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HMS Victory Bow Section by kmart - Panart - 1:72 Scale

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So my first build log. 

This model was actually a present to my father.  He started the model and got as far as completing the frames and orlop deck.   But he passes away a few year ago.  I recently found his started model.  So I will complete it for him.   I've been following JeffE build of the same model and will "borrow" some of his ideas. As his build is turning out beautiful.  As I model on and off as time and life permits.  I'm  counting on the knowledge and  encouragement of this group to keep me progressing :-)


So away we go.


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As you can see in my pics.. I put yellow tape where the water line and the wales go.   It took me hours and hours to line them up to where I think they are right.

I think they are accurate.    After second planking is done... I'll get to figure them out  again.    And they need to be correct relative to the gun ports.     Any tricks you guys use for getting the run of the wales right.  And for positioning the gun ports correctly. 


The way I did it....

Taking measurements from the plans, and using the equivalent of a waterline marker...I measured straight up vertically from the bottom of the keel.  (Not following curvature of the hull.  just straight up vertically)  and marked the position of top and bottom of the wales.    By eye,,, they seemed to come out right.  


Any better suggestions on how to do this?

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  • 3 weeks later...

One plank, two plank, three plank, four........ slowly getting there on the second layer. I'm down to 10 planks left on each side. Last few are getting tough as they need to bend/curve more severely upwards towards the bow. No stealers. Yet...

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Made some progress. Put the wales on. Then the first part of the headrails. 4 pieces of wood took 2 weeks if you include the planning and thinking about how to do it and building jigs, failled,broken pieces etc..the headrails néeded to bend all

in all 3 dimensions and they need to match. I am very happy with how it turned out.





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  • 2 months later...

What is everyone's opinion on the shade of yellow? I tried half a dozen shades of yellow. Picked the one I thought closest. Test strip looked good. Once I applied to entire hull....seems too lemony. Too late to change. I'm starting to grow on it. What do you think? Honest opinion please! :-)

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Great little build you have going there. love the cutting out of the gun ports :)

The shade of yellow looks fine to me, take into account that the actual shade of yellow has changed considerably over the years and now it's bordering on a Brown /Tan colour. Personally i prefer the shade you have used :)

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  • 8 months later...

So I was on hiatus from model building for awhile.  But I'm back at it now.   Made some progress...

Work on the head rails and the gratings at the bow.    Not really happy with the gratings....

That was my third and best attempt at them.  The edges keep breaking off when cutting the curves. Ugg. Good enough as I wanted to move onto the next section.... Coppering the bottom.


But I think the head rails came out pretty good





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Part #2.   Onto the Copper.  This is my first time ever coppering a hull.  I used the copper tape as apposed to the individual plates that came with the kit.

Got a pounce wheel to make all the rivets. Scored the tape with the back side of a #11 blade to show individual plates.

If you look close, you can see wrinkles in the foil.    It's more pronounced under the harsh light and on camera... but from normal viewing distance under normal light ...it actually came out quite good for my first time.  (At least I think it did).

Makes up for the gratings.     


This was practice for my next build "MS  Connie"  That I'm itching to start :-)











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Part #3  ;  Just had to see what she will look like with some teeth.


Also a Question.    Think I want to keep the copper color and not turn the patina  / green.

What do people tend to coat the copper with to protect it and stop the oxidation.

Also  flat/dull or shiny.   I know ....personal preference... just curious to what other think.





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  • 2 months later...

So my last post I just finished the coppering the hull.  Next up was gun port lids.  (20 in all)   For this, the actual lids were not too bad to mass produce.   But I had some trial and error to figure out some respectable gun port hinges.   You can see my options in the 3rd picture.    The ones that came with the kit we way out of scale (top row middle).    I then tried using some plastic strip material from the hobby store... but that look just plain ugly ( Top row left).   Next I tried  some hinges I had left over from a prior model  copper (Top row right).  Those looked great.   The problem was... I need 20 pairs for my model.  And I only had.... (Wait for it....)  16 pairs of hinges.    I could not find a source for the needed 4 more  pairs...  Ugg..


So then it hit me.   I liked the copper ones. and I had lots of left over copper foil tape  from the hull. 

I cut thin strips the width of the hinges.   Used my pounce wheel to put one row of rivets in each,   Fastened the taped in place.    Then panted over in black.     The look is subtle,  and doesn't show very well in the picture.   but on the model, you can see the hinges,  and they look to scale (not too thick).  You can make out the rivets if you look close.   And the copper color just peaks through the black paint.   I'm happy how they came out.  Fourth picture is all the lids ready to install.


