JerryTodd

A long time ago, the Naval Academy had the Macedonian figurehead scanned to create a 3D model.  The people that did the scan found my, and my Macedonian model and offer to 3D print one for me for $250.  I couldn't justify $250 for a 2 inch tall bit of plastic, so I declined.
Years later, having my own 3D printer, I contacted these people hoping to may get a file I could accurately scale and print.  They replied after several attempt to contact them, that they could not distribute the file because it was US Navy property.  Then I found it posted on a public site, not downloadable, and with no contact information.
Still there: https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/usna-macedonian-monument-uwSAs3DI5gtIRlQtrtFYfUcJbp6
 
Constellation's been without her head ornamentation for some time now.  Figuring they're looking to replace it with reproductions and would have it scanned much how the USNA did with Macedonian's figurehead, I contacted Historic Ships Baltimore to inquire if that's the case, if so, was there a chance of getting copies of the files, and explained why I was asking.  In short, the answer was "I don't know, but I presume NO."
 
Out of curiosity, I checked my bookmarks to see if the Macedonian figurehead was still on SketchFab, and it was.  Interestingly, on the right column was a "Billet_head" posted by the same Direct Dimensions only a month ago!
Well if it isn't a scan of Constellation's billet-head, but wait, there's more... Going to their Sketchfab page, to see all their 3D model uploads, I found scans of Constellation's trail-boards!  None of this is downloadable, and there's still no contact information, so...
Billet-head: https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/billet--head-3mill-mm-d1422e4df6454a3dbea26ea5058d7109
Trail-boards: https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/us-constellation-filligree-43b0610e75c5460ea3661a33b92a79ec
 
There's functionality in the Blender software to basically make a contour model from a shaded image, just like these.  I hope using the best screen-shots I could manage will allow me to use that feature to finally produce Constellation's head ornamentation.

A long time ago, the Naval Academy had the Macedonian figurehead scanned to create a 3D model.  The people that did the scan found my, and my Macedonian model and offer to 3D print one for me for $250.  I couldn't justify $250 for a 2 inch tall bit of plastic, so I declined.
Years later, having my own 3D printer, I contacted these people hoping to may get a file I could accurately scale and print.  They replied after several attempt to contact them, that they could not distribute the file because it was US Navy property.  Then I found it posted on a public site, not downloadable, and with no contact information.
Still there: https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/usna-macedonian-monument-uwSAs3DI5gtIRlQtrtFYfUcJbp6
 
Constellation's been without her head ornamentation for some time now.  Figuring they're looking to replace it with reproductions and would have it scanned much how the USNA did with Macedonian's figurehead, I contacted Historic Ships Baltimore to inquire if that's the case, if so, was there a chance of getting copies of the files, and explained why I was asking.  In short, the answer was "I don't know, but I presume NO."
 
Out of curiosity, I checked my bookmarks to see if the Macedonian figurehead was still on SketchFab, and it was.  Interestingly, on the right column was a "Billet_head" posted by the same Direct Dimensions only a month ago!
Well if it isn't a scan of Constellation's billet-head, but wait, there's more... Going to their Sketchfab page, to see all their 3D model uploads, I found scans of Constellation's trail-boards!  None of this is downloadable, and there's still no contact information, so...
Billet-head: https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/billet--head-3mill-mm-d1422e4df6454a3dbea26ea5058d7109
Trail-boards: https://sketchfab.com/3d-models/us-constellation-filligree-43b0610e75c5460ea3661a33b92a79ec
 
There's functionality in the Blender software to basically make a contour model from a shaded image, just like these.  I hope using the best screen-shots I could manage will allow me to use that feature to finally produce Constellation's head ornamentation.

Just a quick update....here she is with the coaming and cockpit painted.   There will be a trim strip around the outside of the coaming so I was not too diligent about a perfect taping job.  Next is the seat and tiller, then enclose the cabin.

