drtrap

Looking good Stergios. 

Thank you for dropping in Joe

My personal "taste" of coloring (using dark-mate varnish) of the capstan and companionway.

The walnut parts of the kit were too pale in my opinion...

I've decided to glue and fix the fittings of the deck before I start the bowsprit assembly.

These are some pics of my latest progress.

Hi Jim

I'm trying to "study" the photos related to your No 142 post but can't see anything. Have u changed their format or that's a technical error?

Thanks

Stergios

By the way, about the anchor rope a question, what kind and size of line did you use? 

This is a basic question for my snake mates.

Following the plan No 2 I'm measuring a bowsprit outer length (from the front of the hull to the other edge, a>b (see my previous drawing)) of about 13 cm long.

The length of the relative Jiboom is about 15 cm long.

Do you kindly confirm the above dimensions to enable me to avoid any important mistake?

Thank you.

PS: For the anchor, have you used the standard natural 2,5 mm rope of the kit?

The inclination of the bowsprit is a point of concern but I think that I'll keep this ratio

Small, quick update...

I'm pretty happy with the arrangment of the bowsprit and the relative bracket...

Did you flatten the end of the dowel?  That will make it sit further back, it will also affect the angle slightly.  I have pictures in my log - I also found that the bowsprit was seemed to want to finish in front of the bowsprit brackers, that was mainly why I used a false end in the bracket to hide this, but keep the angle of the bowsprit appropriate.  If you haven't already seen it, I did keep track of the various challenges/mistakes I made doing this so that may be worth a look.  Best of luck!

I'm so closely following your log Jason and Jim's log too.

I'll keep you informed.

Cheers 

Out of duty shipyard...

Ooopppss.

The inclination seems nice (or not ?) but the central edge of the dowel can not reach the "docking point" of the bowsprit bracket.

Thinking to use a round file to enlarge the bowsprit hole or to file the central 1/4 edge of the dowel to pass it through that I've created in advance. 

Thank you Jason.

By looking sheet No 1 the distance a>b is 13 cm. When I'll shape and fix the central edge beneath the bowsprit bracket, I'll cut the dowel to a point as to keep that distance from the anterior front of the hull.

Thank you Jason.

I'm trying to study currently the procedures needed for the bowsprit installation. I dont't feel very happy and that I'm on the safe side with it...

It is supposed that to start I have to cut the 8 mm dowel at a length of 212 mm but I don't know whether this dimension is the right one in practise, especially when the angle of inclination of the bowsprit and its central edge placement (pinned or glued on the deck) can easily alter (?) the levers and the attachments of the other edge... 

So, starting to share a lot of question for this I'd like to ask you, did you encounter any initial problems with the length of 212 mm?

Do you suggest as my 1st step to dry fix the bowsprit bracket and test/file the central edge of the dowel accordingly before I cut to length of the sheet No2 212 mm?

Every help would be appreciated..! 

I plan to leave for the moment unglued the gratings and the basic deck fittings and start to deal with the bowsprit placement and the bowsprit bracket fit.

Is there any contra-indication on this by your experience?

Thank you.

Now trying to figure out the "course anatomy" of the anchor rope.

Looking at the drawings of the kit and the photos of senior mates I think that first step is to fix the 1st rope edge on the deck beneath the anterior grating (propably using those holes mentioned by Jason some posts above) and leave the other edge loose for tying the anchor many steps later.  

It's coming together nicely!

 

Definitely easier installing deck eyelets without other deck furniture in the way.........

That;s right Jim!

I'll try to postpone fixing those fittings the later I can....

Deck eyelets firmly fixed in place (after pre-drilled 0,5 mm holes) without any glue....

The latest shots of her.

Thank you

Just a couple of photos showing the deck gratings (unglued still) in place.

For the mo I'm trying to find a "varnished way" to revitalize the mood/pale appearance of the walnut parts...

Hi Jason

may I ask you about those two types of holes drilled on the desk and their importance?

Have you created those holes as an in advance procedure for the next steps of the deck fittings fixing, for example to tie and "thread" the large rope of the most anterior gratting?

As always, thank you.

Stergios

I didn't pin the gratings, just glued to the deck.  All the other fittings (especially the pin rails) were pinned as these need to take some strain from the rigging.  Matt (uncoloured) varnish was used on everything.

Thanks Jason

It's time to go back to the deck fittings.

Two basic questions before I proceed: have you glued only or pin-fixed the fittings and especialy the grattings on the deck?

Have you applied any varnish on those fittings? Slightly coloured or uncoloured?

Thank u in advance.

Stergios

Yes that would be 21...... Ooops!

Right !!

Dimitris welcome!

I'm so delighted to see your model in msw...

This is my point of view to create and drill the eyelets-holes for the deck, the best i can...

Thanks

Hi mate,

 

Yes, there are three pairs on the rear platform.

 

On sheet 3, which has the belaying plan, the others are marked:

 

A pair at belaying point 5 towards the middle of the main channel.

5 on the foremast.

5 on the mainmast.

3 on the mizzen mast.

 

This makes 23 which is more than is provided.....

 

I had to order some extra.

Hi Jim

I'm counting a total of 21 pieces (parts 8, 15, 16, 17, 18 and those three of the mizzen mast on plan No 3) and i feel lucky cause all those 21 pieces are in the box of the kit.

I'm so tired in ordering everytime new supplies and waiting approx. two weeks for the delivery....