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drtrap

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Everything posted by drtrap

  1. Thank you Jason I've tried to demonstrate the visual feeling of the difference (see post #510). It's a slight difference but I'd like to reduce that problem... That's a posterior view of the model
  2. ...how you see, the mainmast is more "centered" on the deck than the foremast...
  3. Well, there is a slight inclination of the mainmast to the right or of the foremast to the left.... Any additional idea (except Jim's opinion to file the base of the dowel) to handle this "little" problem?
  4. That's another testing of the lowermasts And for first time this is a dry-fitted placement of all the masts (except the bowsprit) of the model. I think I'm ok as far as the posterior tilting/inclination of the masts is concerned...
  5. Those parts came out of the box with some holes in need of reinforcement... I'll place a thin layer of glue or something to withstand the later tension of the ropes...
  6. Week-ends, when I'm at home I find time to make progress... Today is time to align and test foremast and mainmast parts respectively. These are the top mast and topgallant mast of the fore and main masts respectively... The foremast and the mainmast both dry-fitted...
  7. Now I'm dealing with the mizzen mast.. Everything is dry-fitted except the platforms of the fore- and main- lowermasts. Thank you.
  8. And the additional pics for the mainmast.
  9. It took me a while to manage the respective "height" for the hole form the base of the topmast. After all everything was fine. That;s for the foremast
  10. Now it's time to try to dry-fit the masts joints. I'm happy enough with the results. Pics to follow asap
  11. Jim, Jason and Mort thank you, again for your support! Wanted to pre-shape all the yards of the ship. Giving a rectangular shape to the mid-section of each dowel and planking it with walnut thin planks was so easy. I liked Jason's technique so I decided to follow that way even with 4mm dowels...
  12. Hi guys. I'mo about to drill the 1,5 mm holes at the base of the topmast and topgallant mast to pass at a later stage the 1,5x1,5 walnut strip fid dowel. The instructions call for drilling the hole at a height of 10 mm from the bottom of each dowel but when i'm looking the plan i'm measuring the height at 6 mm.... Do you consider that difference as a basic/critical for the next steps and what's the "right height" for that hole? Thank you. Stergios
  13. Shaping thοse 4mm dowels for the upper 1/3 of the masts is a really nightmare. After 3 efforts and additional broken dowels, the 4th try was succesive...
  14. Finally the walnut dowels arrived at home... I'm trying to establish the best orientation especially to have both rectangular edges at the same planes. Those custom made pencil markers are so helpfull...
  15. ...waiting for the aftermarket walnut dowels for the middle and upper 1/3 of the masts (and why not, for the yards too...).
  16. Hi Jim. At this step, you mean that you have sanded down a bit the hole of the deck from the side (right) of the mast tilt? Thanks
  17. Cheers Jason. Wish you the best for your next in progress beauty. I'm totally sure about the excellent final result. Stergios
  18. Hi Jason, glad to see you back and thank you! As far as your model, have you use walnut aftermarket dowels for the middle and upper stems of the fore and mainmast? Thanks again.
  19. There is a slight deviation of the mainmast (I think...) to the right. Any idea on how to fix it? I've already fixed the mast-base rings on the deck...
  20. Vasileios has posted me a couple of photos illustrating the in black and yellow ochre of all the parts of the masts of Victory. Jim has painted this way his model. I still have the tendency to leave the upper parts unpainted just for better matching with the bulwarks, but I'm debating myshelf between the dowels of the kit and the aftermarket's walnut...
  21. Thank you Mort, I've covered her outer bulwarks with a walnut-like varnish and I'm thinking to use walnut dowel for the unpainted parts of the rest of the masts to match the bulwarks outer color. I'm seeing that Jason has used walnut parts too, but I'm not so sure which option is more historically suitable... Thanks.
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