Thanks for the likes and the comments, and thanks for the patience.  I am back to working some on the Friendship sloop after doing some traveling then finishing a side project which you can see here: 
 
On the sloop, I have done the vertical planking of the inside of the cockpit coaming, then I taped it up in preparation for paint (and yes I sanded it some after taking the first picture).  I plan to paint the inside and outside of the coaming white, then I will tape over that and paint the inside of the cockpit gray.  I plan to use the air brush for the white paint though it is a bit awkward as this model is too large for my little spray booth.  I have some rattle can gray that I'll use for the inside of the cockpit and likely take the boat outside to do that.
 

 

A little more progress.....I have planked the cockpit floor.   I also did a paper template of the seat and test fit that.   I have not decided what, if anything, to do with the bulkhead at the front of the cockpit.  The kit instructions do not seem to address it....maybe plank it vertically or horizontally or just paint it.  I've also dug out a couple old tins of stain and done a bit of testing to try to figure out which to use on the deck, cockpit floor, and seat.   Though I am not yet sure.
 

Another quick update.  I've completed the deck planking and did a rough cut around the outside and inside edges.   I did a little sanding of the outside edges but have more to do.  Oh, I also cut out the hole for the mast as you can see.
 

Ok, I have declared the hull painting done and I have mounted the hull to the baseboard.   The baseboard is reused from an abandoned build of the model shipways Niagara.  The cradles are included in the Friendship Sloop kit.  They are laser cut mahogany which I sanded down a bit to round off the corners and finished with a tung oil finish.   Pay no attention to the box in the back left corner of the table.  That is definitely not another side project that I started 😁
 

Ok, one more round of sanding and priming.  I swear I am done this time.  I'll let it cure a day or two then do some light sanding, draw a waterline, and add some color.  I bought two more rattle cans of paint....and off white for the top sides and a dark green for the bottom of the hull.
 

Just about ready for another coat of primer.  I hope it will be the last but don't know for sure.
 
 

Put ledgers, clamps, cleats, or whatever term is correct in this situation, in the head and made new templates from chipboard
  
From which I modeled and printed new grates.These had a tendency to try to curl, so I attached wood strips to the underside to resist that. They then got primed and painted.
   
There's vertical rub rails on the hull's side.  In the 1856 portrait, I con only verify 3 at the main hatch, though more show up in photos from 1879 on, when she carried more boats as a training ship.  I'm only adding the three per side I can verify.

These were cut to shape to fit the hull, rather than try to spring a straight stick into place, and pinned with 1/16" brass rod; then they got some quick paint.
 
The hull will get a proper paint job just before the chain-plates get installed.

Put ledgers, clamps, cleats, or whatever term is correct in this situation, in the head and made new templates from chipboard
  
From which I modeled and printed new grates.These had a tendency to try to curl, so I attached wood strips to the underside to resist that. They then got primed and painted.
   
There's vertical rub rails on the hull's side.  In the 1856 portrait, I con only verify 3 at the main hatch, though more show up in photos from 1879 on, when she carried more boats as a training ship.  I'm only adding the three per side I can verify.

These were cut to shape to fit the hull, rather than try to spring a straight stick into place, and pinned with 1/16" brass rod; then they got some quick paint.
 
The hull will get a proper paint job just before the chain-plates get installed.

FYI: The miter-cut "flying jib" (jib), where the panels meet at a 90° diagonally across the sail, did not come into use until the late 1860s.  There may have been a "miter-band", or reinforcing cloth across the sail over the panels in line with the pull of the sheets, but the sail would have otherwise been cut the same as the "jib" (forestays'l) they show.

At the same time, work continued on the boats, especially on the 32-foot launch.

The nice thing about printing is that you can simply repeat, so suddenly there were 4 hulls in front of me. What am I supposed to do with them again?


The little devilish voice inside me then came immediately: Build it! Build it!

Well, that's the way it happened.


Here are the 4 steps of the interior: Priming black to prevent flashes, dark brown for the inner body, thin black ink for depth and usage, and white drybrush to bring out the textures again.

On the other hand, I painted the interior parts with a lighter shade of brown, inked and brushed them to emphasise them a little. It could also have been interpreted as different wood.

But when I looked at it ...



... and compared it with the first launch at the front in a completely lighter colour ...

... it looked too much like a toy to me, and the dafi had to do what it does best - tear it down! - and everything flew out again ...


