JerryTodd

Print a few more stock figures, but only 7 came out. 

In the meantime I altered a couple of others; I put straw hats on two, and changed a rammer to a sponger.
 
I apparently made the brims too thin, and they didn't print well, so I made new brims from paper, and painted them in resin from the printer, then zapped them with UV to plasticize them.

 
Painting then commenced on this batch of 15 crew who will all be in white jumpers.
 
 
I got to fiddling with the davits again by mocking up a brace with chipboard; thinking that would work, applied it to the 3D model, as well as putting a proper double-block on the end, with a ring.

I printed a pair to test, and 6 hours later, I'm pretty happy with the results.
 

Great, I could use some motivation 

It's been some time since the last post but with other large projects like the dinghy finished here's an update.
After the frames sitting around for about a year as I dithered over how to fit internal components that were a long way down the track it was a case of just doing something rather than overthinking the project and suffering decision paralysis.
So, the frames were cut and assembled with the keel on the building jig. 
 
Below is a test fit before glue with the frame interiors still solid. These were hollowed out before assembly.

 
The stern gallery frame has been assembled. This involved a lot of thought and trial and error due to the vagaries of transferring a 2D plan into a three dimensional shape.  I worked on the theory that as long as I had fixed and known points at the taffrail (The building board base) and accurate gallery window voids (created with temporary spacer blocks) the rest should follow.  
 
 

Fairing of the hull framing followed, with some blocks at bow and stern the help with the plank fit. 
 

After adding upper and lower gunport sills planking is now underway. I'll double plank the hull to give a solid base for the more tidy second planking. 
I'm using Douglas Fir left over from the mast build on my sailing dinghy and will use matai for the visible portions of the second planking to take advantage of the nice honey tone and hardness. The bottom will likely be coppered anyway. 
I'll add a layer of wales as I get closer to them and the upper bulwarks will likely had a 1.5mm ply first layer rather than planking, allowing gunports to be cut and lined easily. 

The lines are starting to appear. 

Thank you druxey for the addition, very appreciated! I already realised while building that the way of simply putting a block underneath the stretcher is not sufficiant. I already found ways of fixing the strechers the same way as the thwarts in some plans in contemporary plans in RMG. Also here a modern model I photographed in an exhibition in Rochefort in 2018. Unfortunately I can´t read the name of the maker any more.
 
 

Print a few more stock figures, but only 7 came out. 

In the meantime I altered a couple of others; I put straw hats on two, and changed a rammer to a sponger.
 
I apparently made the brims too thin, and they didn't print well, so I made new brims from paper, and painted them in resin from the printer, then zapped them with UV to plasticize them.

 
Painting then commenced on this batch of 15 crew who will all be in white jumpers.
 
 
I got to fiddling with the davits again by mocking up a brace with chipboard; thinking that would work, applied it to the 3D model, as well as putting a proper double-block on the end, with a ring.

I printed a pair to test, and 6 hours later, I'm pretty happy with the results.
 

Print a few more stock figures, but only 7 came out. 

In the meantime I altered a couple of others; I put straw hats on two, and changed a rammer to a sponger.
 
I apparently made the brims too thin, and they didn't print well, so I made new brims from paper, and painted them in resin from the printer, then zapped them with UV to plasticize them.

 
Painting then commenced on this batch of 15 crew who will all be in white jumpers.
 
 
I got to fiddling with the davits again by mocking up a brace with chipboard; thinking that would work, applied it to the 3D model, as well as putting a proper double-block on the end, with a ring.

I printed a pair to test, and 6 hours later, I'm pretty happy with the results.
 

While I figure out how to deal with installing the metal braces the support the pin-rails on the bulwarks, I got my brain into something else; painting the crew figures
I'm using acrylics, but while I have half-a-dozen "flesh tones," I didn't have any white, black, or blue, so I ordered some and set about painting hands and faces.  That wasn't much, but it did make a big change from the shadows they used to be. 

Sunday the paint arrived and I got right to it, based mostly on these images, only one is actually IDed as American.
 
I painted about half the figures I have, including Ivan*, who's gonna remain "clean shaven" from here on.
  
I ordered more paint for a few hair colors, and things like casks, and buckets.
 
