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Maury S
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Maury S got a reaction from yvesvidal in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
So this is all for practice while I wait for some more silkspan... I laid out the scaled-down main sail, marked the panels with a medium brown pencil and folded over about 1/16" all around for the boltrope. I simply laid a steel ruled (no cork backing) along the edge of the sail and ran my finger nail along to crease it, folded over and pressed the steel ruler. Matte medium should secure the rope. It's looking better than I feared for a first try. It's going to be furled so no reef points...
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from mtaylor in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
I have an airbrush but never used it...maybe it's time for some more experimentation! Kurt Van Dam has posted many times on airbrushing. He's probably done this before.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from Tony Hunt in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
Painting the silkspan tore it with the softest brush in our collection. I don't like the color but the tearing is a problem. Next time I'll support the material and maybe use a more dilute paint. Any suggestions? Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from Tony Hunt in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
I can't believe it's been since April when I last posted. A few issues have kept me out of the shipyard and at least I'm in the sail loft for now. This is my first attempt at sails. Silkspan is the material of choice and David Antscherl's Sail Making Supplement is my primary, but not sole source of technique. First came the wooden frame...straight forward. Next is to soak the silkspan in water "for a few minutes", lift it out and let the water run off...at which point the material ripped apart. Next try was to leave the material in water for less than a minute, lift it out and lay it on the frame. It still tore near the corners but full enough to use the gummed paper tape to hold it to dry. I came out tight as a drum as David indicated. You can see the tears and som wrinkles near the corners but plenty of material for a first try. The dark blotch in the lower right is an image behind the material as it is very translucent. Next is painting...
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from Colin B in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
So this is all for practice while I wait for some more silkspan... I laid out the scaled-down main sail, marked the panels with a medium brown pencil and folded over about 1/16" all around for the boltrope. I simply laid a steel ruled (no cork backing) along the edge of the sail and ran my finger nail along to crease it, folded over and pressed the steel ruler. Matte medium should secure the rope. It's looking better than I feared for a first try. It's going to be furled so no reef points...
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from KeithAug in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
So this is all for practice while I wait for some more silkspan... I laid out the scaled-down main sail, marked the panels with a medium brown pencil and folded over about 1/16" all around for the boltrope. I simply laid a steel ruled (no cork backing) along the edge of the sail and ran my finger nail along to crease it, folded over and pressed the steel ruler. Matte medium should secure the rope. It's looking better than I feared for a first try. It's going to be furled so no reef points...
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from James G in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
I have an airbrush but never used it...maybe it's time for some more experimentation! Kurt Van Dam has posted many times on airbrushing. He's probably done this before.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from CiscoH in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
The only opening that has grating is the wet well. Everything was done on the Byrnes table saw. Started out with a 1/16" piece about 1.75" sq. The blade thickness is .057" with is about 2 3/4" at scale. I cut a shim 2x the blade width. First cross-cut dado is near the edge and about 1/32" deep. I left it sitting on the blade and moved the fence out the thickness of the shim and tightened down the fence. Second cross-cut made and the re-set of the fence repeated about 12 times. I then ripped the dadoed piece into strips the width of the blade.
Battens were cut the width of the dados and sanded to about .04" thick which leaves them about .02" proud. To set the spacing I put 7 dadoed strips onto two inverted strips that held them at the correct spacing. Then the battens were glued in the slots and clamped while the glue set.
