Jack Panzeca

Here's a perfect example of tool overkill. Recommended for only the most serious tool-aholic! The piece created is the top of the brake pump, based on the illustration of David Antscherl in The Fully Framed Model (vol. 2). The piece is hexagonal with a tapered cylindrical head, a central bore and a discharge tube. Here's how I made it:
 
1. The hexagonal shape was laid out using the 7:10:7 technique.
2. The hexagonal shape was created using the Byrnes disk sander with the table top tilted at a 45 degree angle
3. The piece was transferred to the Sherline lathe where a center bit was used to start the bore.
4. A drill bit was used to enlarge the bore to it's final diameter.
5. Thin strips of 180 grit and 320 grit sandpaper were used to taper the head to a cylindrical shape.
6. The piece was transferred to the drill press where a center bit was used to mark the opening of the discharge tube.
8. The discharge tube was drilled using the appropriate bit.
9. The piece was transferred to the Byrnes table saw where the final sloping outboard face was created using the fence set at the correct angle.
10. An over-sized cylinder was created on the Sherline lathe for the discharge tube.
11. A center bit and drill bit were used to create the inner diameter for the discharge tube.
12. The outer diameter was then shaped using a cutting bit on the lathe.
13. The discharge tube was parted at it's correct length and glued into the pump tube.
 
While this is a very small piece there are many angles involved, not to mention a bore which needs to be perfectly centered and a very thin walled discharge tube. Could I have made this piece using only chisels and a Dremel drill? Yes. In fact I did so, but discarded the effort because the machined version was better. Would I buy all the equipment just to make this piece? Certainly not. But I have had these tools for many years and they have paid for themselves many times over. Total time to make this piece using the above method was twenty minutes. The less successful hand produced version took over an hour. Those of you who love their power tools (Is Norm Abrams from This Old House present?) will totally get it. The rest of you will think I've gone off the deep end. I respect all views!
 

 

The perfect recipe for a workshop for scratch or semi-scratch builders:
 
1 part Byrnes table saw
1 part Byrnes thickness sander
1 part Byrnes disk sander
 
After simmering, add in 1 part Sherline Mill and 1 part Proxxon planer
Finish with Sherline lathe and mini drill press
 
The above recipe will require a large portion of lettuce (green) but the finished product should last a lifetime

Okay Boyd, since you asked, you need one! And no, you can't live without one. There now, feel better?
 
Yes there are others that would possibly do the job, but the difference is, the Byrnes saw is an absolute joy to use. It will bring a smile to your face every time you use it. And after all, don't we do this hobby for enjoyment? It will certainly come into its own when you start scratch building, but even kit bashing will give it a serious workout. If you're looking for it to "pay for itself", it will do that if you mill your own lumber to size - eg buy sheet stock from Hobbymill and rip it down to size. BUT, you don't buy one of these works of engineering art to pay for itself. You buy one because you can! And for the sheer enjoyment of using it.
 
So, have you placed your order yet?
 
Oh, and don't forget to order the Byrnes Disc Sander at the same time. That brings almost as big a smile to my face, and probably gets used even more frequently than the saw.
 
Let us all know when you've pulled the trigger on this/these. :)

Hi Vivian,
 
Your ship looks wonderful.   How will you cover your electrical work over the cabin?  I am looking forward to the rigging and sails.  You are almost done, great job!    

Well, here we are. After too much work and almost no time for ship modeling, I´m back for masting and rigging, at least to begin rigging. Still haven´t fixed the hole over the cabin as my soldering iron is missing and every single time I think to buy a new one, I forget to do it as my head is always in my work - hope I can forget the work justs a little bit on the next 2 or 3 days .
 
I´ve made some daylight model shooting with her today, here are the pictures:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The arrow is to show a little breaking on my windlass as I was rigging the first blocks. As the bars are wood, not the metal cast which the kit supplied, they are a lot more fragile. I´ll fix it after rigging the foremast completely.
 

 

 

 
That´s it for now. I´ll be working on her next 2 days and begin a new project, soon to be brought to you. :D

At last… some “quality time” to spend on the ST.
 
