Jond
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61 update on the larger half brig HG Berry Since getting the new light I am so much happier looking inside the hull. The frame are done. The transom is not. I will get there. First I want to stabilize the hull with all the other internal work. First up are changes to the jig that was needed to help me progress. 1. As I was completing the frames, I needed to move around some of the jig columns. They are screwed top and bottom so moving them was not hard. I also need to figure out a jig to facilitate building the transom. As I have no drawings I am studying the Crothers details to figure out what to try. 2. Here I needed to remove the end of the jig and add a cross brace for now 3. Here at the bow the same story. I need access to build out the bow. 4. In this photo, the last with bad lighting, we see the clamps are in and the ceiling started Now let there be light 5. Here I am checking the deck clamps for level 6. Here is a shot of the blank I an making for mast step knees. I made two to get ten knees. I am using poplar 7. In this progress photo we see the long process of building out ceiling and other internal work. I just can’t say enough about the benefit of finally having for less than $100 great light. now for some more history
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60. update on the rigging of the small half Brig Albert It is time for masts to go on and be set. I believe the best approach will be to do most of the foremast work before setting the main mast. Having the half brig and half schooner rig makes that a bit easier. 1. here we are setting the dead eyes for the fore mast shrouds. I am not sure how much the fore course sail being in place will affect me with ratlines. 2. The shrouds and ratlines went OK. Now to look at what we have on deck. The fore cabin, “Caboose” as I learned, has been resized and I think it works. please note in this photo all is a bit dark 3. Here I have hung most of the lines on the fore topsail, so as I attach it, much of the delicate work can be done. We’ll see how it goes. I have the main mast and cabins here for the photo but will remove them until I complete the foremast work. ditto on notice the darkness in the photo A few days later we have the fore topsail all in place. I got tired of not having good light on the center project table and bought a new 4-foot LED strip that affords one to change both intensity and color. I love it…I can see inside the hull!!!! 4. Here we are looking in normal indoor lighting. 3500 K . Some people like this more traditional look, however. 5. Here is the same view with the switch to daylight. 5000K. I love it. The blue is just a big cut up cardboard box with blue latex. A few details 6. I am following the Crothers guide as to what line goes to what pin. I try to mix up the thread colors a bit as well. It is going to be tough to get all those little coils in place…we’ll see 7. Here if one looks closely all those lines are in place, leech line, clew line, reef tackle, sheet, lift etc. Note there are lines on the first 7 pins on the P & S sides and 4 at the mast rails.I am not very good at judging the size of the thread to use. I do not like however over heavy lines. I beefed up the lifts, topsail yard halyard and sheets. The rest are all thin. 8. Here all the topsail lines are on and fed down to pins. I used black line for the sheet chains die to the small scale. I kept chain for the top gallant halyard. 9. The bunt lines are there, but the thin thread does not show up well. I will use darker thread on the top gallant I remember this process is a learning effort for me, so if each build gets better I am happy. next up a little history on the yards and start of the insides of the larger half brig
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59. complete setting the frames at the stern of the larger brig I believe the real celebration is the whiskey plank. I cheated and had an extra dram to celebrate the last frame. Still lots to do but here we go. 1 moving aft I had to remake a few frames and get them meaty enough for the bevels. Here I lined them up to start a little preassembly sanding 2 here came another. This was also the step to verify where the full frames would stop, the space above the keel be filled and the frame was going to become the first half frame. 3 in this view I have done all the full frames. I also started the inside fairing up forward. 5 now it’s time to set up the stern post. I had to make a new one. 6 in this view the keelson and its rider are connected into the sternpost. There is also a new filler to receive the last three half frames 7 the first half frame is installed 8 here all there half frames are installed pinned and glued. Notice how big they are at this point. lots to sand 9 Ta da. All frames in place…yippee 10 it looks like a good bit of sanding once we get the insides set up and can get rid of the jig base. All for now