* Ivan's explained back in post #49

The port-side screen is in, laced-up, and both got painted inside-and-out.  I have to put in the seats, and some gratings to be "done."
 
But the sheer runs the full length of the boat now.

And I was also finally able to finish the capstans.

All the parts had been in the making since well into last year, but I never really had the chance to finish them. Basic programming strictly according to plan is always done quickly, but until the look of the printout refreshes my eyes and heart in terms of model making, it takes a few more rounds of printing, tinkering and improving, version #15 is the normal case here.

Here is an intermediate version, the brass tubes have now been replaced. Still mising are the bevels on the wedges below the ribs, which allow the rope to slide smoothly from round to pentagonal or hexagonal. I take such pre-prints for color samples, and lo and behold, it looked stupid in this color scheme.

Here is already the penultimate version. [Note to self: HOPEFULLY!] Good enough for a prototype. [Note to self: HOPEFULLY!]
And what do I always say? Before applying the aging, a clean base coat must be applied. Here you go.


And then life gets in: The wood starts to show at all the rubbing points of the rope on the drums. After several tests, I decided on a non-covering drybrush, which gets across most of what I would have liked to show.


And someone else has bombed into the picture: The capstan bars ...



... to match the capstan.


I made a template for alignment, using corrugated cardboard as a base to sink the upper part of the drum into and bring the spars to paper height ...


... bars inserted into the capstan and the capstan inserted upside down ...


... bars aligned and glued.



Then the swifter is pulled in and that's it.




And here are the individual parts, the middle piece is available in two heights, depending on how the battery deck is fitted with gratings.





XXXDAn

And the pumps were also due.  


First the elm tree pump. There is a protective bracket to protect the handle and the two through-pipes for the two lower decks are also included. In order not to have a pinch-off point, the handle was printed free-flying, diameter 0.5 mm x 0.5 mm. It came out straight, but when washed in acetone it bent uniformly on all prints. It's better to make a connection at the top for the next print in the hope of minimizing warping during washing.

Therefore, a glass of hot water, briefly dipped in ...



... kept in shape while cooling down and - tata ! - everything is straight again 🙂



Here is the comparison picture. So never cold bend resin, it works wonderfully with heat!

Then I discovered that I had made a 0.15 mm hole in the 0.5 mm x 0.5 mm handle.



Checked the passage with a wire ...



... and pulled in a rope. It actually really worked 🙂
The wooden clamp is not a standard one but a mini clamp ;-)

And the chain pumps have also arrived.

XXXDAn

It has now been 4.5 months since the big modeling show in Evian France. Since then, my Sleeping Beauty has been lying in her box in the camper van, as I haven't had the time to kiss and wake her nor the space on the work table to lay her down gently.    This weekend I finally pricked up my lips and gave her a really nice wake-up kiss 🙂   And I took the opportunity to take a few beauty shots and compare 1803 and 1910 🙂     Is this now considered to be out of box?  
 
  I also took the opportunity to take a closer look at the new bow. It was based on the three-deckers built between 1800 and 1805. The bowsprit is now also anchored one deck higher.     One side is still a bit rough 😉   Hope you like it!   XXXDAn

One feature on my list of major changes are the decks: That I am not a fan any more of the wood structures I mentioned already, didn´t I ? 
 
;-)
 
Consequentely this applied for the deck planking too - off course!
 
The idea is to replace the visible decks by real wood: Painted wood in plastic, visible woob in real wood. Tests were carried out to find the suitable technic and hre are the results:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
So I can easily show the 3- and 4-but-shift system for the planking including the waterway, whitch will be a great addition to the detailing :-)
 
I think, the two materials work great together and give a nice feeling to the ensemble :-) Looking already forewards for the first visible deck.
 
This addition of materials would also apply to the masts and spars, whitch by the way will replace the too flexible plastic parts of the top rigging
 
Be warned: There are a lot of questions upon the deck planking coming up :-)

All the figures I have are now painted.  Not my best work, but I'm not my best self anymore either  😕
I think I got a decent shade for the Black fella,and the rest are the darkest "fleshtone" I have without darken it more.
I need to modify several poses to get men climbing the rig, standing on foot-ropes. sitting, squatting, and so on.  Also, I want to put straw hats on a few  I also have one officer to try to work into 3 or 4 poses.
Then there's the Marines, I want 6 or 8 in different poses standing and sitting on the main hatch cleaning their gear.
  

