jablackwell
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jablackwell got a reaction from thibaultron in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Mike: The great thing is that you can always slightly file or sand away the varnish where you need to glue. It works. You can also just spray the whole thing over when you are done.... that is one of the reasons I used a matte flat finish varnish.
Spaceman Spiff (love the name btw): Yep _ I completely understand your commentary. The scale is not exactly the best to do accurate colors in any way. The green is the actual zinc chromate color that has been found on some example WW1 and (definitely) WWII aircraft parts. I have omitted the firewall, which would hide the interior from view altogether. There is a lot of artistic work to bring out detail rather than to show accuracy. Anyway, all this is noted in my posts for my build (not here on Mike's build log). Trying not to hijack his log here ;-)
Best,
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from Canute in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Mike: The great thing is that you can always slightly file or sand away the varnish where you need to glue. It works. You can also just spray the whole thing over when you are done.... that is one of the reasons I used a matte flat finish varnish.
Spaceman Spiff (love the name btw): Yep _ I completely understand your commentary. The scale is not exactly the best to do accurate colors in any way. The green is the actual zinc chromate color that has been found on some example WW1 and (definitely) WWII aircraft parts. I have omitted the firewall, which would hide the interior from view altogether. There is a lot of artistic work to bring out detail rather than to show accuracy. Anyway, all this is noted in my posts for my build (not here on Mike's build log). Trying not to hijack his log here ;-)
Best,
~john
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jablackwell reacted to Mike Dowling in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
The thing is John, Carl, I remember having problems especially with boats before - getting CA to stick on a varnished surface. Anyway, I have been bold and ordered some spray on satin poly varnish for the wings etc. Got to be easier than trying to paint all those bits !
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jablackwell got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Hi Mike,
Pics of the prop for you. Counterclockwise rotation when viewing the nose of the craft (as if it was going to run you over ;-) (figure 5 in the instructions). Their prop is thinner than mine (and likely more accurate). The side view shape is correct. I could have spent more time sanding and sanding and sanding.... With this engine, the prop was attached to the engine solidly, and the WHOLE engine rotates. Amazing to see in real life actually. Very noisy things. Here's a vid:
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from thibaultron in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Moving right along, Mike. So, I used a neutral flat varnish, actually a flat polyurethane for all the wood except the prop and the wing braces where I used a stain/poly blend. CA seems to attach itself nicely to the flat poly without any issues. I do recall having to file away some of the finish for one part, but that was about it. When using CA, I was using a gel type that doesn't flow well.
~j
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jablackwell got a reaction from Canute in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Moving right along, Mike. So, I used a neutral flat varnish, actually a flat polyurethane for all the wood except the prop and the wing braces where I used a stain/poly blend. CA seems to attach itself nicely to the flat poly without any issues. I do recall having to file away some of the finish for one part, but that was about it. When using CA, I was using a gel type that doesn't flow well.
~j
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jablackwell reacted to fnkershner in US Brig Syren by jablackwell - Model Shipways - first POB build
Like you I am wary of the damage that can be done with a sharp knife both to me and the model. I found a Sander did a great job. I just had to be careful not to take too much. Great start!
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jablackwell got a reaction from Overworked724 in US Brig Syren by jablackwell - Model Shipways - first POB build
Making slow and steady progress here with the Syren. I spent some good time working on the rabbet, a first for me. I ended up becoming frustrated with wielding a sharp knife and took out a small finishing sander. That did the job remarkably well and in little time. The stern knee was then tapered to accept the figure head, and then glued on along with the 3/16" square keel along the bottom. I made sure to clamp the bulkhead former onto a flat workspace while gluing things to it... hopefully to help remove some of the slight warp that it has. I know this will be completely rectified when I get the bulkheads and filler blocks installed. Any little thing to help is good, in my opinion! For the filler blocks, I made a quick trip to Home Depot for a 1x2" strip of pine. I am ready....
I also spent time getting ALL the wood sorted and labeled for easier work in the shop. A Sharpie and blue masking tape made great labels...
;-) Some images below.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from GrantGoodale in US Brig Syren by jablackwell - Model Shipways - first POB build
Making slow and steady progress here with the Syren. I spent some good time working on the rabbet, a first for me. I ended up becoming frustrated with wielding a sharp knife and took out a small finishing sander. That did the job remarkably well and in little time. The stern knee was then tapered to accept the figure head, and then glued on along with the 3/16" square keel along the bottom. I made sure to clamp the bulkhead former onto a flat workspace while gluing things to it... hopefully to help remove some of the slight warp that it has. I know this will be completely rectified when I get the bulkheads and filler blocks installed. Any little thing to help is good, in my opinion! For the filler blocks, I made a quick trip to Home Depot for a 1x2" strip of pine. I am ready....
