AON
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AON got a reaction from cristikc in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
I will be getting back to my slow progressing scratch build of HMS Bellerophon with a goal to complete all the frames before next summer... but after a summer of home renovations, grass cutting, fishing, and a little carving, I found myself being drawn to something a couple members of our local club (Model Shipwrights of Niagara) brought to one of our monthly meetings earlier in the year (before the summer).
This project was started on 24 October 2018.
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AON got a reaction from cristikc in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
The third pieces to make were the HIND and FORE TRUCKS (or wheels). These were also made of maple dowels of diameters just larger than required and sanded down on the lathe. I sanded down a length adequate for two trucks, then scored the proper widths leaving a 1/4" gap between each truck. I drilled the axle hole through on the drill press, and lastly cut between the 1/4" gap with my band saw. The individual trucks were then sanded to the score marks.
I chose to make my TRUCKS in one piece as I understand the bolted two layer/four piece sandwiched Truck with grains running at 90° was a feature that followed at a later time. I did not use metal trucks as they were never used on the wooden decks of ships since they would cause too much damage to the deck.
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AON got a reaction from popash42 in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
No progress on my build. The windowless playroom in the basement lost out to the call of the sun outside... but now summer is over, laying about is done, too cold and wet for fishing for these bones, and the grass seems to have stopped growing. Two bathroom renovations are done and the flooring of two other rooms is done and over. Time to get back at her. My goal this season is to get all the frames done and expect to start in the next couple weeks after yet one more diversion project is completed.
I had got some progress on my first crack at carving the oversized X3 (too large for the model) figurehead. I had been working on it while sitting outside on the patio under the shade of the pergola and willow in late August. Took it to our September club meeting. Below are some pics. Still a considerable amount of work left to go on this... for later when I get bored.
There is a small diversionary project on the go and I expect it will take another week or so before I finally get onto the Billy Ruffian once more.
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AON reacted to dvm27 in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
Yes you are technically correct, Alan. What I have used are simulated bungs. I'm not sure I've seen a model deck correctly spiked, countersunk then bored to receive a bung. That level of detail would be quite remarkable. The point is that the trunnels I use are @ 1.75" in diameter, roughly the same diameter as a bung. So the end result looks the same except the bungs are end grain. To quote David Antscherl in The Fireship Comet "I did not treenail the deck, as in the original ships the plugs that covered nails and other fasteners were virtually invisible, as they were side-grained rather than end-grained." Bottom line is that they should be barely visible at 1:48 scale.
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AON got a reaction from paulsutcliffe in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
Well, I don't know you very well Druxy, but you seem very informative. I've noticed you've helped quite a few people on the forum (besides me).
On the other hand I know David Antscherl is a master at modelling and very knowledgeable (because he does the research) and I'd trust him in a heart beat... but he'd want me to research on my own first, so I have done just that before I see him this coming weekend.
Thank you again... BTW - I just explained to my wife how I wasted some money. YIKES
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AON got a reaction from Canute in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
Well, I don't know you very well Druxy, but you seem very informative. I've noticed you've helped quite a few people on the forum (besides me).
On the other hand I know David Antscherl is a master at modelling and very knowledgeable (because he does the research) and I'd trust him in a heart beat... but he'd want me to research on my own first, so I have done just that before I see him this coming weekend.
Thank you again... BTW - I just explained to my wife how I wasted some money. YIKES
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AON got a reaction from SJSoane in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
and now this...
https://books.google.ca/books?id=7qwfBestmOEC&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=bolting+and+plugging+wooden+ship+deck+planks&source=bl&ots=ByXVbG9X2M&sig=EtcUEYK6IUb3MPaKNfqzrWa5vdQ&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi-1Jr4m8reAhUETd8KHYoCBngQ6AEwFHoECAoQAQ#v=onepage&q=bolting and plugging wooden ship deck planks&f=false
Funny how I couldn't find anything before.
So it is officially bolted with wooden plugs overtop.
Thank you Druxey for mentioning this.
This I will never ever forget.
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AON got a reaction from paulsutcliffe in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
and just found this in the forum with a slight change in my search criteria ( https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/14473-treenalingwish-i-hadnt-done-this/&tab=comments#comment-449644 )
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AON got a reaction from paulsutcliffe in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
I've spent some time trying to find information of deck fastening.