The next stage will be the ships boats.
After going through the instructions and the parts included, I realized that my ambitions for this build are now at a much higher level than the manufacturer "OcCre".
 
So I decided to use some of the parts, but only for creating a template.
The very first thing I “modified” was the keel and the stern.
I cut out 25 pcs of 2mm gaps for the bulk heads.
 

 
And assembled (according to the instructions) the false keel & bulkheads on the provided “stand”.
I filled up the gaps in between the bulkheads with “balsa wood” and sanded the whole thing into shape and covered it with clear tape to prevent any glue sticking to the template.
 

 
As for the bulkheads..
My intentions where to use 2x2mm mahogany strips and "bend" these completly around the template using water/steam.
But I really had problems during this shaping process, they just snapped no matter what and how carefully I tried..
 
I had to give up this idea and ended up in trying out all the different sorts of wood I had available.
I found out that “oak” seems to be the perfect "bending wood", this wood (2x1,3mm) I could bend in almost every shape I needed without snapping.  
 

 
I started out with using clamps (and wood strips) to keep everything in place during the drying process of the bulkheads.
I found it a very frustrating and clumsy experience..
 

 

 
 
First during the planking phase I realized that I could have used “needles” to fix everything in place by pushing them completely into the soft balsawood.
.. lesson learned..
 

 
I’m still busy with planking the ships boat with (1x2,3mm) mahogany strips, and hopefully I can show the end result soon..
 

 

Here is the oar update, I have been working a little slower lately because a little consulting work has gotten in the way of hobby time and the Oseberg is a birthday present for the Admiral and her birthday is not until late December.  I don't want to finish it too early because then I will have to come up with another present.
 
The first step was to cut oak strips 2x12.5 mm.  I cut five strips and taped them together and copied the shape of the kit supplied paddle portion, then cut them into individual pieces.  Originally I intended to cut them out with a scroll saw but since there was so little material to remove I just used a 1 inch belt sander.  I cut the notch where the dowel joins the paddle with the scroll saw and filed it out to the correct size. 
 

 
For the round portion of the oar I cut 3x3 mm square dowel and routed off all four corners and got them close to round and finished them off in a drill motor with hand held sandpaper.  The routing was tricky since the dowel is so small so I rigged a feather board and guide to keep my fingers away from the blade.
 

 
Then I sanded one end flat to fit into the paddle and the other end reduced the circumference to make it into a handle.  The last step was to glue them together and finish the fine sanding.  There were a lot of steps and a LOT of sanding in this process.  30 oars stained and ready to row.
 

 
 

Hi again Bill,
 
I forgot to mention that the bit is a ⅛ shank with a collet, standard Dremel stuff.

Hi Bill,
 
Thanks for dropping by and the kind words.
 
The table is just a Dremel that I have had for many years.  It is attached to a 2x6 and the Dremel tool hangs off the edge of the bench.  The 2x6 is heavy enough to keep it in place while it is in use.  The fence is adjustable and removable.  I use it mostly for routing and sanding.  Vanda-Lay  Industries have a really nice aluminum one as well.
 

 

 

Jesse,
Thanks for stopping by.  The design of the hull itself is very strong, but that 'puddle of epoxy' makes it lethal weapon!  Your Scottish Maid is looking fine!  I like your clothes pin solution for serving the lines, hope you don't mind if I borrow it!     
 
Eamonn
It's always nice to have you stop by.   Ha Ha!  I stocked up on epoxy and I still ran out!  Go figure!  Looking forward to seeing your mast.  I do a little bit of sanding in the house, but making a mast gets a bit messy, to I'm thinking I should start thinking about making my mast in the next few weeks, before it gets cold outside.    
 
Jack! 
Thanks for stopping by!  Shortly after I started building my coquillier, I read an article that inspired me to add the well feature.  So, this really isn't rework, rather, insufficient research before I started the build.  Maybe I should start researching info on my next build - if only I could decide what I want to build next.....
 
