harvey1847

Well my friend, rest assured I'll drink one for ya! Our prayers are with you in your medical situation. Hope all is well. Take care and know we'll be praying for whatever your proceedure is. Keep us all posted....inquiring minds want to know. The shipyard will be there....looking forward to mines and torpedoes.

Many thanks Daniel,
I hope to be finished with the lower deck frame by Friday, if not then at least over the week-end.

Hello All!
 
Just a small update… Lot of Works around…
 
I´m dealing with the Port Stern timbers. I have started with the piece #3 which I think is the most complex.
 
I have started cutting the patterns and glue them to a piece of wood. Then sand it using the “Stern view” first and the side one (plant) to cut it with the scroll saw. I hope the pics below will explain the process.
 

 

 

 

 

 
You can see clearly where is the error.  I have been thinking about plastering that joint but I think will be better to repeat the piece.
 

 
The piece is not correct ( see pics marked with pencil) so I will have to repeat it. At least I have a “reference” piece and now I know how I have to cut it properly sand it more or less… trial and error.
Best wishes and happy modelling.
 
Daniel.

Hu Ha!!
 
I thought the brick oven was going to be all the stuff in the kitchen... but Nooo! I forgot about the cupboard...with practicable drawers on 1:48... totally insane, amazing...
 
Best wishes,
 
 
Daniel.

Thanks guys. Druxey, actually the drawers are made with half blind dovetails
 
For the utensils I thought to just borrow the admiral's but somehow they don't fit.....
 

 
Well a scaled down version then.... I leave it up to you to guess how I made these...
 

 

 
Enough playing around let's get back to the serious stuff (but maybe next build a doll house?)
 
Remco

Thanks for the nice compliments.
 
 
 
Sure, if I can hire you to do the drafting of the furniture, as I love your drawings. So just send your idea's and we'll make it a joint effort.
 
The upper half of the cupboard as two features, one shelf for pots and one to hold plates, I got the idea of some pictures I found of galleys.
 

 
 
 
Remco

I'm still sorting things out and testing.  I made a batch of colored glue using EdT's instructions but with black pigment instead of the raw umber he used.  I've tested it and may have to add a touch more pigment.
 
Here's a photo of a wood sample I worked up.  
 
Bottom section is cherry, boxwood, and swiss pear with three coats of wipe on poly, sanded with 600 grit paper between coats. I'm happy with the poly and will (hopefully) use boxwood for the keel, stem, and stern (including rudder).  Cherry is framing and Swiss Pear is the external planking.
 
Top half was with the colored glue.  Boxwood, Swiss Pear, and Silver Maple.   I like the effect though I need a tad more practice with it.  Maybe a bit darker but I'll hold until I can see it under something other than a gray, overcast sky and indoor lighting.  Testing will continue.
 

Greetings to all,
Sadly there isn't much progress to report, but that only means that there is a little bit to report. I've managed to paint the wales black and am pretty glad at how the weight is evenly distributed along the cross section. If you notice the second picture, you can see that she is balancing herself on her keel. The last picture will show you the start of the lower deck being worked on. I've only just started filing away at the deck beam to accept the carlings.

tin cheap and effective tortures

more

Hello Joe, thanks for your comments, they are of course quite correct.  Yes, sometimes what our mind sees is not always possible to use in reality.  Wishing to get away from stains and or dyes may all be well and good but in model building not always practical.  The upshot is that a nice dense grained light colored wood may be the logical answer, like boxwood or pear that can be stained to the desired color.  Although walnut could also be a consideration to get away from stain,  in my case.
I'm familiar with the scale issue with wood and cloth for ship models,  When I can finally get back to my VOC ship and the VOC yacht in a lamp I'll have to do some research in finding the right fabric for the sails.  
 
Right now I'm quite satisfied with the results I'm getting with the dye, as long as I rinse some of it off and lightly sand it with a fine grit sandpaper.  
 
Thank you for your positive opinion on how the model is coming along.  Between some yard work I can only manage to cement a few deck slats to the model.  But even a few is progress.  Before we know it I'll have the deck all done and go to hatch hinges and other things.
 
Cheers,
 
 

Yeah Ray!
 
dO IT your way! what the hek!
 
sicerously after reading your post I have felt kind of ashame from the last post I wrote down. Who we are to judge you or your model skills? Sorry about that. I guess sometimes we all go pretty dramatic here. You have done much more work in a week than others - like me - in a month.
 
some pics of the process would be very appreciated. I mean the sanding of a single frame i.e.
 
best wishes Aaaaand dooo iiiit yooour Waaaaay!
 
