Jond
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56 update on the bow section progress of the larger half brig H G Berry I am learning quite a bit here as I push through. First up I realized that the loose fit of dry fit would only get me a little way in the progress. I soon knew that I needed to commit and get the bow section fixed, so I could then build the cant frames to tie in the two sides of the gap I then realized that I needed to break up the keelson and rider into manageable pieces and install them along the way. I also found that another round of making the cant frames was in order. I went to the next scored joint on the keel and cut it through. I then found I needed to hurry up and to get about 4 more frames in place, so I could get that first two keelson sections done and the first rider in place. That first rider ties the stem together and is important. let’s see how it went 1. In this view I have cut down the keelson into its first section and tied together the forward stem assembly and the keel and it is glued 2. In this view the second keelson section is being glued 3. Here the first rider piece is going in 4. Here we see the first rider section is in and glued 5. Here was the square set up to make the stem plumb 6. Here is my next attempt at making the two cant frames 7. Here looking down I have lightly glued the first cant frame to hold it as I fix the second 8. Looking from the inside I remain mostly concerned regarding the inside sanding access once I tie it all together. 9. Here from the inside we see all forward frames in place. I have started gluing in straps to better support the frames above the jig for inside sanding. I hope it works. 10. Here is the new bow on view. I am comfortable that I be able to turn the hull over and sand these outside. Hopefully this does work out. I am thinking it makes sense to slow down and start to lay out the deck and rail lines. I have started adding temporary “ clamps’ above them to strengthen the whole thing to allow sanding before I try to install any of the real structure. All for now
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Welfalck Thank you for your thoughtful feedback. I appreciate hearing from someone data that ties nicely with the small strings of info I have been able to gather regarding these merchant vessels. I have read tons about schooners and find much less about brigs. to you points..... • I have read that for a square sail mast 4 to six crew were typical depending on size…at 75 +/_ feet I go with max of 4 • For the larger merchant schooners it is stated in many sources to be 2 per mast, then the captain cook and mates. That 2 gets us to six • Then a cook, a captain [ often a part owner], a mate, and likely one more that could be a second mate relative etc. • If all those are aboard that would be ten. That just seems like a lot of people to me on a 75 foot vessel. I had 3 in the aft cabin and 7 forward " Caboose" • Bow ports were very common on the large schooners here in Maine. Mainers sold lots of wood. In later years it was often deck storage, but for long pine or spruce poles either from here going south or from the Carolinas going either north or further south, bow ports made sense. I have not seen them on any of the models in local museums other than on schooners. • The skylight in the photo was a 15-minute built placeholder, more for massing. It is roughly 3 by 4 feet and covers the common area. I suspect the closed in captain, mate, and head area would block most daylight, and a small openable skylight would have been likely. • The aft cabin is shown in the 112 foot Torrent painting I have, and in other models I have seen, to have a lower sole [ mid level deck 3 feet down]. One advantage is to give the captain access to the area under the after deck to store food , a wee dram and the like. Also, I learned several of the Brigs had the aft cabins go side to side, so its roof was sort of a poop deck. It would not go all the way aft and the helm and sailing area would be at the main deck level. The cabin in the photo was too tall and will be cut down. • I agree with your assessment that the best layout would leave 4 to 5 feet clear on either side of the cabin. That would on this just under 19-foot-wide vessel make the cabin only 10 feet across. If I keep what I have it is 12 feet and less than 4 foot clear either side…... As I plan to focus on a few more items, I will also make up another cabin that is smaller. Also flatten the roof, add waterboard and rails for storing boats etc. I am going to partially rationalize that for a 75-foot sailing vessel a full crew of 10 is too much and reduce that to 8 and move on. That approach should allow a better “ Caboose” Thanks again for all you feedback