All the figures I have are now painted.  Not my best work, but I'm not my best self anymore either  😕
I think I got a decent shade for the Black fella,and the rest are the darkest "fleshtone" I have without darken it more.
I need to modify several poses to get men climbing the rig, standing on foot-ropes. sitting, squatting, and so on.  Also, I want to put straw hats on a few  I also have one officer to try to work into 3 or 4 poses.
Then there's the Marines, I want 6 or 8 in different poses standing and sitting on the main hatch cleaning their gear.
  

Welcome aboard!

Greetings, I have finally decided to join this forum after years of wanting to dip my toes into wood modeling. I have been in the plastic modeling scene since I was a kid and have finished quite a few plastic ship models, but for some reason it has never occurred to me to actually build wooden ships until this year. I have already finished the Model Shipway's Lowell Grand Banks Dory kit and is currently rigging up the 18th century long boat kit. I also have a Billing Boats Norske Love kit in my stash that I am hoping to start soon after learning the ropes with these two kits. 

While I figure out how to deal with installing the metal braces the support the pin-rails on the bulwarks, I got my brain into something else; painting the crew figures
I'm using acrylics, but while I have half-a-dozen "flesh tones," I didn't have any white, black, or blue, so I ordered some and set about painting hands and faces.  That wasn't much, but it did make a big change from the shadows they used to be. 

Sunday the paint arrived and I got right to it, based mostly on these images, only one is actually IDed as American.
 
I painted about half the figures I have, including Ivan*, who's gonna remain "clean shaven" from here on.
  
I ordered more paint for a few hair colors, and things like casks, and buckets.
 
* Ivan's explained back in post #49

The port-side screen is in, laced-up, and both got painted inside-and-out.  I have to put in the seats, and some gratings to be "done."
 
But the sheer runs the full length of the boat now.

I bent and soldered some 1/16" brass rod in a jig made of scraps to make frames for the spray-screens.  The jig didn't fair well, but the frames came out fine.

I flattened the legs to give a better glue surface, and bent them to the needed angle.  They got installed in the head with CA, and then I a coat of 5-minute epoxy over them.

I cut some gray Supplex from the 2 yards I have for Macedonian's sails; glued and hemmed in strips of wood for the bottom, and the aft end, using the 3D printed version to get the angle and length right.  The bottom was CAed to the head-rail and the aft end to the hull.  The loose portion was pulled over the frame and CAed in place.
  
Once I get the other side to this point, I'll lace them to the frame with Dacron sail thread and brush on another coat of paint.
 
In the painting I'm basing the model on, of the ship in Naples in 1856 by Tamoso de Simone, the ship's at anchor with her boats away, so this is how her quarter-boat davits are show.

I have yet to find a painting, a photo, or a model that depicts this style of davit.  My previous try was nothing like this, so I tried again and wound up with this:
 
These didn't print well, two of them actually failed completely, but there's enough here to see if they look right.  I'm satisfied they look like the silhouettes in the painting, and that's about it.  There's no tackle going into the rig for raising or lowering them.  I assume they rotate in sockets on their bases and probably have some sort of brace attached to the bulwark, cause just sitting on the channel isn't going to hold them up; also I can't see in the painting that they extend below the channel to be supported by the hull.  Fortunately, davits will be about the last thing that gets installed, so I have time to ponder this some more before then.
 

The port-side screen is in, laced-up, and both got painted inside-and-out.  I have to put in the seats, and some gratings to be "done."
 
But the sheer runs the full length of the boat now.

That 'acorn' is probably a ring bolt for the chain stays; certainly that is what they are in the 'Victoria' - the davits look very, very similar.   I have been trying to adapt some soft metal ones with no luck.  Are these resin prints?
 
cheers
 
Pat

On real blocks the strop is a long-spliced loop of line.  The seizing that tightens the strop around the block also pinches off the eyes/beckets.   The upper block in your image would have a becket at either end, the lower block would have a single becket and get attached to the traveler via a shackle or ring.  The upper block would be lashed to the boom and there would usually be a couple of cleats on the boom to keep it in place.
 