Cap'n'Bob  
Thanks for stopping by!  Our Drafters who worked on the large commercial units used electric erasers.  I've been working on the plan for the next few parts and I'm on my 3rd or 4th edition.....  
 
Brian,
I started planking with the tick method, but found it easier and quicker if I knew how wide each plank needed to be at each bulkhead, bow/transom.  With 18 planks on each side, if each plank was just a mere 0.25mm too wide, that totals up to 4.5mm or one plank.  In post #39, you can see the measurements.  The bow started off at 2.36mm, the last couple of planks were 2.10mm.  I remeasured with 8 planks, 4 planks and 2 plans to go.  Here's a photo of plank #17, just needs to be beveled and it's ready to be installed. 

 
Thanks to all who stopped by and all that hit the like button.  Off on another business trip, be back sometime next week. 
 
As always, thanks for stopping by, your comments and suggestions are always appreciated 
 
Dee Dee

I have been using Great Planes sticky back sandpaper that was meant to be used on their aluminum hand sander.  I got it from Tower Hobbies. The roll is 12 feet long and cost about $8.00.  I just cut a piece off and stick it to the pad.  It sticks well and the grit lasts longer than the Micro Mark version which is hugely expensive.  I bought this roll when I started the Oseberg and as you can see the roll seems to last forever.
 
  
 
I have had both of these tools for more than 10 years.  The pen sander just chugs along and with no signs of giving up.  I have had to replace the tips over the years because I just wore them out.  The Wahl sander is cordless and I have replaced the battery and now the switch is going south.  I will replace it when it finally gives up but I will probably buy the corded version.

Here is the oar update, I have been working a little slower lately because a little consulting work has gotten in the way of hobby time and the Oseberg is a birthday present for the Admiral and her birthday is not until late December.  I don't want to finish it too early because then I will have to come up with another present.
 
The first step was to cut oak strips 2x12.5 mm.  I cut five strips and taped them together and copied the shape of the kit supplied paddle portion, then cut them into individual pieces.  Originally I intended to cut them out with a scroll saw but since there was so little material to remove I just used a 1 inch belt sander.  I cut the notch where the dowel joins the paddle with the scroll saw and filed it out to the correct size. 
 

 
For the round portion of the oar I cut 3x3 mm square dowel and routed off all four corners and got them close to round and finished them off in a drill motor with hand held sandpaper.  The routing was tricky since the dowel is so small so I rigged a feather board and guide to keep my fingers away from the blade.
 

 
Then I sanded one end flat to fit into the paddle and the other end reduced the circumference to make it into a handle.  The last step was to glue them together and finish the fine sanding.  There were a lot of steps and a LOT of sanding in this process.  30 oars stained and ready to row.
 

 
 

I have been using Great Planes sticky back sandpaper that was meant to be used on their aluminum hand sander.  I got it from Tower Hobbies. The roll is 12 feet long and cost about $8.00.  I just cut a piece off and stick it to the pad.  It sticks well and the grit lasts longer than the Micro Mark version which is hugely expensive.  I bought this roll when I started the Oseberg and as you can see the roll seems to last forever.
 
  
 
I have had both of these tools for more than 10 years.  The pen sander just chugs along and with no signs of giving up.  I have had to replace the tips over the years because I just wore them out.  The Wahl sander is cordless and I have replaced the battery and now the switch is going south.  I will replace it when it finally gives up but I will probably buy the corded version.

Just incredible Jack!!!
 
Your work on your Oseberg Viking Ship and your attention to the smallest detail has made it truly worthy of your photography skills.
 
I need to find even better adjectives than "incredible" to do it justice ...

Additional pictures with completed sheaves.  Added a coat of MINWAX wipe-on Poly.
 
  Bob R.

Hey JPett,
 
Actually the Admiral thought it was a good idea . Since she also cooks for a living, she's interested in how it turns out and wants to do several test runs at different temperatures.
We will definitely be doing this soon. I will do a detailed post of the process and outline the variable approaches regarding temperatures, duration, wood and outcome. I think we will also use some larger blocks of wood to cut down to show penetration.
Should be fun !
 