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Wefalck Thanks for the observation. One of the main reason for posting in these logs is to hear feedback. I must say with a smile that on this side of the pond , we are proud of Daniel Boone and the log cabin. I understand however they were invented in Sweden. I have been struggling all along with the size of the cabins. The " on Deck" fore cabin once decided on and reworked or perhaps totally rebuilt with water boards , maybe a flat roof of smaller planks etc, and two boats on top will hopefully fit in. The problem remains the size and trying to understand what would have been built not having any drawings of the small size vessel. There is not much information I can find regarding these early small commercial brigs [ half Brigs too] . What I have found says they had crews double the size of a schooner crew. other articles suggest 12..I think that is too big at 76 feet. There is no focs'le crew quarter like in either a whaler or a fishing schooner. That means a cabin big enough for 7 or maybe 8 to live in for a four plus month journey. It's also the only enclosed area for equipment repair, the galley etc. One choice is to ignore all that and simply scale down the cabin dimensions that are available for the 112 foot Brig to where is looks nice but then realize it is too small to house the crew. perhaps they were all "hot" bunked anyway. the forst problem is those cabins include the foremast. to move this cabin forward past the mast just won't work. it is too tight. I stated previously I prefer not to build something that doesn't work. I see no comparisons that put some of the crew below deck either. These vessels historically sailed to the Caribbean and back. Anyone with input to this quandary is most welcome. In the meantime my cabins are and will remain loose and likely the last thing to be added. I think the rear cabin size is pretty well figured out so now to consider....do I keep a rounded roof. it is about a foot in scale too tall and the sky light is temporary. As there is less to worry about I will clean it up and probably set it. I may go ahead a make a nice small fore cabin and set it in for a look see. we need two boats on its roof to hold the full crew..say 18 feet long. The big cabin now just does that. I appreciate all comments so thanks again jon
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55 update on the build out of the deck….small brig I am working my way from stem plus bow sprit to stern figuring out to build and place so I can get the deck work done and be ready to set the masts. Some os straight forward and some is guessing…let’s look Here I am adding reef points to fore cousesail. I have since played a bit to add other lines. Here I have added a chain drive under the helm. Thus, I believe I need two lazarette to gain access to them. the mock ups are to move around and decide where to put two hatches and what size. I am not sure if they would have used the area aft of the cabin for other storage of say spare lines and the like…thus a bit of guess work. Perhaps they had access from inside the cabin....that is my assumption after seeing that on both Bowdoin and Ernestian similar sized schooners. There clearly is not room for an aft hatch. I also added docking hawse pipe that was not on the whaler and an aft bitts. The main sheet will be made there. • Here I have built the main fife rail and pump. I plan to leave them natural as I like the look of the Costello. I believe they would have had a simple log pump in these early vessels. There was a maker of such in the same harbor. I used brass tube for the pump. • Here I have made up a binnacle • Here with the cabin set the lack of room on a 76 foot brig / half Brig, is quite evident. It is easy to understand the act of building the aft cabin fully across the deck. I already stated earlier in the log that we know that was done on the larger Brig. • General view of the aft half Next up I have started the bowsprit rigging and the forward deck anchors etc.
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
she is launched! a big step forward now to complete here rigging and learn of her sea trials
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
the day of the launch all started off well. we were among some thirty boats maneuvering in wind and incoming tide. 10:30. there is a land side crowd gathering and several ceremonies on deck finally about 1130 she started to move high tide about 12:30 some thirty minutes later the team must have thought "what's the rush"... perhaps better to be above to see whats happening under the water, and they stopped here we are 24 hours later. they apparently decided to go down at low tide as far as they could while inspecting everything on the way. This revision makes a lot of sense, it's just less flashy. we can see the rail and car ready for the incoming tide. here is a closer view of the roller system that rests on the steel capped timber rails. the heavy chain to pull in and the lighted chain to pull out. Hopefully by this time tomorrow she will floated
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
finally the day before the launch. all looks ready
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
these ondeck photos were taken in May I love the prisms that made there way onto the decking. The windless totally rebuilt.
