hexnut

The stand is made from mahogany with a brown stain. These photos show the stand and finished model and some of her friends.

And here is the original lofted lines drawing, huge difference in the bow

It is Raining once again here , So finish work will have to wait. It was however a great day to re-loft the 12 1/2 , and create a new lines drawing with the corrections . I feel alot more confident going into the next 12 1/2  Build with the new plans ( the Scale is 3/4" = 1' - 0" ) Here are the results

Thank you for the kind words all. I have completed the hull coppering, which, surprisingly looks very mirror-imaged from port to starboard. I am happy with it.  
 
I spent the free time today getting all the other parts organized for the remaining build. I also ordered some Testors grey primer for the Britannia Metal parts that I'll use. I still haven't decided upon scratch building some, most or all of them yet. I think I'll wait and see as the build progresses.   To get things organized, I am using a small plastic glass bead holder (found in the art store jewelry making section) for the blocks and other many small parts. I then gather and labeled all the wood with masking tape tags. Here we go!
 

 
and sorry this is a little blurry. You can see the VERY useful calculator and calipers for measuring the wood.
 

 
~john

This has been a productive week. Half of the hull is now coppered. There were some interesting moments, but there is one piece of wisdom here to make it all easier: it's just tape. Pull it off and start again if needed. ;-)  
Now to see if I can get the other side to look as good and in mirror image! 
 

 
 
~john
 
 

Hi All,
 
lets begin as promissed in my introduction post.
I started this build on May 2013 with few breakouts, due to other projects. As my first wooden ship build I decided to do it out of box. I finished the hull with only one layer of planking, becouse everything is painted and no natural wood is visible. 
 
If anyone wish to offer advice, please feel free to do so. It all helps and I would be very grateful.
 
 
 

The stand came with the kit.
 
 Bob R.

More pictures.  By the way, no power tools have been needed yet.
 
        Bob R.

As promised.  Two 8 hour marathon days of modeling on Saturday and Sunday.  It's starting to look like a boat.  I have to say, the parts are outstanding and the fit is great.
 
   Bob R.

A little update time as to what's going on ........ Well ,  I finally got started on the spiling process and I must say I really like it. The only real problem I ran into was finding the right pen that writes on the clear tape. Pencil did'nt work , so I ended up using a  Sharpie ultra fine , works
fairly good ( sometimes ) . This takes a little more time to do, but the end results are worth it. Here's a couple pictures showing the first couple planks at the bow.
 

this was the first plank set on the stbd. side
 
 

I don't know if you can see the tape laying across the frames, but it's there, you can't see where I traced the shape of the plank because the first pen I used was too light. but after tracing the shape, the whole tape was transfered to the basswood sheet and cut out with a sharp blade.Then a little shaping is done  to fit.
 
 

this shows the second plank set, ships curves came in real handy for drawing out planks shape, impossible to do without them (at least for me).
Well that's it for today, hoping to get a few more done tomorrow. Thanks for looking in.
 
Frank

Well here we go again.... another UPDATE!!!!....... I think I left off showing the first two planks being set, I've made some progress since then,
the first band is finished, port and starboard.  Before I started to do the planking I had ordered some basswood sheets from National Balsa.
While waiting for it to come in,I found  a  sheet of basswood that I had purchased from Michael's. ( 1/16thx 3 x24 ), so I thought I'd get a little head start before my  main supply came in. Well my supply came in and I started up again, I had finished 3 rows before I notice that National
Balsa's 1/16th  and Michael's 1/16th were a little off, just enough to p--- you off, so out came the alcohol, the removal was easy enough, I'm glad I did it, it looks better ( to me) I think once the planking is finished and the hull is sanded some, It should look OK . Another nice thing about spiling is that there 's not much room for fillers. I've been beveling one side of each plank that butts up to the previous one so they get a nice tight fit. Following are some pictures of the progress. By the way I highly recommend the spiling method for planking. I don't know what took me so long to try it...... FEAR!!!! :D
 
 
 
 
this is the second plank being fit on the first strake
 

 
 
you could never get this shape by just bending
 

 
the following just show planking to the end of the first band
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Well that's it for now folks..... Thanks for look'n in
 
Frank
 
 

I have been working on the yards a lot lately.  There is a lot more to do than I remember from my Victory Model 30 years ago.  I am trying to get as many blocks as I can on the yards before installing them.  As this ship will not have sails, I do not need the leech or bunt line blocks, so I will be leaving those off.  Everything attached to the yards needs to be served, and attached primarily with rose lashings (or a close approximation).  I made the slings as you can see, and I am making the trusses now (no photos of those yet).  I am also putting on shrouds at the top gallant to royal yards tressel tree.  I will post photos of how I attached them later.  I also made and sort of installed the spanker and gaff booms.
 
I apologize for the messy deck, I will vacuum it clean when I finish installing the yards.  Once the yards are done, I think all that is left is the anchor assemblies, the davits, and the ships boats???

This will be my first kit build log on MSW and my second wood boat build.  The Sakonnet Daysailer, a 1937 club "one-design" boat, designed by John G. Alden.
 