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58 time to figure out the deck framing for the large half brig H G Berry The plans I was able to obtain for a similar sized brig did not include much detail. I am basically using the Crother’s book and former experience of the Maine built schooners of similar size. This hull in not that much bigger than a schooner of similar length. That gives me a sense of size of frame deck beams etc. I thought that I need to reference something more specific before cutting up the remainder of my precious supply of Costello wood. 1 this cross section comes from the Crother’s book. It is a cross section of a merchant Brig that I will follow. 2 here I have taken the center frame layer and annotated it. I can then measure and get a sense of the right sizes for the knees, clamps, posts , bilge keelson members etc. The book includes a table with the beam sizes offered and they make sense to me. Since they are doing more than simply holding up the deck they are listed as 12-inch deck beam spanning just under 9 feet. I will do every other one with a smaller one without knees alternating. The knees on the center post and beam end reduce the effective span from almost ten to perhaps 7 .5 - 8 feet on average . This actual span suggests 12-inch beam to be quite heavy. 3. From this drawing source and a comment in the text of a different chapter that a 40-foot merchant vessel would have a 6-8 inch camber I have decided that 4 inches would be best. In the red curve we see how little that camber is. 4. here I am using a the “camber”curve and sanding the tops and both cutting and sanding the bottoms of the beams. I then passed the beams upside down through the thickness sn=ander to try to get them as close to right as I could. 5. here I have cut out a lot of potential knees. I did this in a piece of 3/4"poplar, so it's not too bad if I need to throw them away and start again. I also thought a different wood might be better anyway. I understand the deck horizontal knees were often pine. These Boothbay Shipyards rough cut most of their timber on the other side of the same Damariscotta river and milled the lumber at the local Mill. This oak at this time was still plentiful and pine and fit supply overwhelming. 6. before we begin the next step, I wanted to celebrate that the crew just showed up. They are diecast toy road workers whose roll will be adjusted to shipwrights. for a welcome aboard, let them dig
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Wefalck thanks for your comment. I totally agree. Much of the difference between a 75 foot and 110 foot long brig is in the bow area. I show the anchor line as part of the explanation of how tight things could be. As I am tying off the multiple lines for the square sails above, just image; working the jib sails and taking in a square sail at the same time. They would have been on top of each other. regards
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57 layout of the forward deck and set the mast on the small half brig Albert I thought it important to get the ‘furniture’ and big items done on the fore deck so I might set the fore mast. I have gone as far as I dare with the main course sail without being able to tie off each line as it is added. I also need one final look to resize the fore cabin. 1. Here we see the anchor gear with the port side anchor stored aboard. I thought there just is not enough room to lay it down as on a ship. 2. Here we see the other side and tightness of the area. Using Crowther’s pin lay out, I saw the need for all the pins on the extended foremast fife rail. More on that later. 3. Here I added the 12-foot-wide cabin. As it needs to crowd the back side of the fife rail, we also see the narrow access around its sides. It just does not work for me. 4. Here from the other side ditto 5. After setting the foremast, I removed the cabin and redid a small floor plan reduced to 10 feet wide. We get 6 bunks and tight common table. Much like a sailing yacht of today. the galley stove needs to be centered so the boats can ride either side on the roof. 6. I made up a cabin block that will be clad and have placed a quickly whittled boat to simulate the massing. I plan for two boats to ride on the cabin. 7 here is the completed log pump. I shoe it because the little side spout is the only soldered brass tube on this build.....I think Now that I have set the fore mast in place, I need to plan how best to sequence the rigging. If I add all those leech lines, clew lines and bunt lines every pin will get used. I think it better to start with the inside most lines and work my way out. That would make the lower mast shrouds come after some of the running rigging. We’ll see how it goes. I also worry of the push and pull to the sails, so they don’t end up all wrinkled. That is why I feel it better to add the upper sails in place. All for now
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56 update on the bow section progress of the larger half brig H G Berry I am learning quite a bit here as I push through. First up I realized that the loose fit of dry fit would only get me a little way in the progress. I soon knew that I needed to commit and get the bow section fixed, so I could then build the cant frames to tie in the two sides of the gap I then realized that I needed to break up the keelson and rider into manageable pieces and install them along the way. I also found that another round of making the cant frames was in order. I went to the next scored joint on the keel and cut it through. I then found I needed to hurry up and to get about 4 more frames in place, so I could get that first two keelson sections done and the first rider in place. That first rider ties the stem together and is important. let’s see how it went 1. In this view I have cut down the keelson into its first section and tied together the forward stem assembly and the keel and it is glued 2. In this view the second keelson section is being glued 3. Here the first rider piece is going in 4. Here we see the first rider section is in and glued 5. Here was the square set up to make the stem plumb 6. Here is my next attempt at making the two cant frames 7. Here looking down I have lightly glued the first cant frame to hold it as I fix the second 8. Looking from the inside I remain mostly concerned regarding the inside sanding access once I tie it all together. 9. Here from the inside we see all forward frames in place. I have started gluing in straps to better support the frames above the jig for inside sanding. I hope it works. 10. Here is the new bow on view. I am comfortable that I be able to turn the hull over and sand these outside. Hopefully this does work out. I am thinking it makes sense to slow down and start to lay out the deck and rail lines. I have started adding temporary “ clamps’ above them to strengthen the whole thing to allow sanding before I try to install any of the real structure. All for now
