Beef Wellington

Finished the whales, I think needed a bit more curve but followed the plans. When I look at my Agamemnon, it should be okay. Gun deck ports and bulwark painted.At this point I am going to copper the hull for the next couple of weeks. I find it easier to do now as nothing to damage when I have it flipped over or sticking out to snag .
 

Preparation of weather decks planking
 
Though some of these treatments were done before, I want to tell about them here.
 
I marked beam positions onto baseboards of fo’c’sle deck and quarterdeck referring deck beam plans of Elephant. These marks will show the points where deck planks should be butted.
 

 

 
Next is preparation of weather deck planking plan.
 
There is fo’c’sle and quarterdeck planking plan of anonymous 74 gun ship of 1798 on pp.46 to 47 of AOTS Bellona. This plan is showing each plank is tapered and curved towards both ends.
 

 
Also outboard plank is blended into next inboard plank like drop strake of hull, instead of joggled into margin plank. Although it isn't showing those for fo'c'sle deck or quarterdeck but upper deck, plan of another anonymous 74 gun ship also shows same feature.
 
https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/382650.html
 

 
I didn’t represent these features on upper deck planking because planks of both ends will be hidden by fo’c’sle deck or quarterdeck. But most of planks of weather decks can be visible except aft part of quarterdeck which is hidden by poop deck.
 
So I prepared deck planking plan with Adobe Illustrator.
 
Below images are sequence how I draw planking line of quarterdeck. Plan for fo’c’sle deck is also drawn in same way. I only hope images below will be help for readers to understand how I drew these lines.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Poop deck is also treated as I did for fo’c’sle deck and quarterdeck except beam positions are referred to inboard profile of Elephant because Elephant deck beam plan isn’t containing that for poop deck.
 

 
Finished planking plan are then printed. I printed two sheets of each deck planking plan. One sheet will be used for general reference when I plank each deck.
 

 

 
Another sheet is cut into several sections at beam positions and temporary stuck on deck baseboard edge as guide for checking each plank width.
 

 
Planks are set into simple holder I made from surplus woods. I tapered 20 planks at once with help of this holder.
 

 

 
Actually planks should be bent sideways as they are going to outboard. They will be bent with help of heat and steam from kettle.
 
After these preparations were done, I started planking of quarterdeck. As posted before I split quarterdeck baseboard at slightly starboard area of hatch opening.
 
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/2926-hms-bellerophon-1786-by-fake-johnbull-amativictory-models-172-vanguard-kit/page/4/?tab=comments#comment-822079
 

 
Firstly I only glued port baseboard and starboard baseboard wasn’t glued at this point.
 
I firstly planked fore and aft centre area of quarterdeck because I had to finish tiller rope from wheel and rudder as well as its associating balusters and rail rope. These fittings are last parts to be fitted onto upper deck except heals of other rudders down from gangways or fo’c’sle deck which will be less troublesome.
 

 
Tiller ropes and rudder rail rope are finally set using tweezers operated from starboard aperture of quarterdeck. Before gluing rest of quarterdeck baseboard, I photographed these areas with poop deck baseboard and stump mizzen mast dry fitted to their places. Although these areas will become can’t be seen as building proceeds, positional relationship of these fittings connecting several deck levels are quite understandable from this picture.
 

 

 
Rest of quarterdeck baseboard was finally glued.
 

 
Although they can’t be seen clearly, tiller ropes are barely visible through rudderway opening by illuminating these areas carefully. I understand this is only my self-satisfaction, but at same time, I’m delightful to see representation of tiller ropes show their value.
 

 

Great solution Rob.  I think you state some very wise words, important to understand the various sheer lines that features that follow, either the sheer of the deck or the sheer of the wales.

Just a quick update before I take a short break to start work on Sphinx (next week).
I'll be splitting my time for this, but will glue and make a few parts while I'm waiting on Sphinx stuff to dry etc. Nonetheless, my priority is Sphinx as you'll want to see it released as soon as possible.
 
For Granado, this is roughly where I'm currently at. On the side which will be exposed frame-wise, I added treenails. My intention was to drill and use black monofilament for these, but I got sick of breaking drill bits, trying to get inside the curve. I then decided to use a jeweller's beading tool to make an impression with a rounded head in the centre. A soft pencil was then used to colour the indent, and any excess removed with an eraser. The keel was then slotted into the jig and the double frames carefully glued onto the keel. I spent a few evenings doing this to make sure it was right and everything was level. A few slivers of wood were pushed into places to ensure an even gap between frames, whilst things dried.

 
Clamps were used to hold the upper timbers in position against each other.

 
The keelson is made from two parts, perfectly fitting, as seen here.