The battens will be sanded flush with the tops of the dadoed pieces and the edges finished. The explanation is a bit simpler than the execution. I chose a saw blade after a bunch of calculations of spacing and working with little pieces while holding everything square can be challenging.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from CiscoH in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
The use of MDF was a mistake. The fibers do not glue well. They got knocked off easily. Replaced with wood.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from CiscoH in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
Back to the shipyard after some traveling...the carlings are in, the mast partners are drilled (a bit over-sized) centered and glued and I've started on the knees on the port side. The knees are one-piece. The mated pairs are just scored with a sharp pencil. They may not be visible, but maybe... No issues to describe along the way.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from mtaylor in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
I can't believe it's been since April when I last posted. A few issues have kept me out of the shipyard and at least I'm in the sail loft for now. This is my first attempt at sails. Silkspan is the material of choice and David Antscherl's Sail Making Supplement is my primary, but not sole source of technique. First came the wooden frame...straight forward. Next is to soak the silkspan in water "for a few minutes", lift it out and let the water run off...at which point the material ripped apart. Next try was to leave the material in water for less than a minute, lift it out and lay it on the frame. It still tore near the corners but full enough to use the gummed paper tape to hold it to dry. I came out tight as a drum as David indicated. You can see the tears and som wrinkles near the corners but plenty of material for a first try. The dark blotch in the lower right is an image behind the material as it is very translucent. Next is painting...
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from CiscoH in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
The main deck beams are all installed. Next are the carlings and the minor beams.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from CiscoH in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
With the well constructed, I've moved on to installing the main deck beams.
Same procedure with shaping the ends of the beam to account for keeping the face plumb and the beam resting fully on the clamp.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from CiscoH in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
In order to finish the interior (wet well), some deck beams need to be installed as they support the corner frames of the well. The first of these beams is being installed.
Sorry for the cluttered background. The location of the beam is determined by the plan on the building board. The gantry is set to align with the forward edge of the beam. A heavy (flat, even, smooth) board is clamped at the cross brace on the top of the gantry. The beam was pre-cut and sanded to the correct upper shape and roughly to the bottom shape. After fitting the beam (side to side), the lower edges are trimmed to the proper depth (5" / .104" @ scale) and beveled so the beam faces remain plumb. Clamping the beam to the board as shown in the photo keeps the beam in position while the glue to the clamp dries.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from yvesvidal in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
I can't believe it's been since April when I last posted. A few issues have kept me out of the shipyard and at least I'm in the sail loft for now. This is my first attempt at sails. Silkspan is the material of choice and David Antscherl's Sail Making Supplement is my primary, but not sole source of technique. First came the wooden frame...straight forward. Next is to soak the silkspan in water "for a few minutes", lift it out and let the water run off...at which point the material ripped apart. Next try was to leave the material in water for less than a minute, lift it out and lay it on the frame. It still tore near the corners but full enough to use the gummed paper tape to hold it to dry. I came out tight as a drum as David indicated. You can see the tears and som wrinkles near the corners but plenty of material for a first try. The dark blotch in the lower right is an image behind the material as it is very translucent. Next is painting...
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from gjdale in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
I can't believe it's been since April when I last posted. A few issues have kept me out of the shipyard and at least I'm in the sail loft for now. This is my first attempt at sails. Silkspan is the material of choice and David Antscherl's Sail Making Supplement is my primary, but not sole source of technique. First came the wooden frame...straight forward. Next is to soak the silkspan in water "for a few minutes", lift it out and let the water run off...at which point the material ripped apart. Next try was to leave the material in water for less than a minute, lift it out and lay it on the frame. It still tore near the corners but full enough to use the gummed paper tape to hold it to dry. I came out tight as a drum as David indicated. You can see the tears and som wrinkles near the corners but plenty of material for a first try. The dark blotch in the lower right is an image behind the material as it is very translucent. Next is painting...
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from Saburo in Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build
Chuck, You've become a master at designing and executing. I think we're all amazed and thrilled at what you are doing!
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from hollowneck in Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build
Chuck, You've become a master at designing and executing. I think we're all amazed and thrilled at what you are doing!
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from dvm27 in Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build
Chuck, You've become a master at designing and executing. I think we're all amazed and thrilled at what you are doing!
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from mtaylor in Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build
Chuck, You've become a master at designing and executing. I think we're all amazed and thrilled at what you are doing!
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from mtaylor in Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build
Very nicely done, indeed.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from VTHokiEE in Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
Here are some of the early pics. Just getting used to the new system...Boy I miss the lost files!
Maury
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