... and the inside of the boats has been coloured lighter. Fits much better now http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif


Here is a picture showing how the barrels fit - that's easily over 7 tonnes of weight -, in the middle the rowing version, and the third one still without thwarts , where you can see the height of the stretchers above the inner floor. Then you can also see that the rowers' feet would otherwise have been hanging in the air and intensive pulling would not have been so successful.

So that I don't always get the thwarts mixed up, I have given them markings on the underside. The stretchers too, by the way.

XXXDAn

A small update.  I built up the area at the bow.

And also addressed the issues with the stern.  Have a look at my last update to see what was wrong.
 
I needed to add a thin strip along the edge that would add enough material so that the entirety of the stern would be smoothly rounded.  Since I already had the shape of the stern in Fusion, I created and 3D printed a piece to use to form the strip.  A 1/16" x 1/16" strip was soaked until it became flexible, then it was bend around the 3D printed piece and allowed to dry.

After gluing the piece on, adding some filler, and sanding, the stern now has a nice shape.

I have finally got Diana settled in her new home.
I was planning to make a case out of acrylic sheet but I found a local supplier of aquariums who was prepared to make a case. The cost was about the same as I could have bought the acrylic sheet so there was nothing to think about really
Jungle Pets of Buxton, Derbyshire (junglepets.co.uk) made the case in 6mm glass and delivered it a while ago but I have been waiting for a piece of furniture on which to place it. This was delivered earlier in the week.
With me in the role of supervisor, my daughter and partner – much younger, fitter and stronger than me, manoeuvred the case into position over the ship and onto the baseboard without mishap. We breathed a sigh of relief.


I guess this is really the end of the Story of Diana for me.
Thanks again to all those who have followed, commented and given advice
 
David

Thanks again for all the likes and generous comments.
 
Diana is the biggest and most complicated ship that I have built but I've really enjoyed the challenges that it presented. Although it took a lot of time and some hair pulling, I'm glad that I went with the open rails on the quarter deck and my thanks go to Ray and Robdurant for showing me the way. Also my thanks to the many others on these forums that have posted tips, help and advice that I have shamelessly copied.
 
I've managed to take some better photos of the finished model which I've added below. I hope I haven't overdone it!
 










 
Thanks all for looking in. I hope to see you again on my log of HM Cutter Trial
 
David
 
 

I see that it’s been over a month since I last posted an update but there’s been a lot going on over the summer with holidays and things to do in the garden. I had two weeks on a birding trip in Brasil in the last half of July which resulted in 1500 photos to go through – making progress but still not finished.
In between times I have been doing some work on Diana, mostly tidying up but after much procrastination and with full approval from my wife, I have mounted the remaining ships boats.


I made a star decoration for the catheads using styrene rod and strip (with acknowledgement to B.E. for his method and description in his Pegasus blog).


A pair of Chris Watton’s stern lanterns have been fitted. The lanterns are mounted on brackets formed from 1mm brass rod soldered and then blacked.


Last but not least, my daughter, who has a much steadier hand than I, painted the ensign and union jack on tissue paper which I have steamed into shape and hung. The flag dimensions were taken from a copy of Flags for Ship Modellers by Alec Purves. A range of sizes is given for the period and I chose what seemed the most in proportion to the ship, that is scale 128x67mm for the ensign and 43x24mm for the jack. AotS Diana lists an ensign staff of some 35’ but I imagined this getting in the way of the boom so have raised the ensign on a halyard from the gaff. The jack staff is 15’5” or scale 73mm but this was a little short for my flag so I have increased the length to 80mm.





Several repairs to rigging have had to be made owing to my clumsiness when manoeuvring the ship and I also damaged one of the stern lights. I am waiting a replacement from Vanguard Models. At the same time I have taken the opportunity of ordering my next project, HM Cutter Trial. I’m now eagerly awaiting delivery from UPS.
 
I now need to make a display case to keep Diana safe from further damage and dust. A glass case of the required size about 1280x850x500mm is going to be very heavy and expensive so I’m planning to make one using acrylic sheet but I’m not sure what thickness of sheet to use. I was thinking 5mm but perhaps I can get away with thinner. If anyone has any experience of cases in acrylic, I be interested to hear your thoughts.
 