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Welfalck Thank you for your thoughtful feedback. I appreciate hearing from someone data that ties nicely with the small strings of info I have been able to gather regarding these merchant vessels. I have read tons about schooners and find much less about brigs. to you points..... • I have read that for a square sail mast 4 to six crew were typical depending on size…at 75 +/_ feet I go with max of 4 • For the larger merchant schooners it is stated in many sources to be 2 per mast, then the captain cook and mates. That 2 gets us to six • Then a cook, a captain [ often a part owner], a mate, and likely one more that could be a second mate relative etc. • If all those are aboard that would be ten. That just seems like a lot of people to me on a 75 foot vessel. I had 3 in the aft cabin and 7 forward " Caboose" • Bow ports were very common on the large schooners here in Maine. Mainers sold lots of wood. In later years it was often deck storage, but for long pine or spruce poles either from here going south or from the Carolinas going either north or further south, bow ports made sense. I have not seen them on any of the models in local museums other than on schooners. • The skylight in the photo was a 15-minute built placeholder, more for massing. It is roughly 3 by 4 feet and covers the common area. I suspect the closed in captain, mate, and head area would block most daylight, and a small openable skylight would have been likely. • The aft cabin is shown in the 112 foot Torrent painting I have, and in other models I have seen, to have a lower sole [ mid level deck 3 feet down]. One advantage is to give the captain access to the area under the after deck to store food , a wee dram and the like. Also, I learned several of the Brigs had the aft cabins go side to side, so its roof was sort of a poop deck. It would not go all the way aft and the helm and sailing area would be at the main deck level. The cabin in the photo was too tall and will be cut down. • I agree with your assessment that the best layout would leave 4 to 5 feet clear on either side of the cabin. That would on this just under 19-foot-wide vessel make the cabin only 10 feet across. If I keep what I have it is 12 feet and less than 4 foot clear either side…... As I plan to focus on a few more items, I will also make up another cabin that is smaller. Also flatten the roof, add waterboard and rails for storing boats etc. I am going to partially rationalize that for a 75-foot sailing vessel a full crew of 10 is too much and reduce that to 8 and move on. That approach should allow a better “ Caboose” Thanks again for all you feedback
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Wefalck Thanks for the observation. One of the main reason for posting in these logs is to hear feedback. I must say with a smile that on this side of the pond , we are proud of Daniel Boone and the log cabin. I understand however they were invented in Sweden. I have been struggling all along with the size of the cabins. The " on Deck" fore cabin once decided on and reworked or perhaps totally rebuilt with water boards , maybe a flat roof of smaller planks etc, and two boats on top will hopefully fit in. The problem remains the size and trying to understand what would have been built not having any drawings of the small size vessel. There is not much information I can find regarding these early small commercial brigs [ half Brigs too] . What I have found says they had crews double the size of a schooner crew. other articles suggest 12..I think that is too big at 76 feet. There is no focs'le crew quarter like in either a whaler or a fishing schooner. That means a cabin big enough for 7 or maybe 8 to live in for a four plus month journey. It's also the only enclosed area for equipment repair, the galley etc. One choice is to ignore all that and simply scale down the cabin dimensions that are available for the 112 foot Brig to where is looks nice but then realize it is too small to house the crew. perhaps they were all "hot" bunked anyway. the forst problem is those cabins include the foremast. to move this cabin forward past the mast just won't work. it is too tight. I stated previously I prefer not to build something that doesn't work. I see no comparisons that put some of the crew below deck either. These vessels historically sailed to the Caribbean and back. Anyone with input to this quandary is most welcome. In the meantime my cabins are and will remain loose and likely the last thing to be added. I think the rear cabin size is pretty well figured out so now to consider....do I keep a rounded roof. it is about a foot in scale too tall and the sky light is temporary. As there is less to worry about I will clean it up and probably set it. I may go ahead a make a nice small fore cabin and set it in for a look see. we need two boats on its roof to hold the full crew..say 18 feet long. The big cabin now just does that. I appreciate all comments so thanks again jon