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
now to the masts the new larger lower masts are new. the old lower masts were cut to make the new top masts
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
on two different days in may seeing what is going on on the railway everything has been cleaned out and turned up for the big day. the dory was a donation from a local family that sailed on her to the arctic the ballast is laid out waiting for the the installation diagrams the new prop is installed my little sail boat got launched on the adjacent railway...such fun
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Ernestina Morrissey by Jond - FINISHED - 1:48
Jond replied to Jond's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
news flash. Ernestina Morrissey the real deal is ready to launch tomorrow in Boothbay Harbor a month ago i took a tour below decks to see the completed photos here is a tour
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Cutting the bow stem assembly and trial fitting two cant frames. 53 Well maybe cutting the bow frame assembly back for a frame worked. I over cut it a bit with the band saw and made a little slice into the keel. I tried to fix with clear glue and sawdust. • Here we are on the bandsaw ready to cut…. • Here the bow assembly is cut, and we see it from the side • Looking at the inside of the cut piece, there is still much sanding to do, and I am concerned as to access once in place for the inside. Therefore, I think it is dry fit sand, then dry fit sand etc. • Here I have dry fit two potential cant frames and frame 1. I also went ahead and glued in frame 1.5 as it rests on the keel, and I am now confident that it will work. • Here for the side all is loose, but it seems will work out. • Here is a view of the bow assembly sitting on the frame 1 outline. There is room, I hope, for two frames between to fill the gap. The cant of them is “slight” just to divide the gap into three spaces. I will over cut them a bit as I need to turn them forward just a bit • Here the first one is made up and the second ready to go. I am not sure how I can hold them in dry fits …. that is for next week
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General update and progress on the small Brig……yes I should say half brig ….to be named Albert If one cares why I number photos in my log, it is because they come from different sources, and I want to be able to file them away in chronological order close to the blog. Then if I want to dive into the folder, they are easier to follow. It does take time and I am trying to find an easier way. Now I am on an apple, they make it harder to rename each one. I am now numbering each batch [ per post]. So just ignore my numbers. 54 updating the small brig sails I have tried to work on parallel paths on this build. As I am working the deck on the hull, I am doing the masts and sails, so that when the deck is ready, much of the rigging and sails are ready. I am not convinced this is easier than doing the work on the model, but it is faster and a little safter. I can move things around and not drop stuff on the model deck as I do repetitive things like tie, glue and cut ratlines. The following sequence includes some of the work I have done this month. • Here I have trimmed out the yards. This view shows my attempt to add wet white glue and weights to shape and hold the foot ropes. • Here I have traced sails from the Cate Cory plan. I have left over painted silk span from the last build that was a bit messy. I like that feel of older rougher canvas for a sail that is on a working half brig. • I built a light box and traced the lines onto the silk span • Here we are with the first one cut out and strips ready for assembly. I am using thin annealed steel wire around and thread on the head of the sail • Here is a step I learned the hard way. Model sails tend to grow. Therefore, it is a good idea to take the model spar and as I did here cut the sails down just enough • Here again I am tracing out the lines. In this view one can see I tried hard to make the back-to-back lines just a hair apart from each other so if one can see through the sail it looks like a double seem. I did it but I cannot see through. • Here I have set the first sail on the trimmed fore mast. I am working on a spare hull and therefore dropsies don’t matter. I am debating if, or if how many lines I add before transferring to the model. I think the lifts and sheets for the yards and sails make sense to do here • I moved the trimmed masts over to the main hull for some progress pictures. The masts have their shrouds and ratlines. Next up is all those little blocks. • Here the deck work is getting about halfway. I need to figure out fife rails, and the rigging plan next, make a pump, complete the helm, add bitts etc. I did cut down the cabins some since i last shared them. All for now
