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Tigersteve

Mayflower by Tigersteve - Model Shipways

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This marks the start of my build of the Model Shipways Mayflower kit, designed by Chuck Passaro. This is the last kit in my possession to build. I've been following the Medway Longboat (1742) project with interest, but I will need to hold off on that project for future. Mayflower will be my third project and first actual ship build. Kit supplied wood will be used for the first layer of planking. I will be using cherry for any wood that will be left unpainted. Deck planking will be maple or cherry. I have yet to decide. Below the whales will be panted tallow. Modifications to the color scheme will be addressed as we are further along.

 

Those of you who have followed my other projects know that I work slowly. I anticipate this project will take much longer than the previous ones. My goal is to attain a quality representation of the Mayflower. I received the Syren Serv-o-Matic serving machine at the end of my Pinnace project and have been sanding the char from the parts. I will be treating the wood with several coats of Wipe-on-Poly before assembling all parts. I will include photos in my next post.

 

Included in this post are photos of Chuck's prototype of the Mayflower.

Steve

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I built this model several years back. The blunt bow was the trickiest part. You might want to think about getting a proportional divider to help with that section and read up on Chuck’s ticking off bulkheads.  Have fun with it.

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Sanding the char from cherry wood is tedious and time consuming. One tip I can share is not to sand the char from sides that will be glued and unseen. One is likely to sand pieces out of square. Sanding was done with 220 grit progressing to 400 grit. A test fit of the brass tubes reveals that the holes need to be sanded slightly so the tubes can spin freely. 

 

Two coats of wipe-on-poly applied with a fine sanding between coats. The below photo shows the work at this point. 

Steve

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Edited by Tigersteve

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Partial assembly of the machine. The gears are not glued to the brass tubes. I suggest test fitting the gears and rotating them before you glue to make sure they rotate freely. Two of my gears were just a bit off when I glued them and this caused them to not rotate freely. Parts are laser cut precisely. Chuck is mailing me some new ones. 

 

Before assembly, a third sanding and coat of Wipe-on-Poly was applied. A very smooth finish was the result. 

Steve

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The serve-o-matic came together nicely.  One issue I had was when it came time to glue the 'back' gears to the tube I used CA as suggested in the instructions.  I accidentally ham-fisted it and slid the gear just a little too far up the tube against the support.  Of course the ca bonded instantly.  It didn't glue the rod to the support but the pressure is just a bit too much so it didn't rotate freely.  Solution was to debond the support and move a mm out and worked fine.  Every time I touch CA is a disaster....

 

I also like the Medway longboat but also need to focus on what I already have.

 

Look forward to seeing your progress here on this kit.  Seeing how well you did with the pinnace and the longboat I am sure this will be another impressive result

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Thank you. It is a beautiful machine. I’m not looking forward to gluing with CA, but it must be done. The cherry wood is very nice and perfect for this. I’m looking forward to clearing this little project off the work space and starting the Mayflower. 

Steve

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Probably not the smoothest functioning Serv-o-Matic, but it’s functioning fairly well and complete. Chuck sent me a new set of gears so I have a couple of extras.

 

I’m making a couple of adjustments to my workspace. Mayflower construction will begin soon

Steve

 

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Edited by Tigersteve

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Steve; count me in to follow your build. You mentioned that you worked "slow"...in my world that's the only way to work. Working with maple and cherry sounds great...I love them both. Where will you get the wood?...Moab

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After much planning, trial, and error, I was able to retrofit this dry-erase board to part of my workspace. The board was no more than $10 at Home Depot. Not magnetic, unfortunately. It is mounted with two closet brackets also from HD. Scrap wood was used to space the board from the wall. It holds the Mayflower plans nicely. 

Steve

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Edited by Tigersteve

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As expected there are a couple of discrepancies with Model Shipways’ laser cutting and the plans. Bulkhead 2b is flattened on one side where it should be round. The bulkhead former is not an exact match to plan sheet four. Although, it seems to match on the other plan sheets. Not major issues, but annoying nonetheless. The bulkhead can be adjusted easily enough. I wonder why these discrepancies happen. 

Steve

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Hi Steve,

.      I love these 16th - 17th century ships with there bluff bows, (never attempted before!), so my chair has been pulled up to follow along.

.  

.           kier

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Hi, was wondering if the straight edge, which should be curved, had any char from the laser? If not it is likely that the timber was too small or not placed on the datums correctly and the laser ran over the edge. You have a small section on the RHS missing.

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E-mail John at Model Expo that picture and he will have another one out to you ASAP. At least that has been my experience in dealing with them. 

Edited by Osmosis

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With the placement of the notch above the damage that would be a natural place for the bulkhead to shear off when removed from sheet.   Not a mistake in lazing a mistake in design.

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Good morning, gentleman. I’ll attach a photo of the sheet to clarify. Jim, I do not think it was a design mistake on Chuck’s part. It seems like the shape of the bulkhead was altered by Model Expo to fit the sheet. That still makes little sense.

 

Osmosis, I could definitely contact Model Expo, but at this point I will most likely just make the modification myself. 

Steve

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I would still send them the above pic just out of curiosity. It looks like Thunder was right and the laser is programmed not to run off past the margins of the layout but to cut parallel to them until it intersects the next curve. That would be my guess.

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Steve:

I would definitely call them and get a replacement. I would not try and correct that myself. I think it would be difficult and certainly not what you were looking for when you bought the kit. You paid your money and you should get what you paid for. It might take a few days to get a replacement piece in the mail, but they will do it. 

 

Russ

 

 

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The bearding line was transferred to the other side of the bulkhead former. In preparing to create the gradual taper from the bearding line to the rabbet, I attached 1/16” pinstripe tape. Instructions call for a taper to 3/32”, but referencing a discussion in Mike’s Mayflower build, it must be tapered more to accommodate a smooth transition into the 1/8” stern post after planking. The hull will be planked with 1/16” thick planks. 

Steve

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Not sure how tape would stick to wood throughout all the handling required to build the hull. I'd either do the pinstripe with paint, or place the tape just before the hull gets its finish. Otherwise I have a feeling you're going to be constantly fiddling with that tape and replacing it several times due to lack of adhesion before you get a finish on the hull.

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