Warm Regards,
 
Bill

Hi Mike,
I like what you are doing. The practice frames are a great idea. A plank on frame model is on the horizon for me and I hope to learn with you. I have considered Lumberyard myself and your experience will help me decide.
 
Have you contacted Lumberyard about the substandard material? Maybe they will replace it. I purchased a small amount of sheet stock from them to see what the quality was like and it was very nice clean wood.
 
Good luck and keep up the good work.

Hi All,
 
Well in case you didn't notice I've been AWOL for a while now. August and the first week of September is really busy at work. 80 hours work weeks with no days off blah, blah blah. Boy that was no fun. I used to be able to do it no problem but now it kicks my butt. So it was work, sleep, dream of working on the Winnie and then back to work.  Once that was over  it was another week or so to catch up around the house with all the things that needed my attention.
 
So I've now looked at MSW and found 11 unread pages in the Kit Build Logs and 4 pages in the Scratch Build Logs. Not to mention, oops I just did, all the other topics!
 
So to all my friends out there I'm sorry I missed posting to your logs for the past 6 weeks and it may take another 6 weeks just to catch up.
 
Now that I've got my whining out of the way here is where I'm at.
 
I have not completed marking all of the bulkheads with the plank locations. That was over 1400 little pencil marks. I'm seeing little dashes in my sleep know.
 

 
I've now started on the planking and here you see my first attempt at spiling a plank. You can see the curve compared to a piece of strip wood.
 

 
 
Well I've now started the planking and will let you know how it goes.

Thanks Ben and Sjors. Only two coats of paint and when viewed up close you can see the differences
in the coverage. Several more will be needed.
 
Well this is the start of Chapter 5, planking the hull below the wales.
 
Chuck describes how to plank the hull with no drop planks at the bow and no stealers at the stern.
This is something I have never been able to accomplish. The description is very detailed and I'm
hoping to duplicate it.
 
First a paper tick strip was to be made and divide it into 5/32” increments. To keep as many errors
out of this process as possible I made my tick strip from 5/32" graph paper printed on card stock
instead of using a ruler and  pencil and transferring the marks to card stock.
 
 

 

 
 
Next I positioned the strip along bulkheads “1” and “A” and marked the increments. There are a
total of 24 planks so there will be 4 "belts" of 7 planks each.
 
Chuck wrote;
 
I had some yellow pinstripe tape so I used that to mark off the hull belts. After applying the tape and
tweaking to get a smooth even run I sent these pictures to Chuck.
 

 

 

 
His sharp eye caught some runs that weren't the best and sent this back which I used to adjust
the belts run.
 

 
Now I'm off to do the starboard side.

Hi Dee Dee,
 
Sorry about the rework.  It is satisfying when it's finished.  The wet well is certainly water tight.  I love your work.

Hi Dee Dee,
 
Sorry about the rework.  It is satisfying when it's finished.  The wet well is certainly water tight.  I love your work.

Again, the obvious is I should have done more prep work back on page one:  Drop the cockpit floor height, build up the mast step, the bow stem, framing for the wells and more.   Oh well, but I'm learning and having fun. 
 
It was a puzzle, trying to figure out what to do first, but slowly I figured it out.
 
After removing the balance of the false deck, I removed most of the 6th bulkhead and the keel between the 6th and 7th bulkhead.  Added outer framing on all four sides.  The mast thwart is 12" wide, that's too wide, so I added an extra 6" of framing and built out the foredeck.  Since the hull is single planked and a few spots are a bit thin, I add some epoxy for strength (OK, I added A LOT of epoxy.....)

 

 
Before the side framing was glued, I cut a notch for the thwart.  

 
This first section of planks will be cut in half, at the thwart and permanently glued, still need to drill a hole for the mast.  Three short planks will be cut and fitted.  In post #2, in the 6th photo, you can see these short planks.  