I’ll write something of a conclusion on the build and post some better photos of the finished ship when I have been able to set up a suitable backdrop. In the meantime thanks to everyone who has been following this blog and for all the encouragement, help and support that you have given me over the last two and a half years.
 
David

There's not much model building going on at the moment.
Summer, house building for juniors, gardening, and so on...
So here's a quick summer lull filler😁
 
Note on the routing of the lower yard lifts
The following topic will be familiar to many experienced model builders who have already rigged a historic sailing ship, and it’s been discussed in this forum before.
On my corvette, the same phenomenon appeared when belaying the lifts of the unbraced foreyard, as shown in the photo below:

The lifts lightly touch the forward topmast shrouds. Since this might unsettle some beginners, I’ll briefly summarize why this happens.
Lifts are usually led from the center of the mast cap -i.e. behind the topmast- out to the yard arms. The foreyard hangs in front of the lower mast, and so lies beneath the topmast. In side view, the forward topmast shrouds run verticaly up from the lower mast to the topmast head.
Because of this geometry, the lower yard lifts inevitably come into contact with the forward topmast shrouds even when the yard is unbraced, and certainly when it’s braced in. Accordingly, the forward topmast shrouds are always served against chafe.
This is not an error; it’s simply a result of the rigging’s geometry and layout.

The crew got some touch up, and I tried a "wash" on them which wasn't all I hoped it would be, but I kept it and gave the a couple of coats of clear-coat.
Ivan's blue uniform was certainly slimming, he's looking quite Stan Laurel-ish in white.
 
I made a pattern for the head gratings from chip-board, scanned it and used the image to make 3D models. Went away for the weekend, and printed them when I got home.
I need to install cleats (like seat cleats in a boat) for them to sit on along the spray-screens and hull. Then I can more accurately see how the shape may need adjusting, which may mean printing again, which didn't use much resin, but did take 4 hours.
 

Been awhile since the last posting. These entries are from February of 2025:
 
 
MICHAEL ORGEL, MD (AKA Dr. Mike)
Some sad news to report: Our friend and long-term fellow shipmodeler Mike Orgel (Dr. Mike) died recently. He led a colorful life, being a physician, veteran (flight surgeon), and one who definitely knew his way around a machine shop, having worked in one on a residency in cardiology; he was inventor/co-inventor of several important medical devices, including a heart valve. Dr. Mike was involved in the USS St. Louis project from the beginning, and was a significant contributor, helping to fashion the paddlewheel and other complicated fixtures. He was also an avid cyclist and intimately involved in R/C planes Even at age 86, Dr. Mike still had a crushing handshake, a wide-ranging curiosity, and an associated ability and could talk excitedly and deeply about a variety of topics. And just an all-around good guy. You will be missed, Dr. Mike. Calm seas, fair winds.
 

 
Officer Figurines, Continued (Bill Kammermeyer)
 

Figures at work before attaching the Hurricane Deck 
 

Officers doing map conference BK/VM 12/10/24
 

Crewman working on 8-inch smooth bore. BK 12/11/24
 

Crewman with rope BK 12/13/24
 

Crewman standing on tool chest making adjustments BK 12/27/24
 

Officer giving tech instructions BK 12/14/24
 

Officer checking on food preparation BK 12/13/1SS
 

USS St. Louis and CSA Hunley Figures
 

USS St. Louis crewmember working with rope. BK 1/31/25
 

Hunley quay figures and resting USS St. Louis crewmen on Crates. BK 1/31/25
 

Hunley dock workers and officers. One on right carries a new signal flag. BK 1/31/25
 
 

Army crew for 13" mortars. More may be made for USS St. Louis at time of transition to the Navy. BK 1/13/25
 
More figurines for Bob Keeler's Mortar Barge, a companion project to the USS St. Louis:
 

 


 

 

 
 
