Kevin

you have made a very nice job of this build, was it yr intention from the start, to not paint it?

745 hours

 

redid the 3  after channels on the stbd side, unglued, separated and rebuilt the chain-plates, look right now, the 4 straight lines on the plans from under the channel are supports, no mention at all for them in the instrucions

Dan Vadas showed an idea under MSW 1.0 where he adapted one with a rubber band and a small piece of wood to get the measurement under a deck. fpr making columns/pillars

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Ddiy&field-keywords=micrometer

 

i found dowels hard to get an exact measurement from so i invested in a very cheap micrometer, worth it's weight in gold, with a little bit of thought it can help in all sorts of ways with out hobby

 

(Kevin's disclaimer - other sites and types are available)

hopefully not of topic to much, but i am possibly going down the semi kit route next build, is there a site that does timber kits - like lumberyard in the UK

Before i start, im not ready to start something like this, but is there a British supplier of timer kits - like lumber yard, but after my current build is completed, i fancy something that is not total kit related

 

 

 

Kevin... for some reason your numbers seem to be getting larger at an exponential rate.... you don't think you need to visit Dr. Per for shipaholic therapy do you?

 

Andy

oh yes please

your build is very nice, good work on the yards, im about 2500 hours from deciding what to do next

The Mizzen pinrails are full ... this presents an issue which I will discuss later ...

 

 

what was the issue with the mizzen pin rail?

well done, can i come to yours - so as to show me how to use my PROXXON saw table

welcome back 

i reckon another 1000 hours to get to stepping the masts, going on the possibility of a 3500 hour build, plus then i will have to look at and fabricate every sail, including stuns, oh and 20 minutes to replace the storm damaged copper tiles

 

If it was not for some very clear photos on Gils log, and the text in Keiths Juliers book (poor photo,s)i would still this morning be ranting about the chain-plates

lol - the bowsprit just does not stick out far enough, 

 

the real thing must have been quite imposing, and an extreamly long tree

 

good work

hi grant she looks very nice, in the last few photo's

 

well for me Easter came and went, had some time off, so managed to get about 20+ hours in on my build, may be a different kit but i am years behind you.

 

lol i am doing the dead eye strops at present, the information that was lost in MSW 1.0 is beginning to haunt me as i come across errors that will have been discussed  and remedy's found previously

Derek , good morning

 

The dead eye strop started as a pain, what i did was make a small hole using a 1mm drill bit where the pronges of the strops are fitted in the channel, then push the fixture into position with a pair of thin long nose pliers, worked a treat, to keep them in place a little dab of c/a glue, and covered with the outside strip

Hi Kevin,

 

Good to see you back to building and making progress so quickly.  Who need's Jotika's instructions when we all have each other?  One question I have on your latest photo.  The plans show the chain plates attached directly to each other and then to the plate that affixes them to the hull.  In your picture you seem to have an additional "tab" beteween the chain plates and the piece at the bottom, and it looks like the completed chain plates are longer than those shown on the plans?

 

Patrick

Patrick 

thanks for the reply, that's the point i was try to make, the plans don't show the tabs and the instructions don't mention having to cut the tabs out, im sure Gil would have mentioned this in MSW 1.0 , but i guess we are having to learn all the same mistakes again, Anyway, i am at present sorting the problem, channels are removable from the hull, and the glued link on the bottom of the dead eye strop is easily unglued, - no damage done, 

Too bad that isn't real gold !  Then I could sell the ship for $100 dollars

lol

i made a mistake, but is not to drastic to put right and LOL it has nothing to do with no glass in the 1/4 gallery

 

The chain plates

 

the instructions with the kit are to say poor is an understatement, it basicly shows you the advantage of being able to close the loop like a nappy pin

 

what is fails to tell you is the process for making them up

 

it was not until i studied Keith Julliers explanation and looking at Gils photo's 

that i noticed that the actual plates then self s have to be separated into two or three parts, 

 

good god nearly had Murphy visiting my new workshop

 

i have posted a photo to try and explain, the flashing between the links has to be removed and then build them in a link form

afternoon everyone

 

Took the build out into daylight, channels, dead eyes and chain-plates continue

total build time 737 hours

 

Good evening everyone

 

very little progress today, but did get time to understand the Jotika way of fitting Dead-eyes with their new strops, the Deadeye is pushed into the open ended strop and the two little side bars hook into the wood of the channels, it is such a tight fit that it would take quite an effort to pull then out when it come to rigging this leaves a closed loop to attach the chain plates to the assembly

 

please excuse the pathetic drawing 

well the footprint has certainly increased now, lovely work

 

well done

Good evening every one - and happy Easter, as it already Sunday in some places

 

a lot of work done on the build - not much to show for it

 

stbd aft chain channels have been dry fitted and all the decorative strips in-between then have been cut and fitted into place, then primed and painted black, i took some photos, but need to redo them again, not good enough  to post, my new workshop has no natural light, so no detail showed up

i am trying to best work out how to paint the stips as they pass through different colour bands

dont invite me to go fly fishing with you, i get cold walking 10 feet from the front door to the garage,, lol i will go to ASDA to get my salmon, oh and by the way, no wain today or snow, just a wind that goes straight through you, or maybe its just me, my body is getting used to loosing weight as part of my new years resolution 19 kg so far

Prep work to secure the channels to the hull, using 1mm drill bits 

Akula (Russian: Акула - Shark) was a submarine built for the Imperial Russian Navy. The boat was designed by Ivan Bubnov and was an amalgam of the previous Minoga and the Kasatka class submarine designs. The design was presented to the Marine technical committee in late 1905. Initially the boat was to use petrol engines but these were replaced by safer diesels. The boat's design was a single hull/ saddle tank type with a diving depth of 25 fathoms (45 m). Significant initial problems were experienced and the electric motor and propellers which needed to be replaced. Akula was the first Russian submarine able to cruise long distances. In 1912 Akula made the world's first multi-torpedo volley with five torpedoes.

She subsequently served in the Baltic Fleet during World War I making 16 patrols and unsuccessfully attacked the German battleship SMS Beowulf. She struck a mine and sank near Ventspils in November 1915 on her 17th patrol.

 

 

Displacement: 370 long tons (380 t) surfaced
475 tons (471 m³) submerged Length: 56 m Beam: 3.7 m (12 ft 2 in) Draft: 3.4 m (11 ft 2 in) Propulsion: 3 shaft Diesel electric
3 diesel engines 1,900 hp (1.4 MW)
1 electric motor 300 hp (220 kW) Speed: 10.6 knots (19.6 km/h) surfaced
4.6 knots (9 km/h) submerged Range: 1,900 nautical miles (3,500 km) surfaced, 38 nmi (70 km) submerged Complement: 34 Armament: 4 x 18-inch (457 mm) torpedo tubes (bow) and 4 drop collars