubbling and raising in areas, so I have been trying to partially lift it with a knife and get more glue underneath and using the dryer make it glue back, but this is just not doing the trick. I even tried giving the deck a wash and drying it - yes that shrunk it back down but still left a few bubbled areas, also in the process of fiddling with the decking I have warn paint off the Barbette's. So I decided to glue the deck assemblies to the hull to try to move this forward - to be honest my enjoyment of it is lost as its not going to be a decent model when finished - far two many arrors. I honestly thing these fine delicate ship models at this scale are beyond my skills - my figures are a different animal and even tanks in 35scale are easier just not delicat 700scale ships. OC.
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Mike "Shhhhh" I have to confess - because the wood sheets are so thin and super delicate - I left the backing on and glued them down using my Mig Ammo Acrylic glue designed for clear and PE parts its super strong and can be diluted, it was the less dangerous option with the sheets being tissue paper thin. OC.
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