Joe

With the latest round of exams out of the way and a full weekend without chores, it was time again to return to the model shipyard with the goal of finishing off the bunks.
 
I laid the floor beams and then planked the floor area of the rear bunk house. With some rubber bands and “test sticks” I fiddled with the layout until it looked about right. 

 
The bunks are not a straight line, and the aftermost part of the bunk has a weird little dip in, so I tried just laying some sticks out to get an idea of how that would look as well.  I will also mention that the height of the bunks was set up such that two plank-widths on the edges would provide a nice little lip around the bunk.

 
The fore and after ends of the bunk beams were done in one shot, with the goal of being to saw out the middle part after everything was built up.  This would add rigidity when cutting and sawing on it, as well as assure the larboard and starboard bunks were aligned with each other.  Then the weird dip-section was end-glued.

 
It was cut short, a tiny support post fitted in place at the joint, then the length of the bunk beam  siderail was fitted and glued in place. You can see little posts holding the whole thing up.  There should be a little support post at every rib, and also support beams for the bunk planking, but that stuff will all be covered up, and without some serious destruction, would never be visible on the finished model.  Thus, I elected to omit. 

 
Here is a shot of the completed bunk framing, sans extra bunk beams and support posts.

 
The middle section of the end beams was then sawed out.  This building method was definitely beneficial; I highly recommend it.  I admit I got the idea from Chuck’s modeling of full plank-on-frame longboats and such where all the ribs have a beam that later gets broken out.
 
 
I then dry-fit the bunk planking, and settled on leaving a small gap on the outboard edge.  In real life, this would provide a nice place to drop your keys into the bilge.  Real boats are full of this kind of stuff . Someone remind me to model a small keyring in the bilge. 

 
All the planking was glued in.  I usually use just a tiny dot of glue on the ends, and nothing on the butt-edges of the neighboring plank.  This provides a very clean “joint” between adjacent deck planks.  The ends were then carefully shaved with a sharp hobby knife to the edge of the framing.

 
Here is a closeup of the jointery. I liked how it looked just like this a lot, and in real life such a setup would allow you to shove stuff under the bunk.  But I really wanted the edge lip around the bunks, so I settled on taking these photos and moving on.

 
Here is what the aft part with the weird cut out looks like.

 
At this point I was interrupted by a marathon in my front yard.  Undeterred, I continued working on the boat but did yell out the window from time to time. 

 
Edge planking was fit up, the ends scored, cut, and shaved to final dimension.

 
The starboard side is done, the larboard in progress.

 
Here is a photo of the lip on the bunk I worked so hard on.  The wetwell is in the background.

 
Finally, I took some of my wife’s makeup remover cotton pads and cut them to simulate mattresses. 

 
A parting shot with all the deck beams replaced, and the model as it currently sits. 

 
Happy building!
-craig
 

After putting on the turret I cut out and formed the funnel.  One of the tnigs I did was to cut out a piece of scrap and glued it to the bottom of the funnel.  This made for more gluing surface.


David B

After looking everything over I followed the same as before and assmbled the hull starting out with the backbone and then and then after assembling the turret I installed the gun deck.  

These were models designed by Magnus Mork.  I have found them interesting and fun.  They are a free download.
http://modelsnmoore.com/mmork.php
David B

I have decided to work on another civil war model.  The main reason for this is of course cost of the plans and I like the way they look.  The one I have in mind is the Lehigh.  The Lehigh was a Passaic Class monitor that was commissioned in 1863.  The Lehigh served in the navy off and on until 1898  untill it was decommissioned and sold in 1904.




This model seems it might be fun.
David B
 

So I remade the end after the other one broke and was too thick.  Still needs a bit of shaping but it lines up pretty well for planking (if I decide to plank there)
 

Windlass is going to take a while.  These parts are very small for my giant and clumsy hands. 
 

 

 
Here is the main hatch grating before final finish sanding.
 

Thanks David and Dave.  I actually think the clove hitches would be therapy compared to the issues I just had - but have to believe it is in the past and it is all rainbows and sunshine up ahead, hah hah.
 
Speaking of in the past I jumped into the prototype ship stand today to see some progress (and success).  This was a think of it as you go (other than the base measurement calculations).
 

 
It turned out more solid than I had thought.  I thought some outside rods for lateral movement support would be required but now don't think so.  It is configured for people looking at and through the upper decks to see the internal details.  And yes, the seamless acrylic case is on order.
 
The bottom stand will be painted black and I will probably substitute clear acrylic rods for the upright posts.
 
A little different but I like it.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark
 
P.S.  Now to get back to those other channels.....

más

más

puerta de cierre y llave

Today , I got the trim package stained ( rub rail & toe rail) I then painted the waterline on the Rudder ( Gloss White ) and the Spreaders ( flat White ) I installed the Rub rails first followed by the Toe rails , I then installed the fore and aft Cockpit trim . Then I was able to get 3 coats of Epifanes varnish on all the trim, Almost ready for rigging and Ballast.  Here are the results