Also in the fourth you can see my jig.    This was used for three parts.  To mount the lids.. I drilled two holes in the edge of the lid inline with the top of the "foil" hinges"  I used the jig to align the holes consistently.  Then I put in some brass pins in the holes.    Then using the same jig... part of it fits snug in the gun port wit the corresponding matching hole position to drill  for the the lid,   Then the last part of the jig positions two more holes properly spaced above the holes for the lids... for the lines that lift the lids up.    Hopefully that explanation makes sense. 


Anyways.  That completes making and preping to install the the gunports lids.






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OK.. Fast forward a few steps.

Stained and then penciled bands on all the barrels.

Guns assembled and painted.   Figuring out how much and How I'm actually going to rig them.

Initially I wanted to have most of the rigging on the cannon,  But with the way I assembled the model, I just couldn't figure out how to given the limited access (especially the lower gun decks)  and my big fat fingers.  So I cheated.  I just put one thick line from the bulkworks ran through a eye on side of carriage, knotted around the  back of cannon and then repeated around other side..


The lower and middle gun decks are fitted out.  Guns installed,  Gun port Lids installed.

My version of the stove came out ok.


Working on the Third Gun deck.    You can see those guns being installed along with the barrels and such.


From the sides she is starting to look like a real ship of the line with all her teeth  :-)

And looking in..  She looks like a working ship.


Next onto the final, top deck.









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Some more updates. Top deck added, planked. Gratings assembled but not glued.


I didn't like the pin rails that came with kit. I'm going to leave them natural / vanished. Not black. So the kit supplied plywood won't do. Remade new ones in walnut.


Also made progress on the rails and cat heads

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Some more updates. Top deck added, planked. Gratings assembled but not glued.


I didn't like the pin rails that came with kit. I'm going to leave them natural / vanished. Not black. So the kit supplied plywood won't do. Remade new ones in walnut.


Also made progress on the rails and cat heads





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  • 2 weeks later...

And I have started work on the fore mast.

The fighting top is together.


Now the kit/instructions as provided only has the fore mast and then a stub for the fore topmast.  and then the bowsprit and a stub for the jib boom.   


I don't like the look of her with stubs...she looks .. only half dressed to me.  So I plan to build out the entire foremast, fore Top mast and Fore top gallant. As well as the bowsprit ,  jib boom and flying jib boom.    And of course  all the associated yards and Stunsail yards.


As the kit doesn't provide this info or plans ... I have been referring to my copy of  James Lees "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War"  As it turns out   page 198 table 8 has all the actual spar dimensions for Vic.   I plugged all the numbers into  excel spreadsheet and converted from the listed actual feet to mm and then scaled down to 1/78

I used those sizes to rough cut all the spars and yards to the right sizes as you can see in my pics.


One observation is that the Bowsprit, jib boom and flying jib boom once assembled are huge!  I got that sense from photos of the real ship... but seeing it on the model is surprising.  This went from a small model to a large one in terms of shelf space the finished model will take.  


Next is that (to Me) the Top gallant looks way to short and out of proportion to the rest of the foremast.   From all the pictures I've looked at of the real ship.. It looks like the top gallant should be twice as long as it is on my model.


Per Lee   the top mast is 62' 10"  and the Top gallant is 31'.  So the top gallant is half the length of the topmast.

So my measurements are right per the book.    But it still looks way to short to my eye compared to pictures.

Anyone's thoughts?  Other Vic builders does the sizing seem comparable to your builds.  it gallon is 1/2 the length of topsail ?












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Sorry some of the pics didn't show to well.   This one shows the proportions of the masts the best ..  

You cas see the top gallon sorta looks like its a stub/ not tall enough ..but its 1/78th of 31'  ~= 121 mm

I couldn't figure out how to rotate it 90 deg



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  • 4 weeks later...

Time for next update.   Making progress... Very close to finishing the this phase of the build.

The Ship proper is just about done.  Some smaller things to finish up like rigging the main deck canon and a lot of paint touch-up.  

the deck 3 plank shift came out well.  Caulking simulated by using the dark brown Elmer wood glue when putting down the planks.

Canon balls are a bit oversize.. but they were the smallest ones I had in my stash





Cleats?  to hold the lashings on the Jib Boom




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