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55 update on the build out of the deck….small brig I am working my way from stem plus bow sprit to stern figuring out to build and place so I can get the deck work done and be ready to set the masts. Some os straight forward and some is guessing…let’s look Here I am adding reef points to fore cousesail. I have since played a bit to add other lines. Here I have added a chain drive under the helm. Thus, I believe I need two lazarette to gain access to them. the mock ups are to move around and decide where to put two hatches and what size. I am not sure if they would have used the area aft of the cabin for other storage of say spare lines and the like…thus a bit of guess work. Perhaps they had access from inside the cabin....that is my assumption after seeing that on both Bowdoin and Ernestian similar sized schooners. There clearly is not room for an aft hatch. I also added docking hawse pipe that was not on the whaler and an aft bitts. The main sheet will be made there. • Here I have built the main fife rail and pump. I plan to leave them natural as I like the look of the Costello. I believe they would have had a simple log pump in these early vessels. There was a maker of such in the same harbor. I used brass tube for the pump. • Here I have made up a binnacle • Here with the cabin set the lack of room on a 76 foot brig / half Brig, is quite evident. It is easy to understand the act of building the aft cabin fully across the deck. I already stated earlier in the log that we know that was done on the larger Brig. • General view of the aft half Next up I have started the bowsprit rigging and the forward deck anchors etc.
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
she is launched! a big step forward now to complete here rigging and learn of her sea trials
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
the day of the launch all started off well. we were among some thirty boats maneuvering in wind and incoming tide. 10:30. there is a land side crowd gathering and several ceremonies on deck finally about 1130 she started to move high tide about 12:30 some thirty minutes later the team must have thought "what's the rush"... perhaps better to be above to see whats happening under the water, and they stopped here we are 24 hours later. they apparently decided to go down at low tide as far as they could while inspecting everything on the way. This revision makes a lot of sense, it's just less flashy. we can see the rail and car ready for the incoming tide. here is a closer view of the roller system that rests on the steel capped timber rails. the heavy chain to pull in and the lighted chain to pull out. Hopefully by this time tomorrow she will floated
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
finally the day before the launch. all looks ready
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
these ondeck photos were taken in May I love the prisms that made there way onto the decking. The windless totally rebuilt.
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
now to the masts the new larger lower masts are new. the old lower masts were cut to make the new top masts
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
on two different days in may seeing what is going on on the railway everything has been cleaned out and turned up for the big day. the dory was a donation from a local family that sailed on her to the arctic the ballast is laid out waiting for the the installation diagrams the new prop is installed my little sail boat got launched on the adjacent railway...such fun
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
news flash. Ernestina Morrissey the real deal is ready to launch tomorrow in Boothbay Harbor a month ago i took a tour below decks to see the completed photos here is a tour
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Cutting the bow stem assembly and trial fitting two cant frames. 53 Well maybe cutting the bow frame assembly back for a frame worked. I over cut it a bit with the band saw and made a little slice into the keel. I tried to fix with clear glue and sawdust. • Here we are on the bandsaw ready to cut…. • Here the bow assembly is cut, and we see it from the side • Looking at the inside of the cut piece, there is still much sanding to do, and I am concerned as to access once in place for the inside. Therefore, I think it is dry fit sand, then dry fit sand etc. • Here I have dry fit two potential cant frames and frame 1. I also went ahead and glued in frame 1.5 as it rests on the keel, and I am now confident that it will work. • Here for the side all is loose, but it seems will work out. • Here is a view of the bow assembly sitting on the frame 1 outline. There is room, I hope, for two frames between to fill the gap. The cant of them is “slight” just to divide the gap into three spaces. I will over cut them a bit as I need to turn them forward just a bit • Here the first one is made up and the second ready to go. I am not sure how I can hold them in dry fits …. that is for next week