I also spent time getting ALL the wood sorted and labeled for easier work in the shop. A Sharpie and blue masking tape made great labels...
;-) Some images below.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from Peter Bloemendaal in US Brig Syren by jablackwell - Model Shipways - first POB build
Making slow and steady progress here with the Syren. I spent some good time working on the rabbet, a first for me. I ended up becoming frustrated with wielding a sharp knife and took out a small finishing sander. That did the job remarkably well and in little time. The stern knee was then tapered to accept the figure head, and then glued on along with the 3/16" square keel along the bottom. I made sure to clamp the bulkhead former onto a flat workspace while gluing things to it... hopefully to help remove some of the slight warp that it has. I know this will be completely rectified when I get the bulkheads and filler blocks installed. Any little thing to help is good, in my opinion! For the filler blocks, I made a quick trip to Home Depot for a 1x2" strip of pine. I am ready....
I also spent time getting ALL the wood sorted and labeled for easier work in the shop. A Sharpie and blue masking tape made great labels...
;-) Some images below.
~john
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jablackwell reacted to Mike Dowling in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Well folks, just to show you that I have not been idle, the top wing is at a 'stage' waiting, according to the destructions to be varnished.
This leads to a question John, how did you get all the metal bits that have yet to go on to stick after you had varnished yours ? I know that CA and varnish don't go well together.
After all the help, advice etc and now, because I don't mind showing my efforts warts and all, here is something that could be a propeller. I don't say it is but it looks a bit like one and I think it's the best I can do without starting all over again. One edge is rounded and the other really sharp but it doesn't show very well on the photo. I reckon it might look OK when it goes on ! Maybe!
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jablackwell reacted to cog in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
I'm working, a.o. on a 1:350 Dutch sub, and some PE got loose - a wee bit clumsy handling - I had sprayed the cigar, and could still use CA to attach the "ripped off" part. I use CA from BSI INSTA-CURE (thin) and INSTA-CURE+ (medium/gap filling). So far I can't complain, but for the fact that it is somewhat hard to get here in the Netherlands, I have to get it from the UK
P.s. what I suspect is that paint which hasn't cured, or doesn't bond well to the surface to which it is applied, will cause the glued part to fall off, something likeglueing on a dirty surface ...
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jablackwell reacted to Nirvana in US Brig Syren by jablackwell - Model Shipways - first POB build
John,
as a filler in-between the bulkheads I used balsa.
Easy to cut, and makes a huge difference for straighten the keel up.
No need to use any harder wood.
Maybe pine is cheaper, have no idea. My three blocks of balsa 1x2x12" was some 6 dollars.
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jablackwell got a reaction from fnkershner in US Brig Syren by jablackwell - Model Shipways - first POB build
Making slow and steady progress here with the Syren. I spent some good time working on the rabbet, a first for me. I ended up becoming frustrated with wielding a sharp knife and took out a small finishing sander. That did the job remarkably well and in little time. The stern knee was then tapered to accept the figure head, and then glued on along with the 3/16" square keel along the bottom. I made sure to clamp the bulkhead former onto a flat workspace while gluing things to it... hopefully to help remove some of the slight warp that it has. I know this will be completely rectified when I get the bulkheads and filler blocks installed. Any little thing to help is good, in my opinion! For the filler blocks, I made a quick trip to Home Depot for a 1x2" strip of pine. I am ready....
I also spent time getting ALL the wood sorted and labeled for easier work in the shop. A Sharpie and blue masking tape made great labels...
;-) Some images below.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from cog in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Moving right along, Mike. So, I used a neutral flat varnish, actually a flat polyurethane for all the wood except the prop and the wing braces where I used a stain/poly blend. CA seems to attach itself nicely to the flat poly without any issues. I do recall having to file away some of the finish for one part, but that was about it. When using CA, I was using a gel type that doesn't flow well.
~j
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jablackwell got a reaction from Richvee in US Brig Syren by jablackwell - Model Shipways - first POB build
Making slow and steady progress here with the Syren. I spent some good time working on the rabbet, a first for me. I ended up becoming frustrated with wielding a sharp knife and took out a small finishing sander. That did the job remarkably well and in little time. The stern knee was then tapered to accept the figure head, and then glued on along with the 3/16" square keel along the bottom. I made sure to clamp the bulkhead former onto a flat workspace while gluing things to it... hopefully to help remove some of the slight warp that it has. I know this will be completely rectified when I get the bulkheads and filler blocks installed. Any little thing to help is good, in my opinion! For the filler blocks, I made a quick trip to Home Depot for a 1x2" strip of pine. I am ready....
