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Maury S
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Maury S got a reaction from fredwhite in Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
Thanks for the comments. Proxxon does not offer a self-centering 4-jaw chuck as far as I can see. I do masts the old fashioned way, going from 8 sided to 16 sided to round. It's the small newel posts on the rail at the quarter-deck I'm doing now. Six-inch square stock turned in the center. Five matching ones needed. Final length (full sized) about 1.5". I'll play with some of the suggestions. I need the experience anyway.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from fredwhite in Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
Thinking ahead to the time I remove the interim spacers..particularly the ones under the gunport sill...will there be a problem using isopropyl alcohol to get them out (loosening the sills)?
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from Elia in Mast Hoops
Chapelle, in The American Fishing Schooners 1825 - 1935 devotes a full page to the sizes of mast hoops. I recall some recent discussion, but can't find it in a search. I've been saving planed shavings from the edge of 1/16" Swiss Pear for this purpose. I waxed a piece of dowel that is about 25% larger than the maximum diameter of the main and foremasts. I then carefully loaded a coil onto the dowel, dampened the shaving and built up about 3 - 4 layers using dilute white glue to hold the shaving in place on itself. Pretty good result.
A light sanding on the edges will bring them to the specified width. 28 more to go.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from JacquesCousteau in Centerboard Schooner C. Chase 1846 by Maury S - FINISHED - Scale 1:48
C. Chase is finished. Head-on
Fore Deck
Midships
Midships
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from WestPort in Using a serving Machine. ( Syren Serv o matic)
see post#244 for use of Serv-o-Matic: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/28039-emma-c-berry-by-maury-s-148-scale-pof-rigged-as-schooner/page/9/#comment-974182
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Maury S got a reaction from DARIVS ARCHITECTVS in Topping lift (Main and fore booms on schooner)
Thanks all. Allan, in this case, gun tackle/ topping lift tackle = a couple of blocks attached at the lower end of the topping lift to get some mechanical advantage in lifting the end of the boom. See pic. of Emma C. Berry plan attached.
btw, scale here is 1:32.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from CiscoH in Anchor Hoy c. 1825 by Maury S - FINISHED - 1:48 - Harbor craft - POF
Gudgeons + pintles. I cut and shaped some brass strips. The gudgeon has a small piece of brass tubing and the pintle has a brass rod in the centers for the rudder hinges. I filed a "flat" on both the tubing and rod pieces, dabbed a bit of silver solder on each and held them in place with pins on the magnesia soldering block. Silver soldering gives me plenty of strength for the joint.
They do not look complete, so I used some low temperature (438 degrees) silver solder (Home Depot, $6) to fill in and make it look more like a casting.
First attempt with the butane torch unbonded the tube so I went to my hot air machine, set it to 440 degrees and it worked well. A little filing and they look better. Blackening next. Getting them to line up on the rudder and hull will be a challenge (big fingers, small parts).
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from Nirvana in Modifying Harbor Freight Workbench for Full Drawer Access
I bought the same bench and left the lower drawers and the shelf off the assembly so my knees can fit under when I work.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from Archi in Thickness sanders.....Byrnes vs Micro Mart
Buy the best tool you can afford, or wait 'til you can afford it. There are very few tools I've acquired that I've regretted, and they are all the cheaper alternatives at the time. There is no comparison to the Byrnes sander.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from thibaultron in Wood Storage Idea
I think you will find the tall strips will take on a bend if stored vertically. (been there, done that.) The wood should be stored flat (use tubes or boxes if you like to keep pieces sorted by size.)
Maury
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Maury S reacted to archjofo in La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
@druxey
Many thanks for the lovely comment and the reply.
I would also like to thank everyone for the many LIKES.
Continuation: Equipment of the main topsail yard - Jackstag, blocks for leech lines and bunt lines / Filière d`envergure, poulies de cargue de fond et poulies de boulin
The topsail yards on the La Créole were also already equipped with jackstays. The two-piece and fully served jackstay for the main topsail yard was made in the same way as shown in the main yard and fore yard. The following picture shows part of the jackstay with the lanyard.
On the next picture I show the blocks for the topsail yards again in size comparison (tye block of the main topsail yard, tye block of the fore topsail yard a bit smaller). Contrary to my sketch shown, the blocks for the braces are 4 mm long.
In the meantime I have installed and lashed the jackstay on the main topsail yard and also lashed the blocks for the leech lines to it.