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General update and progress on the small Brig……yes I should say half brig ….to be named Albert If one cares why I number photos in my log, it is because they come from different sources, and I want to be able to file them away in chronological order close to the blog. Then if I want to dive into the folder, they are easier to follow. It does take time and I am trying to find an easier way. Now I am on an apple, they make it harder to rename each one. I am now numbering each batch [ per post]. So just ignore my numbers. 54 updating the small brig sails I have tried to work on parallel paths on this build. As I am working the deck on the hull, I am doing the masts and sails, so that when the deck is ready, much of the rigging and sails are ready. I am not convinced this is easier than doing the work on the model, but it is faster and a little safter. I can move things around and not drop stuff on the model deck as I do repetitive things like tie, glue and cut ratlines. The following sequence includes some of the work I have done this month. • Here I have trimmed out the yards. This view shows my attempt to add wet white glue and weights to shape and hold the foot ropes. • Here I have traced sails from the Cate Cory plan. I have left over painted silk span from the last build that was a bit messy. I like that feel of older rougher canvas for a sail that is on a working half brig. • I built a light box and traced the lines onto the silk span • Here we are with the first one cut out and strips ready for assembly. I am using thin annealed steel wire around and thread on the head of the sail • Here is a step I learned the hard way. Model sails tend to grow. Therefore, it is a good idea to take the model spar and as I did here cut the sails down just enough • Here again I am tracing out the lines. In this view one can see I tried hard to make the back-to-back lines just a hair apart from each other so if one can see through the sail it looks like a double seem. I did it but I cannot see through. • Here I have set the first sail on the trimmed fore mast. I am working on a spare hull and therefore dropsies don’t matter. I am debating if, or if how many lines I add before transferring to the model. I think the lifts and sheets for the yards and sails make sense to do here • I moved the trimmed masts over to the main hull for some progress pictures. The masts have their shrouds and ratlines. Next up is all those little blocks. • Here the deck work is getting about halfway. I need to figure out fife rails, and the rigging plan next, make a pump, complete the helm, add bitts etc. I did cut down the cabins some since i last shared them. All for now
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Now back to the bow Here in my hand is the assembled ‘draft’ stem plus knight head plus four hawse pieces. What to do next? • Here I sanded back and tested a few times and the pencil mark shows where I believe I need to cut it back and replace it with a forward cant frame • Here miraculously the other side is almost the same • Here looking down on a loose dry fit, it seems that the square frame 1 will end up going in as planned. I am thinking two cant frames will make it all work • In this view I see in the photo that the two loose frames, 1.5 and 1, have slid back a bit. With them plumbed, there should be just room to make the two cant frames. Now how to make them….the adventure continues how can I cut that and make it presentable. Will this attempt be just a draft? We’ll see
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To complete the above sequence, I record a few more views of the frame assembly To complete assembling the frames I have made a new change. I used to use copper wire glue through a hole, filed smooth and then darkened with Liver of Sulphur. I saw a trick somewhere of using black monofilament. After finding no black in any local fishing or hardware store, I made some exchanges with an internet site to learn what the 10 lb vs 30 lb test line diameter might be. I landed on 30 LB was the same as gauge 24 wire, then alas …”out of stock”. So, I settled om 25 lb test and it works ok. Before this next step I used a little water on the paper cutting guide and the edge of a chisel to scrape away the white glue. I then used a Dremel and some hand sanding to improve the shape of the frame prior to drilling those roughly forty holes for simulated bolts. • Here I am using a general glue as I fear the AC will eat the plastic • Here after experimenting I found a new scalpel blade works best to cut off and scrape any glue residue. After this step I will fine sand the frame before installing In conclusion I want to admit what I am not doing ,that I am amazed to see the real pros do. The real frames on larger ships according to Crowther’s were stepped. I.e. the first “floor “of a 12 inch frame might be 14 “ wide and deep and the first futtocks 12 inches. Then the subsequent futtocks or top timber stepped down in both directions as they reached to top. Also, there was more science to the location of the joints. In my previous build of a 100-foot schooner, I knew as I was copying the real vessel, Ernestina Morrissey, that the frames were all consistent, so stepping was not necessary. In this model I cannot tell anyone what was real in 1840. However…this is a 112 foot vessel. Not that much different than a schooner, EM was of the same size. This is not a 200-foot ship. So perhaps my short cut of making all the frames 12 inch all the way up may be accepted. next up more on the bow
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Allan thank you so much for your kind words. Yes each build to me is much more than the model. The build is an adventure. My talk on the history of the Boothbay Shipyards, first 100 years is on the 25th . I will share a few more points from it in the log here afterward as they relate to the build of these brigs. I will call that brief bit ....brigs of Boothbay. this afternoon we are having a tour on a historic vessel around the harbor and I will share that too. I will send you the link.