 
 
daniel.

Hello All!
 
Just a small update… Lot of Works around…
 
I´m dealing with the Port Stern timbers. I have started with the piece #3 which I think is the most complex.
 
I have started cutting the patterns and glue them to a piece of wood. Then sand it using the “Stern view” first and the side one (plant) to cut it with the scroll saw. I hope the pics below will explain the process.
 

 

 

 

 

 
You can see clearly where is the error.  I have been thinking about plastering that joint but I think will be better to repeat the piece.
 

 
The piece is not correct ( see pics marked with pencil) so I will have to repeat it. At least I have a “reference” piece and now I know how I have to cut it properly sand it more or less… trial and error.
Best wishes and happy modelling.
 
Daniel.

Hello All!
 
Just a small update… Lot of Works around…
 
I´m dealing with the Port Stern timbers. I have started with the piece #3 which I think is the most complex.
 
I have started cutting the patterns and glue them to a piece of wood. Then sand it using the “Stern view” first and the side one (plant) to cut it with the scroll saw. I hope the pics below will explain the process.
 

 

 

 

 

 
You can see clearly where is the error.  I have been thinking about plastering that joint but I think will be better to repeat the piece.
 

 
The piece is not correct ( see pics marked with pencil) so I will have to repeat it. At least I have a “reference” piece and now I know how I have to cut it properly sand it more or less… trial and error.
Best wishes and happy modelling.
 
Daniel.

Hello All!
 
Just a small update… Lot of Works around…
 
I´m dealing with the Port Stern timbers. I have started with the piece #3 which I think is the most complex.
 
I have started cutting the patterns and glue them to a piece of wood. Then sand it using the “Stern view” first and the side one (plant) to cut it with the scroll saw. I hope the pics below will explain the process.
 

 

 

 

 

 
You can see clearly where is the error.  I have been thinking about plastering that joint but I think will be better to repeat the piece.
 

 
The piece is not correct ( see pics marked with pencil) so I will have to repeat it. At least I have a “reference” piece and now I know how I have to cut it properly sand it more or less… trial and error.
Best wishes and happy modelling.
 
Daniel.

Today I’ve managed to take the Triton out of its jig in order to start sanding the inside and outside. I used a sanding stick to work on the outside hull and was quite pleased at how quickly it faired the outside. When I turned my attention to the inside hull, I realized that the straight edge of my sanding stick was causing it to leave gouge marks. I then decided to make a new sanding stick with a ½” PVC pipe I had left over from a plumbing job I did at the house. I’ve come to the conclusion that a straight edge sanding stick is good for the outside moving it fore to aft, and the PVC pipe sanding stick is good for the inside moving it port to starboard along the frames. I’ve also managed to place and treenail the keelson down, add the gun port’s sill and trestle, and am currently working on the wales. The following pictures will show you how she’s coming along.
 

Work on the sternpost has begun, complicated lining up with aft deadwood but moving along slowly is fine by me.
 
Ben

Hello All!
 
Just a small update… Lot of Works around…
 
I´m dealing with the Port Stern timbers. I have started with the piece #3 which I think is the most complex.
 
I have started cutting the patterns and glue them to a piece of wood. Then sand it using the “Stern view” first and the side one (plant) to cut it with the scroll saw. I hope the pics below will explain the process.
 

 

 

 

 

 
You can see clearly where is the error.  I have been thinking about plastering that joint but I think will be better to repeat the piece.
 

 
The piece is not correct ( see pics marked with pencil) so I will have to repeat it. At least I have a “reference” piece and now I know how I have to cut it properly sand it more or less… trial and error.
Best wishes and happy modelling.
 
Daniel.

Hi all,
Made some more progress over the weekend. Got tired of watching Olympic Curling so I proceeded with the glueing up of the other hawse timbers. I got a little off track on the top of these but I can add and subtract materials as needed here because it will be planked both inside and out - no worries.
 
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 44 –Inboard members continued, Stern fairing and half-frame bolting.
 
Work continued on the iron strapping with some breaks to work on other things.  Other things included installing wood members over the strapped areas.  In the first picture a portion of the lower deck clamp is being glued to the frames.
 

 
The forward section of the upper deck clamp has been installed at the top of the strapped area.  As soon as the clamps are removed when the glue has dried, these members are immediately bolted through the frames with copper wire bolts epoxied all the way through the hole, making an extremely strong connection.
 
In the next picture a section of bilge ceiling is being installed.  These heavy members will fill the area up to the lower deck clamp.
 