 
I have started to build the riders and their ribs, but I've now stopped work as I highlighted an error to Tom at CAF. The side floor timbers are supposed to be slotted on the underside. This is because some of the internal timbers run through those slots, and they are needed so those planks can be located in the hull. Those timbers are missing those slots, and Tom is now aware and remaking those to send out to customers. 
 
I have, however, glued the keelson into the hull, and you'll see that image next time.

I've been pondering for a while (analysis paralysis!) how to get the rubbing strake round the stern without it standing proud, and with enough contact for it to glue well... Planking the hull proved that trying to find any shortcuts here would cause pain down the road... so... here's my attempt.
 
It's 4x1.5mm walnut, and pretty sturdy, so I thought why not bend it to shape, then bend another plank to width to go inside round the stern, and then sand the taper caused by the counter into that double width so it ends up single-width by shaped... 
 
Something like this...
 

 
Clearly that cross-section would need to be tapered as it went round to the sides.
 
I was concerned that it would be hard to get that inner-taper right, so I used a plank with less height on the inside at the bottom, to make tapering easier. (1.5x1.5mm)
 
Some pictures follow...
 
1. Rough shaping the parts...
 

 
Painting before gluing in place...
 

 
3. Gluing in place with carpenter's glue... (and checking the gap is 18mm from the top of the main rail, to the top of the rubbing strake)
 

 

 

 
And checking that the decoration would fit at the bow... 
 

 
4. And a few photos of the result... 
 

 

 

 
Because the stern piece goes right round, the other side should be much easier by comparison.
 
Anyway - thanks for looking in, and happy building
 
Rob

I have finally finished installing the rivets on the port side.  As these would have been hand forged, I used square copper wire fit into a size 77 hole.  After all the wires were inserted, the hull looked like a porcupine on a bad hair day.  In the photos, I have started to flatten the heads using a flat file and rotary sanding disc on the Dremel.  Once all the heads were flattened, I finished up with 400 grit sandpaper.
 



Once the sanding and filing was completed, I put a coat of Watco's on the finished side.  After both sides are completed I will add a second coat and then paint the wale.  Over time, as the pear darkens, there will be more of a contrast between the castello above the wale and the hull below.
 

Have you truly been away?  I think we all have periods when other activities are the focus.  Keeping my eyes peeled for a new build log 🙂

Upper second planking done
 

Finished first plank before sanding:

 
and after some good sanding:
 

About 4 years. Snake took 3 months, the larger ones about 8 months each depending if they have sails or not.

You are very observant and correct so... here are the ships in order that I built
 
HMS Victory, first but learnt a lot as the instructions were very thorough
 

Second, Soleil Royale
 
 
 
 

 
Third USS Constitution
 
 

 
 
Fourth HMS Surprise

 
 
Fifth is the HMS Agamemnon here next to my seventh (completed 3 weeks ago) HMS Snake, together for size comparison since same scale
 


 
 and sixth as you recognized the Occre ship Montanes
 
 
 
 


IMG_4420 5.21.21 PM.HEIC

Have you truly been away?  I think we all have periods when other activities are the focus.  Keeping my eyes peeled for a new build log 🙂

Have you truly been away?  I think we all have periods when other activities are the focus.  Keeping my eyes peeled for a new build log 🙂

A few more snaps.  

Some further photo's showing the securing arrangements around the bow and the base of the mainmast. 

I have continued fixing the stays and finishing the upper shrouds and ratlines.  Nearly there!

Hello everyone,haven't updated for a long time for busying with other things.
Just as stern post and dead wood, fashion pieces and transoms are processed, I will talk about some of my ideas.
POF or fully framed model because of its complex structure, it is difficult for ordinary modelers to process these parts by hand. Even modelers with high skills need a lot of time to complete these complex parts. I use CNC to process these parts, which is simple and fast, and can save a lot of time for you.
 
This is just a commercial kit. My goal is to make a POF model that only a high skilled modeler can do before, without taking 5-10 years for a modeler with ordinary skills.The following two figures show the pre assembled parts (deadwood) and the pre machined parts (transoms, fashion pieces, after fashion pieces).

 

1:36 Cumberland 1774
 
 
 
However, there is no doubt that this kind of pre assembled parts will increase the cost, and the price will be much higher than the basic version.
 

1:36 Cumberland 
 

1:48 Cumberland
 

1:36 Cumberland
 

 

basic parts,peer wood
 
The basic version only has 'basic parts', almost no pre assembly and processing parts. It is suitable for modelers with high skills, and the price will be cheaper. The high-end version is relatively expensive, which is suitable for modelers who want to make models quickly and easily
 
I don't hide my idea. My goal is to enable modeler to make "high quality" models ，But I won't copy or imitate the master's model. My UK partner and I calculated all the parts according to the historical data (contract) and Navy principles, referring to the original draughts of NMM.
 
