drtrap

...... Can't wait to see it finished.

Me too Readbeard!!

Thank you for stopping by!

This is a good question for now:

what are you doing to protect your model from the dust, especially after you have glued the masts in the deck? 

.................Just as a suggestion you could get going with the standing rigging if you have the masts completed - that should give you plenty of time to think about your approach on the yards

That's a good choice Jason.

It's a long trip doing the standing rigging. The masts are almost completed. 

Thanks

Stergios - no hole was drilled for the sling cleats, the hole was for some wire in the back of the yard that will attach to the mast.

Thanks again Jason.

Well guys, I feel a bit confused with the manual on the yards assembly and attachments...

I prefer to stay and wait to see your progress first, one way or another.

In every case I've to deal with the placement of the lowermasts now.

Cheers

......   To help secure the yard to the mast I inserted a small length of brass wire and drilled a hole in the mast, as well as installing the sling cleats  ................

 

 

 

 

Hi Jason

why did you drill holes in the mast to attach tle sling cleats?

Did you expect a "appreciable" tension/load on them during next stages of rigging etc?

Thanks.

Hi

I did pins for all the yards on all of the masts. i suspect it would be easiest to do the pins now before you attach the masts in place but you'll need to be careful with alignment.

Thank you Jim.

Have you used the 1mm brass wire or usual planking nails (without head) for the pinning?

Cheers.

Hi guys

how I've told you I'm two steps before the final placement of the lowermasts in the deck.

At this stage I'd like to ask you: did you open in advance 1mm holes to connect (by pinning) the back side of the yards on the masts? If so, did you do it for the topmast and topgallant-mast yards too, in advance?

Is it advisable to create those holes now or (because the respective rigging heights and distances on the masts differ sometimes) at a later (more mature) stage?

Thank you all.

Stergios

I have completed the shapping of all the yards of the model.

Now I'm trying to understand the right way to fit and fix the yard's metals and accesories in place. The kit instructions provide little help for this..

My main plan is to accomplish the fitting of all the wooden parts (masts, yards, etc) and then procced to the final fixing of the masts, starting with the gluing of the lower 1/3's (lowermasts) on the deck.

Thanks

...end for the rest of the yards material (rings, etc) didi you buy again extra aftermarket fittings?

Thank you for your time to provide support on every issue, again...

.....

Cheers Jason, may I ask you, those structures in the middle of the yard, are custom/hand made by you (using 1x1 mm spare wood)?

I cant' see what Jim has done for the same point....

White straps is a "safe" option Jim, but I'd prefer any other color to create a kind of contrast...

I've sanded down for a second time those undesirable look-like mast-sections trying to restore a unique and smooth circumference in order to accept again a thin layer of water diluted walnut matt varnish.

Now, the result is excellent

I used the day before a lightly walnut-coloured varnish and today I've applied a layer of matt varnish without any sanding between the two steps.

I dont like at all some spots of roughness. I sanded the dowel using paper No 400 before the initial varnish.

I've sanded down for a second time those undesirable look-like mast-sections trying to restore a unique and smooth circumference in order to accept again a thin layer of water diluted walnut matt varnish.

I used the day before a lightly walnut-coloured varnish and today I've applied a layer of matt varnish without any sanding between the two steps.

I dont like at all some spots of roughness. I sanded the dowel using paper No 400 before the initial varnish.

This is how it is supposed to be using walnut unpainted (but varnished) dowels.

I've a tendency to follow this road...

Stergios - you are correct.  Think I posted a bit about this in my log, you may want to check the size of the PE "end caps" before determining the diameter at the end of the yard.  I'm not sure they are really necessary though.  Sorry, can't really provide much more info, you seem to be on the right track.

Hi Jason and thank you.

I'm trying to read and follow your posts (as Jim's too) in advance.

All I wanted was to make clear the starting point for the tappering.

Thanks.

I think I've found the answer.

I have to sand the dowel of the yard starting from the octagonal border of its centre (approx. 6mm) and going & tappering gradualy towards both free edges to reach a final diameter of 2,5 mm

In case I'm wrong, please send me your notification.... 

What proportion of each free end of the yard do you sand down to obtain the required tappering?

The instruction comment for the last 1/3 of each half of the yard but I dont't feel to be in the safe side, that way....

I'm thinking to start sanding from the mark point (that is 40 mm away from the free edge of each 80 mm white 6mm dowel)...

Thank you all.

Cheers

Stergios

Something that I have done is to use a satin varnish first, it brings out the colour of the wood more, it can then be lightly sanded and layers of matt applied.  Using only the matt didn't really enhance the wood at all.  Of course its all personal preference.

Thank you Jason, for the moment I've applied a kind of lightly walnut coloured varnish, and I'll see the day after the results..

Once again the famous difference between the masts.

To tell the truth, I'm thinking again to change and paint in yellow ochre the topmast and topgallant mast...
I see walnut dowels so..pale.

Before my final decision I'll apply a layer of mat varnish, hoping to reach a more warm-like walnut appearance....

I think Jim's suggestion should work just fine...is the difference noticeable to the eye?  Bubble levels can have a tendency to induce panic and call out problems that at not that noticeable.  When raining masts on my Snake, I tried to look at the whole mast together (main, top, and topgallant) as there were likely small bowing of the down not noticeable individually, it also helps ensure that you don't fix a problem that creates a larger one down the road.  Just my experience!

Thank you Jason

I've tried to demonstrate the visual feeling of the difference (see post #510).

It's a slight difference but I'd like to reduce that problem... 

That's a posterior view of the model

...how you see, the mainmast is more "centered" on the deck than the foremast...   

Well, there is a slight inclination of the mainmast to the right or of the foremast to the left....

Any additional idea (except Jim's opinion to file the base of the dowel) to handle this "little" problem?