 
Next up, i made 20 floor planks, only needed 14.  I'll use 3 planks when I cut down the center plank and the other 3 will be for 'just in case', as in just in case if I / when I loose one or two.............
Next, need to make the planks that will fit on each side. 

 
These side pieces were an adventure to make!  These will be permanently glued, which isn't quite right, but that's the way it is.........

 
Finally, all of the floor boards in place! It's a real tight fit and they easily pop out, so will need to reduce each very, very slightly.  
 
 
Before I glue in the end pieces or do anything else, I first need to decide if I should do some painting first. 
This took a month to figure out and make all the pieces, but I'm happy with it and again, I learned a lot!
 
 
As always, thanks for stopping by, I appreciate your interest in my build.  
 
Dee Dee

Here is the oar update, I have been working a little slower lately because a little consulting work has gotten in the way of hobby time and the Oseberg is a birthday present for the Admiral and her birthday is not until late December.  I don't want to finish it too early because then I will have to come up with another present.
 
The first step was to cut oak strips 2x12.5 mm.  I cut five strips and taped them together and copied the shape of the kit supplied paddle portion, then cut them into individual pieces.  Originally I intended to cut them out with a scroll saw but since there was so little material to remove I just used a 1 inch belt sander.  I cut the notch where the dowel joins the paddle with the scroll saw and filed it out to the correct size. 
 

 
For the round portion of the oar I cut 3x3 mm square dowel and routed off all four corners and got them close to round and finished them off in a drill motor with hand held sandpaper.  The routing was tricky since the dowel is so small so I rigged a feather board and guide to keep my fingers away from the blade.
 

 
Then I sanded one end flat to fit into the paddle and the other end reduced the circumference to make it into a handle.  The last step was to glue them together and finish the fine sanding.  There were a lot of steps and a LOT of sanding in this process.  30 oars stained and ready to row.
 

 
 

Here is the oar update, I have been working a little slower lately because a little consulting work has gotten in the way of hobby time and the Oseberg is a birthday present for the Admiral and her birthday is not until late December.  I don't want to finish it too early because then I will have to come up with another present.
 
The first step was to cut oak strips 2x12.5 mm.  I cut five strips and taped them together and copied the shape of the kit supplied paddle portion, then cut them into individual pieces.  Originally I intended to cut them out with a scroll saw but since there was so little material to remove I just used a 1 inch belt sander.  I cut the notch where the dowel joins the paddle with the scroll saw and filed it out to the correct size. 
 

 
For the round portion of the oar I cut 3x3 mm square dowel and routed off all four corners and got them close to round and finished them off in a drill motor with hand held sandpaper.  The routing was tricky since the dowel is so small so I rigged a feather board and guide to keep my fingers away from the blade.
 

 
Then I sanded one end flat to fit into the paddle and the other end reduced the circumference to make it into a handle.  The last step was to glue them together and finish the fine sanding.  There were a lot of steps and a LOT of sanding in this process.  30 oars stained and ready to row.
 

 
 

Here is the oar update, I have been working a little slower lately because a little consulting work has gotten in the way of hobby time and the Oseberg is a birthday present for the Admiral and her birthday is not until late December.  I don't want to finish it too early because then I will have to come up with another present.
 
The first step was to cut oak strips 2x12.5 mm.  I cut five strips and taped them together and copied the shape of the kit supplied paddle portion, then cut them into individual pieces.  Originally I intended to cut them out with a scroll saw but since there was so little material to remove I just used a 1 inch belt sander.  I cut the notch where the dowel joins the paddle with the scroll saw and filed it out to the correct size. 
 

 
For the round portion of the oar I cut 3x3 mm square dowel and routed off all four corners and got them close to round and finished them off in a drill motor with hand held sandpaper.  The routing was tricky since the dowel is so small so I rigged a feather board and guide to keep my fingers away from the blade.
 

 
Then I sanded one end flat to fit into the paddle and the other end reduced the circumference to make it into a handle.  The last step was to glue them together and finish the fine sanding.  There were a lot of steps and a LOT of sanding in this process.  30 oars stained and ready to row.