In the Model Shipwright Magazine, issue 63 (dated March 1988) on page 53 is Part 9 of a good series of articles by David White entitled Traditional Wooden Shipbuilding. I think I will be allowed to post a screen shot snip of one paragraph (see below).
It substantiates in part what Druxey had stated earlier. David White does not mention plugs but plugs make sense.
I will continue to search.
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AON got a reaction from mtaylor in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
I could but it will likely look like heck.
They have a special sheer for metal nameplates to assure the edges are crisp and flat.
I could ask them to cut it for me.... but it was not the look I agonized over for a couple weeks.
I'll have to sleep on this, but thank you for the suggestion.
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AON got a reaction from Canute in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
I've spent some time trying to find information of deck fastening.
In the Model Shipwright Magazine, issue 63 (dated March 1988) on page 53 is Part 9 of a good series of articles by David White entitled Traditional Wooden Shipbuilding. I think I will be allowed to post a screen shot snip of one paragraph (see below).
It substantiates in part what Druxey had stated earlier. David White does not mention plugs but plugs make sense.
I will continue to search.
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AON got a reaction from Canute in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
and just found this in the forum with a slight change in my search criteria ( https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/14473-treenalingwish-i-hadnt-done-this/&tab=comments#comment-449644 )
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AON got a reaction from paulsutcliffe in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
and now this...
https://books.google.ca/books?id=7qwfBestmOEC&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=bolting+and+plugging+wooden+ship+deck+planks&source=bl&ots=ByXVbG9X2M&sig=EtcUEYK6IUb3MPaKNfqzrWa5vdQ&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi-1Jr4m8reAhUETd8KHYoCBngQ6AEwFHoECAoQAQ#v=onepage&q=bolting and plugging wooden ship deck planks&f=false
Funny how I couldn't find anything before.
So it is officially bolted with wooden plugs overtop.
Thank you Druxey for mentioning this.
This I will never ever forget.
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AON reacted to Geoff Matson in How to sharpen a file.
I was a horseshoer for 40 years. I used files and rasps to work on horses feet. I would use it first to trim and level the hoof. When the file or rasp got tired of that job I would use it finish the horse's foot. Doing this job was half going over the hoof wall and half going over the nails and edge of the shoe. Kind of half hoof and half metal. When the rasp or file got tired of that job I used it on metal when making horseshoes. When it got tired of that job I used the old rasp or file to make things out of like knives. I got a lot of use out of one file that way. For modeling I would use the file first for wood. Then went it got tired of that I would use it on metal. After that you are pretty much done with it. Remember a new sharp file will do the job right. Once it is dull all you are doing if buffing the wood. Hope this helps.
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AON got a reaction from Canute in Push hammer?
I have such a thing. Spring loaded barrel, fits in your palm...push with your palm.
It bought it years ago to insert finish nails into things like picture frames or paneling onto walls.
You have to be very careful with the amount of pressure.
Never thought to try it on pins for a model. Now I have to find it again.
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AON got a reaction from Canute in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
and now this...
https://books.google.ca/books?id=7qwfBestmOEC&pg=PA73&lpg=PA73&dq=bolting+and+plugging+wooden+ship+deck+planks&source=bl&ots=ByXVbG9X2M&sig=EtcUEYK6IUb3MPaKNfqzrWa5vdQ&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi-1Jr4m8reAhUETd8KHYoCBngQ6AEwFHoECAoQAQ#v=onepage&q=bolting and plugging wooden ship deck planks&f=false
Funny how I couldn't find anything before.
So it is officially bolted with wooden plugs overtop.
Thank you Druxey for mentioning this.
This I will never ever forget.
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AON got a reaction from archjofo in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
Next is staining the sub-base, blackening the copper and brass, getting one or possible both plates engraved again, assembling everything ... except the cannon itself. Should have all (but the cannon) done next week.
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AON got a reaction from aviaamator in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
Had to go get my mitre saw from my son (he used it to build his garage) and cut the 45° mitres. Dry fitted them under the mounting board and case and made adjustments to get the "shelf" closer to the outer edge of the case. Then I sanded it down to the mark. Double checked and finally glued and clamped the pieces together.
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AON got a reaction from archjofo in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
Worked on the sub-base frame. Practised routering on a piece of scrap to determine which profile was best out of three I had picked out. Decided on a 5/32" Roman Ogee profile. Took my length of 34" x 1-1/2" Poplar and with a 4 foot piece to ride on in behind it so the router didn't rock I cut the profile.