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Now back to the bow Here in my hand is the assembled ‘draft’ stem plus knight head plus four hawse pieces. What to do next? • Here I sanded back and tested a few times and the pencil mark shows where I believe I need to cut it back and replace it with a forward cant frame • Here miraculously the other side is almost the same • Here looking down on a loose dry fit, it seems that the square frame 1 will end up going in as planned. I am thinking two cant frames will make it all work • In this view I see in the photo that the two loose frames, 1.5 and 1, have slid back a bit. With them plumbed, there should be just room to make the two cant frames. Now how to make them….the adventure continues how can I cut that and make it presentable. Will this attempt be just a draft? We’ll see
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To complete the above sequence, I record a few more views of the frame assembly To complete assembling the frames I have made a new change. I used to use copper wire glue through a hole, filed smooth and then darkened with Liver of Sulphur. I saw a trick somewhere of using black monofilament. After finding no black in any local fishing or hardware store, I made some exchanges with an internet site to learn what the 10 lb vs 30 lb test line diameter might be. I landed on 30 LB was the same as gauge 24 wire, then alas …”out of stock”. So, I settled om 25 lb test and it works ok. Before this next step I used a little water on the paper cutting guide and the edge of a chisel to scrape away the white glue. I then used a Dremel and some hand sanding to improve the shape of the frame prior to drilling those roughly forty holes for simulated bolts. • Here I am using a general glue as I fear the AC will eat the plastic • Here after experimenting I found a new scalpel blade works best to cut off and scrape any glue residue. After this step I will fine sand the frame before installing In conclusion I want to admit what I am not doing ,that I am amazed to see the real pros do. The real frames on larger ships according to Crowther’s were stepped. I.e. the first “floor “of a 12 inch frame might be 14 “ wide and deep and the first futtocks 12 inches. Then the subsequent futtocks or top timber stepped down in both directions as they reached to top. Also, there was more science to the location of the joints. In my previous build of a 100-foot schooner, I knew as I was copying the real vessel, Ernestina Morrissey, that the frames were all consistent, so stepping was not necessary. In this model I cannot tell anyone what was real in 1840. However…this is a 112 foot vessel. Not that much different than a schooner, EM was of the same size. This is not a 200-foot ship. So perhaps my short cut of making all the frames 12 inch all the way up may be accepted. next up more on the bow
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Allan thank you so much for your kind words. Yes each build to me is much more than the model. The build is an adventure. My talk on the history of the Boothbay Shipyards, first 100 years is on the 25th . I will share a few more points from it in the log here afterward as they relate to the build of these brigs. I will call that brief bit ....brigs of Boothbay. this afternoon we are having a tour on a historic vessel around the harbor and I will share that too. I will send you the link.
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I thought that for encouragement of other learners like me, I would put together the sequence of a frame. This is no museum piece, but it is fun to try to make bones, and I encourage others to try. This build is my second attempt. The following photo group is the first half of a frame sequence. Two prints of the TurboCad layer “frame 18” with pencil marks for joints to be set under plexiglass sheet Cut out 3/32” by ¾” or 5/8” strips of Costello with butt ends glued Two half frames glued together One copy of print cut out and white glued for cutting …lining up with other Rough cut Outside shape Inside shape Sometimes I lose the ID label or keel marks. I keep the second print out and find several times it’s convenient to check back in, so I keep them. _____________________________________ The bow section is tough already, but with absolutely no predrawn cant frames it is fun. I have no idea if this method will work, but here I go again The following view shows a progressive idea. First is the book by Crowthers showing us how the bow was to have been framed. The key for me is two knight heads and four hawse pieces 12” on either side. In these views I have roughly shaped the knight head and one hawse piece on either side of the stem and tried to dry fit it. Frame 1 is loosely set in place, and I am going to make up more hawse pieces to try to fill the gap. I have rough sanded using a Dremel, but don’t dare get over aggressive yet. I have no way to say that what I am doing is accurate as there are no plans for me to follow. My approach may work, we’ll see. looking forward see the hawse pieces glued side view...not a lot of room for cant frames. front view starboard bow view looking at the pages of the Crowthers book on framing the bow
