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shipaholic

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  1. shipaholic
    A bit more work today, finished off the footropes on the spritsail yard and finished fitting the fore topmast stays
  2. shipaholic
    Hi Mark Thanks. The nail marks in the planks were done using a 6B pencil, just position it on the plank, press and rotate. Practice on a scrap to get good at it, and keep the pencil sharp. Cheers Steve
  3. shipaholic
    I haven't posted on here for a while but I have been plugging away doing bits and pieces when time permits. I have been working on the rigging and have almost finished the topmast standing rigging. This week a little diversion, I bought a ships wheel kit from Syren. Its the correct size and looks much better than the metal one I had there. Great kit from Chuck - everything goes together so precisely. First pic is the metal wheel I replaced.
  4. shipaholic
    Here is his website http://karl-heinz-marquardt.com/ Cheers
  5. shipaholic
    Hi Dave Yes they are burton pendants, the bloocks would be hooked to them. The two blocks between the topmast shrouds are called sister blocks, for the topsail lifts. The AOTS has long stropped blocks hanging from the masthead
  6. shipaholic
    Hi Dave I followed the AOTS and My mast tackles are a little lower than the yard arms. The yards will sit just below the top woolding. Be aware that the topmost tackles in the AOTS have a block, but most likely had a thimble for a block to hook into, according to several other sources. cheers Steve
  7. shipaholic
    Not a silly question Karl. I used water based paint. French Blue from Admiralty Paints by Jokita. I got it from an online Hobby Store here in Australia. You shouldn't have any problems gluing things on oil paint especially if you use CA
  8. shipaholic
    The stand is a rough one I made out of mdf just to hold the ship during construction. I will make a proper stand when I'm finished, probably like the small supports I made for my first Endeavour in this pic
  9. shipaholic
    Thanks for answering that Greg
  10. shipaholic
    Thanks Mike and Michael. Yes soldering is very tricky and takes a bit of practice, yes the hardest part is holding very small pieces together whilst soldering. One trick is to pin the parts onto a sacrificial piece of wood that will inevitably scorch. If the solder is a bit thick or lumpy I just file off the excess. I have a great little blow torch thats good for small work.
  11. shipaholic
    I have been working on the topmast shrouds recently. I used two single blocks to simulate the sister blocks on the shrouds. For the thimbles in the pendants I cut a short piece off thin copper tubing.
  12. shipaholic
    Hi Dave looking good mate, that longer bowsprit looks right eh? cheers Steve
  13. shipaholic
    Welcome back Rexy. Beautiful neat planking job. I'd like to spend every weekend on my build but my missus usually has other ideas. Cheers Steve
  14. shipaholic
    Good job Dave but a lot of work, did you see my post on using fabric band-aid material for the meeces?
  15. shipaholic
    Hi Steve I am building this same model, however I am doing a lot of scratch building and have not followed the instructions very much. This is because I am an experienced builder. I have found that although detailed, the instructions aren't very good in places. I assume that the only deck you have already planked is the lower deck and will not be seen very well, if so just leave it and move on. Cutting the deck planks short as in the instructions in not a very good way to do it, I left most of my planks their original length. The planking pattern in the instructions is also wrong. Do not use contact adhesive, it looks like your planks are sitting up because there is too much glue under them that has partially hardened before you laid the planks . Use white PVA glue. Check out my build log to see the decking pattern I used. A lot of the joins are just drawn on in pencil. If there is any thing you need to know, just ask, we are here to help each other. Cheers Steve
  16. shipaholic
    Hi Dave I also did a lot of research before I did my lower shrouds, and concluded that putting rat lines only every sixth between the aft two shrouds was most likely correct. I personally think the AOTS shroud/deadeye arrangement is wrong, it's allowing for two back stays on each side because Cook mentioned in his log on one occasion that both back stays broke, I think Cook meant one on each side not both on one side. cheers Steve
  17. shipaholic
    Hi Dave thanks Yes the battens aren't mentioned or shown in the AOTS, I think the AOTS drawings are based on the drawings etc in Steel here http://www.hnsa.org/resources/manuals-documents/age-of-sail/the-elements-and-practice-of-rigging-and-seamanship/page-1/ scroll down theres some great drawings of masts and yards with more detail than AOTS. Like I've said before the AOTS is not gospel Cheers
  18. shipaholic
    Thanks for all the compliments guys. Michael (Ca.shipwright) - the metal work is very very tricky and those stunsail boom irons, being so small, were super tricky to do. The hardest part is holding the parts together during soldering, then not getting too much solder. I am not very good at it and it took a few tries to get them right but i persisted. I used silver solder. I have a silver solder kit that I bought, which consists of the solder, a mini gas torch and the flux. I used some 1/8" brass tube for the rings and brass rod hammered flat on four sides to make it square, for the arms. If you look at this photo you will see that the rings are a little off centre but once on the model its hardly noticable because they are so small. There was usually too much solder on the joints so I just filed off the excess. Cheers Steve
  19. shipaholic
    I have been making the stunsail booms, plus I added a few more items in preparation for the rigging. The bowsprit traveller, the iron horse, and some cleats. I fitted the belaying pins to the bow, I used brass ones that are blackened because the are a better more realistic size and I reckon the look just like dark wood once blackened.
  20. shipaholic
    Hi Steve i think the wooden cannons are better, the plastic ones don't look like cannon from that era. The wood ones look more like the real thing. Google search "Cooks cannon" should come up with pics of the cannons recovered 200 years after they were thrown overboard. They are most likely the same type as would have been on the Bounty cheers Steve
  21. shipaholic
    One more pic
  22. shipaholic
    I spent the day finishing off the foremast lower yard arm and then painting all the yards.
  23. shipaholic
    The wood work on the yards may be finished but there's a lot of fiddly stuff left to do on them. Today I started making the studdingsail boom irons. Why aren't the photos showing?
  24. shipaholic
    Hello Greg, Thanks, yes all sanding only.
  25. shipaholic
    I have finshed all the yards, a lot of sanding!!. Just need to add the hoops for the stunsails. Now comes the big job of adding all the blocks and footropes

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