MAKING CRATES FOR DECK INTEREST
 

Part of the 28 chests and boxes I built around pine cores with pear and cherry planks, cut to 0.05" on my new Byrnes 4" Micro Table Saw. What a joy! Great cuts with no need to sand. In fact, I wet the surface of each to raise the grain a bit so they did not appear to be furniture. A nice sawn look was achieved. BK 1/13/25
 

The 0.05" planks were glued to the ends and one side of the block and sanded to the block. The other side, and then the top, were added between sandings. Penny for scale BK 1/14/25
 

Boxes were stained with driftwood stain and dry brushed with flat gray. Holes were drilled in the ends for rope handles. Scale rope I made was stiffened with super glue, cut to length and bent around a rod, then glued in the holes, and bent down. BK 1/14/25
 

Onion skin printed labels were added for deck interest. Hail heads were suggested with 36 to 50 indents with a sharp awl. BK 1/14/25
 
COVERING SCREW HEADS
 

Screws attaching the edge work are all covered save two. Those will each have a coil of rope on them. It should look like a working ship. BK 1/14/25
 

 
 

That's all for now. This project is about 99% completed and ready for transportation to the Missouri Civil War Museum. Unfortunatley, the Museum has sustained water damage from recent storms, which has delayed all of their functions. When the installation occurs, I'll be posting some pictures, also of any further progress on the project itself.
 
Tim Jovick
314-761-5435
 

And once again I've made a mistake. This drawing from 1815 shows the loading of the large launch with barrels of drinking water.



And so, of course, I had to know how big the barrels were in order to put them in my launch. These large barrels are so-called Leaguers with the equivalent of 480 liters. So with wood, they weigh over half a ton. And then 14 of them in the boat, making well over 7 tons.

The research was somewhat difficult, as the volumes are often mentioned, but not the exact dimensions. In the meantime, I have researched the sizes of the whole family more or less reliably, so that I was able to start on the models.

Here are the 3 sizes for the model: Leaguer 480 liters, Puncheon 318 liters, Hogshead 200 liters and a small powder keg. Each in three parts, as I don't want the supports to be visible as usual.



Family picture with avatar.



And after priming and inking came the challenge: blackening the hoops.





At the back right was with the brush. On a good day, I get a few hoops, but then it's all over. Okay, that wasn't a particularly good day anyway. So I tried the back left with a felt-tip pen, which was better, but still uneven and above all an unpleasant metallic-reddish sheen.

And in front a completely different approach, because I remembered that the prints are made of black resin. I quickly tried to see if sanding the hoops worked, and lo and behold ...



... it works like a charm!



The powder keg was given its copper hoops and light-colored withy rings and joined the others. No iron hoops on purpose, because they could cause sparks and that would be really stupid. The copper is also nicely embedded between the withy rings so that it doesn't stick out. There are wonderful artifacts showing this, recovered from the HMS Invincible, which sank in 1758.

And that brings us very close to what I wanted 🙂

XXXDAn

Took three tries before the guns printed well in 1:100.  Using thicker supports seemed to do the trick.

I went back to the first version I started of this gun, with the taller carriage, to finish it.  I used plate #7 of LaFay's, which had measurements, rather than the model plans I had used.
 
Both are modeled in 1:36 scale and posted on Thingiverse.

Two of the delivered guns sitting on the model

le canon est complet!
Loaded in the slicer, re-scaled to 1:100, copied to make 7 tubes and carriages, sliced and sent to the printer.  Fingers are crossed!
 

le canon est complet!
Loaded in the slicer, re-scaled to 1:100, copied to make 7 tubes and carriages, sliced and sent to the printer.  Fingers are crossed!
 

The 'taller' block trail carriage is dimensioned as 989mm to the top of cheeks (526+323+140), while the 'longer, sleeker' one is a little over 940mm (890 +50 for the rise of the lower edge ahead of the truck -  it is 450mm above the breast). Both are for 22cm no1 guns of 1842, 1841 and for different vessels. I believe the taller carriage may be the standard 'tween decks' (lower battery) carriage, while the (very slightly) longer and lower one is intended for the spar deck of paddle steamers. As the model is a paddle steamer, this is likely to be the proper design, if not on a double pivot.