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shipaholic

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  1. shipaholic
    I have been making the stunsail booms, plus I added a few more items in preparation for the rigging. The bowsprit traveller, the iron horse, and some cleats. I fitted the belaying pins to the bow, I used brass ones that are blackened because the are a better more realistic size and I reckon the look just like dark wood once blackened.
  2. shipaholic
    Hi Steve i think the wooden cannons are better, the plastic ones don't look like cannon from that era. The wood ones look more like the real thing. Google search "Cooks cannon" should come up with pics of the cannons recovered 200 years after they were thrown overboard. They are most likely the same type as would have been on the Bounty cheers Steve
  3. shipaholic
    One more pic
  4. shipaholic
    I spent the day finishing off the foremast lower yard arm and then painting all the yards.
  5. shipaholic
    The wood work on the yards may be finished but there's a lot of fiddly stuff left to do on them. Today I started making the studdingsail boom irons. Why aren't the photos showing?
  6. shipaholic
    Hello Greg, Thanks, yes all sanding only.
  7. shipaholic
    I have finshed all the yards, a lot of sanding!!. Just need to add the hoops for the stunsails. Now comes the big job of adding all the blocks and footropes
  8. shipaholic
    Thanks BE, yes I agree when the sag happens realistically you know the tension is right. On my previous models I left the horizontal running rigging such as braces a bit loose then soak with water using a wet paint brush which makes the rigging sag realistically and then it stays that way once it dries out
  9. shipaholic
    Its 37 degrees Celsius here today and my ship in the garage is suffering the sags, the mainstay especially and the shrouds are loose. I brought it inside and placed it on the bookcase in my study (my indoor mancave) where my Victory normally sits. Looks okay there, my Vic might be looking for a new home when I finish the Endeavour.
  10. shipaholic
    I put some yards in place to see how they look. Iphone lens makes them look a bit thicker at the near end
  11. shipaholic
    Hi Rexy Nobody knows for sure about the colour scheme for the Endeavour. At the time it was customary to paint a lot of the deck fittings, bulwarks and cannons red ochre, the ships sides were usually painted with varnish of pine or tar (not black tar but sort of like varnish colour), wales were blackened. So very much like the Replica. However the replica has white below the water line because a lot of ships from that time were painted with white lead below the water line, this may be not correct for Endeavour because historical records suggest Endeavour's hull below the water line was coated in what was called "brown stuff". I have done a lot of research and studied many paintings and ship models from that era. I think the replica vessel is probably right except for the white. However I suspect that the blue along the sides could have been blue and red, or even blue white and red, as was customary on British naval vessels at the time. I was almost tempted to paint the sides of my model blue and red, just to be different to the plethora of Endeavour clone models out there Cheers Steve
  12. shipaholic
    Most of the weekend spent making the yards, all done by hand, just lots of sanding. Something not clear on the AOTS drawings is the fact that the yards that are eight square in the centre section had battens nailed onto the flat sections. The battens were 1" thick so at 1:51 scale thats 0.5mm - the deck planking material is 0.5mm so I used some of the left over planks for the battens. Its terrible open wood so hard to keep edges straight. SIx done six to go. Pics are of the main yard.
  13. shipaholic
    Very nice work Rexy
  14. shipaholic
    After a long absence from the shipyard I have started making the yards. Started with the gaff
  15. shipaholic
    Welcome back Mike, I have been only doing drips and drabs too lately. I am up to exactly the same thing on my build, just finished the gaff and working on the yards Cheers Steve
  16. shipaholic
    Nice work Dave Regarding the stays, the AOTS is wrong I think, those mizzen stay arrangements are from a later period. The mizzen stay and mizzen top mast stay were set up using dead eyes according to Lees (the replica also has this arrangement) Mizzen preventer stays were not used at the time of Cooks voyage. The main stay, topmost stay and topmost preventer stay are correct in the AOTS Cheers Steve
  17. shipaholic
    Hi Dave Looking Good You should leave the hoops off the masts like I did. According to Lees' Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War the hoops were seldom seen on models before 1800. Steve
  18. shipaholic
    Michael, May I answer your question. If your masts are the correct dimensions the topmost hounds should be no larger than the rounded part of the topmost near its base. That way it can raised up through the cap and when in place the cap hole is still a snug fit around the mast Cheers Steve
  19. shipaholic
    Thanks Michael In relation to your question about caps on Dave Rowe's build, here is an explanation; The cap has a square hole to fit on the top of the lower mast which is squared off Here is the lower mast cap in place. It has a round hole for the topmast. The round hole must be a slightly larger diameter than the thickest part of the rounded section of the topmast As Dave mentioned the topmast is raised through the hole in the cap, once in place the fid is put in place to stop the topmast from sliding back down. In the third pic shows the base of the topmast and the fid. The base of the topmast is squared off and wider than the rounded part so its not able to be slid down through the hole in the cap, that why the topmast must be slid up through the cap. The square part of the topmast base is just smaller than the square hole in the top so it can fit through The topmast cap is the same deal, a square hole for the top of the mast and a round hole for the topgallant mast to slide up through. For model building purposes you can just slide the cap down onto the topmast or topgallant mast from the top It all fits together nicely without glue if all the dimensions are right Cheers Steve
  20. shipaholic
    Hi Dave and Michael I will post some pics on my build log showing how the masts and caps work Cheers Steve
  21. shipaholic
    Hi Dave Good pic of the replica top. Shows how the battens have a curvature, a point missed by many plans etc
  22. shipaholic
    Hi Dave I used this mesh it came in a pack of 10 of these circles that are 30cm diam, it was long time ago that I bought it, can't remember where I got them, it was either Spotlight of Lincraft. If you can't find something similar I could post you some. I still have 9 unused ones Cheers Steve
  23. shipaholic
    Today I made and fitted the netting for the staysail
  24. shipaholic
    I have got all the masts done and painted now. Spent today making the Jeer blocks. I am using single blocks for both the upper and lower jeers, like the replica has
  25. shipaholic
    Nice work Dashi, those bumpkins look exactly right, they are the same angle as the ones in Parkinsons sketch, you might have convinced me now about the existence of bumpkins. But I think the knightheads are little too tall for my eye. Cheers Steve

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