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thank you Wefalck for your sympathy...I am surely learning by trial and error. But having fun thank you Allan I downloaded and started reading the article. I am OK through the first 20 pages. let's see how it goes as he gets into the real deal I am also trying to find black monofilament to use for bolts, since I found I can see them. the copper wire and trying to darken it is a pain. Now I am getting to main area where they will be visible it becomes important. thanks for the suggested reading FYI Ernestina is planned for launching this month. I'll post and update when she does cheers jon
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The first frames are glued! This story is more a saga, as I find my way through the fields of trial and error. I am using 2d cad only and trying to make frames…tough to do when we get to the bow area. 40 here was my trial which ended with oops. I just kept rough cutting the frames thinking that the slight bevel at the top of the jig meant something…..it did not here are three frames that need to be rebuilt with a little planning. My effort follows 41. here on the plan to remake frame 2. I turned on the layer for frame 1.5. I then used seat of my pants judgement to decide where to cut the inside 42 here is my first trial starting at frame 3. 43 here are the first three rough cut. That means to me as far as I dare go with power tools 44 here is the stack cleaned up. In the end I made all five twice and two if them [ sta 1 and sta 1.5] three times. I assume that with my methods I will still need to sand after I get them in place, so I left them just a bit heavy. I also used this time to drill and place 24-gauge copper wire to simulate iron bolts and used liver of Sulphur to darken them. I doubt they will be visible but would hate to find out later they are and find I didn’t have any. 45. Here is my self-made jig. I milled out some planks to use as spacers, and hope it works. 46 tada!!! My first three frames are being glued to the keel and jig. The jig, at 4 inches above the keel, is about an inch above the future deck. 47 I am lucky that the clamps I made up for the last POF build are small enough to just fit through the smaller scale spacing. 48. the first view of what hopefully will be a progression of shots, as the work progresses aft. Next up I am working away at the mast trim out and deck work on the smaller brig and want to get the frames going forward on the big brig in place and figure out an approach to install deck frame clamps to make the structure secure as I move aft.
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Wefalck well said thanks
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Rick welcome from another mainer. we have a group that meet up in Bath and would welcome you. My recent reading included chapelle and he described the snow as did Wefalck to be rigged with a smaller mast, whose top fits into the cross tree as it sat behind the lower mizzen. Think of the large diameter of the main mast on brig or mizzen on a ship and the challenge of the yokes of spars and a lower square sail. I believe the snow was limited to brig and have read the name spencer mast when reading about a ship. I am sure you know the penobscot museum well. We had lunch in Belfast while up there..a great town. cheers
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Wefalck first thanks for your response above. I went up the coast the other day with summer visitors to the Penobscot Museum in Searsport, Maine. I had not been in several years and it was fun to see the collection of models and paintings. I wanted to increase what I had on Brigs. There was a wonderful example display titled hermaphrodite brig so and so that gave even another explanation. It agreed with me that there are stays on the mainmast so gaff rigged fore is nuts. They have spanker directly on the main mast....no spencer mast or snow rig . I laughed and wanted immediately to share it with you with you agreement that some subjects have "alternate facts". It seems alternate facts are an increasing popular event over here on our side of the pond. this view belongs to the Penobscot museum. it is close to what I think I will be modeling back to the subject ..I appreciate your suggestion of ...lets carry on cheers
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Wefalck, I am honored at your visit….sorry for the abbreviations and calling all a brig. You are absolutely correct. According to my studies there are three brig configurations. Then there is a fourth short name local to Maine. I also take issue with standing rigging …see below .... you can tell this topic is much on my mind. A quick look at a dictionary online: I would also point out that if you go to more sites you can find more disagreements too. hermaphrodite brig from oxford languages 1. a two-masted sailing ship with a square-rigged foremast and, on the mainmast, a square topsail above a fore-and-aft gaff mainsail. ** brigantine. 