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shipaholic
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The pinnace bottom was painted with white lead, whereas the longboat bottom was varnished, probably the yawl as well. There is a commentary on the boats in AOTS. Most likely the longboat was also painted with white lead by the time they reached Australia, because the carpenters had to replace the bottom at Tahiti because it was destroyed by worms, and Cook noted in his journal that the pinnace was unaffected due to the white lead- 79 replies
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I don’t think there should be parrels on the lower yards according to all my references. Just truss pendants during the Endeavour era
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Hi Kristyn You shouldn't get to fussy about the first layer of planks because they won't be seen and you will sand them a lot and probably need to use some filler on them where there are dips. They are just a base for the thinner second layer planks. Those thin second layer planks on the sides are the the ones to concentrate on and they are tricky ones because they are thin and don't like lateral curvature without kinking. The darker wood second layer planks below the main wales don't too matter much either because once varnished its difficult to see the individual planks. Cheers Steve
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Hi Kristyn Good job on the stairs. That block under the stairs is a ridiculous idea by Occre. On the real Endeavour there was a different height deck under the forecastle, so instead of the block I put another deck under the forecastle and a ladder instead of stairs, which I thought was more appropriate for a small scuttle.
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Yes I did my skylight (or companion as it is called on the draughts) similar to the replica vessel. If you look at the table of works carried out during the refit on page 72 of Parkins books it says "Companion on the Quarter Deck to be framed with sash light all round & sash & Grating on the top" which describes the replica and mine, but not the other ones such as Marquardt's version. The hatch on the lower deck of my model is a dummy one, I just glued the frame onto the deck, and painted the inside black under the grating.
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Ah yes, the main hatch. Some ideas for you. I had go at a couple of different versions as you can see in these pics. Notice I installed another hatch to the hold on the lower deck. I wanted my hatch to be open so you could see there was another deck below and another hatch so I settled on a grating over only half of the hatch. Yes the Occre rings are ridiculously large so I made my own from copper wire and did the hatch like Marquardt shows in AOTS, didn't like it. A grating looks more suitable for an 18th century ship. If I could go back and do mine again I would do it different, with more curvature as in the other photos And I hope you don't do the skylight like Marquardt shows, that is more like a 19th century clipper skylight and contradicts the description given when Endeavour was refitted (the description is in Parkins book) The replica vessel skylight is correct.
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Looking good
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Hi Kristyn You really didn’t need to fill those gaps in the outer bulwarks, they will be covered by the planks you add later. On the subject of the hull planking, the instructions tell you to use small nails on the first layer of planking, but that first layer of planks needs to be heavily sanded to get a smooth base for the second layer of thinner planks. Those nails make sanding very difficult. Use dress making pins to hold the planks down until the glue dries then remove them with pliers. cheers Steve
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Another thing, I’m not sure whether the instructions cover this, but I cut away that beam across the main hatch once the deck was in place
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Hi Kristyn, something I just remembered from my build and something I should have realised to advise you of earlier. You should have planked the upper decks after fitting them so as to cover up those notches where the frames are. Not sure what the Occre instructions say about when to plank the decks.
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Only on the quarterdeck because it gets narrower towards aft. And it’s still a cylinder. As an example exercise - Cut a piece of wood the width of the most aft beam, lay it on your template so that the arc intersects with the lower edge at each end, you will see that it is not 3 mm high at the centre
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Hi K Just something to note before you shape the deck beams, I remember when I did mine that as you move aft on the quarterdeck the amount of rise at the centre of the deck needs to reduce, i.e the diameter of the curvature remains the same as the deck width narrows. So at the aft most beam the centre is only raised about 1 mm. Make sense? I didn’t do mine mathematically just trial and error, and I just used small chocks on the centre of the beams at the rear of the quarterdeck because they can’t be seen anyway. Alternatively you could use template for the foremost beam and as you move aft use the same template but you will find that for the same curvature the shorter beams have to be less raised at their centre cheers Steve
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Good job on the decks, I now wish I had done my decks with tree nails like that. cheers Steve
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I just used clear satin varnish on my deck planks. Deck planks on ships were frequently scrubbed with water and stones (called holy stones) so they would have resembled raw wood.
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For the tree nails I used a sharp pencil. Just put it in place and twist a couple of times. The lower deck is a good place to practice your planking skills because not much of it will be seen
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So if I interpret Allan correctly the centre of the deck is 6” higher than where it meets the gunwales. Which is about 15cm so at the scale of this model (1:54 which I reckon is closer to 1:51) you need to raise the centre of each deck 3mm. Seems right, can’t remember how much mine was (that was 10 years ago) but yeah about 3mm
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All the decks are flat on this model. When I built mine I only put camber on the weather decks, the others can’t be seen except through the main hatch if you don’t put a cover on it.
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Hi KJ now is the time to consider one small modification, that’s if you want to. This Occre model does not have a deck camber, as all ships do. It’s very simple just glue an extra strip of wood on top of the deck supports and sand to a curvature before fitting. Don’t worry about the lower deck because you can’t see that except through the hatches.
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Thanks, and feel free to ask anything
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Welcome KJ, good to see another Aussie on here, I will watch your progress on the Endeavour with interest
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Hi Marty, I will follow your build with interest Cheers Steve
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Hi Dave Nice work shaping the masts. But before you go any further check your scale, those masts look too tall in that last picture. Cheers Steve
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Welcome Peter good stuff so far, I will follow your build with interest. I just checked out that new version of Endeavour on the AL website, its completely different to their old version, with many laser cut wood and metal parts it looks so much better, and I think the hull paper template idea is a great to get everything where it should be
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Masts and the use of power tools
shipaholic replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I based my masts on the drawing in Marquardt's AOTS, I believe he based his drawings on Steel's Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging. Below is a photo from my copy of Steel. The taper is complex as the masts are narrower at the bottom as well, particularly the mizzen. Steel's drawings show a lot of detail, mostly unecessary in model making but gives you good idea how the masts should look. These drawings are for a larger 36 gun warship, and I don't believe Endeavour had the iron hoops as well as woolding (according to Lees Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War). A PDF of the Steel drawing is available here https://www.hnsa.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/mastplate4.jpg.thumb.JPG.87f47f01bea8cdf89a9536400b089891.JPG)
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