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AON got a reaction from archjofo in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
Sanded to two skewed short ends of the plywood mounting plate square and ironed on the maple edge trim. Using a #34 drill and my Dremel I carefully drilled a shallow pocket into the short end through the clear acrylic case. After removing the case I drilled the hole deeper for the pin.
The pin was fitted to the hole and got stuck! As I pulled to remove it the ornamental cap popped off to reveal a perfect coned end. I decided this was the end I wanted exposed and the cap should go on the other end. It would not hold. I needed to press grooves (knurl like) onto the end to expand the diameter so it would grip and then tapped it on with my soft rubber mallet.
Cleaned out the hole a bit and it is now a nice snug fit.
Went to take the cap off the end of the other pin and found they used more glue on that one. Buggered the pin in my attempt to disassemble it. Thank goodness they sell hinges in pairs. I was able to get one of that pair apart and now have two good pins.
The case fits well and the pins hold it all together!
Tomorrow I hope to router some pieces for the sub-base and assemble it.
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AON got a reaction from archjofo in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
Picked up the nameplates today from our local trophy shop. Should have had them yesterday but they spelt NAVAL incorrectly (NAVEL). I could only laugh. They knocked $10 off the price so try as I might I couldn't find another mistake.
I decided to go with laser engraved aluminium. It is clean, scratch resistant, professional looking and easy to read.
I also decided to only mount the one on the deck as it looked to "busy" or cluttered. The other will be on a sliding pull out information tray or board just below the mounting plate and glass... yet one more thing learned at our last club meeting.
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AON got a reaction from archjofo in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
All metal pieces are made and need to be blackened.
The clear acrylic display case cover and my mounting plate were picked up today. The case looks wonderful but the fit is questionable. The case fits very well to the long sides but is too sloppy (too large a gap) on the short sides. This is likely my fault for not sanding the ends perfectly square to start with. The clearance measures 0.108" (2.7mm) whereas on the long sides it is 0.0005" (0.01mm). My solution is to sand both short ends square (as these are slightly out of square) and apply a 1/32" (0.8mm) maple wood veneer over the end to decrease the gap and snug up the fit with the acrylic cover. I should probably do the long sides also so the cut edges look finished.
Went out and bought a $4 pair of door hinges. Cut one in half and took the pin halves out. I will use these as the locking pins for the acrylic cover. This pin will keep the cover from popping off if the display case is picked up by the cover. Thank goodness I went to last months club meeting to learn this pinning trick.
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AON got a reaction from Rainbow in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
The CAPSQUARE JOINT BOLT was made out of plate, cut and filed to fit the slot in the Capsquare, and a hole drilled through to accommodate the Locking Key. The chain was purchased from Michael's, a local craft store in St. Catharines, Ontario (a 20 minute drive). It is from an 18" long black jewellery necklace collar. The Locking Key was made twice. I didn't like the first attempt and so, after sleeping on it, I made a more proper Locking Key. My copper plate material was too thin so I folded it over to get double the thickness, filed it to shape and drilled the hole to which the chain will attach.
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AON got a reaction from yvesvidal in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
The next item to make was the CAPSQUARE using yet another flattened out copper tube material and new paper templates. The plates required a number of attempts at bending. The slot at the hinged end was cut with my Dremel tool and cutoff disk, then opened with a drill bit to fit the CAPSQUARE EYEBOLT (a simple piece of wire with a bent U at one end to make a staple). The hinge pin was then roll/clamped in place. My second and third Capsquare turned into scrap and so there was a fourth before it was done.
Finally the Capsquare Joint Bolt slots were drilled and filed.
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AON got a reaction from cristikc in 9 Pound Naval Cannon 1786 by AON - FINISHED - 1:12 scale
The FORE AXLETREE STAY was made of copper plate. The actual plate measures about 3/8" (9.5mm) thick or 0.04" (1mm) to scale. After hunting around my workshop I found some copper water tube that had a wall thickness of 0.032"... close enough! I needed to slice it open with a hacksaw, and flatten it out with a hammer on the anvil to make the plate. I started by making a paper template to fit on the model to determine the lengths required. Then cut it to size with a cut off disc on my Dremel tool, filed off the burrs, bent and drilled holes in the Stays.
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