drtrap

There is a difference between the plans and the anterior "opening" of the lower mast top but I hope that this is a minor cause of concern...

Thanks.

Crosstrees and tressletrees dry-fitted.

The foremast is'nt totally vertical to the deck, there is a slight posterior inclination, but the crosstrees and tressletrees are parallel to the waterline...

It was a really good option to plank the lower top mast following Jason's log but using 0,5X5 walnut planks and in a parallel way & fashion.... 

Foremast cheeks & bibbs glued and fixed in place.

Anyway, I give up.

Grating dry-fitted in place with amati aftermarket line of 2mm.

I hope that the free edges I left are of sufficient length to tie the anchor after time...

Despite the experienced references to use a 2mm line for the anchors, by looking the crew I don't consider the 2,5 mm line so huge especially as the rope for the main anchors of the ship....

It is my idea? 

Jason thanks for the pics which hopefully are back in you build log.

The point is that I can't see any black paper in the kit... 

Hi my friends

all those small strips of black paper of 2mm.... to simulate the metal bands etc on the masts.

It is about a special type (propably self-adhesive) paper?

How did you cut it and apply it so perfectly around the masts circumference?
I was thinking to apply rings of 2 turns of 0,75 line instead, I don't know whta's your opinion....

Thanks 

I've left the most anterior grating unglued for the mo.

I've seen that Jason and Jim (according to appropriate scales and literature) have used a 2mm line for the anchors.

A question in personal debate is how much out of scale could be the option of 2,5mm line...

Two more pics.

Thanks

Next stop was to place and glue the jibboom.

Pre-testing the bowsprit lashing was very easy. I've used the 0,75mm line for the jibboom.

Dolphin striker pinned in place and protected accordingly....

Next stop was to fix the bowsprit cap at 90 degrees to the keel.
I used this pin to hold it and after all I cut it and left it inserted flush in the cap to provide more stability.

Current update of her status...

I made the deadeyes and hearts collars, I'm pretty happy with the "first in sight" results...

In the meantime i've started to tie hearts and deadeyes around the bowsprit.

It was so easy  to do it after seeing Jason's drawing.... 

I decided to leave the top edge of the 1st component of the foremast and mainmast round like I did for the tenon of the bowsprit. I consider this as less important issue so I can lιve with it 

Started to shape the masts after a preliminary chequ for the balance/inclination of the dowels

It was a holly weekend as far as modelism was concerned....

Quick update with some pics.

Thanks

Next stop: started to learn how to cut the various masts sections (and especially how to make square a round section...   )....

Nice details Stergios

 

Cheers

Geoff

Thanks for dropping Geoff

a little touch up is needed.....

Very nice work  Stergios keep up the good work.

I am looking forward to seeing your next build, I wonder what it will be 

Vasileios

Thank you Vasileios. To see my next build (even I'm not sure what it will be, but you know my tendency..) I have to accelarate myshelf to finish my second beauty (Snake)

...to be continued

Updating in brief...

Dry fitting of the forward bitts and  bowsprit bracket and the consecutive steps

Tried to draw both methods with served (A) and unserved (B ).  Served is a little more complex because you need the exact measurement and you need to hide the 'join' where the line is 'spliced' with the seizing to secure the deadeye.  Although I haven't used the method outlined for the non-served line for deadeyes, I have used it elsewhere.  In both cases the seizing needs to be done on the bowsprit because the seizing essentially tightens everything and keeps it secure.  Method is the same for deadeyes and hearts.

 

The other I used method which I outlined earlier in the log was to make the deadeyes with eyes at each end, and then lash these together.  Although more accurate, its a real pain to do and I abandoned it after one as the results were not visible.

 

Hope this is readable and makes sense.

 

IMG_0763.JPG

Jason

your excellent drawing was absolutely helpfull, for all of us.

Many thanks.

Cheers

Stergios

Testing....