 
There will also be a few strakes of bilge ceiling below the installed strakes.  The iron strapping will also be extended down to the floor heads.  The next picture shows one of these extensions.  The break in these straps will occur behind frames and will not be visible.
 
The next picture shows additional deck clamp sections installed, including forward sections of the middle deck clamp.
 

 
All these members are epoxy bolted as described above. 
 
Before progressing much further aft with the iron strapping, I wanted to get the aft half-frames bolted securely.  They have been held in place since installation only by the end-grain glue joints.  I did not want to risk breaking these with the hammering of the strap rivets.  Before installing bolts on these frames they needed to be faired.  This is easier before the copper bolts are in place.
 
In the next picture 80-grit sandpaper is being used on the feet of the cant frames to bring them flush with the deadwood.
 

 
In the next picture all of the cant and half frames have been faired at their feet. The cant frames, in their scores, end right at the bearding line line.  However, the half-frames are not installed in scores but bolted directly to the deadwood.  These were not faired to a feather edge at the line but were cut back to about a 3” thickness above the line.  The triangular gap was covered with planking.  It acted as a limber, or drainage channel, for water that would otherwise accumulate between frames and in the joints between the frames and the deadwood.  This feature was evidently not included at the feet of the cant frames. 
 
The next picture shows the feet of the half-frames being squared off above the bearding line.
 

 
There will be more to say later about the path of this water to the pumps.
 
With the model inverted it was a good time to fair the deadwood back to the rabbets in the keel and sternpost.  The next picture shows a shallow gouge being used to rough out the shape above the keel rabbet.
 

 
This can be risky if not done carefully.  In the picture the curl of shaving shows that the gouge is moving parallel to the keel using the pressure of my thumb.  I find that cuts go easier at an angle to the edge, slicing the wood -  and it is never a good idea to cut toward the rabbet.  The gouge is moving in the same direction in the next picture – held as in the last picture with the left hand, in this case pulled gently with the right – always with very light cuts.  Do not attempt this with a dull tool.
 

 
In the next picture a #0 cut riffler is being used to smooth out the gouge marks.  This was followed by 120 then 220-grit paper.
 

 
The last picture shows the feet of the half and cant frames after the sanding.
 
 
 
With the final lines of the frame bottoms established the bolt holes were laid out and drilled.  These are now ready for the bolts.
 
There is a lot more sanding to be done on the lower hull, but this much was sufficient to get the bolts in.  Now for the other side.
 
 Ed

Hoi Freek, good to hear from you and thanks for your input.  Well, I guess you may be right about scouring of the deck.  What I was after was a little contrast against the light grey steel deck and a little artistic licence    The deck scouring may have been done on the surface ships but maybe not on subs.  When I visited the USS Cod in Cleveland last year her deck slats were also plain teakwood.  Not that should be an indication that the O19 was also plain teak.
Let's imagine that this deck is brand new and they didn't have the time to scour the deck yet   The few pics I have from the commissioning ceremony I can make out the deck slats clearly being somewhat dark, making me believe that they were still in natural teak color.  
I hope all y'all can go along with my reasoning       If yuns feel that it's still too dark I can try to lighten it up more with some 360 sandpaper before I seal it.
 
Not much done today, had to do some, well actually a lot of trimming of our crape myrtle trees in de front yard.  I did manage to cement a few slats to the forward deck though    This'll be slow going because there are many hatches that require individual slats and they are all on an angle 
 
Cheers,
 

Hola Amigos! (put it mexican accent like in the movies)
 
 
Well... It took me almost one month.
 
The worst part has been to remove all the patterns and PVA glue from the frames. I did it using just water and a brush wetting the frames (three or four at a time. Then with an x-acto blade I scrapped the glue or the pattern working extremely carefully trying not harm the wood...
 
here are some pics. Not in order.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I have printed out the stern timbers and the lights. That´s where I am going to move on in order to make the main wales. I am kind of following Wang´s log.
 
Happy Sunday!
 
 
daniel.
 

Work on the aft deadwood is well underway, also started the sternposts.
 
Ben

Small update,
 
Stem Pieces, Lower and Upper Apron and Fore Deadwood completed and glued to the keel.
I used some bamboo treenails and a #65 bit to add some heavy reinforcement to these pieces
as you can see.
Now I need to do the tapering up/down from 14" at top to 10" and the keel.
 
I have started making the aft deadwood pieces from 15" stock.
 
ben

A Small Update, Keel has been completed and false keel added, I like the contrast between the swiss pear and the boxwood, now I have started on the stem pieces.
 
ben
 
EDIT - Added missing picture back that was lost. 4-2-14