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I thought that for encouragement of other learners like me, I would put together the sequence of a frame. This is no museum piece, but it is fun to try to make bones, and I encourage others to try. This build is my second attempt. The following photo group is the first half of a frame sequence. Two prints of the TurboCad layer “frame 18” with pencil marks for joints to be set under plexiglass sheet Cut out 3/32” by ¾” or 5/8” strips of Costello with butt ends glued Two half frames glued together One copy of print cut out and white glued for cutting …lining up with other Rough cut Outside shape Inside shape Sometimes I lose the ID label or keel marks. I keep the second print out and find several times it’s convenient to check back in, so I keep them. _____________________________________ The bow section is tough already, but with absolutely no predrawn cant frames it is fun. I have no idea if this method will work, but here I go again The following view shows a progressive idea. First is the book by Crowthers showing us how the bow was to have been framed. The key for me is two knight heads and four hawse pieces 12” on either side. In these views I have roughly shaped the knight head and one hawse piece on either side of the stem and tried to dry fit it. Frame 1 is loosely set in place, and I am going to make up more hawse pieces to try to fill the gap. I have rough sanded using a Dremel, but don’t dare get over aggressive yet. I have no way to say that what I am doing is accurate as there are no plans for me to follow. My approach may work, we’ll see. looking forward see the hawse pieces glued side view...not a lot of room for cant frames. front view starboard bow view looking at the pages of the Crowthers book on framing the bow
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thank you Wefalck for your sympathy...I am surely learning by trial and error. But having fun thank you Allan I downloaded and started reading the article. I am OK through the first 20 pages. let's see how it goes as he gets into the real deal I am also trying to find black monofilament to use for bolts, since I found I can see them. the copper wire and trying to darken it is a pain. Now I am getting to main area where they will be visible it becomes important. thanks for the suggested reading FYI Ernestina is planned for launching this month. I'll post and update when she does cheers jon
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The first frames are glued! This story is more a saga, as I find my way through the fields of trial and error. I am using 2d cad only and trying to make frames…tough to do when we get to the bow area. 40 here was my trial which ended with oops. I just kept rough cutting the frames thinking that the slight bevel at the top of the jig meant something…..it did not here are three frames that need to be rebuilt with a little planning. My effort follows 41. here on the plan to remake frame 2. I turned on the layer for frame 1.5. I then used seat of my pants judgement to decide where to cut the inside 42 here is my first trial starting at frame 3. 43 here are the first three rough cut. That means to me as far as I dare go with power tools 44 here is the stack cleaned up. In the end I made all five twice and two if them [ sta 1 and sta 1.5] three times. I assume that with my methods I will still need to sand after I get them in place, so I left them just a bit heavy. I also used this time to drill and place 24-gauge copper wire to simulate iron bolts and used liver of Sulphur to darken them. I doubt they will be visible but would hate to find out later they are and find I didn’t have any. 45. Here is my self-made jig. I milled out some planks to use as spacers, and hope it works. 46 tada!!! My first three frames are being glued to the keel and jig. The jig, at 4 inches above the keel, is about an inch above the future deck. 47 I am lucky that the clamps I made up for the last POF build are small enough to just fit through the smaller scale spacing. 48. the first view of what hopefully will be a progression of shots, as the work progresses aft. Next up I am working away at the mast trim out and deck work on the smaller brig and want to get the frames going forward on the big brig in place and figure out an approach to install deck frame clamps to make the structure secure as I move aft.
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