When I make beckets, cringles, etc; I hold the eye open with a round toothpick, dowell, etc, depending on the size of the eye, and seize between the block and becket(s) with enough turns to make everything snug.

I bent and soldered some 1/16" brass rod in a jig made of scraps to make frames for the spray-screens.  The jig didn't fair well, but the frames came out fine.

I flattened the legs to give a better glue surface, and bent them to the needed angle.  They got installed in the head with CA, and then I a coat of 5-minute epoxy over them.

I cut some gray Supplex from the 2 yards I have for Macedonian's sails; glued and hemmed in strips of wood for the bottom, and the aft end, using the 3D printed version to get the angle and length right.  The bottom was CAed to the head-rail and the aft end to the hull.  The loose portion was pulled over the frame and CAed in place.
  
Once I get the other side to this point, I'll lace them to the frame with Dacron sail thread and brush on another coat of paint.
 
In the painting I'm basing the model on, of the ship in Naples in 1856 by Tamoso de Simone, the ship's at anchor with her boats away, so this is how her quarter-boat davits are show.

I have yet to find a painting, a photo, or a model that depicts this style of davit.  My previous try was nothing like this, so I tried again and wound up with this:
 
These didn't print well, two of them actually failed completely, but there's enough here to see if they look right.  I'm satisfied they look like the silhouettes in the painting, and that's about it.  There's no tackle going into the rig for raising or lowering them.  I assume they rotate in sockets on their bases and probably have some sort of brace attached to the bulwark, cause just sitting on the channel isn't going to hold them up; also I can't see in the painting that they extend below the channel to be supported by the hull.  Fortunately, davits will be about the last thing that gets installed, so I have time to ponder this some more before then.
 

I bent and soldered some 1/16" brass rod in a jig made of scraps to make frames for the spray-screens.  The jig didn't fair well, but the frames came out fine.

I flattened the legs to give a better glue surface, and bent them to the needed angle.  They got installed in the head with CA, and then I a coat of 5-minute epoxy over them.

I cut some gray Supplex from the 2 yards I have for Macedonian's sails; glued and hemmed in strips of wood for the bottom, and the aft end, using the 3D printed version to get the angle and length right.  The bottom was CAed to the head-rail and the aft end to the hull.  The loose portion was pulled over the frame and CAed in place.
  
Once I get the other side to this point, I'll lace them to the frame with Dacron sail thread and brush on another coat of paint.
 
In the painting I'm basing the model on, of the ship in Naples in 1856 by Tamoso de Simone, the ship's at anchor with her boats away, so this is how her quarter-boat davits are show.

I have yet to find a painting, a photo, or a model that depicts this style of davit.  My previous try was nothing like this, so I tried again and wound up with this:
 
These didn't print well, two of them actually failed completely, but there's enough here to see if they look right.  I'm satisfied they look like the silhouettes in the painting, and that's about it.  There's no tackle going into the rig for raising or lowering them.  I assume they rotate in sockets on their bases and probably have some sort of brace attached to the bulwark, cause just sitting on the channel isn't going to hold them up; also I can't see in the painting that they extend below the channel to be supported by the hull.  Fortunately, davits will be about the last thing that gets installed, so I have time to ponder this some more before then.
 

A little more to report.  I have been experimenting to determine the best jig to solder these tiny pieces together.  The following show a very rough version of what I think I will try.  The principle seems OK but the jig needs a little 'finagling' and then to be remade in a denser wood before I dare attempt any soldering.  The brass PE parts have had holes drilled to accept the through mast bolts, but as is obvious, they need a lot more clean-up yet  
 
I am open to ideas to modify this jig before committing so please have at it.  The general idea is create 2 slots held in place at the width of the masthead flats.  The rim, which has yet to have the fore part of the rim soldered to it (see much earlier posts on this) then sits on top of them, and, after centering it, will somehow be held in place so that it does not move - I am still trying to sort that bit.  The final shot shows how it will be held in my soldering station when I get around to soldering.  
 
Then I have to think about how to put on the crosstrees with the iron rod (brass) stays pre-attached to the cross trees and the futtock band... but, that is a problem for 'future Pat' as the saying goes.
 
cheers
 
Pat