drtrap

Next stop: trying to chequ the alignment of the midle (top mast dowel) and the lower part of the foremast.

The most difficult point of this procedure is to find the right height to open the hole and pass the hinge to stop the middle part on the gunwale (i prefer to use a 2mm toothpick vs the 1,5 mm walnut strip). All the parts are dry fitted, so isn;nt so easy to keep them in the right way.

Hi everybody, I'm back again.

The most difficult point at this stage is to shape and align both the rectangular edges of the same mast part at the same plane/axis... 

Thanks again Mort.

The lower parts of the fore-, main- and mizzen mast are ready.

I'll shape the other 2/3 parts and following the literature and your advices, I'll see.

For the mo I'm leaving for the greek islands for some days....

Cheers!! 

Hi Stergios,

 

There is nothing to thank me for. We are all in this together. Any advice I can offer I will.

 

Lever is Darcy Lever - "Young Officer's Sheet Anchor"

 

Pattersson is Lennarth Petersson - "Rigging Period Ship Models"

 

Lees is James Lees - "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War"

 

Take your time and enjoy the rigging process.

 

I only have to rig #'s 54 and 55, the lower ratlines and hoist the Red Ensign.....hopefully 3-5 weeks more. 

 

Keep up the great work. Your model is beautiful.

 

Mort

Right, I've "Rigging period ships models" on my desk but I did/nt know the writter....

Thanks a lot.

Cheers

I have always preferred to attach as many yards and lines - both standing and running rigging lines - as possible to the masts before I step them.  On my last 3 ships - Mamoli Connie and Rattlesnake and Caldercraft Snake - I did not pin - nail -  the yards to the masts or the masts to the deck. I followed Lees, Pattersson and Lever and had no problem. It was just as they said. On my first few models I glued the masts to the deck and pined the - nailed - the yards to the masts.  

 

I think it is easier and faster to work with everything off of the ship. I label all of the standing rigging lines with the # of the pin they attach to. The schrouds are numbered from bow to stern on the plans  by me so I know where to tie them to on the model. Same with the fore and back stays.

 

There are times that all of the lines look like a plate of spaghetti but they are easy to untangle and you should have no problem if you take your time.

 

The rat lines I attach when everything is tied down.

 

Hope this helps,

Mort  

Hi again Mort

could you please inform me what;s exactly "Lees, Pattersson and Lever" ??   

A reffering rigging textbook or something related?

I'm in complete darkness about this.... 

Thank you in advance.

I have always preferred to attach as many yards and lines - both standing and running rigging lines - as possible to the masts before I step them.  On my last 3 ships - Mamoli Connie and Rattlesnake and Caldercraft Snake - I did not pin - nail -  the yards to the masts or the masts to the deck. I followed Lees, Pattersson and Lever and had no problem. It was just as they said. On my first few models I glued the masts to the deck and pined the - nailed - the yards to the masts.  

 

I think it is easier and faster to work with everything off of the ship. I label all of the standing rigging lines with the # of the pin they attach to. The schrouds are numbered from bow to stern on the plans  by me so I know where to tie them to on the model. Same with the fore and back stays.

 

There are times that all of the lines look like a plate of spaghetti but they are easy to untangle and you should have no problem if you take your time.

 

The rat lines I attach when everything is tied down.

 

Hope this helps,

Mort  

Hi Mort and thank you so much.

I think I need to take my time to deal with all those ...sticks and spaghetti!!

For the mo I feel more safe to attach first the lower parts on the deck, but we'll see, I'm taking seriously on my mind your reffering recommendation.

Thank you again!!

Stergios

In the middle of the summer a point for debating...:

to glue or to not glue to the deck the lower parts (lower-mast) of the fore- main- and mizzen-masts?

I've prepared and painted the lower parts of the masts as appropriate but I do'nt feel so sure about how to proceed....

What's the best next step? Gluing the lower masts to the deck, adding & gluing the upper parts to the lower parts of the masts or starting the shrouds bilaterally without gluing the masts on the deck?

If you're there, away from the beach, I'm waiting your experienced opinion/recommendations.

Thanks a lot!

Stergios 

...well, following Jason's and Jim's log, I see it is the front view... 

Hi snake-mates, hope to find you home...

Could you please help me: this is the front or the rear side of the mizzen-mast crosstrees/tressletree complex?

Thank you in advance!

Stergios

And the latest pics

Thank you

These side views showing the almost vertical and slightly posterior tilting of the lower-masts...

I consider as acceptable this tilting all I need is to have the gunwale-mast top parallell to the water...

I've uploaded some pics showing my little progress of these days...

The mainmast has a tilting tendency to the right, so I must find a mild way to restore this fault.

Summer days especially in Greece are so long.. You can't spend your time at the shipyard...

Enjoy your summer-time!

This is a critical step.

I'm trying to establish the right (parallel to the water) orientation of the lower top mast.

I need your comment, what's the best choice: sanding with a file the cheeks and bibbs or placing a wedge up there between the walnut parts?

Dry fitting of the fore and main lower masts....

Following the manual instructions the week before I cut and glued Nr 31 walnut parts for the foremast cheeks...

The right was to cut and glue Nr 32     

Another wrong from the manual writter propably due to a beer's complication...

The only solution for the main mast was to elongate parts Nr 32 (foremast) and simulate Nr 31 (main mast) cheeks.

Fore lower mast top, almost ready...

I've used my dremmel to sand down and fit the vertical 1,5X1,5 rail to the small top mast holes...

This is what I mean...

Now, I'm about to start the assembly & shaping of the main mast and I know what to do to do it better.

First thing in my opinion  is to mark and paint the yellow to black border below the bibbs and second to drill and open at hte same level the cleats holes. 

Jason, Robert, thank you both of you!

Are you referring to differences in the angle of the top and lower masts? They really should be parallel, and I definitely had adjustments to do to get it as accurate as possible. I used my eye to judge rather than any scientific measurement. If it looks good to you, that's really what matters as everyone sees things differently. Sorry if I misunderstood your question.

I'm referring to the fact that the main mast is'nt vertical/perpendicular to the deck.

Anyway, the only thing that matters is to align the lower mast top parallel to the waterline, from this point of view I am ok...

Thanks Jason

Looking good Stergios. You're right to get the platforms parallel to the waterline, I found it best to get that correct first as the bibs required a little shaping to match as each mast has a slightly different angle. Not sure if you've made the top masts yet, but I suggest doing that before finally fitting the masts as it's easier to work off the ship with small adjustments - my opinion. I also saw there is debate as to whether to glue the masts, I did and given the slow setting time of PVA glue there is plenty of time to ensure these are vertical.

Thank you Jason, I've almost completed the top mast out of the model (pics to follow...).

The foremast's lower edge is already dry-fitted/fixed in the respective hole/slot below the deck, with no chance of reamarkable changing of that slight posterior tilting...   Do you consider that tilting/inclination as undesirable/abnormal? In my opinion is'nt so important.

Thanks.

Stergios

Dry fitting of the fore-lower mast

There a slight posterior inclination but the lower top mast is parallel to the waterline.

I'm thinking to leave it as it is and glueing in place.

Proxxon db 250 lathe was a very usefull option/tool to enable me to mark and place almost correctly the black "metal" strips.... and the respective cleats.