I also spent time getting ALL the wood sorted and labeled for easier work in the shop. A Sharpie and blue masking tape made great labels...
;-) Some images below.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from alde in US Brig Syren by jablackwell - Model Shipways - first POB build
All,
Back to ships!
With so many excellent builds of the Syren here on the site, I have decided to put my skills to the test and give her a whirl. I'll need all the help I can get, as this will be my first plank on bulkhead build. Looking through the other logs, I can tell there will be more scratch work than I have done to date, too. I am really looking forward to the journey!
All parts have been accounted for. Plucking out the keel board, the very first order of business is to straighten it out. There is a slight curve to it, so I gave it a quick soak in water and have clamped it flat. We'll see how it looks in a couple of days when dry. The curve is slight, so filler blocks would very likely be able to set it right, but I like to make things a little easier on myself. Making those filler blocks is something I am not quite sure that I am looking forward to doing. Well, I can say this: my woodworking skills are going to get a workout! Onward!
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from Overworked724 in US Brig Syren by jablackwell - Model Shipways - first POB build
The adventure DOES start! Had some time to figure out that an empty vodka bottle makes a fine way to soak rabbet strips for a keel ;-) It is now curved around the keel and waiting to dry before I glue it in place. After that, onto the rabbet itself. In the meantime, I am starting to hunt around for filler block material. I was thinking balsa, but not quite decided. Any commentary or advice on this? Perhaps something stronger would be appropriate?
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from scasey88 in US Brig Syren by jablackwell - Model Shipways - first POB build
Making slow and steady progress here with the Syren. I spent some good time working on the rabbet, a first for me. I ended up becoming frustrated with wielding a sharp knife and took out a small finishing sander. That did the job remarkably well and in little time. The stern knee was then tapered to accept the figure head, and then glued on along with the 3/16" square keel along the bottom. I made sure to clamp the bulkhead former onto a flat workspace while gluing things to it... hopefully to help remove some of the slight warp that it has. I know this will be completely rectified when I get the bulkheads and filler blocks installed. Any little thing to help is good, in my opinion! For the filler blocks, I made a quick trip to Home Depot for a 1x2" strip of pine. I am ready....
I also spent time getting ALL the wood sorted and labeled for easier work in the shop. A Sharpie and blue masking tape made great labels...
;-) Some images below.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from Nirvana in US Brig Syren by jablackwell - Model Shipways - first POB build
Making slow and steady progress here with the Syren. I spent some good time working on the rabbet, a first for me. I ended up becoming frustrated with wielding a sharp knife and took out a small finishing sander. That did the job remarkably well and in little time. The stern knee was then tapered to accept the figure head, and then glued on along with the 3/16" square keel along the bottom. I made sure to clamp the bulkhead former onto a flat workspace while gluing things to it... hopefully to help remove some of the slight warp that it has. I know this will be completely rectified when I get the bulkheads and filler blocks installed. Any little thing to help is good, in my opinion! For the filler blocks, I made a quick trip to Home Depot for a 1x2" strip of pine. I am ready....
I also spent time getting ALL the wood sorted and labeled for easier work in the shop. A Sharpie and blue masking tape made great labels...
;-) Some images below.
~john
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jablackwell got a reaction from Mike Dowling in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Moving right along, Mike. So, I used a neutral flat varnish, actually a flat polyurethane for all the wood except the prop and the wing braces where I used a stain/poly blend. CA seems to attach itself nicely to the flat poly without any issues. I do recall having to file away some of the finish for one part, but that was about it. When using CA, I was using a gel type that doesn't flow well.
~j
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jablackwell got a reaction from thibaultron in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Hi Mike - I did a lot of sanding, that is really all. I started with a Dremel and got more cautious and moved to rough then fine paper. The rounded leading edge of the prop is upper most when the prop is laid onto a tabletop. SO.... just a lot of thinning out of the blade.
~j
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jablackwell got a reaction from thibaultron in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Yep - I have a hard time seeing which way you carved on your prop. What Carl said is absolutely correct. So.... if you did go backwards with the angle, you can always try again.
~j
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jablackwell got a reaction from Elijah in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
Mike, The good folks at Model Airways will send you a new set of prop parts for you if you want.
~j
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jablackwell got a reaction from thibaultron in Sopwith Camel by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - Model Airways - 1/16
The blade starts thickest at the hub and becomes smoothly thinner to the end of the tips. The blade can't be concave on both sides.... only one side and this is the back side, the side closest to the engine. It is very slight.
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