So the lifts, the blocks for the braces and the footropes are still missing. I will also pull in the sheets and the clew lines as far as that.
Sequel follows …
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Maury S got a reaction from MAGIC's Craig in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
Work on the booms and gaffs.
I file the booms flat where the cleats go. There is a hole .02" thru the center and hardened copper wire to reinforce.
Metal work for the booms includes a bridle for the sheets. They are formed from brass strip and drilled out using the sensitive drilling attachment on the mill.
After soldering...
Soldered, pickled, and blackened. Bottom of main boom on top, top of fore boom on the bottom.
All the booms and gaffs will be painted white.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from MAGIC's Craig in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
A slight diversion...the bowsprit. There is a tenon at the heel to fit into a mortise in the bit.
The plan shows the bottom of the stick is flat and straight. All the taper comes from the top and sides. In addition, it goes from square at the heel, to eight-sided, back to square as it passes through the bulwarks, back to eight-sided, then sixteen-sided and finally to round. In addition, the top of the stick has a "walking flat".
Using 7-10-7 layout, the square pole is being shaped in a jig using a 5/8" chisel.
After cutting and sanding it's almost done. The eight-sided section near the heel needs to be cut and I've left the ends square so I can line up holes that need to be drilled. Photo is too low quality to see the details.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from MAGIC's Craig in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
Now that the covering boards are done, she gets taken off the building board to start work on the planking. First step is to define the three belts on each side. The Lankford plans have a planking layout so it made the process easier. I marked the bands at the stem, the transom and at the dead-flat frame (#13). I then laid a black thread connecting the three points and fiddled with them at each frame until they looked fair from all directions. Diluted glue on the thread at the frames makes "rolling" the thread into place easier. Hat Tip David Antscherl.
I'll have to look at it a few more times to make sure the lines are fair.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from MAGIC's Craig in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
The outside of the frames have been roughly faired. This involved a couple of shims at a few frames. I think Greg Herbert's [DVM27] comment about not beveling frames before installation is right-on. The additional sanding (fairing) is less work and cleaner than shimming.
Next is to extend the wet well bed logs down to the outer edge of the frames. Then start on the deck beams at the top of the wet well.
Planking will be put off 'til the deck work and covering boards are in place as they define the shear.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from MAGIC's Craig in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
Fairing continues: I had to remove a couple of the frame pairs and re-install so the bottoms lined up with the rabbet. Lots of sanding with 80 grit to bring everything fair.
With the re-set of the errant frames, I have to re-fair the sheer. The last frame tops are way too high.
Next will be a couple of temporary battens to attach the transom and then remove the spacers and cross-braces.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from tkay11 in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
installed
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from gjdale in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
installed
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from Matt D in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
installed
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from yvesvidal in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
installed
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from druxey in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
Back in the shipyard for a while. Working on lettering and scroll work for the trail boards. The name boards and trail boards are cut from .015" laser board. They are painted gold so the color shows through the decal. The surrounding areas will be painted flat black. The two names on the right are still on the decal backing and have not yet been attached.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from gjdale in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
Back in the shipyard for a while. Working on lettering and scroll work for the trail boards. The name boards and trail boards are cut from .015" laser board. They are painted gold so the color shows through the decal. The surrounding areas will be painted flat black. The two names on the right are still on the decal backing and have not yet been attached.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from AON in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
Back in the shipyard for a while. Working on lettering and scroll work for the trail boards. The name boards and trail boards are cut from .015" laser board. They are painted gold so the color shows through the decal. The surrounding areas will be painted flat black. The two names on the right are still on the decal backing and have not yet been attached.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from mtaylor in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
Re. material... the bolts react to a magnet. They contain some iron, obviously. Could be some version of stainless. I had hoped BlueJacket's nickel blackener might work, but NO. Any other ideas are appreciated.
Maury
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Maury S got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Emma C Berry by Maury S - 1:48 scale - POF - rigged as schooner
It's time to take her off the building board. The support system is a pair of cradles similar to the cradles for my Centerboard Schooner Post 302 March 21, 2021.
I start by tracing the #4 and #17 frames from the plan sheet and transferring that pattern to card stock for rough fitting. The lower part of the frame is close to the shape of the hull at the points where the embedded nuts are located. After that, I copy the shape to some 1/32" box for final shaping. Since the ECB is built on a sloped jig, I measured the distance from the top of the jig and the building board at the two mounting points and transferred that measurement from the keel slot to the bottom of the rough cradle.
The scroll work will be done later.
Maury
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