2. a two-masted sailing ship with a square-rigged foremast and a fore-and-aft-rigged mainmast. ** see my comment below re foresail. I believe that definition is wrong because the need for head stay [s] 38. Please see a slide from my upcoming lecture on Boothbay shipyards…..the talk is more about who were there, when, and what vessels they built than any highly technical stuff. The images are off the internet. In the view on the left we have: 1. Lower left…full brig. Squares on both masts 2. Upper left. Hermaphrodite brig. Where one square sail is on the main mast and staysails go forward, as there are two, a lower main stay and main topmast stay, that would interfere with a fore sail. Note I prefer this view that disagrees with the dictionary definition! 3. Upper center. Brigantine. I question some of the images here. A Schooner rig has a jumper stay that is lower mast top to lower mast top and no head stay on the mainmast. As a foresail is shown, it makes no sense to me that a main lower mast head stay be shown. I am still looking for more images so that I can be more comfortable to model a foresail with boom and gaff. if such a stay is there one can only sail on one tack. 4. I read last winter that in Maine, during the 19th century, the Brigantine was called a half brig. Surely the logical thought could be half brig half schooner. The discussion of the standing rig configuration probably plays a part. I would love to learn more about where the variations may have taken place. I am stating what I have read, not what I know. My reading here tells us, full brigs were early and two that were so launched were soon converted to “half brigs”. The prevailing southwest wind on the East coastline made the half brig [ brigantine] popular. Also it allowed smaller crews. We also know there were many topsail schooners built here as well. It seems there are many blogs, books, and samples regarding naval brigs, and they were often shown as full brigs. I find very little information on these merchant vessels. They seemed to stop in the late 1850’s. After our Civil War, the US ruled only domestic bottoms for interstate commerce, and the boom in building bigger schooners began. Again, thanks for dropping in and I would love to hear if you could share more info or suggest any references. Jon
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Keith I am always pleased when you drop in and gently shove me in the right direction. I have since cut the fore cabin down to where there is reasonable deck access, but still enough room to carry on all the activities needed to be inside a deck crew cabin. I assume in cold waters that to mend a sail, splice a new line, mend fittings, cook, sleep when possible for say 7 crew that 12 by 14 will have to do. I also believe, but have no good source to support my felling, that the crew must have been reduced to no more than 10 when the Brig…..brigantine. was only 75 feet long. I have been reminded that even today, as in this summer, 5 adults sailed in a 32-foot sailboat for a week and no one was thrown overboard. Thanks
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It’s time for my first show and tell at our Downeast Shipmodeler’s guild monthly meeting. I got things ready for the local group critique and went off to Bath. They were kind….truly as the small brig needs lots of clean up. One smart guy said....hey that looks like one of those kit whalers........ Small Brig 32. in this view we see a few more changes. I have roughed out two deck cabins, the hatch and shown the plan to store boats. I am starting with the cabins as a similar size as in the painting of the 112-foot brig. They look too big, but I cannot shrink them too much, as they need to fit bunks galley people etc. 33. I have also roughed out the windless and hatch and placed the first dead eyes. 34 this view shows placement of the aft cabin works. I have enough room to squeeze in the helm, a lazarette, bitts and binnacle. There just is not enough room at the midship hatch, so I will shrink that cabin a bit. As to the boat on the stern, I am still wondering about the whaler designed tail feather to support the smaller boat aft. As of now they are coming off. 35. surprise. I have treated myself to a new Byrnes disc sander. Wow it is a great addition and will surely improve my work. Sanding my first frames was wonderful. It will take some learning to get the bevels right. 36 here we see the first fully sanded frame. it fit yippee A final check before I move ahead with the cabins 37. In this scaled sketch based on the painting of the larger brig, [ and the width reduced to fit the smaller brig…12 ft]. the fore cabin is 18 by 12 feet, and the aft cabin is 13 by 12 feet. A theoretical combined layout shows bunks for 3 in the aft cabin and maybe 7 forward. My plan is to move ahead with the cabins. The fore cabin will be reduced about a foot or too in scale to make the deck hatch access seem more reasonable. The boats I have chosen to use as of now are one at 17 on the stern and one at 19 feet on the roof. One at 19 feet just clears the shrouds when rigging off the roof. Now back to work...all for now
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