All the parts you see above have not been polished or hand polished. In other words, these are the parts provided by kit. After your own fine polishing and waxing, you can get very good results.
 
 
 
Jack
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

This is the 1:48 and 1:36 Trident, boxwood, Chinese and English versions.The trident of boxwood is just to show the effect at present. There will be Trident made of copper in the future.

 

 

 

 
I have also designed some molds for batch processing, and I will release the parts for batch processing these days.
 
Jack
 
 
 

Hi,
This is a validation model for kit development, and the work of hull part will begin soon. About 70% of the design has been completed. My partners will make 1:36, 1:48 and bow section respectively. All the photos from their buildlog are authorized for me to release in MSW.
 
This project started from NMM's original draught, True Image Model, a ship model studio from UK, which obtained a commercial kit license from NMM.
 


 

 
 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now there are three modelers involved in the model validation. We will complete the bow section kit first, because it is relatively simple.
 
The wood used in kit is boxwood / pear wood.
 
Welcome to pay attention to our follow-up progress.
 
Jack

The model is almost ready, some details need to be added like chains etc. I also re-did the base....again!  

Hi all,
 
Thanks for the likes. I've made a little progress by drilling out the (almost) vertical hole through the transom for the rudder post. In retrospect, perhaps I should have done this before I glued on the stern post, as it would have made for much easier access to drill from below, but the stern post was glued in place, so instead, I measured up where the hole should start, and then used a 1.5mm drill glued inside some 2mm plastic tube to make the initial hole. The plastic tube allowed me to align the drill by running the tube along the stern post, thus creating the right angle for the hole. The photo below shows that the stern post steps in towards the top (as does the rudder) so by putting the 1.5mm hole vertically above the top of the aft extent of the stern post, the hole ends up in the right position. Hopefully that makes sense... I neglected to take any photos of this stage.
 
With careful checking at regular intervals, the hole eventually made it's way through the king plank on the deck, and it was then opened up using a series of drills from above (being careful not to scratch or dent the stern post as the drills made their way through to the other side) until the hole was approx 7.5mm. At each step, the hole was checked to make sure it remained central to the king plank. (As it turns out this was approx 1mm to starboard of where it should be, but I'd rather shape the rudder post so that it looks central than have the hole off-centre - this won't be a working model after all, so I can cheat )
 
Once opened up, the rudder was constructed from it's laser-cut parts, and with some rough shaping of the rudder post it was test fitted. The rudder post fits beautifully, with a nice small gap between the sternpost and the rudder (it had dropped away from the hull a little when I took the photo below, but it does sit closer). I'll bevel the fore edge of the rudder and perhaps taper it towards it's aft-end before finally fitting, the top of the rudder post will need to be shaped for the tiller, and there'll be plenty of work to do to get it coppered, etc... before it gets fitted, but I was keen to ensure it would work before I went too much further.
 

 

 

 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Rob
 

Hi all,
 
A little progress to report. I finally bit the bullet and - using a sheet of 1mm walnut from Cornwall Model Boats - for the curved sections, I made up the parts that edge the deck (the "covers" as they're described in the instructions). 
 
It took a few attempts, but eventually I got some neat parts cut out and shaped for the stern and bow, and the centre was 1x5mm walnut. I used left over stock I had lying around, but that doesn't mean it's not in the kit - it just means it came to hand more easily, and I'm lazy by nature.
 
The process for the stern and bow sections went something like this.
 
Scan the top-down plan on Sheet 3 that shows the deck edge.
Print out the plan to 100% size.
Cut out, and modify the shape at the stern and bow to fit the model itself.
Mark out some sections so that the grain roughly follows the length of the pieces being cut out... 
Cut out the sections and pritt stick to the walnut sheet (noting the direction of grain, so it runs along the piece)
Cut out the sections carefully to shape and then steam the pritt stick'ed patterns off the wood by holding with plyers over a boiling kettle for a few seconds.
Trial fit, sand and trial fit again until it's ready.
 
Here are a few pictures of that process and the results...
 

 

 

 
Having glued these parts down with carpenters' glue the gaps were then filled in with the 1x5mm strip.
 

 

 
Right... happy building to you all  More soon.
 
Rob
 
 

Hi @BranPie
 
I bought straight from Syren in the states. I've done that before and never had any problems. 
 
Rob

Brilliant Stuff Rob .. Making Rope is deffo fun and adds a real sense of accomplishment too.. 😊
 
Eamonn